5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

[Patsy1099]

I have begun my upgrade from the stock 6 speaker. I just installed Infinity Ref-3032cfx 3.5 in the dash (3ohm) and Ref-9632ix in the doors (also 3ohm, going in soon). Everything will be checked for polarity and be wired in phase, regardless if it messes with the ANC (I will disconnect if need be). I had to correct one of the dash and metra harnesses already.

I am not sure if I will do an amp or sub afterwards. It depends on the sound of the speaker upgrade and also whether or not I can do something relatively simple. Don’t want to get too crazy.

I have a couple of questions. I’ve read that the dash and front doors are wired in parallel. If I am considering the possibility of doing an amp, should I run some speaker wire now to the front doors so I can put them on their own channel and run the dash speakers as mids only? Or am I understanding something incorrectly?

I have read this entire thread 2-3 times but am still confused on some things including whether the ANC issue is understood and corrected and if Maestro of anything else makes a clean plug/play solution.

Can @WRH @YoAdrian or anyone else comment on the above? Any suggestions on amp solution that will be the easiest install from a headache standpoint? I don’t mind disconnecting stuff and rewiring but I would prefer to do things once and not have to rip things apart again. I also don’t want anything that will be glitchy or give me headaches with things not working. I prefer it as bulletproof as possible.

Thanks guys.

 

[wildh24]

If you're already replacing speakers, you're going to get familiar with the process of accessing the speakers and removing the door panels. So that second time through will be quite a bit quicker. I've gone in mine 3 times and pop the panels off in less than 3 minutes.

I say this because it sounds like you aren't certain whether you're going to add an amp. If you are set on an amp, then yes definitely, run speaker wire right away. Doors will be the hardest since you'll have to route through the grommet. I'm not positive on the dash, but it looked relatively easy to snake a wire down from the access panels.

I've looked at a number of the available options. A lot of it depends on how deep you want to go and how much serious tweaking you want to do. I personally feel the PAC Amppro will accomplish 99% of what you're looking for unless you're really wanting to have a lot of control via active crossover and DSP.

As far as amp, if you're using the PAC, your getting a pretty clean signal so the sky is the limit and it really comes down to budget and goals.

 

[grooves12]

Please Help!!! I have installed the JBL 6x9 in all four doors and now I am getting the drone with ANC at certain rpms. I have the Speaker Pop app on the iphone but have no idea how to use it to make sure all the speakers are right.

I am curious... the ANC speaker drone some of you have had. How noticeable is it? Is it something that is so clearly wrong that anyone who isn't listening for it would say "WTF is that?!?!" or is it something more subtle and you have to be listening for it.

I have a mild drone at certain RPMs but I can't tell if it's normal sounds for the truck or something going on with the ANC.

 

[Patsy1099]

If you're already replacing speakers, you're going to get familiar with the process of accessing the speakers and removing the door panels. So that second time through will be quite a bit quicker. I've gone in mine 3 times and pop the panels off in less than 3 minutes.

I say this because it sounds like you aren't certain whether you're going to add an amp. If you are set on an amp, then yes definitely, run speaker wire right away. Doors will be the hardest since you'll have to route through the grommet. I'm not positive on the dash, but it looked relatively easy to snake a wire down from the access panels.

I've looked at a number of the available options. A lot of it depends on how deep you want to go and how much serious tweaking you want to do. I personally feel the PAC Amppro will accomplish 99% of what you're looking for unless you're really wanting to have a lot of control via active crossover and DSP.

As far as amp, if you're using the PAC, your getting a pretty clean signal so the sky is the limit and it really comes down to budget and goals.

Thanks.
Which PAC do you use. The ones one Crutchfield are saying they don’t work with the ‘19

 

[wildh24]

https://pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ch41

I paid 180 on eBay. I'm only using it for the sub channel but have no issues.

I think crutchfield is still working on what does and doesn't work. They say multiple speakers don't fit when the do.

The nice thing about the Amppro is that you aren't cutting into a bunch of wires so you could always unhook and return if it's not doing what you need it to and you're back to square one. Multiple members of the forum have used it for sub replacements and I haven't seen any problems.... And I've read nearly every stereo related thread.

 

[wildh24]

I am curious... the ANC speaker drone some of you have had. How noticeable is it? Is it something that is so clearly wrong that anyone who isn't listening for it would say "WTF is that?!?!" or is it something more subtle and you have to be listening for it.

I have a mild drone at certain RPMs but I can't tell if it's normal sounds for the truck or something going on with the ANC.

For me it's mild. Audible, but not overbearing to the point to want to get out of the vehicle.

