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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

The ones I checked, it seemed the driver side doors were in phase.
Dash L&R in phase.
Center out phase.
Those seemed pretty consistent.

The passenger door was inconsistent.

I didn't do the back. I'll try again and hopefully get better results.
 
Which Metra adapter did you use on the doors? 050 or 6514?

I ordered a full set of infinity reference speakers for the HK system. Wish me luck.

Good luck, I think you’ll enjoy the upgraded speakers. You know, for as much these trucks cost, a few extra bucks for higher quality speakers would go a long way!

I used the 6514 harness. Verified the positive wire using the 9v battery test on the oem speakers....all four doors were phased opposite from my dash speakers. That’s no longer the case.
 
For the few folks who may just want to add amplifier.... Here are the pics of where I connected to get a line audio "IN" line to the amplifier. Again, No ANC issues what so ever.
Drivers Side.... kick panel removal and the wires are located there, gently pull off the black OEM tape and go through the big bundle of wires twisted together you will find the Dark Grey wire with Yellow stripe (+) and the Grey wire with Purple stripe (-) Splice into those... you have your left signal.

Passanger Side... Kick panel removal - as you go up the wall sits a wire harness... patch right into the twisted Dark Green with Yellow stripe (+) and next is the Dark Green with Purple stripe (-) ... done deal.

Run those under the carpet neatly and on to your Amplifier..

View attachment 15509View attachment 15510
i assume those are the rear door speaker wires?
 
Good luck, I think you’ll enjoy the upgraded speakers. You know, for as much these trucks cost, a few extra bucks for higher quality speakers would go a long way!

I used the 6514 harness. Verified the positive wire using the 9v battery test on the oem speakers....all four doors were phased opposite from my dash speakers. That’s no longer the case.

So you reversed the pins on the 6514s?
 
Yes, I put JBL GX302s in the dash. They fit fine, but you will have to snip the ends of the mounting tabs just a little to get them to sit flush. They sound way better than the stock speakers. I'm about to put them in my headliner as well.
Do you remember what size the bolts holding the speakers into the dash are? Removal is just popped off the grill and unscrewing speakers correct?
 
So you reversed the pins on the 6514s?

Yes, used a scribe-type tool to release the pins and swap them over.

Do you remember what size the bolts holding the speakers into the dash are? Removal is just popped off the grill and unscrewing speakers correct?

They are a phillips-type screw as well. Don't remember what size socket they are but they take a phillips bit as well.
 
Do you remember what size the bolts holding the speakers into the dash are? Removal is just popped off the grill and unscrewing speakers correct?
Yes, used a scribe-type tool to release the pins and swap them over.



They are a phillips-type screw as well. Don't remember what size socket they are but they take a phillips bit as well.

It has been a couple months since I did them so I can't remember for sure. 6 or 8 mm I think. I dont remember seeing a phillips head on them, you wouldn't be able to get in with a screwdriver anyway because it is too close to the glass. Had to use a small ratchet and socket.
 
I've been looking at different upgrade options. I know from previous experience just doing a speaker swap isn't the best solution as the stock head unit will have insufficient power to power the new speakers.

With that said I'm considering adding a 4-channel power pack (JL or Alpine) behind the dash to power new door speakers and replace the dash speakers but keep them powered off the head unit. Both power packs provide around 50-watts RMS, which would be the bare minimum for 6x9's that run 150-watts RMS.

My question is in regards to the door speakers. I won't be adding a sub so I'll have to rely on the door speakers for low end. For those that have replaced them with 2 or 3-way are you finding sufficient bass and did you add an amp?
 
I've been looking at different upgrade options. I know from previous experience just doing a speaker swap isn't the best solution as the stock head unit will have insufficient power to power the new speakers.

With that said I'm considering adding a 4-channel power pack (JL or Alpine) behind the dash to power new door speakers and replace the dash speakers but keep them powered off the head unit. Both power packs provide around 50-watts RMS, which would be the bare minimum for 6x9's that run 150-watts RMS.

My question is in regards to the door speakers. I won't be adding a sub so I'll have to rely on the door speakers for low end. For those that have replaced them with 2 or 3-way are you finding sufficient bass and did you add an amp?

The dash speakers are wired in parallel with the front doors, You're going to have to find that junction and split it or pull new wire. If you're going that route you want to look at a 3 way component set, Run from the front channels on the amp to the cross over and let the cross over do its work to send signals out to the dash and doors.
 
The dash speakers are wired in parallel with the front doors, You're going to have to find that junction and split it or pull new wire. If you're going that route you want to look at a 3 way component set, Run from the front channels on the amp to the cross over and let the cross over do its work to send signals out to the dash and doors.

