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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

I can confirm this is the case. The 71-050 and 72-6514 appear to have the same connector, but the wires are reversed.

No to add too much confusion but do you know if the 6514s need to be repinned before using? Or is it the 050?

Thx
 
I did 2 12tw3 JL with a JL vxi1000/5 with 6 1/2 hertz Millie pros components tweet in the dash.
 

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Looks like you kept access to the bins as well?
 
Just so I understand you right, you replaced the 6 stock speakers but did nothing else? Are you happy with the sound you're now getting?

I feel the stock speakers sound warmer and at times a little muddy. My previous truck had Kicker speakers and they sounded cleaner to me and that's the sound I prefer. So I'm trying to figure out what needs to be replaced and if I'll be happy with just a speaker swap without adding an amp.

Sorry for such a delayed response. Life got pretty busy! In the end, I replaced all 6 stock speakers. Initially, I swapped out the 2 dash speakers and rear doors. I wanted to see how the Infinitys would perform. I also came across a great deal on 2 sets of JBL GX962s so I ordered those as well.

After a week, I replaced the Infinitys with the JBL 6x9s and at 2.3 ohms vs 3 ohms (Infinity) the performance is similar. I think what really helped was installing the 2nd pair of GX962s in the front doors as well. The stock system cannot get super loud before distorting but it definitely sounds cleaner now.

Both my front and rear doors were out of phase from the dash so I switched the wire leads in my metra door harnesses. Used a small pin to release the wire leads from the connector. No issues with ANC. I think for the small amount of work (and money, it costs me around $175 for 3 sets of speakers and harnesses) this upgrade is worth it. It does leave me wanting more on the low-end. And amp and sub will be up next.
 
Sorry for such a delayed response. Life got pretty busy! In the end, I replaced all 6 stock speakers. Initially, I swapped out the 2 dash speakers and rear doors. I wanted to see how the Infinitys would perform. I also came across a great deal on 2 sets of JBL GX962s so I ordered those as well.

After a week, I replaced the Infinitys with the JBL 6x9s and at 2.3 ohms vs 3 ohms (Infinity) the performance is similar. I think what really helped was installing the 2nd pair of GX962s in the front doors as well. The stock system cannot get super loud before distorting but it definitely sounds cleaner now.

Both my front and rear doors were out of phase from the dash so I switched the wire leads in my metra door harnesses. Used a small pin to release the wire leads from the connector. No issues with ANC. I think for the small amount of work (and money, it costs me around $175 for 3 sets of speakers and harnesses) this upgrade is worth it. It does leave me wanting more on the low-end. And amp and sub will be up next.

Which Metra adapter did you use on the doors? 050 or 6514?

I ordered a full set of infinity reference speakers for the HK system. Wish me luck.
 
I have the 6-speaker system in my RAM. NEEDED cleaner bass
Went with a smaller footprint.

My goal was to take up as little room as possible and improve on the current sound stage along with adding a little more bottom.

So far no problems with this setup, NO Phase/Polarity Issues or ANC issues. I have been running this for about two weeks or more… blown away!! (I am an old Certified Car Audio Installer and use to compete in IASAC competitor ….Many many years ago.)

For the dash I went with the Hertz DCX 3.5. Sound is GREAT. Those really livened the front up – they gave the front a solid SOUND Stage.

ALL doors, I installed some mid-bass, CDT 69S 2 ohm – these do well in the mid-base and mid-range up to 7000 hertz. Very accurate mid-bass.

The Subwoofer is powered slim Cerwin Vega Subwoofer VPAS10 10”

Extremely happy with this setup, Night and day over the stock speakers and adding that subwoofer filled in the sound that was missing. The CDT Speakers are amazing… the mid bass is super. This is with a FACTORY Stereo… I cannot imagine what they would sound like with a 50w RMS amp to them… EPIC I would bet…. But for this and for well under $640.00 I am pretty happy with this. Enough Sub and mid bass and remains clean in the higher volume levels… WINNER WINNER… Chicken Dinner.

IF I was to do more in my YOUNGER days, switch the Subwoofer to a JL Audio Dual 10” setup with a great amplifier… that would be about it. This is a great COMBO as it is.
 
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I have the 6-speaker system in my RAM. NEEDED cleaner bass
Went with a smaller footprint.

My goal was to take up as little room as possible and improve on the current sound stage along with adding a little more bottom.

So far no problems with this setup, NO Phase/Polarity Issues or ANC issues. I have been running this for about two weeks or more… blown away!! (I am an old Certified Car Audio Installer and use to compete in IASAC competitor ….Many many years ago.)

For the dash I went with the Hertz DCX 3.5. Sound is GREAT. Those really livened the front up – they gave the front a solid SOUND Stage.

ALL doors, I installed some mid-bass, CDT HD-690CFS2 2 ohm – these do well in the mid-base and mid-range up to 7000 hertz. Very accurate mid-bass.

The Subwoofer is powered slim Cerwin Vega Subwoofer VPAS10 10”

Extremely happy with this setup, Night and day over the stock speakers and adding that subwoofer filled in the sound that was missing. The CDT Speakers are amazing… the mid bass is super. This is with a FACTORY Stereo… I cannot imagine what they would sound like with a 50w RMS amp to them… EPIC I would bet…. But for this and for well under $640.00 I am pretty happy with this. Enough Sub and mid bass and remains clean in the higher volume levels… WINNER WIN
NER… Chicken Dinner.


