Hard-wire Dash Cam Install

[Adrianp89]

You may have missed my point, I have the cams set to continue to work while parked until the battery is down to 11.8v then it shuts off. Hoping the 48v batter keeps the 12v battery charged letting the cams work for a much longer period of time.

But why? Any decent cam has a parking mode so it doesn’t continuously record 24/7.

 

[pwhfmtx]

I did a Hardwire install of the Viofo A129 Duo this weekend and I'm pretty happy with the results so far. The only problems that I had was that the rear camera cable is so thick that it is difficult to tuck behind the headliner; and I had to make a few adjustments to get enough length for the rear camera cable (ran along passenger side).
I spent an hour walking around Home Depot looking for a solution to mount my rear camera. I wanted a nice clean install in the center of the rear window; but needed to work around the sliding rear window. I saw that someone here manufactured a mount from aluminum; but I wanted something that was easy, light. and didn't have to be painted. So after walking the entire Home Depot twice trying to find something to "MacGyver" the rear cam install; I came across what I thought would be a good solution. And IT WAS FREE! I picked up a 4"x4" vinyl floor sample that had a pattern similar to the woodgrain trim on my Laramie (the sample is black on the back). I cut it down to 2" x 3". I heated the cutout and put a bend in it at 3/4". After it cooled, I attached the camera to one end and used double sided adhesive to attach the manufactured mount to the trim above the rear window. It worked perfectly. The sample is pretty thick, so it is plenty stable.
The Viofo camera seems to be pretty good. The Video is incredible and the camera itself is very easy to setup and use. Here are the pictures of my rear camera install:

I need to do this exact thing. I installed my Thinkware U1000 last night and I don't like the camera off to the side on the passenger rear window. I ran the hardwire cable down behind the seat backs and up the glass. I'll have to look into switching this with the Home Depot mod!

 

[Jingtao]

These are 2 I used for mine. The top is always on.

View attachment 15179

Hi Sticker500, the top one is F33, I tested it. seems the left pin is from battery, might want to swap the micro2 tap connection?

I also tried to switch F54B to F54A to get always on power. all USB ports from dash board now have power. the LED from these USB ports are on. will they consume much power? seems better not using this always one ? it is noticed that w/o swapping F54B to F54A, the USB ports from center console ( above AC 115V outlet) already have always on power? Does anyone know which fuse for these USB ports ?

 

[Neurobit]

the top one is F33, I tested it. seems not always on ?

33 is always-on. If you have a tap, make sure it’s seated all the way in.

 

[Pepper]

I wasn't interested in having my dashcam run 24/7. Only wanted it while driving. Have the Escort M1 dashcam, mounted on a BlendMount support. Used a MirrorTap for power, so the dashcam only operates when the power mirror does (ignition on, ACC on, etc.). Clean and efficient, with no wires hanging in my face. The Escort M1 is designed to work in conjunction with a radar detector, and I do not have a radar detector presently (usually drive conservatively) but may purchase one some time in the future. The additional wire coming out of the side of the dashcam (shown hanging loose in the second picture) is the factory supplied power source for the future detector. The power goes through the camera and into the detector. I just have the short detector power cord tied/tucked up out of the way for the time being.
View attachment 15327
View attachment 15328

How did you pop off or remove the plastic upper and lower mirror trim pieces? Everyone says use a plastic tool but no description on how to actually use it. Thanks

 

[Jingtao]

33 is always-on. If you have a tap, make sure it’s seated all the way in.

Yeah. just changed mine from 54 to 33 last night

 

[Pepper]

So, with all the guessing from small upper piece and lower piece, I admittedly was getting nervous using my trim tool to try and remove the upper piece. So I fold the mirror over as far as I can and I take my trim tool and wedge it in the hole with the neck of the mirror itself and pry. I notice that the whole plastic cover is actually "squeezing" or moving together. I then decide to put the trim tool against the glass on the bottom side of the entire plastic housing and just like that it pops out, I then work the trim tool around the housing and pop it all off from the windshield in one piece. I then, turn the mirror itself 1/4 turn to the left and the mirror comes off its base against the windshield. Pictures below to reference. Takes about 30 seconds to remove it all then unplug the wiring harness install your mirror tap or connections for whatever you're putting up there, radar, dash cam, gps, etc.

