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Aftermarket Amp and 12” sub install in a HK LIMITED!

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stevo you are 100% correct. the anc is built into the amp which is controlled by the 4 microphones in the cabin. Now this is what i was alluding to in my previous post. the 8 wires (front right and left + and - along with rear right and left + and -) feeding the signa;l to the stock amp might not be high level. i planed on pulling the input wires from the stock amp this weekend and oscoping them to see what kind of signal is feeding the amp. an electrical engineer buddy of mine claims it is a low level 5vrms signal. he claims that the pac unit just piggy backs the low level signal output coming out of the radio at the radio harness then sends it to there dsp/eq unit. now if your just adding a sub i would say piggybacking to the amps input would work the best because ur by passing the anc only for the sub. the only problem with doing it for the whole system would be chimes, anc and other audio related functions the truck has that probably runs thu the canbus to the factory amp. hopefully the weather cooperates this weekend and i can test the amp inputs to see really what is going on in the signal path.,

See my post above, don’t bother wasting your time lol.
 
I hate to hijack this thread back but . . .

I’ve been racking my brain trying to find a spot for a subwoofer controller knob so it integrates into the dash but doesn’t damage anything major that I cannot restore to stock easily.

I have decided I will never use the 12 V power outlet at the top of the center stack near the dash by the ram logo.

I’ve visited the local dealer parts department and I ordered a new 12 V outlet cover to replace.

I will use the JL subwoofer control but the PAC one would work too.

I scotchbrighted off the lettering.

I’ll be fitting this square peg of a subwoofer controller in the round hole of the 12 volt outlet.

If anyone wants to order the 12 volt outlet cover it is part number 68349505AA. It was only around $7.

I haven’t had a chance to remove the two top screws n pull the center stack yet to see how much room I have for this and the PAC module.

What do you guys think?

D5AC3859-F5CF-43C4-B481-2DD3437C66E2.jpegCE2A45CF-D047-46BE-9ECC-B7F71AA60D56.jpegB4FA170C-AA93-41ED-A023-5CA2EA601D14.jpeg056957DE-3727-4C19-8720-E468EC1FA181.jpeg6EE972E9-23D3-4B75-B3D7-A8EC2E3A95D4.jpeg
 
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That's a good idea. I'm going to look around to see where I can put my Pac remote as well. I need to get these service issues taken care of first before I start installing other stuff just to make sure the dealer doesn't try to blame the issues on the audio system.
 
I received my PAC module.

Does anyone who used it have any advice on the dip switch setting?

Is it worth updating the software in it before install?
 
What dip switch settings worked best for others on here that have experience using the PAC?

Any other tips or tricks?

Did you mount it behind the 12” screen or just let it hang?
 
I'll check my dip switch settings in a bit, but I don't think I played with them at all. I put mine where the steering column is at, right above the pedals, out of the way of course, on my Hellcat. Haven't had time to install anything on the Ram due to issues.
 
I hate to hijack this thread back but . . .

I’ve been racking my brain trying to find a spot for a subwoofer controller knob so it integrates into the dash but doesn’t damage anything major that I cannot restore to stock easily.

I have decided I will never use the 12 V power outlet at the top of the center stack near the dash by the ram logo.

I’ve visited the local dealer parts department and I ordered a new 12 V outlet cover to replace.

I will use the JL subwoofer control but the PAC one would work too.

I scotchbrighted off the lettering.

I’ll be fitting this square peg of a subwoofer controller in the round hole of the 12 volt outlet.

If anyone wants to order the 12 volt outlet cover it is part number 68349505AA. It was only around $7.

I haven’t had a chance to remove the two top screws n pull the center stack yet to see how much room I have for this and the PAC module.

What do you guys think?

View attachment 12618View attachment 12619View attachment 12620View attachment 12621View attachment 12622
Seems like the most logical placement in the vehicle.
 
Sure! You can buy anything for the right price! Call them up High Fidelity Auto Sport of Newington CT, talk to the owner KANE 860-666-8080.

My box was intricate because that's a 12" sub and we needed .85 cubic feet. a 10" or 2 8" subs requires less airspace and doesn't need to go past the middle bracket like mine does.
Has anyone called and actually got a quote to have one built?
 
View attachment 12650View attachment 12651View attachment 12652We absolutely have to fit square pegs in round holes sometime.

Just a little dremel work. It can be done!

In my last couple, I actually mounted it to the center console on the outside pointing up. Dropped the wire straight down between the seat and console. Very easy access (right by your leg) and no modification to any parts or having to run wires behind dash. I was always adjusting it depending on the music. Very handy having it right there.
 
Do you think there is enough room for the 13TW5v2 under the seat? I've been an audiophile for quite a few years and had my F-150 done, and when I traded it in, I took the sub out and the VX600/1i I had powering it. I left the Audison DSP and the amp that ran all the mids/tweets. (Dodge dealer wouldn't give me what I wanted for trade without a working stereo. It is what it is.)

After the amp flash to the RAM, the truck is in desperate need of low end. Actually, I think the sub sounds beyond terrible. Mid-bass is overbearing in some instances, and then it lacks any sort of full, robust low end. I have left over gear, and I just wondered if you thought the 13" will fit under the seat without sticking out?
 
Do you think there is enough room for the 13TW5v2 under the seat? I've been an audiophile for quite a few years and had my F-150 done, and when I traded it in, I took the sub out and the VX600/1i I had powering it. I left the Audison DSP and the amp that ran all the mids/tweets. (Dodge dealer wouldn't give me what I wanted for trade without a working stereo. It is what it is.)

After the amp flash to the RAM, the truck is in desperate need of low end. Actually, I think the sub sounds beyond terrible. Mid-bass is overbearing in some instances, and then it lacks any sort of full, robust low end. I have left over gear, and I just wondered if you thought the 13" will fit under the seat without sticking out?
I am Looking forward to the responses you get with your question as I've been planning on installing the same sub/amp only the 12' version. Your description of the lack of low end the stock system produces is so accurate.
 
Look at the first page of this thread !

13tw5 required only .8 cubic feet. The box I had done speced out at .85 and I used a jl 12 so only the opening has to be made an inch bigger for your 13”

Call up Kane’s shop! I highly suggest you get a sub box made for that truck and sub if you have the means
 
Look at the first page of this thread !

13tw5 required only .8 cubic feet. The box I had done speced out at .85 and I used a jl 12 so only the opening has to be made an inch bigger for your 13”

Call up Kane’s shop! I highly suggest you get a sub box made for that truck and sub if you have the means

Unfortunately I live in Alaska, shipping a box isn't an option.
 
I'd be happy with just removing the HK sub and having a JL Audio 10" in there. To me, 10" is perfect for the music I listen too. But this would require a box, amp, pac, and god knows what else. Wish JL made a stealthbox for this year truck
 
I'd be happy with just removing the HK sub and having a JL Audio 10" in there. To me, 10" is perfect for the music I listen too. But this would require a box, amp, pac, and god knows what else. Wish JL made a stealthbox for this year truck

I’ve heard it’s coming, but you still need everything listed lol
 

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