2025 Ram 1500 Current Owners - Discussion, Feedback, and Problems

[Bluejack80]

The truck’s ambient temperature was reading about 10 degrees high. Ordered a new sensor ($15) and threw it on tonight. Back to normal temp. Does that reading affect any other things? Climate control, engine mix, etc.? Less than 1k miles on truck. Old sensor had some rust building.

 

[firecadet613]

The truck’s ambient temperature was reading about 10 degrees high. Ordered a new sensor ($15) and threw it on tonight. Back to normal temp. Does that reading affect any other things? Climate control, engine mix, etc.? Less than 1k miles on truck. Old sensor had some rust building. View attachment 188477

On a 2025? Should be a warranty fix.

 

[Bluejack80]

On a 2025? Should be a warranty fix.

Lol my wife said the same thing. Service is booked out a week+ and it was a 20 second fix.

 

[firecadet613]

Lol my wife said the same thing. Service is booked out a week+ and it was a 20 second fix.

I've done it before. If it rusts up again, I'd hit it with fluid film or something to prevent the rust.

 

[Bluejack80]

I've done it before. If it rusts up again, I'd hit it with fluid film or something to prevent the rust.

That’s a good idea. I probably could have sanded and fluid film’d the old one vs. going new. Side note - surprised Ram is still putting the sensor in the side mirror.

 

[Xanathar]

2025 Limited here, ~6 weeks and almost 2k miles on it so far. This is my first Ram and first full size after many years with other Mid-Sized trucks.
Came from a 2022 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X with Tech+Safety packages in it. Needed something bigger and wanted more comfort at the same time.

Positives:
Truck is quiet and super comfortable to drive in.
About the same gas milage as my Frontier, but needs premium instead.
Heated/Ventilated/Massaging seats are great.
UConnect 5 is a definite upgrade over the Nissan.
Stop+Start ACC working great, and functions in stop+go traffic if its a super short stop. Longer stop and you need to press resume or gas.
Enjoying the HO Engine, no CEL issues.
I live in a hilly area, and the Frontier would always have some tire spin when turning and also going up/down a hill. Not an issue with the Ram w/LSD.

Negatives:
The 2x Wireless chargers are 100% non functional for me. Ill have the dealer check when I get my first service since I dont care about it that much.
I really wish I had the 360 camera package in these without the $$ package adding everything else.
Lane Keeping even at max setting is only useful on straight roads, and even then, will still gladly take me over the center line when experimenting with it.
I have the side mirrors set to auto point down when reversing which works. However when they return it maybe adds 1-2 degrees more height. After 2-3 Reverse-Drive changes the mirrors are completely out of alignment and I need to readjust or wait till I stop and go back to memory setting.
The additional passenger screen is a net-negative. The passenger never uses it since they have their phone and I would prefer it was just storage. Or even just something that is not a giant high-gloss area that directs sunlight at my face at the wrong angle.
Edit: Added I dislike the "Limited" brand on the arm rest. It gets HOT in the sun and hurts if you touch it when getting in and starting the truck.

Added a Revolver X4s so far, and if I can find an easy way to wire up a dash camera that is my next plan. Will be adding a Front and/or 360 camera setup if that is ever figured out.

 

[Bringback5.7]

Let's keep this thread to current 2025 Owners so we have a place to see their thoughts and problems.

Well I have issues with unimpressed fuel economy like they advertised I do alot of combined and highway driving don't drive over 75-77mph on the highway either. I'm averaging 19mpgwith the 2025. I averaged 19mpg with my 2017 that I still have didnt trade in refused actually. 3.92 gears on both I bought a 2025 Bighorn for it to break the thermostat 3 weeks after buying it. The engine seized. Paid to tow it back to Wisconsin from Iowa. I go to dog shows I got 3 field labs I enter in sporting competitions and field trials. I told the dealer 30 day lemon law isn't up I don't want it back I did fight with them for the better of a week until I got the GM on the phone. They wouldn't put a new engine in they wanted to rebuild it I told them no. Called stellantis they nope the dealer will take care of it and they did not. Do not buy the 2025. I'm sure there will be other ones that are better but 60k for a new truck I'm back to driving my 17 bighorn with 107k miles on it and it did better towing my trailers than the 2025 did for the short time I had it I reset the milage and got 13mpg towing 3500 lbs I would get 16mpg with the 5.7 with 3.92 gears. As far as I'm concerned they can take the 2025 and shove it. That BMW knockoff motor is no good truck engine. I looked online and found people who had this issue with 2023 and 2024 grand wagoneers. They really dropped the ball switching engines I'll take my 2017 back gladly I don't even have the leaking exhaust manifolds after 107k miles. Plus I'd like to point out back in 2017 I paid 40k for that bighorn and the new truck has gotten 20k more expensive and is only gotten a little nicer interior wise just remember you still have cloth seats. So 60k for a lower trim vehicle that had issues as you can imagine I wasn't having a good day and I won't be buying another one. I'll probably end up buying a diesel or a 2023 lease turn in or a 2500 power wagon. Long live the hemi, I should've known this 3.0L wouldn't live up when they axed the plans to drop it in the 2025 ram 2500 power wagon and keep the 6.4 Hemi in production through 2025 for a handful of vehicles. They better wake up a lot of people I've been talking to are not impressed with stellantis.

