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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

traymo

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Does this bypass the ANC? Can you hook up this unit without changing speakers?
Man, I would be all over it if it fixed the volume issue with Sirius radio. I order the 2ohm front speakers that were recommended on the "stock 6 speaker upgrade" thread. If that doesn't help, I will have to try the AP4-CH41.
 

Wsmith

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Man, I would be all over it if it fixed the volume issue with Sirius radio. I order the 2ohm front speakers that were recommended on the "stock 6 speaker upgrade" thread. If that doesn't help, I will have to try the AP4-CH41.
if you have the 6 speaker system you need 8ohm. 2 ohm for the higher systems. If not I screwed up. Many were chiming in on that thread with the 9 speaker or HK systems, you really had to pay attention to not get confused, I put in 8 ohm, I am not at home, but I am confident that the factory ones said 8 ohm, now i'm second guessing myself.
 

traymo

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if you have the 6 speaker system you need 8ohm. 2 ohm for the higher systems. If not I screwed up. Many were chiming in on that thread with the 9 speaker or HK systems, you really had to pay attention to not get confused, I put in 8 ohm, I am not at home, but I am confident that the factory ones said 8 ohm, now i'm second guessing myself.
My bad, you are right. I was thinking of replacing the rear door speakers, and those are 2ohms. I did order the 8ohms for the front.
 

Jarodm06

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Does anyone know or have schematics or pictures showing where the dash speakers tie in to the front speaker circuit after the signal leaves the ANC module? It appears there are 2 wires (positive and negative) for each left and right front channels but at some point I would think they split to go to the door and dash. I am trying to find where that split occurs. I am thinking of adding a component set to the front doors and putting the tweeter in the dash speaker location but I need to wire each speaker individually to the crossover. I am trying to avoid running all new wires.
 

Ryncody

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2019 ram night edition big horn . I have the 6 speaker system with 8" radio. I've been reading all the post. I want better sound. I'm going to upgrade speakers 1st, and maybe in future add 5 ch amp and sub. For now just speakers. Can someone give me some matching recommendations. Ohms, 6x9 ,5.25" for doors? I don't want to spend 500 on just speakers. Sizes, watts and ohms for dash n doors
 

Shives

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Does anyone know or have schematics or pictures showing where the dash speakers tie in to the front speaker circuit after the signal leaves the ANC module? It appears there are 2 wires (positive and negative) for each left and right front channels but at some point I would think they split to go to the door and dash. I am trying to find where that split occurs. I am thinking of adding a component set to the front doors and putting the tweeter in the dash speaker location but I need to wire each speaker individually to the crossover. I am trying to avoid running all new wires.
I’ve seen them posted on the forums here, do a search, might get lucky. I stumbled upon I long ago, and don’t remember what post. It was one of the audio upgrade ones. Sorry.
 

805myth1

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2019 ram night edition big horn . I have the 6 speaker system with 8" radio. I've been reading all the post. I want better sound. I'm going to upgrade speakers 1st, and maybe in future add 5 ch amp and sub. For now just speakers. Can someone give me some matching recommendations. Ohms, 6x9 ,5.25" for doors? I don't want to spend 500 on just speakers. Sizes, watts and ohms for dash n doors

If you are going to amplify the speakers then is doesn't matter what people recommend. But you should research which 5 ch amp you want then see what the power specs are and go based off that. Because if you get 8 ohm speakers just to match the ohms of the stocks then the power output on your future 5ch amp will be lower than for 4 or 2 ohms.
 

Ryncody

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Well id rather just get matching ohm/ watts for stock. If I add an amp, I'll swap speakers again, as I'll probably do component sets if I add an amp. So for now I need ohms n watts for doors and sizes. 5.25, 6x9s?.
 

Moparian

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Well id rather just get matching ohm/ watts for stock. If I add an amp, I'll swap speakers again, as I'll probably do component sets if I add an amp. So for now I need ohms n watts for doors and sizes. 5.25, 6x9s?.
2x 3.5" in the dash 8ohm
4x 6x9" in the doors(not 100% sure on the ohms for those). Keep in mind that your 6x9's needs to be relatively shallow in order to clear the window track.
 

