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Air conditioning performance

I live in maine and the temps aren't really too hot outside but I did notice it doesn't seem to cool like my 2016 2500 cc. I have to keep checking it to make sure its on recirc and low because it doesn't feel as cold as my other vehicles.
 
I've got an 8* difference between driver and passenger vents (60 & 52 respectively). The 60 puts me 5* over the 55* target temperature for apparent temp of 100*.

Got the 1234yf auto adapters in the mail tonight. I'm gonna check pressures tomorrow sometime.
 
Saw a video on the 1234yf yesterday and apparently it is quite flamable as compared to the previous generation. They had to do special testing which showed that under the right conditions it could be hazardous. I am no genius on the matter but it may be of interest. I would post the link here but the video contains a few words some may find crude or offensive so I will only provide it if Jared B approves.
 
Just my 2 cents on my truck, IMO it has a very adequate AC system and seems to work fine here in Indiana. I know it isn’t 100 degrees here constantly but works fine when it is 90 degrees even with the pano cover open.
 
Vent temp will increase the further away from the evaporator the vent is. The far right vent may be the coldest or slightly warmer than the right center and the far left the warmest typically.

I did some more vent temp testing, the max AC is the coldest even over auto LO and recirc on.
 
Boatjockey said:
Saw a video on the 1234yf yesterday and apparently it is quite flamable as compared to the previous generation. They had to do special testing which showed that under the right conditions it could be hazardous. I am no genius on the matter but it may be of interest. I would post the link here but the video contains a few words some may find crude or offensive so I will only provide it if Jared B approves.
Click to expand...

Sounds like an informative video, go for it. Maybe just mention its not safe for work or something in case someone opens it at their place of business. (y)
 
Ickabod said:
Here is the difference between drivers side and passenger side yesterday...8 degree difference.
This is still not as good as my 2017 BMW's A/C.
Click to expand...

Dang that 65 is pretty pitiful, especially since it’s 93 outside, which is hot but not super hot compared to the typical southern summer.

I agree with others that it’s tough to get an “apples to apples” comparison because everyone’s testing methodology may be slightly different.

Regardless, it seems some of these AC systems are underperforming what you’d typically expect in a nice, brand new, state of the art truck.
 
RBRK said:
Vent temp will increase the further away from the evaporator the vent is. The far right vent may be the coldest or slightly warmer than the right center and the far left the warmest typically.
Click to expand...

Makes sense but seems like a 6-7 degree difference would require quite a bit of extra hose run when comparing the driver and passenger vents that boarder the Uconnect. Since the driver and passenger temperatures can be controlled separately, it seems like a blend door or sensor or something would be more likely to be the issue. It also seems like some trucks don't have the problem. As people have mentioned, there are a lot of variables in play (including thermometer positioning, inside and outside temperatures, humidity, etc) but the bottom line is that I just went for a 40 minute ride with the wife and the truck never felt comfortable - nor did the air coming from the vents feel cold. I haven't given the dealer a chance to look at it yet, but when it goes in for the first service, I will have it checked out.
 
Aries Ram said:
I was doing some research on the new refrigerant in our trucks and look what I found. Ram should be ashamed, Mercedes refuse it because of fire hazards. The EPA must have FCA in their back pockets, if the EPA says jump FCA says how high. Politicing to the Fullest Excuse my Grammar
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...-caused-ENGINE-FIRES-Mercedes-Benz-tests.html
Click to expand...
Interesting article about the refrigerant, there are similar concerns over rigid foam insulation in our walls when combusted, which is why I chose not to use it in my camper - truly deadly fumes when burned, ask a chemist. I would say the idea that the EPA will help regulate a corporation’s actions (such as use of this refrigerant) under the current administration is very unlikely - not meant to be political or polarizing, but reasonable observers would likely agree. If as consumers we are not satisfied with this refigerant due to crash safety concerns (remember the exploding Pinto and the $1 fix Ford refused to install until forced?) our feasible avenues are therefore either customer care (not likely to help on this), online criticisms comparing to their direct competitors threatening the brand’s safety image, or litigation, at least until the administration’s view of the EPA’s role changes. No great options if regulators can’t help us.

