5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

[sman301]

Interesting observations, I may be one of the few people who have upgraded the 5" uconnect to the 8.4 (infotainment).

Only mods were the 2 kickers in the dash corners. I previously had my 5" equalizer set to almost maximum negative treble and backwards 2 clicks. It sounded ok but was getting some mild popping/cracking from the corners and generally sounded muddy when turned louder.

Upgraded to the 8.4 stereo...NIGHT AND DAY difference. Equalizer set to 0 (except bass turned up). Probably 25-40% clearer than the 5" radio, no more popping or crackling sounds through the audio. I know not many people have the 5", but if you do apparently the 8.4 outputs a vastly superior/clearer signal.

This is probably because the 5" head unit didn't provide enough quality power. I have the 8" and in think about adding an amp to properly power my doors which has jl audio c2. I just ordered some kenwood 3.5s for the dash.

sman301 sman301 sman301

 

[Gozar]

I have the 6 speaker with 8” screen system and wanted more volume. I ended up installing the Kicker Key amp under the driver seat. It’s easy to tie in under the driver seat because that’s where the stock amp is located. Just wired out of the factory amp and went into the kicker key and then out to the speakers. I definitely gained the volume increase I wanted. It’s not crazy loud but at least you can rock with the windows down and still hear the music. I’m not changing the speakers, they seem fine and handle the new amp just fine. I can’t see just changing the speakers in the truck and leaving everything else stock being worth while but adding a cheap and easy to install amp is worth it. The only other thing I had to do was cut the wires at the stock amp to disable the active noise canceling which seems to freak out once you make changes to the stereo system.

Can you elaborate on how you wired the speakers? The Kicker Key Amp is 4-channel, the base system is 6 speakers. I am thinking about that same amp and was hoping to get your input. Thanks

 

[All_Black_Lone_Star]

Can you elaborate on how you wired the speakers? The Kicker Key Amp is 4-channel, the base system is 6 speakers. I am thinking about that same amp and was hoping to get your input. Thanks

The front door and dash speakers are on the same channel look into the ANC bypass harness from net audio. This will prevent you from cutting your factory harness and give you a better understanding on how to wire the kicker key.

 

[Joel-A]

Can you elaborate on how you wired the speakers? The Kicker Key Amp is 4-channel, the base system is 6 speakers. I am thinking about that same amp and was hoping to get your input. Thanks

The speakers in the dash are wired off the front door speakers I believe with hopefully a crossover or a resistor. There are only 4 sets of speaker wires coming out of the stock amp under the seat. I wired into those and all 6 speakers work and sound fine. Now the amp pushes the speakers and I have head room in volume. I didn’t like the Key amps settings when you set it up to EQ the system. If you try that amp you may find it sounds best not using the Key EQ the highs were too much and distorted which may be because of the two dash tweets.

 

[jabara572]

I have the base 6 speaker system. I just found i can buy the 9 speaker sub for about $110, is there any way I could also buy the 9 speaker amp and somehow hook up the sub to run?

I really dont want to add a box under the rear seat, so if i could effectively install the 9 speaker subwoofer and amp for about $300 that would be great. Im guessing I'd have to run wires to the subwoofer itself and pin them into my existing harness connector? Or would they be totally different connectors?

 

[Joel-A]

I have the base 6 speaker system. I just found i can buy the 9 speaker sub for about $110, is there any way I could also buy the 9 speaker amp and somehow hook up the sub to run?

I really dont want to add a box under the rear seat, so if i could effectively install the 9 speaker subwoofer and amp for about $300 that would be great. Im guessing I'd have to run wires to the subwoofer itself and pin them into my existing harness connector? Or would they be totally different connectors?

I’ve seen some posts in here stating the trucks are pre wired for the sub but don’t quote me on that. I guess the sub would mount behind the back seat, there should already be a space for it. As far as the amp I think it would work. You’d just have to do some more research. Maybe somebody has already done that or looked it to that set up and has some more info for you.

 

[Turbo1895]

I’ve seen some posts in here stating the trucks are pre wired for the sub but don’t quote me on that. I guess the sub would mount behind the back seat, there should already be a space for it. As far as the amp I think it would work. You’d just have to do some more research. Maybe somebody has already done that or looked it to that set up and has some more info for you.

