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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

Great.
No trimming needed for the DCX 3.5 Hertz Speakers. No trimming for the CDT speakers as well that go into the door.

You will be able to get the 12V power easily by threading the 8ga wire through the engine bay wall through the large grommet next to the steering column. That is super easy... small slit in that grommet with a sharp razor and your good to go. (Fuse it at the battery) Super easy as well.

Soon as you buy the 6x9 CDT speakers. SEND AN EMAIL TO THE EMAIL ADDRESS on there website — tell them your order number and you want the 2 Ohm version. They will see that and acknowledge your request.

If you have any questions about the installation. I don’t mind sending you more pictures and or speaking over the phone. This is an easy upgraded system that sounds well balanced and incredibly. Again it will not shake the feelings loose in your mouth but man it’s tough to beat for the price. I ordered most of the items from Amazon and Crutchfield ... and CDT.

More questions... please ask ... I am an accessory type guy and don’t mind helping out. If I don’t know or have the answer - I will tell you “sorry that is over my pay grade”.

Lewis
Thanks

Thanks for all your help. Truly appreciate it.

I'm basically a greenhorn to the car audio scene so forgive my ignorance here, but on wiring the sub, is there an integrated relay or something that will turn it on with ACC power or should I fusetap a relay on ACC that will switch the sub on from the 12V connection at the battery? I'm assuming there is an integrated relay since the AMP kit I bought comes with what looks to be around 22 AWG "turn on wire."
 
Thanks for all your help. Truly appreciate it.

I'm basically a greenhorn to the car audio scene so forgive my ignorance here, but on wiring the sub, is there an integrated relay or something that will turn it on with ACC power or should I fusetap a relay on ACC that will switch the sub on from the 12V connection at the battery? I'm assuming there is an integrated relay since the AMP kit I bought comes with what looks to be around 22 AWG "turn on wire."

Great question;
This Cerwiv Vega Mobile Powerd Amp/Sub has a built in auto sensing from the audio source. So as soon as it senses the audio the amplifier kicks on. There is no THUMP on sound either. Very smooth transition on. It has the ability to accept a auto turn lead wire, however you will not need to run that wire. One less thing to do.
 
Great question;
This Cerwiv Vega Mobile Powerd Amp/Sub has a built in auto sensing from the audio source. So as soon as it senses the audio the amplifier kicks on. There is no THUMP on sound either. Very smooth transition on. It has the ability to accept a auto turn lead wire, however you will not need to run that wire. One less thing to do.
Why all amps don't have this is beyond me!
 
I was going to check that.
My JBL doors are very low and pretty much no bass.
Thanks for checking it.
Did you notice if it made any difference in th ANC?
No more low humming bass note?
I checked this out on my truck. The rear speakers had the polarity reversed. Fixed my problem with ANC.
 
Did you try to see if that would fit up against the back wall ala the stock sub in the 9-speaker system?

I was thinking about this also, it would be really cool to hide the sub behind the rear seat and keep everything looking OEM stock.

I wonder if anyone has the dimensions of the 'factory' sub box handy (either the Alpine or HK sub) so we can understand how much room is available behind the rear seat for a sub like this CV sub?

For those of us with the 6 speaker system would like to improve on the sound, without going overboard, this seems like a great recipe!

Perhaps we can come up with a couple of options, Mild - Perhaps this recipe but without the CV sub, Medium - this recipe (including the CV sub) and then Wild (perhaps with an additional amplifier, and/or different Sub) to satisfy different tastes and budgets?

Personally, I like the idea of improving the stock system and not losing the ANC at all, I really like how quiet my truck is.

Thanks to @lrobbi for sharing his recipe for success!
 
Has anyone successfully installed an amp on the 6 speaker system while keeping the ANC and factory HU? I ordered the same system @lrobbi recommended minus the sub. Looking for ability to amplify in the future.
 
Has anyone successfully installed an amp on the 6 speaker system while keeping the ANC and factory HU? I ordered the same system @lrobbi recommended minus the sub. Looking for ability to amplify in the future.

Based on the way the system works. It's gonna be amp or ANC, but not both. Technically, you could try it but amplifying the ANC signals will likely introduce problems and lead to loud resonating in the cab.

On the plus side, if you disable ANC and add an amplified system, you can just turn your music up and you won't be hearing any road noise anyways. :)
 
Based on the way the system works. It's gonna be amp or ANC, but not both. Technically, you could try it but amplifying the ANC signals will likely introduce problems and lead to loud resonating in the cab.

On the plus side, if you disable ANC and add an amplified system, you can just turn your music up and you won't be hearing any road noise anyways. :)
Thanks. That’s sounds like the best option in the future if I find myself wanting more out of the system. Disconnect ANC and install an amp. Hoping the 2 ohm speakers will be satisfactory with the factory HU unamplified, but I’m sure those speakers will need power to shine.
 
Before the Rebel the last time I bought a new truck was 15-years ago. So I’ve been learning about all the new car technologies since. One of which has been what ANC does. So after a Google search I found this great resource on it I thought I’d pass along. Although not brand specific it does a good job of illustrating how it works.

https://www.electronicdesign.com/automotive/reducing-unwanted-noise-automobiles
 
The dash speakers on the 6 speaker system are 8 ohm and the front and rear doors are 2 ohm, They dash and front doors are wired in parallel and roughly produce an impedance of 1.6 ohms.

With that said, would I be ok replacing the dash and front door speakers with 4-ohm? And do a 2.7-ohm JBL GX963 in the rear doors?
 
Yup I think some people have done the 2.7 ohm jbls in all 6 locations without issues
Great...thanks. According to the fitment guide at Crutchfield, there's only 1 offbrand 6x9 that will fit in our front doors right now. However, it does seem that some are using the same 6x9 speakers for all doors. What's the difference in door speakers (front vs back)?
 
Great...thanks. According to the fitment guide at Crutchfield, there's only 1 offbrand 6x9 that will fit in our front doors right now. However, it does seem that some are using the same 6x9 speakers for all doors. What's the difference in door speakers (front vs back)?

I'm using infinity reference. No problem. Seems others have used all types. You just have position the harness to the side of the speaker, otherwise the window can brush it when fully open. I taped it to the basket before installing and tested the window before putting the door panel on.
 
^^^^ A note on testing the windows. If you unhook the drivers side power window/door/mirror control box and then plug it back in, there is a fairly long delay while the RAM does a hand shake with the box. I turned off car power, turned back on and waited. It eventually worked again, but takes a bit.

Just letting you know in case you get worried like I did.
 
Has anyone used the polarity tester in the free JBL iphone app instead of Speaker pop with positive results?

Never mind, free because it doesn't work and is a garbage app..
 
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What on Earth is the trick to getting the rear Headliner speaker covers off?
 

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Nevermind... Get underneath and pull like hell!
 

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Please Help!!! I have installed the JBL 6x9 in all four doors and now I am getting the drone with ANC at certain rpms. I have the Speaker Pop app on the iphone but have no idea how to use it to make sure all the speakers are right.
 

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