For the second part of re-installing you need to lift everything up into place and get the mirror ready to re-install on its base on the windshield. Here you need to find the correct orientation so that the mirror alignment neck is facing 9 o'clock, then press the neck into the spring tension base and turn clockwise 1/4 turn to the right and it will immediately set into position. Once you've finagled that together just push the entire housing back into the windshield and pop into place. Pictures attached. I did have to get a tiny small steel L shaped pick to press down into the wire housings as my wire tape would not go down into the housing, extremely tight fit. Once I created a small enough gap to allow the mirror taps to fit, I pressed the wires into the red/white (hot) and black (ground) and put it back together. The entire experiment took about 30 minutes but once I discovered how to do it, I can assure it, it won't take 5 minutes to do the entire job. Hope this helps.

 

[Scott_65]

So, with all the guessing from small upper piece and lower piece, I admittedly was getting nervous using my trim tool to try and remove the upper piece. So I fold the mirror over as far as I can and I take my trim tool and wedge it in the hole with the neck of the mirror itself and pry. I notice that the whole plastic cover is actually "squeezing" or moving together. I then decide to put the trim tool against the glass on the bottom side of the entire plastic housing and just like that it pops out, I then work the trim tool around the housing and pop it all off from the windshield in one piece. I then, turn the mirror itself 1/4 turn to the left and the mirror comes off its base against the windshield. Pictures below to reference. Takes about 30 seconds to remove it all then unplug the wiring harness install your mirror tap or connections for whatever you're putting up there, radar, dash cam, gps, etc.

For the second part of re-installing you need to lift everything up into place and get the mirror ready to re-install on its base on the windshield. Here you need to find the correct orientation so that the mirror alignment neck is facing 9 o'clock, then press the neck into the spring tension base and turn clockwise 1/4 turn to the right and it will immediately set into position. Once you've finagled that together just push the entire housing back into the windshield and pop into place. Pictures attached. I did have to get a tiny small steel L shaped pick to press down into the wire housings as my wire tape would not go down into the housing, extremely tight fit. Once I created a small enough gap to allow the mirror taps to fit, I pressed the wires into the red/white (hot) and black (ground) and put it back together. The entire experiment took about 30 minutes but once I discovered how to do it, I can assure it, it won't take 5 minutes to do the entire job. Hope this helps.

View attachment 41628 View attachment 41629 View attachment 41630 View attachment 41631

I still need to do this, thanks for the instructions. I always thought it would be nice if the manufacturers would just put a RJ11 plug in the back of the mirror but that would be too easy.

 

[Pepper]

I still need to do this, thanks for the instructions. I always thought it would be nice if the manufacturers would just put a RJ11 plug in the back of the mirror but that would be too easy.

I know right.
But seriously if you have any doubts PM your cell and I can call or text you. I bought a cheap trim tool kit from the auto parts store for like $15 and a very small set of picks for $10. After I set in the wire taps I wrapped the connections with a little bit of black tape just as added security they wouldnt separate.

 

[Quigs]

Great write up, I'll be sure and refer to it when I get a warm enough day to tackle my dash cam install.

This will be my first dash cam. After my 16 Laramie was totaled when a Fiat 500 ran a stop sign back in October, I decided that this was a must have mod. There was no issue with proving I wasn't at fault in my crash but I'd rather be safe than sorry. I'll be hard wiring so that my cam will work when the truck is parked too since I park on the street and I'm always paranoid about the neighbor backing into my truck with his giant work truck.

 

[Jako]

I still need to do this, thanks for the instructions. I always thought it would be nice if the manufacturers would just put a RJ11 plug in the back of the mirror but that would be too easy.

Makes me wonder why dash cams are not an option. Radar detectors may have a legal hindrance but I don't see a downside for auto manufacturers to add dash cams.

 

[razalasdr]

Thank you so much for this. I installedd my dashcam perfectly today because of your post. Thank you

Did you use add a circuit tap on F66? If so, you mind sharing the tap you used?

 

[firecadet613]

Did you use add a circuit tap on F66? If so, you mind sharing the tap you used?

This looks like the one I used.

Amazon.com: Etopars 5 X Car Vehicle 12V 24V Car Motor Add-a-circuit MICRO2 ATR Fuse Holder Adapter 15A: Automotive

Buy Etopars 5 X Car Vehicle 12V 24V Car Motor Add-a-circuit MICRO2 ATR Fuse Holder Adapter 15A: Fuse Holders - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[razalasdr]

I actually ended up using a different one for accessory power because the fuses located just above 66 (56, 57, 58) interfered with the fuse tap seating all the way into the slot for 66. I just poked around with a multimeter to test which ones were constant/ignition/accessory power and which ones were constant, then looked up what each one was for to make sure adding an amp of load wouldn't cause a major problem.

