Yes you can use 6.5" speakers for the doors, you will just need to buy adapters or make your own, some even have them ready for the tweeters. For integration I used the rockford fosgate dsr1 because it gives you 4 pairs of rca pre outs; Front, rear, sub and spare.
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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?
- Thread starter WRH
- Start date
Yes you can use 6.5" speakers for the doors, you will just need to buy adapters or make your own, some even have them ready for the tweeters. For integration I used the rockford fosgate dsr1 because it gives you 4 pairs of rca pre outs; Front, rear, sub and spare.
RichInMN
Active Member
If you're going to go that route and are at all handy, it's pretty easy to up-size from 6x9 to 8" round.
"There's no replacement for displacement" -Rich
Ellisstrong
Spends too much time on here
PAC Amppro, subs and amp was all I needed. And the wiring for the subs and amp of course.
Ditto. This is the best option. The Amppro is worth the extra money to do it right and allows you to expand your system later if you choose to. It integrates into the factory system and gives you a clean signal.
Sweet thanks for the info....I am glad I am not going to have to bypass the ANC or make mods to factory system.
dirtbike dude
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First timer here. I rarely post but often read the forums. I have a 2019 1500 classic 5.7 with 5" head unit and 6 speakers and decided to change out the 15 w stock speakers (junk). For the dash I used Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX 3-1/2" 2-way Speakers they have the base block already installed with the Metra 72-7902 harness. For all 4 doors I used Pioneer TS-A6960F 6"x9" 4-Way Coaxial Speakers with the Metra 72-6514 harness. Now a big thank you to all of you that posted about the polarity issues with the Ram. I thought I was hallucinating when the speakers would loose amplification because in a few moments it would correct it's self and it would be fine. I took the advice I read on this forum and decided to check the polarity as was suggested with a volt meter at the speaker. My results were this: Dash driver side, passenger side both doors had proper polarity. (+ value). Dash passenger side and driver side both doors had reverse polarity (- value). Once I swapped the wires in the harness for the speakers with the reverse polarity, all speakers tested positive. My problem was solved. No more "drowning" as one person put it.
I really like the Infinity speakers even though they are a bit pricey compared to JBL and Kicker but hell I drive a lot and the speakers hit the highs that I need and the built in base blocker protects them. I went with the 4 way for the doors and couldn't be happier. Plenty of base and the mid tones that go there help even out the over all sound. I'm no audiophile but for $160 bucks total, I'm happy. Thanks again for the forum and everyone's input. I was able to solve my problem with your help.
Dirtbike dude
I really like the Infinity speakers even though they are a bit pricey compared to JBL and Kicker but hell I drive a lot and the speakers hit the highs that I need and the built in base blocker protects them. I went with the 4 way for the doors and couldn't be happier. Plenty of base and the mid tones that go there help even out the over all sound. I'm no audiophile but for $160 bucks total, I'm happy. Thanks again for the forum and everyone's input. I was able to solve my problem with your help.
Dirtbike dude
Figured I would post my results based on this helpful thread. I was not happy with the 5inch/6 speaker setup and my passenger door speaker started to pop so did an upgrade.
My install was similar to waterfowler41, go watch his youtube video, it is very helpful.
Build list is following:
dash speakers: Reference REF-3032CFX 3 1/2 inch 2 ways
doors: Reference REF-9632IX 6x9 inch 2 ways
amp: Infinity Reference 7005A 4+1 channel
sub: Infinity 1000s shallow mount 10inch select-able 2 or 4 amp
misc: Pac ANC-CH01 harness, custom built sub enclosure and build-in storage bins
KnuKonceptz wire power, ground and speaker wire, fuse block and terminal ends.
The amp I have did not need a high level to low line converter as it was built into the amp to receive high as an option.
So no LNC51 needed like waterfowler41.
The 6x9 inch speakers fit in the front door and I wire tied the harness to the side of the speaker to keep it out of the way of the window.
I went with 2 ways because the old door speakers where component and I did not think adding even more treble than what a 2 way added was necessary.
I was happy with just the speaker change as there was not overwhelming treble as some have experienced. I had plenty of low end once i adjusted equalizer and faded the balance to the rear a bit.
But speaker volume was limited before it distorts. If you are ok with limited volume just the speaker upgrade would work. I had no issues with the noise cancellation system.
I then added the amp and subwoofer.
I was able to achieve much higher volumes without distortion and can expect less lows from the 6 speakers with the sub.
Sound is very good and adjustable through the amp or head unit equalizer to my taste.
I could not tell a noise cancellation difference after splicing into the speaker wires with the ANC-CH01 harness.
There is a ground stud behind the drivers side rear passenger seat in the floor that works great for the amp ground. I think it was for the battery boost system I do not have.
I was also not convinced I had enough room or ventilation for installing the amp or subwoofer behind the seats so i built the enclosure under the rear seats.
Hope this helps everyone, this is a good thread to reference.
My install was similar to waterfowler41, go watch his youtube video, it is very helpful.