When I took apart the entire rear of the cab to install the sound mat I did not find any wiring or cutouts for the factory sub. At the very least you will be cutting out the sheetmetal where the sub mounts (I am pretty sure it mounts in the rear wall of the cab as well) and then you will need to figure out how to secure it properly as I did not see any mounting holes either. From what I can tell, this may be a much bigger project then adding a box under the seat. Remember you do not have to go with a full dual subwoofer setup and can get away with a small prewired/powered sub woofer setup as well. Something like one of these :

Powered Subwoofers at Crutchfield

Shopping for Powered Subwoofers? Our Virginia-based experts love helping folks find the right gear. Get FREE 2-day shipping and free lifetime tech support with your order.

www.crutchfield.com

Either way good luck with the install.

 

[PicantePeperoni]

I’ve seen some posts in here stating the trucks are pre wired for the sub but don’t quote me on that. I guess the sub would mount behind the back seat, there should already be a space for it. As far as the amp I think it would work. You’d just have to do some more research. Maybe somebody has already done that or looked it to that set up and has some more info for you.

Hello,
I wanted to add a quick post regarding my experience in case it would help anyone else. I ordered 4 Kicker 46CSC6934 for the doors which came with the Metra 71-050 Speaker Wiring Adapters and installed them 2 weeks ago. Install was easy all except for the passenger front door speaker window got caught on the wiring and pulled out a connector. Otherwise everything fit perfectly. The sound quality is better but I do not feel like there is more bass response. I'll probably be looking to install a sub soon.

I noticed that all speakers appear to be installed with inverse polarity when using the polarity checker app on my android (negative shows on screen) both before the speaker install and after the install. There was no need to swap any pins in the connector when keeping the same polarity as factory. I find it odd that all the speakers are inverse but maybe that has something to do with playing nice with the ANC.

I have not noticed any issues with ANC after the install and it almost seems like there is less ANC in the cabin. I've noticed that I hear more road noise and more from the engine/exhaust which I like. Occasionally, before the install, I would have the loud droning noise that everyone complains about and I agree that it sounds terrible. Sounds like you are driving over the rumble groves on the highway that keep drivers awake. After the install I have not heard any issues with the ANC. This seems to make sense as the new speakers are a higher Ohm, you need more volume to drive the same response. I believe the ANC power is fixed so there is less ANC response on the newer speakers.

I'm getting new kicker 46CSC354 dash speakers today and will update after the install.

Thanks to everyone in this thread that has helped so far, your assistance is greatly appreciated.

 

[ksn240]

I have the base 6 speaker system. I just found i can buy the 9 speaker sub for about $110, is there any way I could also buy the 9 speaker amp and somehow hook up the sub to run?

I really dont want to add a box under the rear seat, so if i could effectively install the 9 speaker subwoofer and amp for about $300 that would be great. Im guessing I'd have to run wires to the subwoofer itself and pin them into my existing harness connector? Or would they be totally different connectors?

It won't be that simple and you would likely run into other issues. Not sure if the Alpine system has any extra power wires running to the amp or not but I imagine it would. I would imagine the rear wall is the same across all models as it would be inefficient if it wasn't. The factory sub is not very good though, and it is also a 3 voice coil sub, which are pretty much non existent. You could get the factory enclosure, put in a very shallow aftermarket dual voice coil sub in it, and add an aftermarket amp and would get much better results if you were dead set on having it back there where it isn't visible.

 

[jabara572]

I've been doing research via this forum, youtube and online chats. Chose to only upgrade the speakers in my base 6 system in my Rebel. Total cost was under $200.

Dash Speakers from Walmart ($37.46/pr)
KICKER 44KSC3504 3.5" (89mm) Coax Spkrs w/.5"(13mm) tweeters, 4ohm, RoHS Compliant

Walmart # 564193356

2 sets of Door Speakers from Best Buy ($64.99/pr)
JBL - GX Series 6" x 9" 3-Way Car Loudspeakers with Polypropylene Cones (Pair) - Orange/Black
Model:GX9638
SKU:6283669

Also picked up a 2 pack of Metra adapters (4 total) 72-6514 for $10.39 from Amazon. Had to swap around the wires to reverse polarity, but was easy using an eyeglass screwdriver to push the plastic retaining clip up. I just wired in the dash speakers.

Holes don't line up perfect in the door speakers, but I just trimmed some away with a wire snips. Had some troubles removing the door panel's in the Rebel, wasn't exactly 1-2-3, but worked out in the end. Thanks to all who've contributed here and on other threads concerning upgrading the system. Sounds great!!

I have those speakers in the dash, what do you feel about the door speakers vs stock? Mostly interested in getting a tad more bass, but ive heard some actually produce less.

