LUYED LED- New (Frugal) LED Reverse Light.

[bchboy1206]

Dang I wish there was a video! I am scared that I will ruin something!!!

 

[Jako]

Dang I wish there was a video! I am scared that I will ruin something!!!

Plenty of info in the compilation. Plenty of Ram owners have added additional reverse lights. Plenty of options, review the posts and ask questions. 5th Gen Forum is very friendly.

Reverse Lights POSTS COMPILATION

https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/license-plate-reverse-light.4787/page-17#post-238534 https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/reverse-light-mod.13871/ https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/another-reverse-led-idea.14148/...

5thgenrams.com

 

[JDRam]

When using the quick splice connectors to tap into the 7-pin harness, do you strip the Black/White wires coming out of the 7-pin harness or just insert them directly into the open side of the connector?

And, do you strip the Black/Red Wires coming out of the LUYED light, or do you insert them directly into the quick splice connector dead end?

I've never done any type of wiring before, and am scared I will ruin the electrical system...I've watched videos on "how to use quick connectors" and they never strip the wires, they state that the metal on the connector will penetrate the cover on the wiring, thus there is no need to strip the wire. Is this correct?

 

[doradosteve]

LUYED Reverse Light


- Use T connector for 7 pin White Wire (ground) and black wire: 7 pin 7 oclock position

-Use T connector for 7 pin black wire (power reverse) and red wire : 7 pin center positon

I followed this wiring. Worked perfect- thank you!

 

[SilverNight2020]

Anyone have a link to an actual step-by-step process for installing these? I want to do one on each side of the tow hitch, but man I'm scared of jacking this up. I understand the OP's way of T-tapping, but the part about using the curt harness is messing with my brain. I can look at the pictures some are posting, but cannot wrap my head around how the Curt adapter works with the 7 pin on our trucks. I want the most secure connection, but also the one that is easiest to remove for when I turn this truck back in. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and please forgive my ignorance.

 

[Jako]

Anyone have a link to an actual step-by-step process for installing these? I want to do one on each side of the tow hitch, but man I'm scared of jacking this up. I understand the OP's way of T-tapping, but the part about using the curt harness is messing with my brain. I can look at the pictures some are posting, but cannot wrap my head around how the Curt adapter works with the 7 pin on our trucks. I want the most secure connection, but also the one that is easiest to remove for when I turn this truck back in. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and please forgive my ignorance.

To utilize the Curt adapters the trailer plug on the bumper must be disconnected from the truck's wire harness, this is done from the frame side of the bumper. The Curt adapter is then plugged between bumper plug and the truck's wire harness. If you use the Curt 56584 you can cut the 5 pin flat plug off and connect to the appropriate wires or buy another adapter that plugs into the 5 pin flat and connect to those wires.

Post #27 shows the curt harness along with a hopkin's trailer connection.

OEM LED reverse lights are absolutely terrible...what have you guys done to address this?

Finished, these are the Rigid Ignite diffused. Made a big difference! Really would like to see how you mount those on bumper in daylight. Thanks.

5thgenrams.com

Curt also makes the 56070 which will give you all 7 wires and in this case you would cut the 7 pin plug off as the adapter's wires are very long. The advantage to the 56070 is it will give you accessory power also. In my case I used this wire to power up LED lights under my bed rails.

Below is the link's to the two harnesses which may give you a better idea.

Replacement OE 5-Way Flat Socket (T's into USCAR)

Stress is the last thing you should feel when towing a trailer -- whether you're hauling your RV to that favorite camping destination, your ATVs up to the hunting grounds or your fishing boat to the new hidden hotspot. At CURT, we think your towing equipment should add to the enjoyment of your...

www.curtmfg.com

7' Custom Wiring Extension Harness (Adds 7-Way RV Blade to Truck Bed, Packaged)

There is nothing like the luxury and power that go along with heavy-duty towing. 5th wheel RVs offer a deluxe, home-away-from-home experience unlike any other, while gooseneck trailers possess a strength that far surpasses most other trailer options. As with any trailer, however, 5th wheels and...

www.curtmfg.com

Post 62 has the link to the "Reverse Light Compilation".

 

[SilverNight2020]

I don't know how much adjustment you can do with those lights for the bed. Below is a post on the Kafeek which you can adjust and tuck out of the way of cargo.
They can be purchased on Amazon for $14.99 (sold individually)

https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/kafeek-led-auxiliary-reverse-lights.16672/

My intentions are to wire up Kafeeks in the bed with the auxiliary reverse lights with a double pole double throw switch (DPDT) so the area behind the truck is lighted along with the bed. The DPDT will switch the power from the reverse wire to the auxiliary wire on the 5 pin flat curt. Parts and wiring diagram have been worked out, just need a "spark" to get myself motivated. Part of my "tomorrow to someday to bucket list" list.

Thank you for all the info. If I were to use the T-tap method like the OP, should I be concerned about the small splice in the trailer harness wires if I were to remove these lights? Or would that be inconsequential if I were to put electrical tape over each wire, and then re-tape and loom the original wiring harness? I am leasing the truck. That would be the only reason I would for-see ever removing these once they are installed.

 

[Jako]

Thank you for all the info. If I were to use the T-tap method like the OP, should I be concerned about the small splice in the trailer harness wires if I were to remove these lights? Or would that be inconsequential if I were to put electrical tape over each wire, and then re-tape and loom the original wiring harness? I am leasing the truck. That would be the only reason I would for-see ever removing these once they are installed.

You could also use liquid electrical tape such as below.

