5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

[KidCutti]

Yeah, I hear what you're saying. I'm just shy of 3k miles now so it's time to start tinkering.
The ANC system itself can be quite beneficial. I think a lot of folks have been getting screwed by Ram's weird wiring and ended up with speakers out of phase causing the ANC drone issues. Down the road, I'll probably add some subs too, but this will suffice for now.
As for the door panels, these are really easy. 2 little plastic covers you pop off, then 3 x 10mm bolts. Work around the edge and pop the plastic push-pins out. Then I just grab it by the handle and give it a firm pull to pop the last 4 up top. Disconnect the door lock and wire harness and you'll have plenty of room to work.

I deleted my ANC after installing a couple JL 10’s in a custom down-firing box. The delete improved my audio performance slightly and any increase of outside road noise was unnoticeable to me. Besides, we install high end audio to listen to it and that’s the true ANC system.

 

[sman301]

I would and did put all of the speakers in the same correct phase when I replaced mine. I also installed the same speakers and they are awesome but your right the bass is still lacking and that is only going to be solved by adding a sub or 2. I was told by a few people that sound deadening the doors will increase the bass out of these door speakers but I haven't gotten to that just yet. As it is, I spent the entire weekend sound deading the entire rear of the cab, running the power and rca cables, and installing the amp mounting board on the rear wall of the cab, for the subwoofers that I am going to install. Right now I am waiting on the fox acoustic dual 10" sub box to arrive and I can finally complete the full upgrade. This weekend I Spent a solid 14 hours working and picking up parts and my truck appears no different and sounds exactly the same as it did when I started.

Did you install an amp for the door speakers ? I wondering if I amplify the doors that would increase the bass response. I dont need crazy amount of base, just a bit more.

sman301 sman301 sman301

 

[sman301]

I have seen on some have added a low pass filter on the front doors to eliminate the highs since there are highs already from the dash. Can someone explain what I need to do to achieve this? I have searched for low pass filter and all I get is the filter on an amp. I am looking for something more like a base blocker but the reverse. Dont really want to install an amp if I can use something passive.

 

[MBORO19RAM]

Hopefully these will work. If not I will go with JBL.

View attachment 40430

These sound great with 600 Hz Bass Blockers. Much better sound than the Infinity I returned back to Crutchfield.

 

[Turbo1895]

Did you install an amp for the door speakers ? I wondering if I amplify the doors that would increase the bass response. I dont need crazy amount of base, just a bit more.

sman301 sman301 sman301

So right now I have purchased and have in my possession two JL Audio 10" w1v3-4 and will run them in series from a JL Audio JX500/1D. I am getting the RCA signal and remote turn on from the Net Audio harness and ANC bypass that I already installed this past weekend. (BTW so far I have noticed very little difference with no ANC but I haven't been on an extended highway trip yet either).

To answer your question, Right now the plan is to leave the door speakers being powered from the stock head unit and add the fore mentioned subwoofers and amp whenever I receive my fox acoustic box. This set-up saved me roughly $1200 over plan B which was adding the pac amppro ap4-ch41(r2) and powering all speakers off a single amp or dual amps. I decided to go with option 1 mainly because I don't feel that the volume of the door speakers is the main issue in my system but the lack of true low end bass is. The benefits of adding an amp is substantial and not only would these speakers get more power but they would get cleaner power and the ability to use either crossovers or an eq to tune the sound much better as well.

Right now I am planning on sticking with option 1, at least until I get the new rims, tires and leveling kit purchased that I have been eyeing. After that I may revisit my decision if I am not blown away by these upgrades but I also want to upgrade the rims/tires and that is going to cost me at least another 3500 as well.

And for the record, everything I figured out in the above post has been gathered by reading this entire thread at least 2x from start to finish and I want to give all the credit to the guys before me that really figured this mess out.

Link to the net audio harness for good measure.

Dodge Ram Subwoofer Install Subwoofer Harness Converter

dodge ram radio t-harness, dodge ram radio harness, dodge ram harness, dodge ram radio t-harness, dodge ram radio harness, dodge ram harness

www.netaudiowf.com

And the pac am pro harness

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/anc-ch01

 

[Turbo1895]

I have seen on some have added a low pass filter on the front doors to eliminate the highs since there are highs already from the dash. Can someone explain what I need to do to achieve this? I have searched for low pass filter and all I get is the filter on an amp. I am looking for something more like a base blocker but the reverse. Dont really want to install an amp if I can use something passive.

Essentially what you want to do is add a crossover so you can tune the frequency your speakers are seeing. To be honest, I am not sure if there is an easy way to do that with out adding an amp or messing with the wiring as it leaves the anc and feeds the speakers. It certainly is doable, I just don't think there is a simple way to do it without cutting into the wiring exiting the ANC or an amp.

 

[sman301]

Essentially what you want to do is add a crossover so you can tune the frequency your speakers are seeing. To be honest, I am not sure if there is an easy way to do that with out adding an amp or messing with the wiring as it leaves the anc and feeds the speakers. It certainly is doable, I just don't think there is a simple way to do it without cutting into the wiring exiting the ANC or an amp.

