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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

Moparian

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I have no issues using the etorque grounding stud under the rear seat. It is already clean and ready to use....sorry but if its good enough ground for a 48v electical battery system then its more than sufficient for a 12v sound system. Most issues on this truck stem from the ANC system which is easily bypassed on trucks so equipped or the factory wiring being out of phase from the factory.
 

Finn5033

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Does anyone know if the speaker adapters for our trucks are the same as the 4th gen trucks? I have replacement speakers for the base 6 speaker system that I had installed in my 4th gen. I took the speakers out and kept them when I traded in the truck. I have the kicker 3.5” that I’m thinking about throwing in and trying In the dash. I actually didn’t like them in the 4th gen, so I’m not sure if it will be different in this one.
 

Shives

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How about a factory ground location? Although there have been reports of those being suspect, as in being painted before assembly and lack of paint cutting washers
To be clear, from MECP it’s self... when adding a ground for accessories, you must make a new one. Drivers kick is the best spot, but we all know that’s not possible for amps... So making a ground from the body/frame itself. Without attaching to any existing, or seat rails anything of the such. Make a new spot clean and clear. I don’t know about this extra ground that’s not used for the eco... but maybe that would work if it’s an open lug. I would still clean it out first, and have bare metal showing. Again, this is what’s supposed to happen.
 

RamminlikeAhemi

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What's the best way to get 4gauge wire to the battery, I found the grommet with the nipple to feed it through on the firewall but having a hard time. Cut the end off and feed it through with a coat hangar?
 

Shives

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How we used to do it.. uni bit. Coat hanger. Cut 4awg at angel an tape the right way. Line n pull. Sound easy then it is. Carful.
 

Moparian

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What's the best way to get 4gauge wire to the battery, I found the grommet with the nipple to feed it through on the firewall but having a hard time. Cut the end off and feed it through with a coat hangar?
Thats how i did it, its in a tough spot to try and open up. Do the best you can to widen that hole from the nipple as much as possble. Another trick is to wipe a little bit of dawn along the first 12" or so of the wire so it slides easily through until you have enough inside to pull the rest.
 

Shawn19

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I found it was easier to push out from the inside. The rubber won’t fold going out ward.


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breynolds

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I'm gonna pay someone to do mine. It is not like the old days. So far all I have done is replace the dash speakers.
Yeah I used to swap out and do stereos in all my vehicles growing up. I hate dealing with all the added electronics nowadays
 

pmegason

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Here are pics of where I had them mount the Kicker Hideaway 10. It's not a box just made for our trucks, just 1 that I liked that would fit and not take up the whole back seat. I ordered an ANC bypass harness (iDatalink bCH3) from Crutchfield. I will let you know if it fixes the issue.
I added the ANC bypass and nothing changed. Decided to check the polarity and that was the issue. Box works great now. Not sure if I needed the bypass or not. I will take it out and hook up ANC back up this weekend to see if it makes a difference.
 

Wsmith

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I added the ANC bypass and nothing changed. Decided to check the polarity and that was the issue. Box works great now. Not sure if I needed the bypass or not. I will take it out and hook up ANC back up this weekend to see if it makes a difference.
Now that it's working, what is your evaluation of how well it performs. Does it add some good depth to the system. I know its not going to bone rattling base, what do you think.
 

pmegason

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Now that it's working, what is your evaluation of how well it performs. Does it add some good depth to the system. I know its not going to bone rattling base, what do you think.
It actually sounds really good. I still need to play with it some and get it dialed in a little better. you can definitely feel it in the seats and it rattles all the crap i have in my console. Much better than what the factory doors put out for sure.
 

5thGenRebel_AMK

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Does anyone know if the speaker adapters for our trucks are the same as the 4th gen trucks? I have replacement speakers for the base 6 speaker system that I had installed in my 4th gen. I took the speakers out and kept them when I traded in the truck. I have the kicker 3.5” that I’m thinking about throwing in and trying In the dash. I actually didn’t like them in the 4th gen, so I’m not sure if it will be different in this one.

Yup you should be fine, I had the full “mopar kicker upgrade” speakers in my 4th gen, I installed them right away in my 5th gen before replacing them with infinity. IMO they sounded better in my 4th gen for some reason... but it was an improvement over stock


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RamminlikeAhemi

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Thats how i did it, its in a tough spot to try and open up. Do the best you can to widen that hole from the nipple as much as possble. Another trick is to wipe a little bit of dawn along the first 12" or so of the wire so it slides easily through until you have enough inside to pull the rest.

you got 4gauge through??? Ive been fighting with it for two days getting frustrated.
 

Shives

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It’s not that bad... for hanger, try to pop a little hole first if you need with a uni bit. Soap, 3m supper 33 tape, cut wire at angel and tape, first tape around the coat hanger, then rest tape on hanger and start to roll tape over wire! This way it attaches to the hanger and wire strong. Add more soap and pull.
 

sppb32

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Ok, so I think I figured out a system that should work, any input would be excellent.

2x pairs of Infinity Ref 9633ix 6x9 3 ways for all four doors: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ACxk7oGbWKM/p_108R9633IX/Infinity-Reference-REF-9633ix.html

1x Pioneer TS-D10LS2 10" sub: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSD10L2/Pioneer-TS-D10LS2.html?tp=68872

1x SoundStream Picasso Nano PN5.640D 5 Channel amp to power it all: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_530PN5640D/Soundstream-Picasso-Nano-PN5-640D.html?tp=35808

1x PAC ANC-CH01 to route off of factory wiring and bypass ANC.

Obviously it will all need hooked up and a box made for the sub (sealed would be my preference). But does that all make sense?
If you don't mind spending a little more cash this one is a much better choice
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SOUNDS...802289&hash=item23c3893c71:g:QWkAAOSwvzRXx9cz
 

sppb32

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Bingo! That’s exactly how I did it, now there will be some purists who believe you need all new home runs to each speaker from the amps but that’s a LOT of work and I don’t see the need for that level of wiring. The factory I infrastructure handles the power well.
It's actually very easy to run new wires to the doors and dash, there's plenty of room in the boot to run 2 sets of 14 gauge wire, and you don't have to mess with the stock wiring harness.
 

sppb32

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Thats how i did it, its in a tough spot to try and open up. Do the best you can to widen that hole from the nipple as much as possble. Another trick is to wipe a little bit of dawn along the first 12" or so of the wire so it slides easily through until you have enough inside to pull the rest.
Well i was able to fit 1/0 gauge no problem
 

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