Ribero
Member
Hello, I also had this chirping and checked for the noise in all areas of the vehicle just like in the video. After complaining to my dealer, who was aware of the issue from other customers, the guide plates for the brake pads were given as the reason. You would smear these with anti squeak paste and it would be good. I then picked the vehicle up from the dealer, but the chirping could still be heard.
I took a look at it myself at home and was able to fix it permanently. Nothing is defective, and no parts need to be replaced. The workshop just didn't find or look at the right places. I think some of the posts here feel the same way.
How to fix it, for me the noise was in the front: jack up, wheel down, push back the caliper carefully and slightly. Unscrew the two screws from the brake caliper. Remove the brake caliper and tie it up so that the brake line is not stressed. Carefully remove the brake pads. Carefully clean the guide plates used without bending them. You can also take them out, it's easier that way. If you look closely at the brake pads and the sheet metal, you will notice spots where the material has rubbed against each other. This is where the noise comes from. Unfortunately, the workshop applied anti-squeak paste, but did not find the right spots for the squeaking. Look closely at the pictures, then you can see the small shiny spots on the sheet metal, as well as on the edges of the pads. The silver paste is the work of the dealer, unfortunately I didn't take any pictures afterwards. I cleaned everything well and coated these areas with the well-tried copper paste. I've actually always done this with every brake service for 30 years. I'm surprised that everything is installed dry from the factory, which is why customers have problems with it. But go ahead, put everything back in place and enjoy the smooth ride. A job when the wheel is already dismantled, takes less than 5 minutes, costs a few cents for the copper paste. Maybe a modern brake anti-squeak paste would be better, I didn't have any on hand and the copper paste has always worked for me. By the way, if you can also do something to the spark plug thread when changing it, it can always be easily loosened, but that's another topic.
Greetings from Germany, I hope it helps you to fix the problem yourself or give the tip to the workshop instead of driving there 3x in vain and getting angry.
I took a look at it myself at home and was able to fix it permanently. Nothing is defective, and no parts need to be replaced. The workshop just didn't find or look at the right places. I think some of the posts here feel the same way.
How to fix it, for me the noise was in the front: jack up, wheel down, push back the caliper carefully and slightly. Unscrew the two screws from the brake caliper. Remove the brake caliper and tie it up so that the brake line is not stressed. Carefully remove the brake pads. Carefully clean the guide plates used without bending them. You can also take them out, it's easier that way. If you look closely at the brake pads and the sheet metal, you will notice spots where the material has rubbed against each other. This is where the noise comes from. Unfortunately, the workshop applied anti-squeak paste, but did not find the right spots for the squeaking. Look closely at the pictures, then you can see the small shiny spots on the sheet metal, as well as on the edges of the pads. The silver paste is the work of the dealer, unfortunately I didn't take any pictures afterwards. I cleaned everything well and coated these areas with the well-tried copper paste. I've actually always done this with every brake service for 30 years. I'm surprised that everything is installed dry from the factory, which is why customers have problems with it. But go ahead, put everything back in place and enjoy the smooth ride. A job when the wheel is already dismantled, takes less than 5 minutes, costs a few cents for the copper paste. Maybe a modern brake anti-squeak paste would be better, I didn't have any on hand and the copper paste has always worked for me. By the way, if you can also do something to the spark plug thread when changing it, it can always be easily loosened, but that's another topic.
Greetings from Germany, I hope it helps you to fix the problem yourself or give the tip to the workshop instead of driving there 3x in vain and getting angry.
come back unless you do the more permanent grease or some other fix. Rain or water will wash away your temp fix. I went through this a couple years ago. I would lube myself with silicone spray which fixed it but it would return after a good wet road drive. Finally the dealer recreated it and they fixed it by replacing my brake pads and I think did the lube fix. Mine have been silent ever since.