IF I was to do more in my YOUNGER days, switch the Subwoofer to a JL Audio Dual 10” setup with a great amplifier… that would be about it. This is a great COMBO as it is.

I bet it does sound awesome. I was amazed at what a different sub did.

I'm about to overhaul the speakers on the HK system. What was your process for the polarity issues? What harness did you use?
 
No to add too much confusion but do you know if the 6514s need to be repinned before using? Or is it the 050?

Thx
No. And it's unclear in all these posts if that is even worth trying to figure out - it almost seems like either the wiring is backwards or the speakers are backwards (terminals are reversed) - literally reading many places where these "alpine" speakers are used across FCA vehicles, and how there are multiple aftermarket harnesses that are wired BOTH ways ---- factor in the posts here where some people had to reverse their pin-outs and others didn't (randomly).....it really has me wondering if these trucks aren't getting an "accidental" mixture of "alpine" speakers whose terminals are wired both ways (random)! So, for me, polarity checking each speaker is in my planned routine even though I plan to replace them.

Plus I can tell you from my "app" testing of several trucks on the dealership lot on Monday, the wiring is all over the place in some form. Only two trucks were the same - only passenger side doors were reversed. In the other two trucks, 1) all doors were reversed and passenger side dash was reversed, and 2) the two rear doors were reversed only.

Again, really makes me wonder that since the 71-050 and 71-6514 harnesses are wired opposite, and there seems to be random polarity issues in these trucks, perhaps we have a mixture of alpine speakers in circulation that are reverse of each other...Hmm. Seems far fetched, but....is it??? :unsure:
 
Just something to think about.

I had my Bighorn in for warranty work and had a 19 classic Bighorn as a loaner. The sound in that base 6 was miles better. Could not remember much of a difference till the jump.

Just thinking they swapped polarity on different speakers down the line to correct the ANC issues we experience with these systems. That’s the only thing I can think why the polarity is all over the board. The Gen 4’s sound definitely got louder and real bassy ( crappy bass, but none the less)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
No. And it's unclear in all these posts if that is even worth trying to figure out - it almost seems like either the wiring is backwards or the speakers are backwards (terminals are reversed) - literally reading many places where these "alpine" speakers are used across FCA vehicles, and how there are multiple aftermarket harnesses that are wired BOTH ways ---- factor in the posts here where some people had to reverse their pin-outs and others didn't (randomly).....it really has me wondering if these trucks aren't getting an "accidental" mixture of "alpine" speakers whose terminals are wired both ways (random)! So, for me, polarity checking each speaker is in my planned routine even though I plan to replace them.

Plus I can tell you from my "app" testing of several trucks on the dealership lot on Monday, the wiring is all over the place in some form. Only two trucks were the same - only passenger side doors were reversed. In the other two trucks, 1) all doors were reversed and passenger side dash was reversed, and 2) the two rear doors were reversed only.

Again, really makes me wonder that since the 71-050 and 71-6514 harnesses are wired opposite, and there seems to be random polarity issues in these trucks, perhaps we have a mixture of alpine speakers in circulation that are reverse of each other...Hmm. Seems far fetched, but....is it??? :unsure:

What are you using to check polarity? An app? I played around with two yesterday with very inconsistent results so I don't know how reliable the apps are. Wondering if you have a better solution.
 
I used the 71-050 - ensured all the polarities was correct from the wires to the factory speakers. I did the old 9V battery test and then listed careful after installation prior to placing the door panel skins back on. The 71-050 - PERFECT.
 
What are you using to check polarity? An app? I played around with two yesterday with very inconsistent results so I don't know how reliable the apps are. Wondering if you have a better solution.
Speaker pop - worked well for me - but I did not use an aux cable, I burned the pop signal to CD (there are audio files available for download) and turned the volume way up and was able to get consistent signals past "good".
 
For the few folks who may just want to add amplifier.... Here are the pics of where I connected to get a line audio "IN" line to the amplifier. Again, No ANC issues what so ever.
Drivers Side.... kick panel removal and the wires are located there, gently pull off the black OEM tape and go through the big bundle of wires twisted together you will find the Dark Grey wire with Yellow stripe (+) and the Grey wire with Purple stripe (-) Splice into those... you have your left signal.

Passanger Side... Kick panel removal - as you go up the wall sits a wire harness... patch right into the twisted Dark Green with Yellow stripe (+) and next is the Dark Green with Purple stripe (-) ... done deal.

Run those under the carpet neatly and on to your Amplifier..

IMG_6651.jpgIMG_6648.jpg
 
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Speaker pop - worked well for me - but I did not use an aux cable, I burned the pop signal to CD (there are audio files available for download) and turned the volume way up and was able to get consistent signals past "good".

That's the iPhone one. I was using two different versions on Android. I'll try again when I have more time.
 
That's the iPhone one. I was using two different versions on Android. I'll try again when I have more time.
Were you running the pop sound through the aux cable? I read (and watched on youtube) that burning to a CD resulted in better results, so I just did it that way.
 
That's the iPhone one. I was using two different versions on Android. I'll try again when I have more time.
Both of the Android apps were inconsistent for me. Finally download the Speaker Pop app on my wife's iPad and it was much more consistent.
 
Ok. Might have to dig out my old iPad. Not sure it still works.
 

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