I have a theory. I think it's possible that it is a problem with a number of trucks. A number of other have reported it without doing a thing to the speakers. There are at least 4-5 other threads talking about it. For me when I replaced the speakers it became noticable, but maybe only because the new speakers have much better bass response than the stock. For some of us, it could be that we only noticed after the speaker change.

In terms of how loud.... If you put the volume at about 11 and held a steady 60hz tone that's about what I hear. I'm estimating because I don't know for sure, but I think that'd be at least close.

 

[YoAdrian]

If I am considering the possibility of doing an amp, should I run some speaker wire now to the front doors so I can put them on their own channel and run the dash speakers as mids only?

Hey @Patsy1099 I would agree with @wildh24, whether or nor you spend the time running wire is up to you depending on how high your expectations are. I have high standards but have limited my expectations to my time/money budget... went in knowing I would stop at a speaker swap even if the sound wasn’t perfect. And he’s right, pulling the panels again is not bad after you learn the drill.

I am curious... the ANC speaker drone some of you have had. How noticeable is it? Is it something that is so clearly wrong that anyone who isn't listening for it would say "WTF is that?!?!" or is it something more subtle and you have to be listening for it.

I have a mild drone at certain RPMs but I can't tell if it's normal sounds for the truck or something going on with the ANC.

Mine was noticable initially, before the speaker swap, up to the “what the heck is that?” level, but I believe now it has gotten worse and so loud as to be barely driveable now. Vibrates the truck, I speculate people outside the truck could hear it though I haven’t tested this. @wildh24 may be on to something...

 

[Patsy1099]

https://pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ch41

I paid 180 on eBay. I'm only using it for the sub channel but have no issues.

I think crutchfield is still working on what does and doesn't work. They say multiple speakers don't fit when the do.

The nice thing about the Amppro is that you aren't cutting into a bunch of wires so you could always unhook and return if it's not doing what you need it to and you're back to square one. Multiple members of the forum have used it for sub replacements and I haven't seen any problems.... And I've read nearly every stereo related thread.

Wild which system did your Ram come with? I’m reading this compatibility note from PAC and am just wondering if it will work with my stock 6 speaker system since I only have a single integrated amp and not the two amp setup like I believe the alpine/hk configs have.

Compatibility Note: This product is compatible with data-bus controlled amplified systems only. To identify these systems, look for logos on door speakers, tweeters, dash speakers or the subwoofer to confirm if the vehicle has a compatible amplified system: Alpine, Beats or Harman Kardon. Vehicle manufacturers do not always brand compatible systems. Unbranded amplified systems are generally identified by locating a center channel speaker or subwoofer.

UPDATE: just heard back from aamp tech support and they said the AP4 will not work with the base 6 speaker setup. Anyone here know otherwise?

 

[grooves12]

Hey @Patsy1099 I would agree with @wildh24, whether or nor you spend the time running wire is up to you depending on how high your expectations are. I have high standards but have limited my expectations to my time/money budget... went in knowing I would stop at a speaker swap even if the sound wasn’t perfect. And he’s right, pulling the panels again is not bad after you learn the drill.


Mine was noticable initially, before the speaker swap, up to the “what the heck is that?” level, but I believe now it has gotten worse and so loud as to be barely driveable now. Vibrates the truck, I speculate people outside the truck could hear it though I haven’t tested this. @wildh24 may be on to something...

Ok, mine is definitely not that... it is a subtle sound at low RPMs. I'm guessing it's the MDS drone many complain about.

 

[grooves12]

UPDATE: just heard back from aamp tech support and they said the AP4 will not work with the base 6 speaker setup. Anyone here know otherwise?

It definitely will not work. The Alpine/HK systems output flat low-level signals from the radio and use the canbus to control the installed amps for volume/eq/etc. The AP4 essentially duplicates the functionality of the amp and requires flat inputs and canbus input to control it. The base system outputs amplified speaker signals from the radio without the canbus radio controls, the ANC acts as a DSP and adds the noise-cancelling to the signal, and sends to the combined signal to the speakers.

However, what you can do (and what I am about to do today during my subwoofer install) is use the T-harness from the AP4 and splice into it before the ANC module (The ANC module has same connectors as the AMP in the Alpine system) to get a high-level speaker signal. You can output this directly to your amps (if they accept speaker-level inputs) or send those signals to a lineout converter before passing them on to your amps. I'll document my install and post it later.

 

[Billet1500 4x4]

I am curious... the ANC speaker drone some of you have had. How noticeable is it? Is it something that is so clearly wrong that anyone who isn't listening for it would say "WTF is that?!?!" or is it something more subtle and you have to be listening for it.

I have a mild drone at certain RPMs but I can't tell if it's normal sounds for the truck or something going on with the ANC.