Was hoping for a cheaper answer lol. I guess I have to flex the wallet a bit more.

The main issue I have is that the highs from the C2s doesnt sound right. It's too loud with no real bass and louder than the mids but everything is crystal clear. It like this when playing music with android auto but over bluetooth it sounds more balance. The head unit is just not that good I guess. I'm going correct the polarity and check if that helps. If not im going to get good amp and balance this out.

Thanks for all the help and everyone who contributed on this thread.

sman301 sman301 sman301

 

[Joel-A]

I have the 6 speaker with 8” screen system and wanted more volume. I ended up installing the Kicker Key amp under the driver seat. It’s easy to tie in under the driver seat because that’s where the stock amp is located. Just wired out of the factory amp and went into the kicker key and then out to the speakers. I definitely gained the volume increase I wanted. It’s not crazy loud but at least you can rock with the windows down and still hear the music. I’m not changing the speakers, they seem fine and handle the new amp just fine. I can’t see just changing the speakers in the truck and leaving everything else stock being worth while but adding a cheap and easy to install amp is worth it. The only other thing I had to do was cut the wires at the stock amp to disable the active noise canceling which seems to freak out once you make changes to the stereo system.

 

[lunchboxphil]

Was hoping for a cheaper answer lol. I guess I have to flex the wallet a bit more.

The main issue I have is that the highs from the C2s doesnt sound right. It's too loud with no real bass and louder than the mids but everything is crystal clear. It like this when playing music with android auto but over bluetooth it sounds more balance. The head unit is just not that good I guess. I'm going correct the polarity and check if that helps. If not im going to get good amp and balance this out.

Thanks for all the help and everyone who contributed on this thread.

sman301 sman301 sman301

I've been researching a bunch of threads and I came across someone who bypassed their tweeter for the front doors. I looked a bit and cannot find the post now, not even sure if it's this site - but it is a how-to video if it's something that's an option you want to explore.

 

[lunchboxphil]

I have the 6 speaker with 8” screen system and wanted more volume. I ended up installing the Kicker Key amp under the driver seat. It’s easy to tie in under the driver seat because that’s where the stock amp is located. Just wired out of the factory amp and went into the kicker key and then out to the speakers. I definitely gained the volume increase I wanted. It’s not crazy loud but at least you can rock with the windows down and still hear the music. I’m not changing the speakers, they seem fine and handle the new amp just fine. I can’t see just changing the speakers in the truck and leaving everything else stock being worth while but adding a cheap and easy to install amp is worth it. The only other thing I had to do was cut the wires at the stock amp to disable the active noise canceling which seems to freak out once you make changes to the stereo system.

I went with Kicker's for the dash for $38 from walmart and JBL GX series for $65x2 from Best Buy. The key is the door speakers are 2ohm so if you go down to 4ohm, you will lose volume. The JBL's are 2.7ohm resistance and I don't need to turn the dial past 25. Much louder than stock - w/o an amp. Was about the same price as a Kicker Key and sounds great. Didn't need to mess with ANC, PLC or stock amp - just the EQ to refine the improvements.

 

[sman301]

I went with Kicker's for the dash for $38 from walmart and JBL GX series for $65x2 from Best Buy. The key is the door speakers are 2ohm so if you go down to 4ohm, you will lose volume. The JBL's are 2.7ohm resistance and I don't need to turn the dial past 25. Much louder than stock - w/o an amp. Was about the same price as a Kicker Key and sounds great. Didn't need to mess with ANC, PLC or stock amp - just the EQ to refine the improvements.

How loud were the kickers compare to stock? Did you use bass blockers? I'm on the fence with getting these or the kenwoods which has lower efficiency.

sman301 sman301 sman301

 

[Turbo1895]

So right now I have purchased and have in my possession two JL Audio 10" w1v3-4 and will run them in series from a JL Audio JX500/1D. I am getting the RCA signal and remote turn on from the Net Audio harness and ANC bypass that I already installed this past weekend. (BTW so far I have noticed very little difference with no ANC but I haven't been on an extended highway trip yet either).

To answer your question, Right now the plan is to leave the door speakers being powered from the stock head unit and add the fore mentioned subwoofers and amp whenever I receive my fox acoustic box. This set-up saved me roughly $1200 over plan B which was adding the pac amppro ap4-ch41(r2) and powering all speakers off a single amp or dual amps. I decided to go with option 1 mainly because I don't feel that the volume of the door speakers is the main issue in my system but the lack of true low end bass is. The benefits of adding an amp is substantial and not only would these speakers get more power but they would get cleaner power and the ability to use either crossovers or an eq to tune the sound much better as well.

Right now I am planning on sticking with option 1, at least until I get the new rims, tires and leveling kit purchased that I have been eyeing. After that I may revisit my decision if I am not blown away by these upgrades but I also want to upgrade the rims/tires and that is going to cost me at least another 3500 as well.

And for the record, everything I figured out in the above post has been gathered by reading this entire thread at least 2x from start to finish and I want to give all the credit to the guys before me that really figured this mess out.