Ryncody

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2x 3.5" in the dash 8ohm
4x 6x9" in the doors(not 100% sure on the ohms for those). Keep in mind that your 6x9's needs to be relatively shallow in order to clear the window track.
I read i should use 4ohm on dash so they was louder. or that may been just the dash at 4ohms and leave the rest stock. that if i added doors, it wouldnt sound good unless i had an amp.
i was thinking the jl 6x9s in doors, but then i read a post that said 4ohm dash, 8ohm front door and 4 ohm back door. i myself was wondering if i could use a mid bass woofer in back doors, like a 6", and 6x9 in front. also if i do dash, should they be bullet tweeters , full range, or ??
 

Moparian

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also crutchfeild recommended 4ohm infinity dash speakers
I have the infinity's in my dash and they sound great. I also bought some CDT CL69s for the front door but havent installed them yet. Honestly the biggest difference came from adding subs at least in my case.
 

Wsmith

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I read i should use 4ohm on dash so they was louder. or that may been just the dash at 4ohms and leave the rest stock. that if i added doors, it wouldnt sound good unless i had an amp.
i was thinking the jl 6x9s in doors, but then i read a post that said 4ohm dash, 8ohm front door and 4 ohm back door. i myself was wondering if i could use a mid bass woofer in back doors, like a 6", and 6x9 in front. also if i do dash, should they be bullet tweeters , full range, or ??
I put 8 ohm Faitalpro's in the dash they sound great. I do need to put bass blocker's in however. At high volumes they become a little over worked. I think 4 ohm would definitely need blockers, might be a little overbearing. I am by no means a stereo expert.
 

Moparian

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I put 8 ohm Faitalpro's in the dash they sound great. I do need to put bass blocker's in however. At high volumes they become a little over worked. I think 4 ohm would definitely need blockers, might be a little overbearing. I am by no means a stereo expert.
The Infinity's come with bass blockers already installed. They work great in the base system(as well as the Alpine and HK)
 

dtlrshp

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Does anyone know or have schematics or pictures showing where the dash speakers tie in to the front speaker circuit after the signal leaves the ANC module? It appears there are 2 wires (positive and negative) for each left and right front channels but at some point I would think they split to go to the door and dash. I am trying to find where that split occurs. I am thinking of adding a component set to the front doors and putting the tweeter in the dash speaker location but I need to wire each speaker individually to the crossover. I am trying to avoid running all new wires.

Run new speaker wires to your dash, access is very easy once you pop the side panel off. Then tap into the door speaker at the stock amp to utilize the stock wiring for the door speaker.
 

805myth1

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Well id rather just get matching ohm/ watts for stock. If I add an amp, I'll swap speakers again, as I'll probably do component sets if I add an amp. So for now I need ohms n watts for doors and sizes. 5.25, 6x9s?.

To me that's a waste of time and money, but not mine lol. I would just rather install one time rather than multiple times
 

sppb32

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It's allot easier than people think ruinng new wires to the doors and dash, it took me 1 hour to run all new wires to the amp in the back on mine all you need is a piece on tie wire to use as a snake plenty of room in the door boots for 2 runs of 14 gauge wire, don't bother chasing factory wires It's a waste of time, do it right, do it once.

Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk
 

Shives

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I’m going to try and put the HK factory sub in the 6 speaker non-amp system. Using a Kicker Cx800.1 (roughly 250w at 5 ohm) and will be a good amp if I switch the sub out for something different.
I’m going to use one the the ANC bypass harness to grab the High-level... An I’ll be using the high level in on the amp. Getting switched is easy enough, you can grab from the ANC if wished.
I’m going to remove the ANC and mount the amp in it’s place. Run 4 AWG to the amp itself.

This will allow me to upgrade in the future for a different sub. I would have just made a box, but I no longer have a table saw (sad face)

couple things....1. With AlfaOBD you can turn off the speaker circuit protection (if it sees a short, or open) this may bypass some issues folks are having hooking up. Just a thought.

