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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

vinnie45acp

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Is there any way a 4” coaxial could fit in all these areas that have all the 3.5”, I have so many mor choices in the are 4” categories. I understand it might require a little modification, but if that’s all that is needed, then I could go with some other choices.
 

vinnie45acp

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Also we know the HK system is 900w which is probably peak, so does anyone know what the Sub is rated, mounting depth, etc. at or what kind of watts are being distributed to the Sub woofer? Also can you tell me what the watt distribution is to the stock speakers in the HK system
 

ET32913

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It has been a couple months since I did them so I can't remember for sure. 6 or 8 mm I think. I dont remember seeing a phillips head on them, you wouldn't be able to get in with a screwdriver anyway because it is too close to the glass. Had to use a small ratchet and socket.

A finger bit driver can come in suuuuuuper handy :) Or a mini socket set will work too!
IMG_5162.jpg
 

lrobbi

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Can you link the corner speakers and door speakers? I am in the same boat you are, i would do something more elaborate but I'm getting old and i want a simple good sounding system. Thanks in advance.

I believe the speakers in the dash/Corner are ran I parallel with the front door speakers. I understand... keeping it simple, I had my neighbor listen to the system before and after. Playing the same music before and after... different types of music. He was very impressed with the difference, and that little subwoofer is a big factor to bring in that little punch that's missing. Much more enjoyable.
 

lrobbi

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This is a dumb question but did you have to run a wire from the battery?
Yes, I used 8ga. with a 35 amp fuse from the battery. Very simple, you can easily thread it through the large grommet next to the steering column. Gently slice/cut and or poke a whole... place a flashlight in the engine bay so you can see where it comes out. Thread your gauge wire through and your half way home.
 

Walski

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I currently have jl c2 6x9 in front doors and 3.5 in dash I’m getting a second set 6x9 for rear door.i just purchased a loop back harness from llj customs that connects to factory deck and Brings speaker leads to the back where I will put an audio control 7i and returns them to the deck. I will be purchasing a fox box for 2 12” subs. Not sure what subs I’ll be running yet. I have the base 6 speaker no anc system. Probably will run a Fosgate prime 400.4 for the speakers and also Fosgate amp for subs. I’m torn between jl 12w3 sundown sa12 and memphis brx 12’s or possibly kicker q class.any recommend on subs?
 
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tuner1129

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Yes, I used 8ga. with a 35 amp fuse from the battery. Very simple, you can easily thread it through the large grommet next to the steering column. Gently slice/cut and or poke a whole... place a flashlight in the engine bay so you can see where it comes out. Thread your gauge wire through and your half way home.
Thanks, I'm in the process of redoing this 6 speakers system.
 

YoAdrian

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Ok thanks. I see lots on this thread are using 4ohms in the dash. Since the stock dash speakers are 8 ohms wouldnt 4 ohms dash have significantly more volume than stock causing the entire system to sound inbalance ?
I originally wondered the same thing... lots of theory behind it all, but simply put a -3dB lower sensitivity rating offsets the half impedance (4 vs 8) difference.

My JL C2s have a low sensitivity (86dB?) and I think they ended up sounding very well balanced when matched with the C2 6x9s in the doors (93 or 96? can’t recall), which have a fairly high sensitivity. The numbers are in my ancient post or on Crotchfield.
 

Cmiller18y

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I just swapped over some memphis 3.5s on my dash and JBL GX963s in my doors. I had the 6 speaker system. I had to disconnect the ANC mic wires because it created a drone through the speakers.
 

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lrobbi

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Did you try to see if that would fit up against the back wall ala the stock sub in the 9-speaker system?
No I didn't... I dont mind the position of it under the seat, I might make a removable hard cover that is breathable - a quick upgrade.
 

someguy

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I have the 6-speaker system in my RAM. NEEDED cleaner bass
Went with a smaller footprint.

My goal was to take up as little room as possible and improve on the current sound stage along with adding a little more bottom.

So far no problems with this setup, NO Phase/Polarity Issues or ANC issues. I have been running this for about two weeks or more… blown away!! (I am an old Certified Car Audio Installer and use to compete in IASAC competitor ….Many many years ago.)