Mine drove me nuts, But I have OCD when it comes to noises that are not supposed to be there, rattles, squeaks vibrations whatever they may be. Here's a video I posted in a different thread in regards to the drone from the ANC. It statrted about 2500 RPM and continued on up to about 3000 RPM while parked. It was most prevalent at about 70 mph on the freeway with cruise control set.

https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/subwoofer-swap.2265/post-55813

 

[Billet1500 4x4]

Please Help!!! I have installed the JBL 6x9 in all four doors and now I am getting the drone with ANC at certain rpms. I have the Speaker Pop app on the iphone but have no idea how to use it to make sure all the speakers are right.

The odds are all 4 door speakers need the polarity swapped. Start reading on page 10 of this thread, Post 199 has a picture of the adapter and whats required to swap polarity. Use a 9V batter to check your stock speakers polarity and make sure the positive terminal is connected to the same wire the factory speaker positive terminal was connected to.

https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/5th-gen-stock-stereo-upgrade-options.926/post-57680

 

[Patsy1099]

It definitely will not work. The Alpine/HK systems output flat low-level signals from the radio and use the canbus to control the installed amps for volume/eq/etc. The AP4 essentially duplicates the functionality of the amp and requires flat inputs and canbus input to control it. The base system outputs amplified speaker signals from the radio without the canbus radio controls, the ANC acts as a DSP and adds the noise-cancelling to the signal, and sends to the combined signal to the speakers.

However, what you can do (and what I am about to do today during my subwoofer install) is use the T-harness from the AP4 and splice into it before the ANC module (The ANC module has same connectors as the AMP in the Alpine system) to get a high-level speaker signal. You can output this directly to your amps (if they accept speaker-level inputs) or send those signals to a lineout converter before passing them on to your amps. I'll document my install and post it later.

Thank you. Interested. Please post your results!

 

[WRH]

Can @WRH @YoAdrian or anyone else comment on the above? Any suggestions on amp solution that will be the easiest install from a headache standpoint? I don’t mind disconnecting stuff and rewiring but I would prefer to do things once and not have to rip things apart again. I also don’t want anything that will be glitchy or give me headaches with things not working. I prefer it as bulletproof as possible.

Thanks guys.

My stock six speaker upgrade sounds great now. I have the quad cab, so my bass situation could be better. Right now I have a small box on the rear floor (Pioneer 10 inch). Those small powered ones that fit under the seat are too wimpy for me, and nobody makes a box that would fit behind the back seat on drivers side, which is where I'd like to eventually put it. My amps and crossover are behind the rear passenger seat.

I removed the ANC completely. I honestly can't say if it made a different or not. I think I listen to my music loud enough road noise is not a factor anyways. Nothing stood out to me before or after I removed it. Even just driving without the stereo. My wife didn't comment when I disabled it without telling her. I wanted to see'd say, geez, why is the truck so loud. Nope. Nothing.

I can't speak to a speaker only replacement as I added an amp and Maestro. The Maestro in Universal mode works great. I have full control over the sound (levels, crossover, timing, etc). I used the recommended harness for the 9 speaker system and flipped two wires on the harness to match it up correctly. They tried to tell me I needed a different harness but that won't work as easy. The CH4 is the one you want but just make sure to look at the diagram and match up each speaker correctly. You won't have to crimp or anything. If I remember right, two of the rears need to be connected different than the colors on the harness.

I run on 7 channels: 2 two rear doors, 2 two front doors, and two to dash (for the 3.5s and tweeters). Two amps (rear on a smaller amp, 5 channel for the rest). I have a passive crossover for the tweeter/3.5 combo, and using the Maestro active crossover for the rest. My sound is bright and it needs some more tuning. But man, there is no comparison with the system I started with. I def like mine better than the 9 speaker system. I've not heard the 19 setup so can't compare, but from what I've heard some like the 9 better than that one anyways.

I ran new speaker wire. I'd say def not necessary if you are just replacing speakers. I could prob have gotten away with the existing wires, but decided since I'm pushing 100 watts to each speaker to go ahead with it. It took me all weekend to install everything. Running wire through the door grommets and through the pillar for back speakers was the biggest hassle (use some silicone lube, it'll help a ton). I ran everything (including 12 volt from battery, coax, power for amp switch, etc) along the drivers side under the plastic step along the bottom of the door. Maestro is under drivers seat. I ordered the generic door speaker mounts that are like $10 or so and tossed them. Too flimsy. And nobody made anything so it was an excuse to buy a router, learn how to use it, and make my own (out of 1/2" birch). I wouldn't have done the "make my own" if I did it again. At first I removed the black panel behind the rear seat, but turns out everything works fine with it in and helps keep the road noise down. No cutting/modifications needed. The amps don't overheat, everything works/looks great.

