5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

[wildh24]

There is no way to tell by looking at the stock speaker. It is one big plug with two pins. You would have to do the battery test to figure which is which.

I have adjusted my metra harnesses to make sure all of my speakers are in correct phase regardless if it matches the factory setup or not. I haven't experienced any adverse effects. That being said, I did this knowing I will be adding a separate subwoofer down the line and will be disabling the ANC when I do.

Interesting... So you haven't heard the done others are referring to and just swapped out the speakers making sure they were are all in phase.

 

[ksn240]

Interesting... So you haven't heard the done others are referring to and just swapped out the speakers making sure they were are all in phase.

Correct. Part of it could be because of my exhaust and the drone is light enough where the exhaust sound overpowers it. I have a Carven catback so it makes plenty of noise itself. Even when playing music at higher volumes I dont hear any droning or any other type of distortion.

 

[wildh24]

Correct. Part of it could be because of my exhaust and the drone is light enough where the exhaust sound overpowers it. I have a Carven catback so it makes plenty of noise itself. Even when playing music at higher volumes I dont hear any droning or any other type of distortion.

Is like to replace the speakers but this whole thing maybe sounds like more headache than it's worth.

 

[rsonedecker]

Is like to replace the speakers but this whole thing maybe sounds like more headache than it's worth.

Makes your head spin, no? I figure the simplest way to attack this is 1) disable ANC, 2) test each speaker with an app to determine which is in phase and which isn't, 3) then test each speaker terminal to note if the wiring needs to be reversed to bring the new speaker into phase when installed, 4) install and verify with ANC still disabled that everything is as it should be, 5) enable ANC and see if there are any issues, and 6) if there are issues, disable ANC.

I feel the combination of 1, 2 and 3 will help me determine which wires in the harness are actually carrying the positive and negative signals. If by wiring the new speakers up in what is traditionally the correct way for correct phase causes issues with ANC, then I'll just disable it. I believe this is essentially what ksn240 has done.

I also plan to check all the wiring out visually, noting specifically the position of the wires at the speaker harness (in relation to each other) - for instance I don't recall if I read anywhere where anyone specifically noted that all four of their door harnesses were wired the same (such as "positive always on the right in relation to the plug/connector" etc.).

It will be interesting regardless.

 

[Rich]

Makes your head spin, no? I figure the simplest way to attack this is 1) disable ANC, 2) test each speaker with an app to determine which is in phase and which isn't, 3) then test each speaker terminal to note if the wiring needs to be reversed to bring the new speaker into phase when installed, 4) install and verify with ANC still disabled that everything is as it should be, 5) enable ANC and see if there are any issues, and 6) if there are issues, disable ANC.

I feel the combination of 1, 2 and 3 will help me determine which wires in the harness are actually carrying the positive and negative signals. If by wiring the new speakers up in what is traditionally the correct way for correct phase causes issues with ANC, then I'll just disable it. I believe this is essentially what ksn240 has done.

I also plan to check all the wiring out visually, noting specifically the position of the wires at the speaker harness (in relation to each other) - for instance I don't recall if I read anywhere where anyone specifically noted that all four of their door harnesses were wired the same (such as "positive always on the right in relation to the plug/connector" etc.).

It will be interesting regardless.

I suggest checking speaker polarity with the 'battery method' vs an app.

Also perhaps trace the wires using a battery connected at the amp end, and then a meter at the speaker end of the wires to see if the wiring is correct all the way out to the speaker, this may not be needed if the wires are color coded (I haven't looked myself, so I'm only going by my past experience with messed up wiring).

 

[ksn240]

I suggest checking speaker polarity with the 'battery method' vs an app.

Also perhaps trace the wires using a battery connected at the amp end, and then a meter at the speaker end of the wires to see if the wiring is correct all the way out to the speaker, this may not be needed if the wires are color coded (I haven't looked myself, so I'm only going by my past experience with messed up wiring).

The app is good for testing speakers once they are installed or for testing the stock speakers. You could wire up the aftermarket speaker the same way as the soick speaker after making sure what is positive and negative, and then test with the app and see it is not in phase. I don't know if it is wiring that is crossed, different harnesses being used, the amp doing something crazy, but many of the stock speakers are out of phase originally.

 

[ksn240]

Makes your head spin, no? I figure the simplest way to attack this is 1) disable ANC, 2) test each speaker with an app to determine which is in phase and which isn't, 3) then test each speaker terminal to note if the wiring needs to be reversed to bring the new speaker into phase when installed, 4) install and verify with ANC still disabled that everything is as it should be, 5) enable ANC and see if there are any issues, and 6) if there are issues, disable ANC.

I feel the combination of 1, 2 and 3 will help me determine which wires in the harness are actually carrying the positive and negative signals. If by wiring the new speakers up in what is traditionally the correct way for correct phase causes issues with ANC, then I'll just disable it. I believe this is essentially what ksn240 has done.

