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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

It will not fit between the seat and wall carpet as there is almost no room there. The wall carpet will need to be cut to even attempt to fit it in there. It is going to be tight.


I'll see later today, Ive seen people put Amps back there its not much bigger than an amp. Ive heard people say everything from "theres tons of space back there" to "theres no room" so we will see
 
I'll see later today, Ive seen people put Amps back there its not much bigger than an amp. Ive heard people say everything from "theres tons of space back there" to "theres no room" so we will see
My big azz DD amps are back there with no issues.
 
I'll see later today, Ive seen people put Amps back there its not much bigger than an amp. Ive heard people say everything from "theres tons of space back there" to "theres no room" so we will see
I have my amp mounted on a carpeted plywood board back there as well. The amp fits fine and gets plenty of ventilationas well but just keep in mind the seat back moves both vertically and Horizontally (slightly) when the bottom of the seat is raised and lowered. I recommend you check your clearances with the seat up and down to make sure that it fits both ways.

Just wanted to share my experiences and thoughts from having removed the back seat in there entirety 4 times now.
 
I have my amp mounted on a carpeted plywood board back there as well. The amp fits fine and gets plenty of ventilationas well but just keep in mind the seat back moves both vertically and Horizontally (slightly) when the bottom of the seat is raised and lowered. I recommend you check your clearances with the seat up and down to make sure that it fits both ways.

Just wanted to share my experiences and thoughts from having removed the back seat in there entirety 4 times now.


Thanks, I have a quad cab with non-reclining seats, my seat backs dont move at all when I raise my lower portion up. I may be blazing the quad cab fact finding "what's behind the the seats" mission.

But to Turbo1895 I meant behind the wall carpet, not between the seat and the carpet. But i can stick my hand behind the wall carpet where there is a hole and seems like a good 2-3" inches or more back there.
 
I have my amp mounted on a carpeted plywood board back there as well. The amp fits fine and gets plenty of ventilationas well but just keep in mind the seat back moves both vertically and Horizontally (slightly) when the bottom of the seat is raised and lowered. I recommend you check your clearances with the seat up and down to make sure that it fits both ways.

Just wanted to share my experiences and thoughts from having removed the back seat in there entirety 4 times now.


How did you attach the plywood to the rear wall?
 
It will not fit between the seat and wall carpet as there is almost no room there. The wall carpet will need to be cut to even attempt to fit it in there. It is going to be tight.
I have a small Kicker amp between the seat and rear carpet. I had to recline the seat first to make room to squeeze it back there. You may be able to do the same, but might have to leave the seat partially reclined to keep it there. I just don't want to give up under seat storage.
 
How did you attach the plywood to the rear wall?
2" self tapping screws through the thick parts of the sheet metal. Once you remove the "rear wall" you will see the profile of the sheetmetal and just go through the thicker parts. Mine held real well and is secure.
 
I've read this thread front to back and back to front twice now. Just when you think you have it, bits and pieces of the multiple systems stick and confuse the entire thing. One question that was asked back in the 30 pages was about the plug behind the seat in a base 6 with ANC and it was never answered. Does anyone know what that plugs for?
 
I've read this thread front to back and back to front twice now. Just when you think you have it, bits and pieces of the multiple systems stick and confuse the entire thing. One question that was asked back in the 30 pages was about the plug behind the seat in a base 6 with ANC and it was never answered. Does anyone know what that plugs for?

which plug? Behind the rear seat? There is wiring on the drivers side (rear) for the battery for trucks with etorque. Might also be wiring for the sub on the passenger side (rear)but I don’t remember.
 
Went with a Rockville 10" powered sub so its got its own Amp. Cheap, gets good reviews, i dont need to shake the entire street. Just run power, ground, and tap your rear speakers done.

I have the base 6 system in my Rebel and starting to replace my speakers. When I do my front door speakers I want to add bass blockers and run a 10" sub in the rear. Nothing crazy, I'll let the rest of the speakers run off the head unit amp and use my old Alpine amp for my sub.

Where did you pull your signals for your subwoofer? Did you go back up behind the headunit and tap there or were you able to find more convenient access to speakers wires elsewhere?
 
I have the base 6 system in my Rebel and starting to replace my speakers. When I do my front door speakers I want to add bass blockers and run a 10" sub in the rear. Nothing crazy, I'll let the rest of the speakers run off the head unit amp and use my old Alpine amp for my sub.

Where did you pull your signals for your subwoofer? Did you go back up behind the headunit and tap there or were you able to find more convenient access to speakers wires elsewhere?


I tapped into the right rear door speaker wires and splices into them at the amp (smaller black connector). If i could do it again I'd just spend the money on the PAC harness, trying to strip those wires under the seat is a major pain.

Ive never used high level inputs before, i only have the right rear speaker going into it now. Am i missing anything by not using both the left and right signals? ( i am only sending one channel to the amp right now, would it be better to use both?) Extremely underwhelmed with the Rockville 10 right now, I'd say it adds maaaaybe 20% max to the bass, now I was not expecting a lot at all for a powered sub, but i was expecting a lot more than that. If hooking up the other channel to it doesnt improve it, I will probably ditch it and go with a dedicated amp/sub box under the seat.
 
I tapped into the right rear door speaker wires and splices into them at the amp (smaller black connector). If i could do it again I'd just spend the money on the PAC harness, trying to strip those wires under the seat is a major pain.

Ive never used high level inputs before, i only have the right rear speaker going into it now. Am i missing anything by not using both the left and right signals? ( i am only sending one channel to the amp right now, would it be better to use both?) Extremely underwhelmed with the Rockville 10 right now, I'd say it adds maaaaybe 20% max to the bass, now I was not expecting a lot at all for a powered sub, but i was expecting a lot more than that. If hooking up the other channel to it doesnt improve it, I will probably ditch it and go with a dedicated amp/sub box under the seat.
Complete speculation, but since you are pulling from the amplified input, won't that cut into the power provided to the rear door speaker thus knocking your system out of balance?
 
