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Front Air Dam Removal

Would it be advised that I take them both off? Or say can I just take off the stationary and leave the AAD? Not sure if that would cause any damage just keeping the AAD
There’s a guy I follow on IG that removed the fixed one and kept the active one and he’s had it like that for a long time so I’m assuming it’s fine, but I personally think it looks funny.
 
Love the look. How is mpg affected with the dams removed?
 
I’ll be honest I didn’t read every post so if already answered oops… does this mess with warranty? Seems like they have so much fine print nowadays I just want to make sure cause that definitely looks a lot better and hunting season is right around the corner I need that extra clearance and my lift is a month out on delivery
 
Has anyone had experience adding the active air dam when the truck was delivered without it and the window sticker says "Air Dam Delete -$85? Can this be done??
 
I am not a fan of the front air dam/valence. What’s the point of having a truck with 6” of clearance in the front. Always find myself catching them on snow in the winter.

I searched around looking for pictures and information around issues with a dash light if the active air dam was removed. Found a couple pictures but no other information so I wanted to post up for others who wanted to remove the air dam and active air dam.

The active air dam is a simple electric connection and 4 12mm bolts. I taped up the connection to keep weather out and zip tied it to itself out of the way. If anyone knows a blank plug cap for this connection please post below. I was worried disconnecting might throw a check engine light or something but have had absolutely no issues.

The front air dam is just a matter of removing 15ish (didn’t take an actual count) 10mm nuts, 3 plastic clips, and 2 10mm nuts holding on plastic brackets. Then it just drops down and you’re done.

Now I understand these are for aerodynamics and better fuel mileage.I didn’t make this thread to get into the advantages and disadvantages of the air dams being there vs not. Just wanted to show some before and after pictures and a brief right up.

I am very happy with how it looks.
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Hi Neighbor where in Massachusetts are you ? I'm in Southwick, Mass.
 
Just took both the active air dam and the lower valence from the bumper off of my 2019 1500 today.
 

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Any skid plates made for this yet?? It’s been 2-3 years since this body style been out
I had one made for my FJ years ago but when I called the company, they dont make one for the Ram truck...............just Toyota. They even powder coated it TRD red which matched some interior badges, logos and accents.
 

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Finally got around to taking both the front valence and active air dam off. Also put on my tow loops while I was down there. Looks so much better, and it’s roughly 5.5” of ground clearance gained.
For reference: truck is on a 2.5” Motofab level, tires are 285/65/20 Falken Wildpeak AT3W
 

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Just wanna say thanks to everyone who has been contributing to this thread. I haven't had my Ram long but ever since I bought it I have disliked the look of the valence and feel it takes away from the off-roading capabilities when you gotta worry about ripping the valence off due to the whopping 6" or so of clearance it leaves. It's also ugly as sin.

I'm curious if anyone has tracked their mileage to see if there was an actual difference but after reading this whole thread it seems there's mixed reports of less mpg and some of more mpg so I can't imagine it makes a real-world difference, a Rebel and a regular Ram with the same 5.7 ET have the same mpg ratings (19 combined, 17city/22hwy) despite the lack of the valence on the Rebel.

Anyway, I'll be installing some side steps tomorrow so I'll also be removing the valence while I'm at it. These trucks look so much better without it.
 
Just wanna say thanks to everyone who has been contributing to this thread. I haven't had my Ram long but ever since I bought it I have disliked the look of the valence and feel it takes away from the off-roading capabilities when you gotta worry about ripping the valence off due to the whopping 6" or so of clearance it leaves. It's also ugly as sin.

I'm curious if anyone has tracked their mileage to see if there was an actual difference but after reading this whole thread it seems there's mixed reports of less mpg and some of more mpg so I can't imagine it makes a real-world difference, a Rebel and a regular Ram with the same 5.7 ET have the same mpg ratings (19 combined, 17city/22hwy) despite the lack of the valence on the Rebel.

Anyway, I'll be installing some side steps tomorrow so I'll also be removing the valence while I'm at it. These trucks look so much better without it.

Yeah, my mileage testing showed imperceptible difference. There might be a bit, but I honestly don’t think there’s much of a gain, if any, with it installed.

That said, I ended up putting my air dams back on because there is absolutely no protection into the engine bay. From the front of the truck, there’s basically a straight shot for a rock to get into the belts of the engine. I’ll be the first to remove the air dams again once someone developed an aftermarket skid plate for this region.
 
Even a plastic skid plate would be better than nothing. Almost every vehicle I’ve owned had this
 
 
Has anyone sustained engine component damage as a result of removing the fixed front air dam?
 
I did the delete as well but with 35” tires I only get about 11mpg on a good day couldn’t tell if I loss anymore mpg..
 

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Following up on my post for you all.
I finally got the plug and had time to get it installed. It worked great, and fit perfectly. So if you’re looking for a plug solution for the active air dam harness, here is what I did.
1. Ordered Mercedes part number 0535451528. Got mine from eBay used for $5. (See links in previous post)

2. assemble two parts of the plug
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3. Epoxy the end with 4 holes to seal it. I used 60 second epoxy because I’m impatient and it was thick enough not to run out the small pin holes for the connectors on the opposite end of the plug. Careful not to epoxy it on to your truck 😂
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4. I put dielectric grease in the end that goes over the active air dam harness. Probably too much but you get the idea.
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5. Install until it clicks and press the white clip in to secure it like is was from the factory. Then zip tie it up or let it flop around, whatever you want to do.

The Results before it got zip tied up:
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Thanks for this info.
I think ill try heat shrink and tape, but im guessing your way is safest.
Seems like just keeping it dry is the key.
Mine comes off in the next couple days. Fingers crossed no CEL
 
Removed both of mine today.
I just taped the connector and zip tied it up.
But I really would like a splash guard between the bumper and cross member.
I dont think metal makes sense since it would only be attached to the bumper where the old passive air dam was correct? Or is there a metal piece in the bumper we could attach it to?
I definitely wouldnt want steel. Maybe aluminum, but preferably just plastic splash guard material.

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