So I wonder do Chevy and Ford use that stuff too? Toyota, Nissan? If so we’re all in this together. If your engine bay catches fire, tell the family to hold their breath and get upwind no kidding.

Now, after all that I still wish everyone’s AC was cooler!
 
Jared B said:
Sounds like an informative video, go for it. Maybe just mention its not safe for work or something in case someone opens it at their place of business. (y)
Click to expand...
I am providing links to 2 videos on 1234yf. The first link is based on a Daimler Benz investigation and the second is a video by an Australian auto expert who uses an ocassional crude or offensive word so open at your own discretion. I found both to be very informative. The Aussie also posted a very good video on window tint and what it really does and doesn't do. I will post that in the tint discussion.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/video/ne...f-dangerous-VW-says-CO2-best-refrigerant.html

 
So curiosity has gotten the best of me, back story here - 20yrs ago I used to work apartment maintenance and have my EPA lifetime license for "Universal" meaning Home, and Refrigeration and "Auto" which used to be R-12. While Refrigerant and technology has changed the rules haven't.

A/C 101 -
all Refrigerants work on the same principle amount of pressure effects temp
Every wonder why your home a/c freezes up? 1 of 2 reasons:
1 - dirty filter not enough airflow over the coils
2 - Low pressure, thus the need and market for a "a/c tuneup" or "top off"

If your "freon" pressure is too low it drops below freezing and you coils ice over!

There's a balance between too low of pressure and too high and it is affected by ambient temp, we all learned in science class that heat causes gas to expand right?

Now here's the info...
I couldn't find a whole lot of info on the R1234yf everything is still mainstreamed for R134a however they both operate at close to the same pressures so here's what it boils down to:

Depending on outside temp it should be running between 36.5-55 psi on a set of gauges for the low side.
36.5 would make R1234yf 38 degrees F @ 65F ambient temp
55.0 would make R1234yf 56 degrees F @ 85F-110F ambient temp

I no longer do a/c work and don't have the gauges to hookup to my truck;
but if I was servicing it myself I would want mine to run @50 psi on these hot days giving me a 50 degree F temp

I've attached my own excel chart in pdf since I can't upload an excel doc and here's the references:

https://www.tecumseh.com/~/media/No...ica-Library/ES114-TempPress-Card-AE2-1114.pdf

http://rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart

https://www.arcltd.org.au/media/1040/auto-gas-booklet.pdf

and lastly, regarding the flammability of R1234yf I can't find the link to where I read it, but the conclusion was that it was no more a risk than having fuel under the hood. If you want no risks, lock yourself in your house and pray you don't get hit with floods, lightning, tornados, wildfires or earth quakes, and for my friends in Florida sinkholes!
 

Attachments

RT70808 said:
So curiosity has gotten the best of me, back story here - 20yrs ago I used to work apartment maintenance and have my EPA lifetime license for "Universal" meaning Home, and Refrigeration and "Auto" which used to be R-12. While Refrigerant and technology has changed the rules haven't.

A/C 101 -
all Refrigerants work on the same principle amount of pressure effects temp
Every wonder why your home a/c freezes up? 1 of 2 reasons:
1 - dirty filter not enough airflow over the coils
2 - Low pressure, thus the need and market for a "a/c tuneup" or "top off"

If your "freon" pressure is too low it drops below freezing and you coils ice over!

There's a balance between too low of pressure and too high and it is affected by ambient temp, we all learned in science class that heat causes gas to expand right?

