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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

brian42

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Same here. I saw where Rs99tx installed it behind the rear bench on the driver's side (he obviously does not have the eTorque) in post #1425 on page 72 of this thread.

My biggest concern with that is what the box actually mounts to. The last thing I want to do is put one of the sheet metal mounting screws through the back of the cab.
 

RichInMN

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@brian42

There are metal standoffs (red) on the back of the cab - they are about 3/4" forward from the actual cab wall, plenty of space to run a screw through - this is what I used for a mount. I've also seen folks run brackets down from the car seat strap bolts or the seat mounting bolts (yellow).
 

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sppb32

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As a car audio enthusiast i replaced most speakers on my 2020 Laramie with the Alpine system, PAC AP4-CH41, Custom box with 12" Sundown Audio SD-4 12d2 under the back seat powered by a Polk Audio PAD1000.1, JBL GTO3.5 on the dash. Diamond Audio 6x9 components on the front doors powered by a Polk Audio PAD 4000.4, JBL Power series 6x8 i had laying around, with adapters still on the stock amplifier, since a wiring harness still not available i run all new wires for the doors and dash, very easy.
very pleased with the sound quality but i might integrate a DSP in there. 20200715_174311.jpg 20200627_130240.jpg 20200711_142653.jpg 20200711_104615.jpg 20200712_093911.jpg 20200712_094547.jpg
 

breynolds

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Welp I've read about 30 pages on here and came to the conclusion doing a stereo in my 19 is out of the question. My brain hurts thinking about all these electronics
 

Wsmith

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Welp I've read about 30 pages on here and came to the conclusion doing a stereo in my 19 is out of the question. My brain hurts thinking about all these electronics
I'm gonna pay someone to do mine. It is not like the old days. So far all I have done is replace the dash speakers.
 

pmegason

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I just had the Kicker Hideaway 10 installed at a reputable shop and they can't seem to get it to work. He blames it on the box. They tapped into the high side somewhere thinking he bypassed the ANC.. It's not the Kicker. They sent me a replacment and it does the same as the first 1. Barely anything comes out of it unless all dials are cranked to the fullest. I'm wondering if I get that bypass harness that i've seen people on here talk about, if that would make it work right.
 

RichInMN

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I just had the Kicker Hideaway 10 installed at a reputable shop and they can't seem to get it to work. He blames it on the box. They tapped into the high side somewhere thinking he bypassed the ANC.. It's not the Kicker. They sent me a replacment and it does the same as the first 1. Barely anything comes out of it unless all dials are cranked to the fullest. I'm wondering if I get that bypass harness that i've seen people on here talk about, if that would make it work right.
First thing that comes to mind... on a dual voice sub, if one voice is out of phase with the other, you'll get almost no output (i.e. switch the +/- high-level inputs on one channel only to test that theory). But I would think they've tried that.
 

Shawn19

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Yeah...reversing the polarity on my sub made it work.

Also...did they bypass the ANC (not just go before)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Shives

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I just had the Kicker Hideaway 10 installed at a reputable shop and they can't seem to get it to work. He blames it on the box. They tapped into the high side somewhere thinking he bypassed the ANC.. It's not the Kicker. They sent me a replacment and it does the same as the first 1. Barely anything comes out of it unless all dials are cranked to the fullest. I'm wondering if I get that bypass harness that i've seen people on here talk about, if that would make it work right.
Kicker hide away 10? What unit is this? Is this for our trucks or something you fit in?
 