If you have a multimeter with nice sharp probes, you certainly don't have to take the fuse out to test them. On the top of each fuse (where it says 10, 15, 20, etc.), there are two tiny indents where you can touch your multimeter to the fuse and see whether it's powered (just ground your black lead to ground somewhere on the truck). Makes it very easy to test fuses quickly. I stuck my black lead up into he middle of the spring that's above the fusebox so I didn't have to hold it in place, then used the red lead to probe each fuse to determine if it was constant, accessory, or ignition power.

B

Hello so which one did you chose in place of 66? Thanks!

 

[Briencrotty]

Hello so which one did you chose in place of 66? Thanks!

I don't remember off the top of my head which one specifically, but probably 41 or 42. Any of the ignition power ones should work.

B

 

[firecadet613]

Hello so which one did you chose in place of 66? Thanks!

After going back and using a tap, I've got no issues with it properly fitting on 66.

 

[Edwards]

I did a Hardwire install of the Viofo A129 Duo this weekend and I'm pretty happy with the results so far. The only problems that I had was that the rear camera cable is so thick that it is difficult to tuck behind the headliner; and I had to make a few adjustments to get enough length for the rear camera cable (ran along passenger side).
I spent an hour walking around Home Depot looking for a solution to mount my rear camera. I wanted a nice clean install in the center of the rear window; but needed to work around the sliding rear window. I saw that someone here manufactured a mount from aluminum; but I wanted something that was easy, light. and didn't have to be painted. So after walking the entire Home Depot twice trying to find something to "MacGyver" the rear cam install; I came across what I thought would be a good solution. And IT WAS FREE! I picked up a 4"x4" vinyl floor sample that had a pattern similar to the woodgrain trim on my Laramie (the sample is black on the back). I cut it down to 2" x 3". I heated the cutout and put a bend in it at 3/4". After it cooled, I attached the camera to one end and used double sided adhesive to attach the manufactured mount to the trim above the rear window. It worked perfectly. The sample is pretty thick, so it is plenty stable.
The Viofo camera seems to be pretty good. The Video is incredible and the camera itself is very easy to setup and use. Here are the pictures of my rear camera install:

I just installed mine today and had the HD tile sample ready to go but would up not using it. I did reverse the rear cable like you did so that the 90 degree end was at the rear but I just stuck the camera to the upper window frame without any sort of bracket. I wired it all up first to double check the picture and those cameras have to be really close to a side object for it to block the view. My view is not blocked at all by the high mounting position.

Just posting this for others looking to mount the same. I don't think you need a bracket at all unless you use the straight end of the cable (for clearance.)

 

[kittyjo]

So forgive me if I sound dumb but I don’t know the fuse size for the dash cam I am getting and paying someone to install it properly one place I called 150$!!!! The other so so place 50$ how hard is it to install a street guardian

Street Guardian 2020 SG9663DCPRO Dual Channel Wi-Fi ?
anyone know a good place to go I live in the 27410

 

[Patsy1099]

So forgive me if I sound dumb but I don’t know the fuse size for the dash cam I am getting and paying someone to install it properly one place I called 150$!!!! The other so so place 50$ how hard is it to install a street guardian

Street Guardian 2020 SG9663DCPRO Dual Channel Wi-Fi ?
anyone know a good place to go I live in the 27410

couldn’t be easier. Stick it to the windshield (usually center up high). Run the cable by tucking in inside the headliner, tuck around the a pillar on drivers side, run the wire up underneath the steering wheel and there is the fuse panel. Use a “add a circuit” fuse that you can get on amazon. Very straight forward. Pull existing fuse and plug this add a circuit using two fuses and crimp the camera wire into it. There should be plenty of info here in how to do it and tons of YouTube vids. Hit up @securityguy with questions. He’s the man. This is a very easy DIY starter job and you will be happy with the $150. If it’s your first project it might take you 3 times as long as someone else but you will learn and future projects will come easier. Good luck!

 

[firecadet613]

So forgive me if I sound dumb but I don’t know the fuse size for the dash cam I am getting and paying someone to install it properly one place I called 150$!!!! The other so so place 50$ how hard is it to install a street guardian

Street Guardian 2020 SG9663DCPRO Dual Channel Wi-Fi ?
anyone know a good place to go I live in the 27410

Look at the first post of this thread. I have detailed instructions complete with pictures, should take you an hour or less.