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Air conditioning Hack

Billet1500 4x4

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Is this still an issue in the 2020 models? I'm planning to purchase soon but this could be a deal breaker for me as I live in the hotter climate and AC is a must.
the problem isn't the AC system itself. That works properly. The issue is a blend door is allowing hot air to mix in with the cold air heating the air that AC system just cooled back up by about 10 degrees F. If Ram has indeed fixed this issue they will not formally admit that a change was made because that would mean acknowledging there was an issue in the first place which puts them on the hook to repair all the 2019s with sub par air temps on the drivers side vents. The loop hole they have right now is even though the drivers side is warmer than the passenger side it is still within published specifications. I live where we see 110 F plus and without shutting off the coolant flow to the heater core the vent temperatures are inadequate for comfort cooling above about 102 F.
 

Ellisstrong

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POS to you maybe. I love the panoramic sunroof in the truck. I use it much more often than I thought I would.
Yeah I’ve lived in Dallas area and Tampa Bay Area with my ram and get plenty of use out of my pano roof and love it
 

Gman

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If it ever gets to the point of a class action, they'll find you if you're part of the 'class'. If the class action has a dollar settlement, you'll get next to nothing. The lawyers will make out very well. If the settlement is for a repair, then you'll be notified about how to get it fixed.
 

LordoftheRams

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Just a thought about this hack and please excuse me if this has been discussed... Watch this video (you can fast forward to time stamp 6:30) She specifically mentions heated coolant from the heater core sent back to preheat the rear end differential for efficiency purposes (as well as the transmission mentioned a few moments later). I'm curious if this will reduce coolant flow to the axle as she describes it. Not that I care that much about "heating" the rear axle living around Houston but cooling it might be a benefit. I'm just curious, how this hack affects this system.

 

mike_ct

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Just a thought about this hack and please excuse me if this has been discussed... Watch this video (you can fast forward to time stamp 6:30) She specifically mentions heated coolant from the heater core sent back to preheat the rear end differential for efficiency purposes (as well as the transmission mentioned a few moments later). I'm curious if this will reduce coolant flow to the axle as she describes it. Not that I care that much about "heating" the rear axle living around Houston but cooling it might be a benefit. I'm just curious, how this hack affects this system.

I don’t think the 5.7s have the diff interheater. At least mine doesn’t. So no affect. Maybe it’s an etorque or 3.6 thing?
 

KcRay

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Just a thought about this hack and please excuse me if this has been discussed... Watch this video (you can fast forward to time stamp 6:30) She specifically mentions heated coolant from the heater core sent back to preheat the rear end differential for efficiency purposes (as well as the transmission mentioned a few moments later). I'm curious if this will reduce coolant flow to the axle as she describes it. Not that I care that much about "heating" the rear axle living around Houston but cooling it might be a benefit. I'm just curious, how this hack affects this system.

The hack only stops heated coolant from getting to the heater core. There's a different port and hose coming from the water pump that goes to the transmission.
 

kapinallinen2

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Maybe my Rebel is the un-norm. The AC works, the heat works.
Been to Florida in the winter and in the summer. She rides as a dream.
Fuel-economy. I smile every time I hit the pedal.
 

ramhead

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Maybe my Rebel is the un-norm. The AC works, the heat works.
Been to Florida in the winter and in the summer. She rides as a dream.
Fuel-economy. I smile every time I hit the pedal.

As has been said before, when it comes to the a/c what "works" is very subjective depending on the individual person. Of the majority here, the a/c is functioning ("working") but not satisfactorily cooling, esp. in very hot temps. Glad it seems to be ok for you but that doesn't mean others might agree if they were in your truck. The only sure way to get meaningful info is to use a thermometer in the upper center vent, recirc on, fan at mid or 3/4 setting, windows closed and get a reading after running for 5 or 10 minutes. Said readings are also outdoor temperature dependent so you would get different readings on the thermo depending on how hot or cool it was outside when you tested for the readings.

As I posted here or on another thread I was getting 54 or 55 degrees on the thermometer on a 90 degree day which was "acceptable" to me but I would have liked it a bit colder. On and 80 to 85 degree day I would be getting 47 to 49 on the thermometer which was comfortable and cold enough. On 95 degrees or so the a/c was not satisfactory cooling enough but, gladly, we didn't have many of those by me and/or I didn't have to drive all that much on the days we did. If I lived in a climate where that was an ongoing thing, I'd surely be pissed about the a/c performance and would definitely do the cheap clamp/valve alteration to improve it.
 