Build list is following:
dash speakers: Reference REF-3032CFX 3 1/2 inch 2 ways
doors: Reference REF-9632IX 6x9 inch 2 ways
amp: Infinity Reference 7005A 4+1 channel
sub: Infinity 1000s shallow mount 10inch select-able 2 or 4 amp
misc: Pac ANC-CH01 harness, custom built sub enclosure and build-in storage bins
KnuKonceptz wire power, ground and speaker wire, fuse block and terminal ends.
The amp I have did not need a high level to low line converter as it was built into the amp to receive high as an option.
So no LNC51 needed like waterfowler41.
The 6x9 inch speakers fit in the front door and I wire tied the harness to the side of the speaker to keep it out of the way of the window.
I went with 2 ways because the old door speakers where component and I did not think adding even more treble than what a 2 way added was necessary.
I was happy with just the speaker change as there was not overwhelming treble as some have experienced. I had plenty of low end once i adjusted equalizer and faded the balance to the rear a bit.
But speaker volume was limited before it distorts. If you are ok with limited volume just the speaker upgrade would work. I had no issues with the noise cancellation system.
I then added the amp and subwoofer.
I was able to achieve much higher volumes without distortion and can expect less lows from the 6 speakers with the sub.
Sound is very good and adjustable through the amp or head unit equalizer to my taste.
I could not tell a noise cancellation difference after splicing into the speaker wires with the ANC-CH01 harness.
There is a ground stud behind the drivers side rear passenger seat in the floor that works great for the amp ground. I think it was for the battery boost system I do not have.
I was also not convinced I had enough room or ventilation for installing the amp or subwoofer behind the seats so i built the enclosure under the rear seats.
Hope this helps everyone, this is a good thread to reference.
Installed the Kicker dash speakers in my Alpine system and wow is right, it made a huge difference in the overall sound. Seems like most people stick with just changing those out, but what would be the next best bang for your buck speaker change?
sppb32
Well-Known Member
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If you are not adding an amplifier i doubt you are going to find any door speakers as efficient as the ones on the alpine system, I had them playing 10hz on the bench, impressive for 6x9.
Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk
Appreciate it, i will be leaving it as is then.
pmegason
Active Member
So I have been reading all of these threads and I'm trying to figure out what speakers are the best ones to simply plug and play for the dash. Just the 8" 6 speaker system. Already bypassed the ANC for my Kicker sub box.
Thanks
Thanks
I'm just going to add from my experience, do not get the Infinity ref 3032cfx for the dash or Infinity ref 9633ix for the doors. Especially if you do plan to try to run them off an aftermarket amp. They did not handle much power.
Ryncody
Active Member
I ended up getting kicker 47 3.5" dash, theyre 4 ohm, and they definitely overpower front doors. They came with kicker crossovers which 8 hoped would block more bass, but do not. I did do a sub install as well, I went with the DD 6.75" sub in theyre pre-made down fire box , Ill add pics soon, man the box fits perfectly under rear seat. Doesn't lay over ram mud mats or the floor storage. The sound is as good as my old pair of 10s.im using my old school punch 100 amp, but I want to add a 5 ch amp, and go ahead n do the doors too, I bought the $30 harness kit to bypass the anc and tap into the door wires before amp. Way better than $280.
From having the Kicker 4 ohm dash speakers in for about a week now I can say that they do overpower the other speakers even after adjusting the equalizer and fade to the rear. I am debating the 5 channel amp and new front and rear speakers, but is there another route others have gone?
Wsmith
Well-Known Member
I put in Faitalpro's 8ohm with the 600hz blockers from Crutchfield. They deliver a smooth sound. Before I installed the blockers they pulled some mid-bass from the door speakers, after the blockers I got the mid-bass in the doors back. I am very happy with the Failalpro dash speakers, they are full range and don't have the tweeters in them. I do not care for tweeters in the dash can be overbearing on my ears.
RichInMN
Active Member
The original power balance with factory speakers is that the door speakers receive 80% of the power and the dash speakers receive 20%.
By replacing the dash speakers with 4 ohm kickers that balance goes to 66% / 33%, over a 50% increase in power to the dash, and more efficient speakers to boot.
An amp & DSP will give you all the control you need , I highly recommend going that route.
brian42
Ram Guru
I did the same and am very happy with the result. The speakers come in a couple of different resistances. I used the faitalPRO 3FE22 8-ohm speakers that Wsmith used since I wanted to keep with the same resistance as the factory dash speaker for my base 6 speaker system.
They do not have a built-in bass blocker (filter, bypass, etc.) like others so you will need to install one. Most of us have gone the Crutchfield route for that with the 007BB600 (300 Hz @ 8 ohms) and the Metra 72-7902 harness.
If you get the Metra harnesses make sure you check the connector. Mine came wired backwards for my needs and had to swap pins to fix it.
Any recommendations on amp to go with? Sorry im a noob at thisThe original power balance with factory speakers is that the door speakers receive 80% of the power and the dash speakers receive 20%.
By replacing the dash speakers with 4 ohm kickers that balance goes to 66% / 33%, over a 50% increase in power to the dash, and more efficient speakers to boot.
An amp & DSP will give you all the control you need , I highly recommend going that route.