Complete speculation, but since you are pulling from the amplified input, won't that cut into the power provided to the rear door speaker thus knocking your system out of balance?


I asked that a few posts up. Basically the amp doesnt really draw any power from that speaker its just referencing the voltage.

Case in point, all i have hooked up is the right rear, it doesnt sound any less than it was yesterday and no different than the left one which isnt tapped, at least not that I can tell.
 
which plug? Behind the rear seat? There is wiring on the drivers side (rear) for the battery for trucks with etorque. Might also be wiring for the sub on the passenger side (rear)but I don’t remember.
This plugs zipped to the back of the cab pretty much dead center. The first thing I said when I seen it was for the Sub in the versions that have it but nobody seems to be pulling off this for anything. Hoping someone has played with it and now's definitively what it is before I go about either trying to figure it out or install without checking. Would be perfect if it was but then I question why isn't anyone else doing so if it is.
 
This plugs zipped to the back of the cab pretty much dead center. The first thing I said when I seen it was for the Sub in the versions that have it but nobody seems to be pulling off this for anything. Hoping someone has played with it and now's definitively what it is before I go about either trying to figure it out or install without checking. Would be perfect if it was but then I question why isn't anyone else doing so if it is.

Thats where the E-torque battery is. The factory sub is in the passenger corner, so i doubt thats a harness for it, more than likely a pre-wire for the E-torque system. All the wires and small gauge, useless for power.
 
I tapped into the right rear door speaker wires and splices into them at the amp (smaller black connector). If i could do it again I'd just spend the money on the PAC harness, trying to strip those wires under the seat is a major pain.

Ive never used high level inputs before, i only have the right rear speaker going into it now. Am i missing anything by not using both the left and right signals? ( i am only sending one channel to the amp right now, would it be better to use both?) Extremely underwhelmed with the Rockville 10 right now, I'd say it adds maaaaybe 20% max to the bass, now I was not expecting a lot at all for a powered sub, but i was expecting a lot more than that. If hooking up the other channel to it doesnt improve it, I will probably ditch it and go with a dedicated amp/sub box under the seat.

PAC ANC-CH01?


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This plugs zipped to the back of the cab pretty much dead center. The first thing I said when I seen it was for the Sub in the versions that have it but nobody seems to be pulling off this for anything. Hoping someone has played with it and now's definitively what it is before I go about either trying to figure it out or install without checking. Would be perfect if it was but then I question why isn't anyone else doing so if it is.

it’s either for the sub, which you don’t have, or the etorque, which you don’t have. Based on location it sounds like etorque. Either way it doesn’t matter because you can’t use the harness for anything.
 
Thanks, I have a quad cab with non-reclining seats, my seat backs dont move at all when I raise my lower portion up. I may be blazing the quad cab fact finding "what's behind the the seats" mission.

But to Turbo1895 I meant behind the wall carpet, not between the seat and the carpet. But i can stick my hand behind the wall carpet where there is a hole and seems like a good 2-3" inches or more back there.
There is a little bit more then 3" once you remove the carpeted wall.
it’s either for the sub, which you don’t have, or the etorque, which you don’t have. Based on location it sounds like etorque. Either way it doesn’t matter because you can’t use the harness for anything.
100% it is for the etorque. No question about it.
 
I have the base 6 system in my Rebel and starting to replace my speakers. When I do my front door speakers I want to add bass blockers and run a 10" sub in the rear. Nothing crazy, I'll let the rest of the speakers run off the head unit amp and use my old Alpine amp for my sub.

Where did you pull your signals for your subwoofer? Did you go back up behind the headunit and tap there or were you able to find more convenient access to speakers wires elsewhere?
Here is a post I put up with a link to the easiest and fastest way to get your inputs for a subwoofer, sorry it is a little long but I think it is relevant to your questions.
So right now I have purchased and have in my possession two JL Audio 10" w1v3-4 and will run them in parallel from a JL Audio JX500/1D. I am getting the RCA signal and remote turn on from the Net Audio harness and ANC bypass that I already installed this past weekend. (BTW so far I have noticed very little difference with no ANC but I haven't been on an extended highway trip yet either).

To answer your question, Right now the plan is to leave the door speakers being powered from the stock head unit and add the fore mentioned subwoofers and amp whenever I receive my fox acoustic box. This set-up saved me roughly $1200 over plan B which was adding the pac amppro ap4-ch41(r2) and powering all speakers off a single amp or dual amps. I decided to go with option 1 mainly because I don't feel that the volume of the door speakers is the main issue in my system but the lack of true low end bass is. The benefits of adding an amp is substantial and not only would these speakers get more power but they would get cleaner power and the ability to use either crossovers or an eq to tune the sound much better as well.

Right now I am planning on sticking with option 1, at least until I get the new rims, tires and leveling kit purchased that I have been eyeing. After that I may revisit my decision if I am not blown away by these upgrades but I also want to upgrade the rims/tires and that is going to cost me at least another 3500 as well.

And for the record, everything I figured out in the above post has been gathered by reading this entire thread at least 2x from start to finish and I want to give all the credit to the guys before me that really figured this mess out.

Link to the net audio harness for good measure.

And the pac am pro harness

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/anc-ch01
 
Thanks turbo. I have a audio control processor so i don’t need the rca output as I can use speaker levels and be ok.

I’m sure it’s been tried but has anyone tried to pull the speaker signals directly from the wires for the rear speakers under the drivers seat and leaving anc in tact?



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