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Gman

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I think the diff heater/cooler only applies to two wheel drive trucks.
There is discussion regarding the rear diff heat exchanger. I recall that it's not only significant to 2WD, but there's something specific to the build like rear axle ratio. I would imagine that it's a pretty unique configuration to this forum.

I'd be more concerned about any interference with the heat exchanger for the trans. Folks that have looked into this hack much further than I have state that the coolant loop being modified is specific to the heater core.
 

Janruary

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I would like to install a valve in the heater supply line to the HVAC system to get cold air conditioning temps in the summer. I noticed that the return line clamp can be pinched to remove it. The hot water supply has a different clamp with a tab that prevents the clamp from being pinched enough to loosen it. Any one else have this problem, if so, how did you get the clamp loose?
 

Patsy1099

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@KcRay and others having this issue. I was reading another thread that made me think of this thread. The other thread was discussing how some members are having issues with their “ambient temperature sensor” so the truck reads the outside temp very differently than the actual temp. Sometimes by a significant amount. That in turns affects what type of air the truck blows. I’m pretty sure I saw earlier in this thread where members ambient readings clearly showed outside temp in the 90+ range so that should really be enough to trigger the AC to blow cold BUT I’m wondering if there isn’t a further glitch between the ambient temp sensor and the software which is causing the blending to be off.

The sensor is located underneath the drivers side mirror. A flat screwdriver or trim tool can open it. disconnecting it has allowed it to properly reset in some circumstances and in others it was faulty and needed replacement. Might be worth a shot:unsure:
Here’s the other thread
 

ExcursionDiesel

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How many of you guys have the full length sunroof?
That POS is what cooks the interior when parked in the sun. Would help if they had put some reflective tint on it or something to deflect the sun.
Last truck (15 Ram) had no sunroof and thee A/C froze me out of the cab on the hottest days.

I cut a piece of the 1/4" thick foil insulation you buy at Lowes to the size of the panoramic sunroof and slide it in place when the summer heat finally arrives. With the shade closed it can't be seen. This lowers the radiated temperature into the cab tremendously. I could tell that my cab didn't get as hot when parked in the sun and cooled down quicker when I started driving. Cut it 1/2" wider than the opening in the headliner and it'll slide in and out easily. My AC works well enough now that I have no complaints with temps up into the high 90's.
 

BeauxXL1200

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I cut a piece of the 1/4" thick foil insulation you buy at Lowes to the size of the panoramic sunroof and slide it in place when the summer heat finally arrives. With the shade closed it can't be seen. This lowers the radiated temperature into the cab tremendously. I could tell that my cab didn't get as hot when parked in the sun and cooled down quicker when I started driving. Cut it 1/2" wider than the opening in the headliner and it'll slide in and out easily. My AC works well enough now that I have no complaints with temps up into the high 90's.
Sounds like a smart DYI move. I salute you, Sir.
 

Timeless

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I cut a piece of the 1/4" thick foil insulation you buy at Lowes to the size of the panoramic sunroof and slide it in place when the summer heat finally arrives. With the shade closed it can't be seen. This lowers the radiated temperature into the cab tremendously. I could tell that my cab didn't get as hot when parked in the sun and cooled down quicker when I started driving. Cut it 1/2" wider than the opening in the headliner and it'll slide in and out easily. My AC works well enough now that I have no complaints with temps up into the high 90's.

Curious if some additional tint would work as well or better....
 

securityguy

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Curious if some additional tint would work as well or better....
A good quality TINT will work great. However, with that being said, people that have tinted their sunroof have experienced roof explosion issues. But then again, some that haven't have experienced the same. Warranty will not cover it regardless but it would be an expensive repair as the roofs are not cheap to replace.
 

dts828

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First summer I will have my new 5th gen and looking to do this in near future as we get into hot temps in Atlanta. After reading many pages I have a couple questions. 1) Is one method favored or work better over the other.(clamp vs valve) 2) Do most close flow completely or keep it slightly open?
 

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