I have the 2020 Ram Rebel V6 eTorque Rebel. I’be replaced the 6 speakers, infinity for the 3.5” and the infinity 3 way for the rear doors, then mid’s in the front doors anticipating that I’ll be adding an amp and sub.
Now I’m researching and my plan was to use the Fosgate DSR1,with my vehicle specific T harness, but I’ve just learned I don’t have the ANC in my truck?
Is there anything I can use that is similar where it’s just plug and play? I really want to avoid splicing into factory harness if possible and now I’m back to square one with my planning.
Thanks!
Great question! I would do a search and see if anyone has made a comment about this yet. Also, being I have the 5.7 and the ANC we have the units under the drivers seat. Do you have any harness or anything under the seat? Push your seat all the way up, and look around the vent area, move the carpet and look for some plugs. Take photos and post.
Other wise, you can get the speaker wires from a few places. I would recommend the front speakers! Not the rear. Grab them behind the deck with a LOC, or each kick panel. You can splice on-top of the wore without cutting it. Take off the shielding with wire strippers and a razor blade. Carful not to cut the copper. Just the shield. So, take wire strippers and make to small cuts 1 inch apart. (All you’ll do is find the right opening on your strippers and cut around insulation) once you made your two cuts, take the razor and slice down, to unwrap. Take a pick or something to split the copper on two... I call this splitting the legs! Take your LOC wire strip back about 1.5 inches. Wrap between the speaker wire, and wrap around. Then solder and tape. If you wrap right, you don’t really need solder)
anyways, do this four times, and then hook up your RCA.
With the non-amp system you can’t really use the items for an amped system. Most after market amps will take high level.
Another area I see people failing it matching the subs impedance to the amp correctly. Make sure you match your voice coils to the amp!
If your amp is not 1 ohm stable.. you can’t wire 2 4ohm dual voice in Parallel. A single dual 2 would be 2, 2 plus 2 in parallel would be 1 ohm. I also find running subs in series sounds like **** to me. So, match your subs.
Find a good amp that’s 1 ohm stable with a bunch of power, that has enough for your needs at 2 ohms if your doing that setup. In other words... leave over head room.
I added the factory HK subwoofer to the non-amp system... sub was 5.5 ohms. It wants to see 206 or 203 watts. RMS. (From what I was told) I picked the Kicker Cxi800.1 why?
Look at the power.
| MODEL |
| CXA800.1 |
| Power (watts/ch) 4 Ohm |
| 300x1 |
| Power (watts/ch) 2 Ohm |
| 600x1 |
| Power (watts/ch) 1 Ohm |
| 800x1 |
So roughly at 5.5 ohm I’m getting right around what the sub wants to perform. And by all means it performs just well with the mods I made to the box. Now, if I ever want to try anything else... I have an amp that’s 1 ohm... and 800 watts rms. Actually it’s quiet a bit more with the power spec sheet they sent. So, I would have the ability to run two subs around 400 watts ea. With the right coil setup. This gives me a good amount of options for subs to run! Remember, we are a truck, and are not running for SQ or DBL at USCA or IASCA. Lol. Well, maybe you might.
Also, remote gain or remote bass knob or module... Very important. Know our trucks don’t have a perfect sound, nor does every song. Sometimes we need a small adjustment. So, this makes that situation very easy! Make sure you get one.
hope this did not kill anyone’s morning! Please let me know about that E torque. Jimmy07 is a great source of knowledge as well.