The HK sub is a crazy looking passive radiator/inverted sub! Yes, it may be the best for the box! Yes, it might be limited space! But, what I’ve learned in my 20 years of this stuff.... Factory amps can suck! Tho some a great!
My thoughts are (hopfully) that I’ll be able to tune the box a bit more, play with x over points a little bit, no gain some control over it for decent sound.
I’m board! I don’t want to spend 1000 on a sub box! 147 was low enough to experiment. I’ve also found the a Pioneer shallow mount will fit in the factory sub box, with little modifications to the box, as well a 1.25 speaker ring to set it up a bit (from calculations) BUT the inside of the stock sub box will have to be cut out a bit (has these plastic tab lines all over. They will need to go to fit any other sub. Also, Polly fill! A cheat way to make a sub feel like it’s in a bigger box.

going to call around today and find some power wire, ANC harness (I hope our local shop carries it) Some dyno-Matt for behind the sub, or tar paper.. And go get the amp.
Unless someone else has a suggestion for sub amp?
Also, Like mentioned use the high level in... I’ll start with this! If I need more ability to tune, I can always toss in a sub DSP....... If needed. To which being that factory sub... I might!

Suggestions on sub DSP. Thinking maybe epicenter from Audio Control... But I know many others are out! I don’t think I need a crazy 6 ch DSP. I don’t want to touch the interior speakers yet.
 

traymo

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I’m going to try and put the HK factory sub in the 6 speaker non-amp system. Using a Kicker Cx800.1 (roughly 250w at 5 ohm) and will be a good amp if I switch the sub out for something different.
I’m going to use one the the ANC bypass harness to grab the High-level... An I’ll be using the high level in on the amp. Getting switched is easy enough, you can grab from the ANC if wished.
I’m going to remove the ANC and mount the amp in it’s place. Run 4 AWG to the amp itself.

This will allow me to upgrade in the future for a different sub. I would have just made a box, but I no longer have a table saw (sad face)

couple things....1. With AlfaOBD you can turn off the speaker circuit protection (if it sees a short, or open) this may bypass some issues folks are having hooking up. Just a thought.

The HK sub is a crazy looking passive radiator/inverted sub! Yes, it may be the best for the box! Yes, it might be limited space! But, what I’ve learned in my 20 years of this stuff.... Factory amps can suck! Tho some a great!
My thoughts are (hopfully) that I’ll be able to tune the box a bit more, play with x over points a little bit, no gain some control over it for decent sound.
I’m board! I don’t want to spend 1000 on a sub box! 147 was low enough to experiment. I’ve also found the a Pioneer shallow mount will fit in the factory sub box, with little modifications to the box, as well a 1.25 speaker ring to set it up a bit (from calculations) BUT the inside of the stock sub box will have to be cut out a bit (has these plastic tab lines all over. They will need to go to fit any other sub. Also, Polly fill! A cheat way to make a sub feel like it’s in a bigger box.

going to call around today and find some power wire, ANC harness (I hope our local shop carries it) Some dyno-Matt for behind the sub, or tar paper.. And go get the amp.
Unless someone else has a suggestion for sub amp?
Also, Like mentioned use the high level in... I’ll start with this! If I need more ability to tune, I can always toss in a sub DSP....... If needed. To which being that factory sub... I might!

Suggestions on sub DSP. Thinking maybe epicenter from Audio Control... But I know many others are out! I don’t think I need a crazy 6 ch DSP. I don’t want to touch the interior speakers yet.
There is a setting in AlfaOBD for audio protection? I wonder if that is what is clipping the volume in the base 6 speaker setup at volumes over 23. Do you happen to know exactly what AlfaOBD calls the setting and what menu it is in?
 

Ryncody

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To me that's a waste of time and money, but not mine lol. I would just rather install one time rather than multiple times
Well I got kicker dash speakers, and I was curious, would 6.5" slim woofers work in rear doors and then add 6.5 component in front with an amp?
 

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