Now here's the info...
I couldn't find a whole lot of info on the R1234yf everything is still mainstreamed for R134a however they both operate at close to the same pressures so here's what it boils down to:

Depending on outside temp it should be running between 36.5-55 psi on a set of gauges for the low side.
36.5 would make R1234yf 38 degrees F @ 65F ambient temp
55.0 would make R1234yf 56 degrees F @ 85F-110F ambient temp

I no longer do a/c work and don't have the gauges to hookup to my truck;
but if I was servicing it myself I would want mine to run @50 psi on these hot days giving me a 50 degree F temp

I've attached my own excel chart in pdf since I can't upload an excel doc and here's the references:

https://www.tecumseh.com/~/media/No...ica-Library/ES114-TempPress-Card-AE2-1114.pdf

http://rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart

https://www.arcltd.org.au/media/1040/auto-gas-booklet.pdf

and lastly, regarding the flammability of R1234yf I can't find the link to where I read it, but the conclusion was that it was no more a risk than having fuel under the hood. If you want no risks, lock yourself in your house and pray you don't get hit with floods, lightning, tornados, wildfires or earth quakes, and for my friends in Florida sinkholes!
Click to expand...

Love the last paragraph! Well said.:LOL:
 
RT70808 said:
So curiosity has gotten the best of me, back story here - 20yrs ago I used to work apartment maintenance and have my EPA lifetime license for "Universal" meaning Home, and Refrigeration and "Auto" which used to be R-12. While Refrigerant and technology has changed the rules haven't.

A/C 101 -
all Refrigerants work on the same principle amount of pressure effects temp
Every wonder why your home a/c freezes up? 1 of 2 reasons:
1 - dirty filter not enough airflow over the coils
2 - Low pressure, thus the need and market for a "a/c tuneup" or "top off"

If your "freon" pressure is too low it drops below freezing and you coils ice over!

There's a balance between too low of pressure and too high and it is affected by ambient temp, we all learned in science class that heat causes gas to expand right?

Now here's the info...
I couldn't find a whole lot of info on the R1234yf everything is still mainstreamed for R134a however they both operate at close to the same pressures so here's what it boils down to:

Depending on outside temp it should be running between 36.5-55 psi on a set of gauges for the low side.
36.5 would make R1234yf 38 degrees F @ 65F ambient temp
55.0 would make R1234yf 56 degrees F @ 85F-110F ambient temp

I no longer do a/c work and don't have the gauges to hookup to my truck;
but if I was servicing it myself I would want mine to run @50 psi on these hot days giving me a 50 degree F temp

I've attached my own excel chart in pdf since I can't upload an excel doc and here's the references:

https://www.tecumseh.com/~/media/No...ica-Library/ES114-TempPress-Card-AE2-1114.pdf

http://rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart

https://www.arcltd.org.au/media/1040/auto-gas-booklet.pdf

and lastly, regarding the flammability of R1234yf I can't find the link to where I read it, but the conclusion was that it was no more a risk than having fuel under the hood. If you want no risks, lock yourself in your house and pray you don't get hit with floods, lightning, tornados, wildfires or earth quakes, and for my friends in Florida sinkholes!
Click to expand...
You forgot hurricanes and aliens.
 
So, guys ....I went in this morning because my cup holder won't "latch" shut. They put one on order ...2-3 weeks for that. So, I told them I didn't feel the AC was performing as it should and wanted it checked out. Mind you.....I've been reporting that mine was fine....and truthfully, it is. So, today it's only 80 degrees and raining. The vent temps were 40* and the evap temp is 39* (don't ask me how the tech checked this). So there is a code: B10EB-4B-BLOWER POWER MODULE-OVER TEMPERATURE first step in diagnosis is to replace blower motor. So, it'll go in tomorrow for a new blower motor.

So, you guys who have issues.......its definitely worth checking out at the dealer. I admitted it wasn't as cold as previous cars but it was fine in those near 100* temps the last couple weeks. We'll see----maybe it'll be able to freeze me now
 
Last edited:
I test drove a 2019 1500 on Saturday where it was around 100 degrees here in North Texas. I had the AC on Auto cranked to Lo (both sides). It took quite a bit of time to cool down (much longer than my 11 1500 or 16 2500). I attribute the excess heat to the sunroof. It did eventually cool down. I also always tint my front windows and use a sunshade which helps quite a bit, as well.
 
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