I also plan to check all the wiring out visually, noting specifically the position of the wires at the speaker harness (in relation to each other) - for instance I don't recall if I read anywhere where anyone specifically noted that all four of their door harnesses were wired the same (such as "positive always on the right in relation to the plug/connector" etc.).

It will be interesting regardless.

Correct, I wired them up how they traditionally would be with no regard for the phase they were in from factory. I haven't experienced any issues but if I do I will unplug the ANC. When I add a sub I will have to unplug it anyway so I'm not worried about it.

 

[ksn240]

Is like to replace the speakers but this whole thing maybe sounds like more headache than it's worth.

It hasn't been bad for me, but has been an issue for many. The ANC is the reason for all this trouble. If the ANC is important to you then it could cause a bit of a headache. If you don't care about it you can unplug it if it acts up.

I didn't really notice much of a difference in noise between my 13 Ram without ANC and my 2019.

 

[wildh24]

Makes your head spin, no? I figure the simplest way to attack this is 1) disable ANC, 2) test each speaker with an app to determine which is in phase and which isn't, 3) then test each speaker terminal to note if the wiring needs to be reversed to bring the new speaker into phase when installed, 4) install and verify with ANC still disabled that everything is as it should be, 5) enable ANC and see if there are any issues, and 6) if there are issues, disable ANC.

I feel the combination of 1, 2 and 3 will help me determine which wires in the harness are actually carrying the positive and negative signals. If by wiring the new speakers up in what is traditionally the correct way for correct phase causes issues with ANC, then I'll just disable it. I believe this is essentially what ksn240 has done.

I also plan to check all the wiring out visually, noting specifically the position of the wires at the speaker harness (in relation to each other) - for instance I don't recall if I read anywhere where anyone specifically noted that all four of their door harnesses were wired the same (such as "positive always on the right in relation to the plug/connector" etc.).

It will be interesting regardless.

Yeah that would work. I'll wait for you.

 

[Leadbedr]

I did it old school.
Hook up speaker, play bass. You can tell pretty easily if its out of phase.
Or go for a drive, youll notice real quick.

 

[wildh24]

Yeah that would work. Do one at a time and check.

Still trying to decide if I think swapping all speakers out to infinity reference is going to be worth it in the end coming from the already pretty decent HK set up. Since I installed my sub set up, it's completely changed my opinion on the stock system. That factory sub just doesn't do it for me. Maybe if I was really into bongo solos, it'd be great.

 

[ksn240]

Yeah that would work. Do one at a time and check.

Still trying to decide if I think swapping all speakers out to infinity reference is going to be worth it in the end coming from the already pretty decent HK set up. Since I installed my sub set up, it's completely changed my opinion on the stock system. That factory sub just doesn't do it for me. Maybe if I was really into bongo solos, it'd be great.

What did you swap the sub out for? I'm a little mad that Ram screwed Alpine system trucks out of a direct upgrade. Nobody makes triple voice coil subs, so I would have to lose a channel along with 50 watts of power.

 

[wildh24]

Made a box to fit within the factory under seat storage, PAC Amppro for the signal, JL 10TW-1 Sub, and Alpine MRP-M500 amp. Disconnected the factory sub altogether. End result was a very big difference in the bass response and overall system sound.

If you're thinking of adding a sub, definitely consider the Amppro. It's very easy to implement, has a bass adjustment knob, and provides a nice flat bass signal to the amp. I'm also able to keep ANC through the remaining speakers in tact.

I got a lot of this info from the subwoofer thread on the interior section of this forum and experimented. Great forum of users/owners!

 

[ksn240]

Made a box to fit within the factory under seat storage, PAC Amppro for the signal, JL 10TW-1 Sub, and Alpine MRP-M500 amp. Disconnected the factory sub altogether. End result was a very big difference in the bass response and overall system sound.

If you're thinking of adding a sub, definitely consider the Amppro. It's very easy to implement, has a bass adjustment knob, and provides a nice flat bass signal to the amp. I'm also able to keep ANC through the remaining speakers in tact.

I got a lot of this info from the subwoofer thread on the interior section of this forum and experimented. Great forum of users/owners!

Gotcha. I remember reading that post but didn't remember who it was. Having the HK system I was thinking you just replaced the stock woofer. I would replace just my stock subwoofer for now but don't think the gain would be worth it since I would be losing power at the same time. The difference would probably be pretty minimal. I do plan on adding some dynamat back there though and maybe some polyfill to the factory box.. So it didn't interfere with the ANC at all? I may try that route. It will still be a bit though before I get to it. Have a few other mods I will be doing first. I've never built my own subwoofer box but may give it a go this time around as none of the available options appeal to me. I want a ported enclosure that doesn't cover up the floor mats. I have the all weather slush mats and like being able to easily take them out and clean them. Two small kids will make quiet a mess back there. Also want easy access to the in floor storage. I'm thinking if I used the entire area under the seats, driver and passenger side, that I could make a box with enough volume for a ported enclosure. Pair it with 1 solid 10" sub and I will be in good shape. Would love to have a 12" back there but there just isn't enough room. I guess I could see about raising the seat 2" like I have on past trucks. I haven't got back there to study if a simple wood block would do it for these or not.