For the dash I went with the Hertz DCX 3.5. Sound is GREAT. Those really livened the front up – they gave the front a solid SOUND Stage.

ALL doors, I installed some mid-bass, CDT HD-690CFS2 2 ohm – these do well in the mid-base and mid-range up to 7000 hertz. Very accurate mid-bass.

The Subwoofer is powered slim Cerwin Vega Subwoofer VPAS10 10”

Extremely happy with this setup, Night and day over the stock speakers and adding that subwoofer filled in the sound that was missing. The CDT Speakers are amazing… the mid bass is super. This is with a FACTORY Stereo… I cannot imagine what they would sound like with a 50w RMS amp to them… EPIC I would bet…. But for this and for well under $640.00 I am pretty happy with this. Enough Sub and mid bass and remains clean in the higher volume levels… WINNER WINNER… Chicken Dinner.

IF I was to do more in my YOUNGER days, switch the Subwoofer to a JL Audio Dual 10” setup with a great amplifier… that would be about it. This is a great COMBO as it is.

Great info... thank you for posting that. What drove you to the CDT HD-690CFS.2 vs the Hertz DCX 130.3 or Infiniti Reference F-5032cfx? And likewise for the Hertz DCX vs the Infiniti Reference 3.5"?

That mobile sub is cool. Any reason you went for the 10" vs 12"?

Thanks in advance
 

lrobbi

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Great info... thank you for posting that. What drove you to the CDT HD-690CFS.2 vs the Hertz DCX 130.3 or Infiniti Reference F-5032cfx? And likewise for the Hertz DCX vs the Infiniti Reference 3.5"?

That mobile sub is cool. Any reason you went for the 10" vs 12"?

Thanks in advance

Hi - thanks for asking, the DCX 130.3 and the infinity 5032cfx are great speakers. But both being 5.25” I felt I would not achieve the mid bass I would from a 6x9. Those two provide great mid-range – then my problem was; they are going to bring down my sound stage from being on my dash to in my lap, where the steering wheel is. This is my reason for not going with a coaxial component style speaker. The sound stage just would not be high enough for my taste. The CDT CL 69S only go up to about 7K Hz before they drop off drastically. With the brightness of the Hertz DCX in the dash – this brings and keeps that stage up higher. Also very little gap of center imaging. I will most likely add a center channel speaker to this setup… After I play around and kick around a few ideas. Another benefit of the CDT CL 69S is there 2 ohm availability. (they come in either 4 or 2 ohm upon request) Keeping my overall volume the same, there sensitivity 89.4. My mistake on my original post I put CDT HD 690CFS… I went with the CL-69S.

For the subwoofer, I was hoping to make the smallest foot print possible and not go through too much of tearing down the rear seats and designing/fabricating a custom box from scratch. I was leaning toward the JL Audio CS110LG-Tw3 or the ACP110LG-Tw1 both are great! But the size was more than I wanted to give up in placement of the enclosure.

Hope this info is helpful
 

someguy

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Hi - thanks for asking, the DCX 130.3 and the infinity 5032cfx are great speakers. But both being 5.25” I felt I would not achieve the mid bass I would from a 6x9. Those two provide great mid-range – then my problem was; they are going to bring down my sound stage from being on my dash to in my lap, where the steering wheel is. This is my reason for not going with a coaxial component style speaker. The sound stage just would not be high enough for my taste. The CDT CL 69S only go up to about 7K Hz before they drop off drastically. With the brightness of the Hertz DCX in the dash – this brings and keeps that stage up higher. Also very little gap of center imaging. I will most likely add a center channel speaker to this setup… After I play around and kick around a few ideas. Another benefit of the CDT CL 69S is there 2 ohm availability. (they come in either 4 or 2 ohm upon request) Keeping my overall volume the same, there sensitivity 89.4. My mistake on my original post I put CDT HD 690CFS… I went with the CL-69S.

For the subwoofer, I was hoping to make the smallest foot print possible and not go through too much of tearing down the rear seats and designing/fabricating a custom box from scratch. I was leaning toward the JL Audio CS110LG-Tw3 or the ACP110LG-Tw1 both are great! But the size was more than I wanted to give up in placement of the enclosure.