Link to the net audio harness for good measure.

Dodge Ram Subwoofer Install Subwoofer Harness Converter

dodge ram radio t-harness, dodge ram radio harness, dodge ram harness, dodge ram radio t-harness, dodge ram radio harness, dodge ram harness

www.netaudiowf.com

And the pac am pro harness

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/anc-ch01

So I got back yesterday from being away with family for Thanksgiving and found my Fox Acoustic box on my front steps. I wired it up last night and then installed everything into the truck today.

Man, not sure what to say except wow. These dual 10" subs hit hard and left the dash and radio graphics literally shaking from the bass. Needless to say the low end is no longer lacking in my sound system and I am throughly pleased right now. Still need to fine tune the settings to my level of perfection but after a quick 20 mins I have it dialed in pretty close.

If your on the fence about upgrading your sound system, I say you do it and you will not be disappointed.

Spend the time, do the research, figure out exactly what YOU want from the sound system and then just make it happen.

 

[Marky Mark]

^^Cool...As I begin my install I just got my Fox Acoustic dual vented 10" box yesterday too. I will be running JL w3v3 10's in it. My interior will be (3) sets of Focal components which I pulled from my last car before trade on the Ram. Amps will be Digital Designs on subs and highs.

 

[Hackmunch]

do yourself a favor and get the dsr1 if your going to replace factory amp.

 

[Marky Mark]

do yourself a favor and get the dsr1 if your going to replace factory amp.

I already have the PAC CH41 and Axxess AX-DSP from my last build.

 

[Turbo1895]

^^Cool...As I begin my install I just got my Fox Acoustic dual vented 10" box yesterday too. I will be running JL w3v3 10's in it. My interior will be (3) sets of Focal components which I pulled from my last car before trade on the Ram. Amps will be Digital Designs on subs and highs.

Stupid question, how many speaker terminals cups did you receive for the back of the fox acoustic box? I only received 1 terminal cup when there was holes for 2. I ran the speakers in parallel to drop the load to the amp to 2 ohms so I only needed 1 terminal cup to get everything wired correctly. The problem was that the unplugged hole obviously let alot of air escape and that air caused a nasty rattle in the back of the cab. To solve that I cut a scrape piece of plywood to fit over the hole and screwed it in and boom problem solved until I get another cup from amazon delivered.

Just thought it was weird that there was only 1 from the manufacturer.

Also, not sure if you planned on installing sound deadening mat in the rear of the cab but I am glad I took the extra time to do it. I had the one rattle that Was solved by eliminating the extra port of air but other then that I am good so far.

 

[steve1982]

Just thought it was weird that there was only 1 from the manufacturer.

Those things fall out all the time during shipping. The holes are slightly too big and they just fall out. I always silicone mine in place so they don't move or let any air out.

 

[Marky Mark]

Stupid question, how many speaker terminals cups did you receive for the back of the fox acoustic box? I only received 1 terminal cup when there was holes for 2. I ran the speakers in parallel to drop the load to the amp to 2 ohms so I only needed 1 terminal cup to get everything wired correctly. The problem was that the unplugged hole obviously let alot of air escape and that air caused a nasty rattle in the back of the cab. To solve that I cut a scrape piece of plywood to fit over the hole and screwed it in and boom problem solved until I get another cup from amazon delivered.

Just thought it was weird that there was only 1 from the manufacturer.

Also, not sure if you planned on installing sound deadening mat in the rear of the cab but I am glad I took the extra time to do it. I had the one rattle that Was solved by eliminating the extra port of air but other then that I am good so far.

Hmmm....I will have to check mine too. I installed it (did the seat height adjusters too), but my subs just arrived today so I did not pay close attention to that. And the truck is at my buddy's shop getting my Hornblasters train horns installed. So won't be able to check it until I pick it up.

Oh and yes for sure I plan to lay down sound deadening. That is a must!

 

[lunchboxphil]

How loud were the kickers compare to stock? Did you use bass blockers? I'm on the fence with getting these or the kenwoods which has lower efficiency.

sman301 sman301 sman301

Hey. Sorry for the delay, but better late than never. I did the dash Kickers first months before the doors and they were noticeably louder than the stock dash as well as the doors. I was riding with the system shifted 2 clicks off center toward the rear. After putting the JBL's in the doors, I'm back to center and everything is evenly louder than stock. I don't go past 25 as quality dips and more is louder than I want with this setup. Did adjust the treble down and the bass up, no blockers.

 

[jabara572]

Interesting observations, I may be one of the few people who have upgraded the 5" uconnect to the 8.4 (infotainment).

Only mods were the 2 kickers in the dash corners. I previously had my 5" equalizer set to almost maximum negative treble and backwards 2 clicks. It sounded ok but was getting some mild popping/cracking from the corners and generally sounded muddy when turned louder.

Upgraded to the 8.4 stereo...NIGHT AND DAY difference. Equalizer set to 0 (except bass turned up). Probably 25-40% clearer than the 5" radio, no more popping or crackling sounds through the audio. I know not many people have the 5", but if you do apparently the 8.4 outputs a vastly superior/clearer signal.