Errr... nothing is easy with these trucks is it. Thanks for the heads up!
 
Errr... nothing is easy with these trucks is it. Thanks for the heads up!
Lol nope, that's why they used an 8 ohm speaker in the dash on the base 6 speaker system. A 2 ohm would have brought the impedance down too far. The bright side is with you can run 4 ohm door speakers paralleled with 4 ohm dash speakers , which is what just about every aftermarket car speaker made is
 
What ohms and watts are the stock front doors and rear doors? I'm trying to decide what to buy and if I would need an amp.
 
Ok thanks. I see lots on this thread are using 4ohms in the dash. Since the stock dash speakers are 8 ohms wouldnt 4 ohms dash have significantly more volume than stock causing the entire system to sound inbalance ?
 
Crutchfield is saying the JBL GX302 are unavailable. Do you think they’ve been discontinued or they’re just out of stock? I see the Club 3020 but don’t know how they’d compare.

GX 302
edge-driven soft balanced dome tweeter
power range: 2-25 watts RMS (75 watts peak power)
frequency response: 90-21,000 Hz
impedance: 2.3 ohms
sensitivity: 89 dB

Club 3020
edge-driven PEI balanced dome tweeter
handles up to 20 watts RMS (60 watts peak power)
frequency response: 90-20,000 Hz
impedance: 3 ohms
sensitivity: 86.5 dB
 
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Crutchfield is saying the JBL GX302 are unavailable. Do you think they’ve been discontinued or they’re just out of stock? I see the Club 3020 but don’t know how they’d compare.

GX 302
edge-driven soft balanced dome tweeter
power range: 2-25 watts RMS (75 watts peak power)
frequency response: 90-21,000 Hz
impedance: 2.3 ohms
sensitivity: 89 dB

Club 3020
edge-driven PEI balanced dome tweeter
handles up to 20 watts RMS (60 watts peak power)
frequency response: 90-20,000 Hz
impedance: 3 ohms
sensitivity: 86.5 dB
Try Amazon 49 dollars prime no adapters though
 
Ok thanks. I see lots on this thread are using 4ohms in the dash. Since the stock dash speakers are 8 ohms wouldnt 4 ohms dash have significantly more volume than stock causing the entire system to sound inbalance ?
If you replace the doors with 4 ohm and dash with 4 ohm they are paralleled on the 6 speaker system so you'll have a 2 ohm load
 
From what I’ve read it appears the GX302’s are discontinued with the JBL Club 3020 as the replacement. I’m gonna order them from Amazon as they’re only $40.

Amazon doesn’t have the Metra 72-7902 wiring harness. Amazon has the DKMUS harness, which appears to be the same. Can anyone verify of these will work in lieu of the Metra harness?

DKMUS 2 X Pairs Wire Cable Wiring Harness for Chrysler Dodge Vehicles Speakers Adapter Connector Adaptor Plug

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072FKT4TZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_o6XxCb7YG45QZ
 
I have the 6-speaker system in my RAM. NEEDED cleaner bass
Went with a smaller footprint.

My goal was to take up as little room as possible and improve on the current sound stage along with adding a little more bottom.

So far no problems with this setup, NO Phase/Polarity Issues or ANC issues. I have been running this for about two weeks or more… blown away!! (I am an old Certified Car Audio Installer and use to compete in IASAC competitor ….Many many years ago.)

For the dash I went with the Hertz DCX 3.5. Sound is GREAT. Those really livened the front up – they gave the front a solid SOUND Stage.

ALL doors, I installed some mid-bass, CDT HD-690CFS2 2 ohm – these do well in the mid-base and mid-range up to 7000 hertz. Very accurate mid-bass.

The Subwoofer is powered slim Cerwin Vega Subwoofer VPAS10 10”

Extremely happy with this setup, Night and day over the stock speakers and adding that subwoofer filled in the sound that was missing. The CDT Speakers are amazing… the mid bass is super. This is with a FACTORY Stereo… I cannot imagine what they would sound like with a 50w RMS amp to them… EPIC I would bet…. But for this and for well under $640.00 I am pretty happy with this. Enough Sub and mid bass and remains clean in the higher volume levels… WINNER WINNER… Chicken Dinner.

IF I was to do more in my YOUNGER days, switch the Subwoofer to a JL Audio Dual 10” setup with a great amplifier… that would be about it. This is a great COMBO as it is.
Can you link the corner speakers and door speakers? I am in the same boat you are, i would do something more elaborate but I'm getting old and i want a simple good sounding system. Thanks in advance.
 

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