Hope this info is helpful

This is extremely helpful. Thank you for the well thought out response. You no doubt have a lot of experience here and I like the way you thought this through with emphasis on the sound stage. I may copy your setup if you don't mind!
 

lrobbi

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This is extremely helpful. Thank you for the well thought out response. You no doubt have a lot of experience here and I like the way you thought this through with emphasis on the sound stage. I may copy your setup if you don't mind!

Absolutely...let me know if you have other questions or if you need a link.
 

SacRebel

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Does this look like the wiring harness for the dash speakers?

bbb39ca80b478834820c327957ab88c6.jpg
 

TVANVA

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No, it looks like the connector for the door speakers. Be aware of polarity issues if this is an adapter. Some swapping of connector pins may be required. See previous posts on Metra connectors.
 

someguy

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Absolutely...let me know if you have other questions or if you need a link.

Thanks.

I bought an exact copy of your setup, getting most of it on eBay except for the few metra harnesses. The newest ones, also listed on Crutchfield, are a little hard to find (and could only find the Metra 71-050 on Crutchfield).

All in all it came out to $650 and that is with the TruConnex TC4KIT-8B wiring kit for the amp/sub. I think this should blow away the stock 6 speaker and perhaps all the way up to the HK factory setup as well (from what I've been hearing).

I also think going with 6x9s is definitely the path to take over 5.25" and one of the main reasons I decided to follow the build you laid out. So thanks again for taking the time to do that. Any trimming necessary on them? On the sub, I was tempted to go for the 12" over the 10", but went ahead and kept that the same since I'm mostly a rock kinda guy anyway - it's also very cheap right now at around $160.

It'll be fun to get it installed and hear it. I may do it myself or have a shop do it if I can see they do quality work at a reasonable price. Did you splice or tap anywhere for the sub 12V?

Also, I want to make sure, did you buy a 2 Ohm Hertz or is it configurable to that? All I can see are 4 Ohm.
 
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lrobbi

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Thanks.

I bought an exact copy of your setup, getting most of it on eBay except for the few metra harnesses. The newest ones, also listed on Crutchfield, are a little hard to find (and could only find the Metra 71-050 on Crutchfield).

All in all it came out to $650 and that is with the TruConnex TC4KIT-8B wiring kit for the amp/sub. I think this should blow away the stock 6 speaker and perhaps all the way up to the HK factory setup as well (from what I've been hearing).

I also think going with 6x9s is definitely the path to take over 5.25" and one of the main reasons I decided to follow the build you laid out. So thanks again for taking the time to do that. Any trimming necessary on them? On the sub, I was tempted to go for the 12" over the 10", but went ahead and kept that the same since I'm mostly a rock kinda guy anyway - it's also very cheap right now at around $160.

It'll be fun to get it installed and hear it. I may do it myself or have a shop do it if I can see they do quality work at a reasonable price. Did you splice or tap anywhere for the sub 12V?

Also, I want to make sure, did you buy a 2 Ohm Hertz or is it configurable to that? All I can see are 4 Ohm.


Great.
No trimming needed for the DCX 3.5 Hertz Speakers. No trimming for the CDT speakers as well that go into the door.

You will be able to get the 12V power easily by threading the 8ga wire through the engine bay wall through the large grommet next to the steering column. That is super easy... small slit in that grommet with a sharp razor and your good to go. (Fuse it at the battery) Super easy as well.

Soon as you buy the 6x9 CDT speakers. SEND AN EMAIL TO THE EMAIL ADDRESS on there website — tell them your order number and you want the 2 Ohm version. They will see that and acknowledge your request.

If you have any questions about the installation. I don’t mind sending you more pictures and or speaking over the phone. This is an easy upgraded system that sounds well balanced and incredibly. Again it will not shake the feelings loose in your mouth but man it’s tough to beat for the price. I ordered most of the items from Amazon and Crutchfield ... and CDT.

More questions... please ask ... I am an accessory type guy and don’t mind helping out. If I don’t know or have the answer - I will tell you “sorry that is over my pay grade”.

Lewis
Thanks
 

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