 

[sman301]

I have those speakers in the dash, what do you feel about the door speakers vs stock? Mostly interested in getting a tad more bass, but ive heard some actually produce less.

I would say for quality bass get a sub. The doors are just not the best location to get bass from. I replace my door speakers with jl audio c2 and dash with kenwoods. Vocals and highs are excellent but over power the bass from doors. I disable the tweeters from 2 doors by cutting the wire to the tweeter and now bass is good and clean with no distortion but not to my liking when I turn it up because the doors are just not good acousticly I guess. Its sound like the jl audio c2 needs a better enclosure. I'm gonna add a sub to round out the system and let the doors just handle mid to mid mid bass.. So far I have acheive excellent highs and mids so I just need some power on the low end

sman301 sman301 sman301

 

[Turbo1895]

I would say for quality bass get a sub. The doors are just not the best location to get bass from. I replace my door speakers with jl audio c2 and dash with kenwoods. Vocals and highs are excellent but over power the bass from doors. I disable the tweeters from 2 doors by cutting the wire to the tweeter and now bass is good and clean with no distortion but not to my liking when I turn it up because the doors are just not good acousticly I guess. Its sound like the jl audio c2 needs a better enclosure. I'm gonna add a sub to round out the system and let the doors just handle mid to mid mid bass.. So far I have acheive excellent highs and mids so I just need some power on the low end

sman301 sman301 sman301

This is a spot on assessment. I am suddenly in the market for a new truck and need to go pull the system from my 'old' truck as soon as the adjuster gets back to me with a Final decision but will be building it the same way the second time around.

 

[sman301]

This is a spot on assessment. I am suddenly in the market for a new truck and need to go pull the system from my 'old' truck as soon as the adjuster gets back to me with a Final decision but will be building it the same way the second time around.

What happen to the old truck? I remember you working hard on that thing.

sman301 sman301 sman301

 

[Turbo1895]

What happen to the old truck? I remember you working hard on that thing.

sman301 sman301 sman301

I take the train to work and while parked in the train station lot, a 2012 ram drove off the adjoining road and directly into the rear passenger side of my truck. Took out entire passenger side, bed, rear axle and rear suspension and may have twisted the frame. This happened Thursday and I haven't seen it yet (I finally have a chance to go this am) but I was told by the body shop it is mangled and probably a total loss. Waiting on adjuster to review now and confirm then I have to go strip out what I can as quickly as possible.

 

[jabara572]

Has anyone been able to fit a slimline sub behind the back seat?

 

[rah6887]

Has anyone been able to fit a slimline sub behind the back seat?

I was considering going with something like the Slimline behind the seat, but there is what maybe 3" of space.
I want to use a full size sub, so I may go with this, nothing much to offer for the quad cabs ugh.

 

[jabara572]

I was considering going with something like the Slimline behind the seat, but there is what maybe 3" of space.
I want to use a full size sub, so I may go with this, nothing much to offer for the quad cabs ugh.

Yeah space is limited enough in the quad cab so underseat subs probably arent gonna work for me. Unless its just a slimline sitting on the floor. Looking more to stuff a slimline under the passenger seat or on the back wall or something.

 

[ksn240]

Yeah space is limited enough in the quad cab so underseat subs probably arent gonna work for me. Unless its just a slimline sitting on the floor. Looking more to stuff a slimline under the passenger seat or on the back wall or something.

There is a fair amount of room on the back wall. Remove the "fake wall" and you could make something happen back there.

 

[Marky Mark]

For anyone curious on what the factory amp and sub looks like from Alpine system. Pic attached.

Now running 2 Digital Designs amps on (2) JL 10W3v3-2 subs, along with all Focal interior components. Running Axxess Digital Signal Processor (AX-DSP) into PAC CH41. Running right at 2000 watts. This sheeeeeet screams and is clean/concert hall sound as I demand from all my system builds.

Now working on 12.1" Tview headrest monitors for the "borrowed" kiddos in back. Will run those to a Western Digital "media center" for video etc. and they will just use wireless headphones.

**Note** My local go to "stereo guy" did my stereo as I pulled it all out my Charger Scat before trading it.....So if ya have any "deep" questions, you might want to turn to your local stereo gurus, if one of us goes silent on ya.

 

[Dillonance]

same here, 9 channel I thought was a unconnect 12 issue, and that often was bundled with ET.

I got the uconnect 12, no ET tow package.

So again what does having the etorque have anything to do with having a different wiring or channels? Cannot find anything with any proof...