Hardwire radar detector to rear view mirror?

Neurobit

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SecurityGuy - Are you say this wiring cause problems with the already car installed “Parking Assist” (parallel or normal parking) performed by the vehicle automatically or a problem when adding additional after market dash cams? I don’t plan to add any after market dash cam’s, so just confirming it doesn’t cause problems with the Park Assist Mode. Please confirm either way. Thx!
If you’re not adding a dash cam, you’re fine, since this will power on & off with the truck.

Cheers,
 

securityguy

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It has no issues with the park assist mode. Dash cams have a feature called "parking mode" where they will continue recording after the car is shut off to monitor incidents while parked. I am not a fan of mirror taps for any device period but they are an easier DIY solution for those that don't want to mess with a fuse panel.
 

Jako

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Dash Cams using park mode need constant power. My Garmin 65W requires an optional 3 wire cord (constant power, on/off with car power and ground) to use the park mode. I believe the cord is equipped so it monitors the battery voltage and will turn off the dash cam if the voltage goes below a certain point. I have not wired the dash cam to the mirror but assume if it is wired it will record while the vehicle is powered and you will not have park mode unless the optional cord is purchased and powered appropriately, park sense will not be an issue.

www8.garmin.com/manuals/webhelp/dashcam45-55/EN-US/GUID-53F06810-9AE9-4212-B419-5153DD3B3F3B.html
www8.garmin.com/manuals/webhelp/dashcam45-55/EN-US/GUID-4893EF84-E82C-4A21-8FFD-ED26F0AC0AD6.html
 
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securityguy

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All dash cams with Parking Mode require GROUND, SWITCHED 12V and CONSTANT 12V. Either an external device or power supply has circuitry that monitors battery voltage, and when it drops to 12.0V (and some are adjustable as my Power Magic Pro), the cam will shut off. HIGHLY recommend for any purchasing a dash cam...DO NOT wire it using mirror taps!
 

Walkedu

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Thought I might share how I did my install, I wasnt too keen on running 20” of mirror tap from the bottom of the hunk of crap giant mirror cover these trucks come with like some were doing in this thread.. If im trying to hide the cord I am going to hide it. Drilled a 1/2” hole in the ridiculous cover and put a grommet on it and ran a 12” cord from the mirror. I will say I used the same connector with the 3 wires everybody else was recommending and the wire tap prongs were a tight fit. Did a mirror tap on my C7, my old Gen 2 Raptor, my CTS V and my Super Duty and none of them were this big of a pitta.....

30872308733087430875308763087730878
 

securityguy

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Thought I might share how I did my install, I wasnt too keen on running 20” of mirror tap from the bottom of the hunk of crap giant mirror cover these trucks come with like some were doing in this thread.. If im trying to hide the cord I am going to hide it. Drilled a 1/2” hole in the ridiculous cover and put a grommet on it and ran a 12” cord from the mirror. I will say I used the same connector with the 3 wires everybody else was recommending and the wire tap prongs were a tight fit. Did a mirror tap on my C7, my old Gen 2 Raptor, my CTS V and my Super Duty and none of them were this big of a pitta.....

View attachment 30877
Just an FYI...first off, the install looks nice and clean. However, there was no reason to drill a hole and install a grommet. If you look at the pics of my install, you could have come right through the hole where your Blendmount attaches to the mirror stalk for an even cleaner and stealthier look. There is a huge gap that allows the wire to pass through easily.
 

Neurobit

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Thought I might share how I did my install, I wasnt too keen on running 20” of mirror tap from the bottom of the hunk of crap giant mirror cover these trucks come with like some were doing in this thread.. If im trying to hide the cord I am going to hide it. Drilled a 1/2” hole in the ridiculous cover and put a grommet on it and ran a 12” cord from the mirror. I will say I used the same connector with the 3 wires everybody else was recommending and the wire tap prongs were a tight fit. Did a mirror tap on my C7, my old Gen 2 Raptor, my CTS V and my Super Duty and none of them were this big of a pitta.....

View attachment 30872View attachment 30873View attachment 30874View attachment 30875View attachment 30876View attachment 30877View attachment 30878
Very nice & clean. I did mine a little dif
Thought I might share how I did my install, I wasnt too keen on running 20” of mirror tap from the bottom of the hunk of crap giant mirror cover these trucks come with like some were doing in this thread.. If im trying to hide the cord I am going to hide it. Drilled a 1/2” hole in the ridiculous cover and put a grommet on it and ran a 12” cord from the mirror. I will say I used the same connector with the 3 wires everybody else was recommending and the wire tap prongs were a tight fit. Did a mirror tap on my C7, my old Gen 2 Raptor, my CTS V and my Super Duty and none of them were this big of a pitta.....

View attachment 30872View attachment 30873View attachment 30874View attachment 30875View attachment 30876View attachment 30877View attachment 30878
Nice install. My V1 runs from SAAVY power via ODBC port , so I had to run a long cable routed through A pillar, and front of headliner (and then through the stalk, like SG's install).

Cheers,

IMG_0494.JPGIMG_0493.JPGIMG_0492.JPGIMG_0491.JPGIMG_0495.JPG
 

Jraventos

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See attached instructions for removal of overhead console & rearview mirror, and the wiring harness for rearview mirror.

The headliner harness runs in the same area:

View attachment 1208

This is the mirror harness:

View attachment 1209
[/have a 2019 Ram 3500 HO Limited and I’m trying to install a mirror tap for my radar but I don’t know how to remove the top mirror cover.. HELP
 

securityguy

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So to clarify for hard wiring a dash cam... should I mirror tap or run to fuse box?
In my opinion, as a professional installer for 40+ years, mirror taps are not a good idea. It is very easy to run to the fuse box and use fuse taps and also give yourself an important capability of implementing "PARKING MODE". You cannot enable parking mode using a fuse tap which should be a non-starter for most anyone that fully understands the value of a dash cam. As an FYI...most accidents happen in parking lots!!!
 

MValdez

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In my opinion, as a professional installer for 40+ years, mirror taps are not a good idea. It is very easy to run to the fuse box and use fuse taps and also give yourself an important capability of implementing "PARKING MODE". You cannot enable parking mode using a fuse tap which should be a non-starter for most anyone that fully understands the value of a dash cam. As an FYI...most accidents happen in parking lots!!!
Maybe you could help clear the air of confusion I am undergoing. So the dash Cam I purchased (rexing V1 Pro) came with this hard wire kit s-l300.jpg . Someone recommended that i should buy this tap fuse wire 61bKIHKAjcL._AC_SL1500_.jpg (which I did). For now I am not planning on implementing the "parking mode"just yet. Can you give a newbie hear some advice? The last thing I want to do is install incorrectly resulting in damage to the cam or my truck...
 

securityguy

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@MValdez ...happy to help you out my friend. Since you have the hardwired kit, you do NOT need the fuse taps as the hardwired kit appears, from the picture, to already had the fuse tap installed but hard to tell. All you need to do is ground the cable adjacent to the fuse panel and plug the fuse tap on the hardwired kit into an ACCESSORY fuse position that is switched OFF with the ignition. This kit does not allow for or accommodate Parking Mode as there is no option for both switched and unswitched 12VDC power. I hope this helps!
 

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