I wish I'd have taken a bunch of pictures/vids as I did it to help out. Removed the door panels many times during the process and every damn time was afraid I was going to break something. Used existing nuts in the truck frame (the ones for the factory sub which I didn't have--also grounded my amps there) to mount my amp panel (also made out of 1/2 birch).

I went with Hybrid Audio Unity Speakers that had been installed in my Tacoma. Used the Alpine PDX-V9 (also was in Tacoma) and added an Alpine KTP-445U.

 

[Patsy1099]

Wrh thank you. That’s a huge help. At least I have a vision of what I’m looking at if I go that route.

 

[Walski]

I got this loop back harness from llj customs.it plugs into your deck then you snap the harness that normally goes into your deck in the other connector.it takes your speaker wire and remote back to whatever you use”I’ll be using a audio control lci7. Then returns from amps up to the harness out to your speakers

 

[Redline96]

Walski,

While that harness looks decent and I'm sure it will work, And I'm guessing you have the base 6 speaker setup? no factory amp with factory ANC unit?

Using my method accomplishes the same thing only MUCH easier. with my harness setup as described earlier in the thread Its all done right under the drivers seat.

absolutely NO need to pull dash apart to get at the radio connectors and much less wire to run as you could put the LC7 right under the seat. All speakers in and out are right there. You could even keep the ANC active if you wanted but honestly I don't even notice any difference not running it.

Just my thought and opinion and I'm curious to seeing your setup

 

[Walski]

Walski,

While that harness looks decent and I'm sure it will work, And I'm guessing you have the base 6 speaker setup? no factory amp with factory ANC unit?

Using my method accomplishes the same thing only MUCH easier. with my harness setup as described earlier in the thread Its all done right under the drivers seat.

absolutely NO need to pull dash apart to get at the radio connectors and much less wire to run as you could put the LC7 right under the seat. All speakers in and out are right there. You could even keep the ANC active if you wanted but honestly I don't even notice any difference not running it.

Just my thought and opinion and I'm curious to seeing your setup

I have no anc and could not find any wires under the seat. So I figured this would be the easiest cleanest route for what I want. Still not sure on subs or amps. I’m leaning towards sundown sa in the fox box.not sure about amps or speakers any suggestions would be nice

 

[Redline96]

that would explain that then.. No ANC under seat would most likely mean no wires there either. lol

I'm no amp expert so I wouldn't be any help there. I've been out of car audio for a long time and slowly getting back into it. I have an Audio control d4-800 with built in DSP so I wouldn't need anything extra in the system. no need for LC7 or anything else since the Amp has it all built in. I chose to use the high level from radio directly to amp and let the processor do its thing.

I have removed it though and since decided to install equipment into my car instead. The factory radio with aftermarket speakers all around sound plenty good enough for now. I'm trying to set up a much more serious system in my car so my experimenting on the truck has taken a back seat for a bit.

 

[EJanx07]

I just picked up a 5.7 4x4 Quad Cab Bighorn. Although I love the truck, I wanted the 9 speaker system but there wasn't an option for it. I drove straight from the dealer to Car Toys and got their input, but wasn't confident enough in their suggestions. I think I'll do this myself.

As I've been poking around trying to decide the best way to upgrade, I've found a few things.

First, there is an amp looking device under the drivers seat. I'm not sure what this is... does anyone know? Car toys thought this was an amp, but I'm guessing my feeds are coming from the deck rather than an amp. I'm thinking this is not related to the stereo. (Pic attached.) That would rule out an amp under the drivers seat.

I could do an amp or small sub under passenger seat, but that is where the tools are located. That could be an option once IN get my canopy and some storage to move the tools...

I don't want to install under the back seats. Not really room, and I use that for storage. I don't need a big sub anyways. That leaves the small area behind the back seats. Once I pick up an eTorx to remove them, I'll see what room is back there. Incidentally, I don't think the Fold the Back Seat mod will work because I'm not seeing the back seats move at all when I lift or drop the seat.

I do notice an open harness near the floor, about in the middle of the seats. I wonder if that is the wiring for a sub that I don't have? Does anyone have any ideas what this open harness might be. Is this where the sub is located on the 9 speaker systems? Man, that'd be nice if I could somehow buy that sub and pop it in...

Any tips or suggestions would be soooo appreciated. There is really very little information on the stereos in this new 2019s. I'm guessing that for the actual speaker layout, not much has changed.... but not sure. I def need more sound though! I could live without a sub, and go 6x9s and an amp, but hope I can find a way to get a small sub somewhere in there. I had a shallow mount 10" behind the back seats in my Tacoma that worked great.

Thanks!
-Warren

Were you able to figure out, what the extra harness was for? I just got my 2019, with base level stereo. I want to add a amp and sub, but worried about the ANC causing issues. Thanks!