 

[wildh24]

What system do you have?

I started with the dynamat and poly in the existing. Very little difference on the sub sound from what I could tell. The dynamat did help tighten up the cab, but I did the doors too. The MLV layer I added to the back wall did help with road and light wind noise.

I have no problems with ANC going the Amppro route. I disconnected the factory sub altogether.

Might be a challenge to get the volume you need for a ported enclosure and staying within those limits. The JL might be the best bet there. Or you could do 2 10s. If the box continued all the way into the drivers side rear underseat it's enough for 2 JL 10TWs. I've been flirting with it all week. But will just enjoy my setup as is for now. That sub hits surprisingly well for a 10" small box.

 

[ksn240]

What system do you have?

I started with the dynamat and poly in the existing. Very little difference on the sub sound from what I could tell. The dynamat did help tighten up the cab, but I did the doors too. The MLV layer I added to the back wall did help with road and light wind noise.

I have no problems with ANC going the Amppro route. I disconnected the factory sub altogether.

Might be a challenge to get the volume you need for a ported enclosure and staying within those limits. The JL might be the best bet there. Or you could do 2 10s. If the box continued all the way into the drivers side rear underseat it's enough for 2 JL 10TWs. I've been flirting with it all week. But will just enjoy my setup as is for now. That sub hits surprisingly well for a 10" small box.

I've got the Alpine. Replacing the factory sub is probably pointless as it is a 2 ohm triple voice coil sub. Would lose one channel of power since the only options are 2 ohm dual voice coils. I know Fox Acoustics sells a box that fits 2 10s without giving up the storage bins, but it is a sealed box and I would much rather have ported. It will be a bit before I do it so I have time to figure things out and explore my options.

 

[Billet1500 4x4]

So reading through this thread, this is what I would assume as well. I think you're spot on. I have not replaced or done anything with the stock speakers but have put in a different sub and box. I feel the stock speakers in HK 12 are ok. Just ok. I've flirted with replacing them, but would definitely want to keep the ANC working and I'd have to think that the engineers have it wired such that it works to accomplish what they intended. I can't imagine assembly being that bad that the workers and robotics are just randomly slapping speaker inputs on factory speakers. If I were to replace them, I'd just make sure that however it's wired to the existing factory set up, it's matched up with the aftermarket. So if a green color lead goes to + terminal on a factory speaker, I'd make the corresponding Metra adaptor lead terminates on the after market +.

This assumes NO after market amplifier powering things.

Am I the same page as you?

I'm not doing this personally, but has anyone used the PAC Amppro to bypass the factory ANC and DSP altogether? This obviously does not take into account many factory system features and imaging, but if someone wanted to just send a simple signal to aftermarket amps, I would think it's an option and may be a much cleaner way of doing things for a newbie and novice.

We are on the same page. The speakers are wired for reverse phase for a reason only known to the engineers who designed it. I think what throws confusion into the mix is that it doesn't match the wiring schematic in the factory repair manual, and a couple people had reported some weird wiring but they also had ANC issues straight from the factory.

 

[wildh24]

Has anyone swapped out the stock speakers on the factory HK setup and retained the factory amp as the power source? If so, your thoughts?

Also, what are you using in the 6x9 locations? 1,2, or 3 way? Are they even full range signals at that location?

The attached picture would lead me to believe they are using the 6x9 in a 1 way driver configuration with the 3.5" covering mids and highs.

 

[wildh24]

Stumbled on this thread while looking for Metra harnesses.

https://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/1...0-vs-72-6514-speaker-wiring-adapter-info.html

Could be adding to all of the further confusion. Polarities are flipped with the 6514 vs 050 which are used on the front 6x9s. Crutchfield still has the Metra 050 harnesses, Metra has discontinued them and looks like the 6514 is the replacement.


Also, I went to the Mopar site to check the stock speakers and the HK system does have different 6x9s and 3.5s vs the stock and Alpine. (See picture of 3.5) I am very interested in hearing anyone who has experience in swapping out the HK Speakers for aftermarket and whether you feel there was noticable improvement.

 

[rsonedecker]

I'll have to check my adapters when I get home. Still have a set I haven't installed. I do think it was different to the ones you referenced and I had no problems with them. Positive/negative wires reversed on them maybe? Only thing I can think of if they both fit.

I can confirm this is the case. The 71-050 and 72-6514 appear to have the same connector, but the wires are reversed.