Scram1500

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Welp I've read about 30 pages on here and came to the conclusion doing a stereo in my 19 is out of the question. My brain hurts thinking about all these electronics
I was thinking the same thing, but I bought a couple different ANC harnesses anyway to see what's what. It's actually easier now as the head unit can remain in place. All the speaker wiring is under the seat. I used the iDatalink-bCH3 harness and it completely bypasses the ANC module. The module will eventually be removed as it's a great spot for an amp


ANC1.jpg
ANC2.jpg
ANC3.jpg
 

pmegason

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Kicker hide away 10? What unit is this? Is this for our trucks or something you fit in?
Here are pics of where I had them mount the Kicker Hideaway 10. It's not a box just made for our trucks, just 1 that I liked that would fit and not take up the whole back seat. I ordered an ANC bypass harness (iDatalink bCH3) from Crutchfield. I will let you know if it fixes the issue.
 

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Shives

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Here are pics of where I had them mount the Kicker Hideaway 10. It's not a box just made for our trucks, just 1 that I liked that would fit and not take up the whole back seat. I ordered an ANC bypass harness (iDatalink bCH3) from Crutchfield. I will let you know if it fixes the issue.
I’ve been doing car audio for a very long time, PLEASE re-do that ground today! I know you’ll hate to hear this, seat post are the absolute worst to ground to. Drill a hole, scrape the paint away!!!!! Star washer if you need to, and silicone. (Prevents water) I used to uses GM battery posts as my ground, and attach to that.
Bottom line 95% of all audio issues, THE GROUND WIRE!!!
I have not read your post, don’t know your problem, but.... Start with that. I can’t stress this enough.
If your close, I’m happy to help.
 

pmegason

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Thanks. I will fix the ground this weekend. Thats the way the guy at the audio shop did it. I actually only plugged it in for the pics. Since it doesn't want to seem to work without the bypass harness I have kept it unplugged until the harness comes in.
 

Shives

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Thanks. I will fix the ground this weekend. Thats the way the guy at the audio shop did it. I actually only plugged it in for the pics. Since it doesn't want to seem to work without the bypass harness I have kept it unplugged until the harness comes in.
I would take it back and say what the **** did I pay for. MECP will fail your *** for this! Heck Best Buy should know better too. Sorry for the lack luster install. Should be easy to get high level and get it working. My guess again, install.
 

ramButz

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I would take it back and say what the **** did I pay for. MECP will fail your *** for this! Heck Best Buy should know better too. Sorry for the lack luster install. Should be easy to get high level and get it working. My guess again, install.

something doesnt "Sound"right(sorry play on words).im alot older than most here.i did my "old school".the only problem i had was and "Adapter"plug.its why we went that direction.never fails.your right those installers are "MECP"certified.so if and old 60something guy like me can do it....

 

ramButz

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this is simple and gets the job done.its how we use to do it "Back in the day".used a wire wheel on my dremel.clean off the paint on the bracket frame on the rear seats and bolt it down.not saying it will work for you,but its the bet ground i found(old school)

 

Shives

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No using anything but the solid gram of the vehicle. You CAN NOT use any metal that’s attached to the frame! This creates a ground loop! So, bare metal, to the dead solid frame! Yes, scrape away the paint. Again, if you want to do it right. If folks take short cuts then the sound may suffer.
Again, I don’t understand why so many are having issues with high level inputs.. This is simple, and it’s been done quiet a few times with examples up on the boards. Sorry to hear your all having those issues, but again... this can be done without going into doors and more. Unless your upgrading the wires to your door, of course! Then... have fun with those door boots. They suck. Lol.
Good luck all.
 

Scram1500

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No using anything but the solid gram of the vehicle. You CAN NOT use any metal that’s attached to the frame! This creates a ground loop! So, bare metal, to the dead solid frame! Yes, scrape away the paint. Again, if you want to do it right. If folks take short cuts then the sound may suffer.
Again, I don’t understand why so many are having issues with high level inputs.. This is simple, and it’s been done quiet a few times with examples up on the boards. Sorry to hear your all having those issues, but again... this can be done without going into doors and more. Unless your upgrading the wires to your door, of course! Then... have fun with those door boots. They suck. Lol.
Good luck all.
How about a factory ground location? Although there have been reports of those being suspect, as in being painted before assembly and lack of paint cutting washers
 

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