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For those with 6 speaker base stereo who have upgraded-What speaker did you use?

I think that's mostly been on the door speakers and it has something to do with the ANC.

When I took my dash speakers out the (+) wire lined up to the speaker tab that had the capacitor (both speakers were in phase). I don't know about my door speakers as I currently don't have any intention of swapping them out.

I'm not sure what the reasoning behind it is but I've always been told to put the filter/bass blocker on the (+) side. The Crutchfield bass blockers come with connectors already crimped on and the filter is on the (+) line.

Which tab is it on your JBL replacement? The larger tab is traditionally the (+) and the narrow tab is the (-). There might also be a red dot on one of the connections and that also signifies that it is the (+) connection.

The Metra connectors were wired backwards so both of my dash speakers would have been out of phase if I didn't swap pins when I put the new speakers in.
I can see that this topic has been covered a few times but I'm finding conflicting information. @brian42 did you leave your ANC in place and simply upgrade the speakers without losing the ANC functionality? That is exactly what I am hoping to do. Thanks for helping to simplify this!
 
Yes, but that's only because I upgraded dash speakers only.

Once you venture into changing out the door speakers and/or adding a sub then bypassing the ANC comes into play. You don't have to disable/bypass the ANC for just door speakers (no amp) per se but many have noted that aftermarket speakers don't play well with the ANC system.
 
I upgraded all speakers, added 2 amplifiers, and bypassed the ANC module. 4 DS18 PRO-X6.5 4OHM in the doors with adapters to go from 6X9 to 6.5", DS18 PRO-TW120 bullet tweeters, , 2 DS18 GEN X 10" dual 4 ohm subs wired down to a 1 OHM load, Audio Control LC-4.800 and SKAR Audio RP-800.1. I used the ANC bypass from NETAUDIO, and I have the ANC bypass from LLJ customs as I bought both. I like the NET AUDIO bypass better.
 
Weird issue, wondering if anyone has seen something similar.

I put in a JL stealthbox with RF mono amp today. No issues with the install, everything went lovely.

As soon as I put battery cable back on and jumped in to test things out I noticed The screen looked different (blue icons and what not and I *THINK* they were red previously). Whatever, weird but not horrible truck sounds great now... Go to back out of the garage and notice the backup camera doesn't come on. Upon further inspection, It's like my truck never had it. I previously had the shortcut for back up camera in the bottom row and that is gone now. Additionally, I can't adjust parking sensor sensitivity/brake control etc anymore as those sections appear to have disappeared.

TL:DR
Installed subs and amp, lost back up camera.


Pertinent info:
I've had ANC bypassed for months now (rear door speakers changed to infinity) using a bypass from Crutchfield.
Today I changed to this harness https://netaudio.com/product/2019-up-dodge-ram-subwoofer-harness-with-anc/

The only other things added today were:
JL stealthbox with 12s
RF r2-1200x1 AMP
Wired up with Knu Concepts OFC 0 gauge kit


Anybody ever seen anything like this?
 
^^^ for anyone that happens to see that or have a similar issue- I went to dinner in the truck tonight after it sitting for 2-3 hours and everything was back to normal.
Back up camera is there, icons are correct, parking sensor stuff is there, and it’s back to red coloring.
 
What door speakers work well not amplified? I dont plan on subs or any amps, just running off the stock head. I've already did the fatial pros in the dash.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 
I'll be honest I have no idea about speakers. If I have the 8.4 non alpine system. What should I buy that will just plug and play as an upgrade for the dash speakers. Thanks guys.
 
@Bighorned, since you have the Alpine system, the speakers are different than the base system. There is too much info floating around and it's very confusing to find the right speaker for the right system (stock, Alpine and H&K) because they ALL use different components.
 
@Bighorned, since you have the Alpine system, the speakers are different than the base system. There is too much info floating around and it's very confusing to find the right speaker for the right system (stock, Alpine and H&K) because they ALL use different components.
mine is non alpine Sir. Stock system.
 
I'll be honest I have no idea about speakers. If I have the 8.4 non alpine system. What should I buy that will just plug and play as an upgrade for the dash speakers. Thanks guys.
I have the standard system. I used Faitalpro 8 ohm in the dash with crutchfield 600hz bass blockers. I am happy. I avoided the kicker and infinity's because I did not want a tweeter in the dash. The stock speakers in the dash of the base six speaker system are 8 ohm. Stay with 8 ohm and no matter what you pick you should be fine.
 
I have the standard system. I used Faitalpro 8 ohm in the dash with crutchfield 600hz bass blockers. I am happy. I avoided the kicker and infinity's because I did not want a tweeter in the dash. The stock speakers in the dash of the base six speaker system are 8 ohm. Stay with 8 ohm and no matter what you pick you should be fine.
Thank you very much. does the bass blocker go inline with the dash speaker? and do you have a part number for the faitalpro? there are a ton lol
 
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No it is just a harness from crutchfield that stops any frequency below 600hz from getting to the speaker.
ahh awesome. so just put it inline with the speaker then? do you have a part number for the speaker?
 
Thank you very much. does the bass blocker go inline with the dash speaker? and do you have a part number for the faitalpro? there are a ton lol
The faitalPRO speaker I used was 3FE22 - 8 ohms.

I also used the Crutchfield bass blockers - 007BB600 (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007BB600/Crutchfield-Bass-Blockers-600-Hz-cut-off.html). They have a 300Hz cutoff @ 8 ohms.

Remember there will be some trimming for the speakers to fit.

Also make sure the connections are tight and solid. I had to go back into both sides to tighten the connections a couple of months later.
 
The faitalPRO speaker I used was 3FE22 - 8 ohms.

I also used the Crutchfield bass blockers - 007BB600 (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007BB600/Crutchfield-Bass-Blockers-600-Hz-cut-off.html). They have a 300Hz cutoff @ 8 ohms.

Remember there will be some trimming for the speakers to fit.

Also make sure the connections are tight and solid. I had to go back into both sides to tighten the connections a couple of months later.
Thanks so much! What do I need to trim?
 
Thanks so much! What do I need to trim?
Many have trimmed them like this:


Write-up of my installation:


Unfortunately I was pressed for time to finish and didn't take a picture after I trimmed the speakers. I test-fitted them to see which way I wanted the terminals to face underneath so that there was plenty of room for the connectors and to feed the wires and bass blocker down into the dash.

Once I was happy with the orientation I took my rotary (Dremel) tool and cut the end piece out of the tabs I was going to use to turn them into a fork instead of a closed tab. Then I ground down the collar on the tab near the tip so that it was flat. These mounts will be on opposing sides.

Then I cut the other two tabs off. some have only cut one off but my OCD would not let me do that as the speaker would not sit flat in the mount for my truck.

This is if you are going to use the OEM mounting screws/speed nuts. If you want you can just drill new holes in the dash plastic next to the mounting location so you don't need to modify the mounting tabs (I think Sonnie did that) but there is not enough room to maneuver for me to comfortably do that with the windshield making it a small space to work in.

OEM speaker:

Speaker_OEM.jpg

faitalPRO 3FE22:

Speaker_FP.jpg

faitalPRO in my dash with mounting tab modifications:

IMG-2743.jpg
 
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