Gardner Bender Black Liquid Electrical Tape 4 oz. LTB-400 - The Home Depot

When wires become entangled they are safety hazards, for both the equipment and the owner. Gardner Bender offers a variety of products for protection and neatness. As the needs of professional electricians

www.homedepot.com

 

[SilverNight2020]

I received these over the weekend, and finally got a chance to install them this morning. I am not very handy with electrical stuff and I chose to do a direct connection to the trailer wires with T-taps. The Curt connection option sounded great, but even after asking questions and getting more explanation, I did not feel confident I would be able to do it. So, I started using the T-tap connectors and found after doing my first operations check that I squeezed the connector so tightly, I was actually cutting the wire. This is where my oh crap moments began.

After opening the T-taps back up when one of my lights failed to work, I found that the trailer plug wires had been spliced too much and began cursing myself for hacking on this new truck. After gathering myself, I decided the best thing to do would be to cut the trailer wires and use butt connectors to create new connections with the wires from the Luyed lights intertwined. Fortunately doing this provided a better connection than I think I could have ever gotten with T-taps. As you all know, the before and after difference is night and day. Thank you to all the trailblazers who have done this and provided install details, as it proved invaluable to me this morning. I mounted them with the attached screws to the plastic pieces the reverse sensors are mounted in, and turned them outward as much as possible.

 

[gHiDoRa]

I received these over the weekend, and finally got a chance to install them this morning. I am not very handy with electrical stuff and I chose to do a direct connection to the trailer wires with T-taps. The Curt connection option sounded great, but even after asking questions and getting more explanation, I did not feel confident I would be able to do it. So, I started using the T-tap connectors and found after doing my first operations check that I squeezed the connector so tightly, I was actually cutting the wire. This is where my oh crap moments began.

After opening the T-taps back up when one of my lights failed to work, I found that the trailer plug wires had been spliced too much and began cursing myself for hacking on this new truck. After gathering myself, I decided the best thing to do would be to cut the trailer wires and use butt connectors to create new connections with the wires from the Luyed lights intertwined. Fortunately doing this provided a better connection than I think I could have ever gotten with T-taps. As you all know, the before and after difference is night and day. Thank you to all the trailblazers who have done this and provided install details, as it proved invaluable to me this morning. I mounted them with the attached screws to the plastic pieces the reverse sensors are mounted in, and turned them outward as much as possible. View attachment 72296 View attachment 72297 View attachment 72298 View attachment 72299

Good job on your project, for me i never used T-tap on cable, always take my time and solder all the cables.

FYI, try to place your reverse light aways from all those sensors, if the reverse light cable didn't shield good, it will interfere with sensor.

 

[HydroRebel]

Good job on your project, for me i never used T-tap on cable, always take my time and solder all the cables.

FYI, try to place your reverse light aways from all those sensors, if the reverse light cable didn't shield good, it will interfere with sensor.

Totally agree with this post. I would never use a t-tap and soldering/heatshrink is always the best method of splicing wires. For those who don't know how to solder (or have access to one) you can also use small marettes and fill them with silicon or wrap them with self fusing tape and you will be fine.

 

[Nachizl8]

Finally got a chance to install two of these on the hitch using the Curt connecter set, awesome stuff! Thankful for all the useful info on this thread

 

[RookieDDZ]

So I just received a dual setup for the sides of the hitch today. These lights seem really well built, better than I thought.
Before I get to the install, how is the double sided tape holding up? Should I get a zip tie or two, or do you think the tape will hold well?

 

[gHiDoRa]

So I just received a dual setup for the sides of the hitch today. These lights seem really well built, better than I thought.
Before I get to the install, how is the double sided tape holding up? Should I get a zip tie or two, or do you think the tape will hold well?

i installed using only the double size tape for couple months now and they're still holding, if they ever come off later on i will use extreme strong double size tape.

 

[dts828]

Totally agree with this post. I would never use a t-tap and soldering/heatshrink is always the best method of splicing wires. For those who don't know how to solder (or have access to one) you can also use small marettes and fill them with silicon or wrap them with self fusing tape and you will be fine.

Soldering is always the best but T-TAPS have a place especially when you don't want to cut a wire. I don't recommend them outside but the most common mistake with t-taps is people use the wrong size for the gauge wire there using which results in either making a loose connection or damaging strands because undersized tap resulting in loose connection.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

[RookieDDZ]

Well, I had some time to get these done and I could not be happier. I installed two lights on the side of the receiver like others have. I used the Curt 56584 and cut off the 5-pin end. No need to save it as this was only for the two lights. Soldered everything up and there was light!
Thank you guys who started this and to the forum for joining us all. Always a ton of things to do.

 

[philodog]

Do you know what gauge the trucks 7 pin wires are?

 

[grimreefer]

Another useful thread. Finally did this today. Used the Curt 56584 harness, the Curt 58540 five pin and the LUYED Super Bright 3020's. Also tie wrapped the lights along with the adhesive tape even though the tape seems more than capable. Marine connectors and heat shrink on everything cut. Even sealed the resonator weep holes while I was under there.



Edited for night shots:

 

[Neurobit]

Another useful thread. Finally did this today. Used the Curt 56584 harness, the Curt 58540 five pin and the LUYED Super Bright 3020's. Also tie wrapped the lights along with the adhesive tape even though the tape seems more than capable. Marine connectors and heat shrink on everything. Even sealed the resonator weep holes while I was under there.

View attachment 77210 View attachment 77211 View attachment 77212

Edited for night shots:

View attachment 77234 View attachment 77235

Nice. I love mine.

 

[Sushiyummy]

Soldering is always the best but T-TAPS have a place especially when you don't want to cut a wire. I don't recommend them outside but the most common mistake with t-taps is people use the wrong size for the gauge wire there using which results in either making a loose connection or damaging strands because undersized tap resulting in loose connection.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

What T_TAPS size do you use? 16-14?