 

[ram813ltd]

looks like i'll keep my 21 limited. best vehicle i ever had. '25 is $20k more for less. no wonder stellantis is in trouble

 

[KevInSD]

I took my truck in this morning to have it checked after having the CEL come on last week (which then turned off a couple days later). They ended up reprogramming the PCM software. Hopefully no other issues pop up.

 

[Danatanchor]

First sign of trouble. I had to have the truck towed to the dealer last week. The battery was dead and the wipers and lights kept flashing slowly when I tried to charge it. It would not take a charge. The dealership tested the battery and said it was bad and replaced it. Seemed like a lame fix to me, with little diagnostic effort. Drove fine for 5 days and sat for two days. Went to start it and it was dead again. This time nothing. Another $300 tow back to the dealer. I will update as hey figure it out.

Here is an update on my ongoing saga with my 2025 Laramie. I posted about the first tow in June. I have now had the truck towed in once more and jump started twice to return for the same issue. The problem is that something is creating a current draw and draining the battery. They can not determine the cause. After elevating the problem to a "Star" group at Stellantis, they have replaced the radio and the TMB on the last visit. Took 4 days and the battery was dead again. It is now at the dealership for the fourth time, and the last word I got was "we can not figure it out". I contacted customer care and requested a buy back. Been a week and I still have no answer.
Am I the only one having this major electrical issue?

 

[F87]

Here is an update on my ongoing saga with my 2025 Laramie. I posted about the first tow in June. I have now had the truck towed in once more and jump started twice to return for the same issue. The problem is that something is creating a current draw and draining the battery. They can not determine the cause. After elevating the problem to a "Star" group at Stellantis, they have replaced the radio and the TMB on the last visit. Took 4 days and the battery was dead again. It is now at the dealership for the fourth time, and the last word I got was "we can not figure it out". I contacted customer care and requested a buy back. Been a week and I still have no answer.
Am I the only one having this major electrical issue?

I would have a lemon lawyer involved

 

[a3vr]

Here is an update on my ongoing saga with my 2025 Laramie. I posted about the first tow in June. I have now had the truck towed in once more and jump started twice to return for the same issue. The problem is that something is creating a current draw and draining the battery. They can not determine the cause. After elevating the problem to a "Star" group at Stellantis, they have replaced the radio and the TMB on the last visit. Took 4 days and the battery was dead again. It is now at the dealership for the fourth time, and the last word I got was "we can not figure it out". I contacted customer care and requested a buy back. Been a week and I still have no answer.
Am I the only one having this major electrical issue?

How long does it take to drain the battery? When we picked up ours back in June the battery was near dead. Barely started in the morning and it seemed like electronics were cycling on and off all the time. Haven't noticed as much electronic noise coming from the truck lately and the battery seems to keep a charge but its also driven every day.

Edit: Back when we got the truck I had read that the phone app was causing a drain. I cancelled the ram subscriptions where you can remote start and track the truck since I wasn't going to pay for them anyways. Do you have that still active?

 

[Danatanchor]

I would have a lemon lawyer involved

At this point they seem open to the buy back if a resolution can not be found. Also Minnesota's lemon law is petty tight.

 

[Danatanchor]

How long does it take to drain the battery? When we picked up ours back in June the battery was near dead. Barely started in the morning and it seemed like electronics were cycling on and off all the time. Haven't noticed as much electronic noise coming from the truck lately and the battery seems to keep a charge but its also driven every day.

Edit: Back when we got the truck I had read that the phone app was causing a drain. I cancelled the ram subscriptions where you can remote start and track the truck since I wasn't going to pay for them anyways. Do you have that still active?

I too noticed that the cycling of the engine, even when it had been turned off for some time. The phone app is a good catch. The dealer can not seem to get it to drain when they have it, but they are not connecting a phone. I even asked if they had tried that and they seemed dismissive. I wall ask them to pursue that fix. Thanks for the great response!!

 

[KevInSD]

How long does it take to drain the battery? When we picked up ours back in June the battery was near dead. Barely started in the morning and it seemed like electronics were cycling on and off all the time. Haven't noticed as much electronic noise coming from the truck lately and the battery seems to keep a charge but its also driven every day.

Edit: Back when we got the truck I had read that the phone app was causing a drain. I cancelled the ram subscriptions where you can remote start and track the truck since I wasn't going to pay for them anyways. Do you have that still active?

That's funny you mention the electronic noises because I've noticed that with mine a few times this weekend. I was working in the garage on Saturday and heard a noise like something was cycling from the front of the truck. Sitting around that night I heard it again and my daughter mentioned a noise when she took the dog out one night. I had really thought much of it but now I'm a concerned about that creating an issue at some point.

 

[Biga]

That's funny you mention the electronic noises because I've noticed that with mine a few times this weekend. I was working in the garage on Saturday and heard a noise like something was cycling from the front of the truck. Sitting around that night I heard it again and my daughter mentioned a noise when she took the dog out one night. I had really thought much of it but now I'm a concerned about that creating an issue at some point.

You will get the Oil Cooler for the turbo's running for about 15 minutes or so after you turn off the truck. Not sure about any other noises.

 

[a3vr]

You will get the Oil Cooler for the turbo's running for about 15 minutes or so after you turn off the truck. Not sure about any other noises.

Agree. However the noises we are talking about also happen when the truck is completely cooled down, even the next day, and they are more like actuator noises rather than the continuous noise of a pump. Sometimes the dash even lights up. I haven't been able to come up with a reason but we've had the truck for 2.5 months and the battery hasn't died so I've just come to ignore it. Ours is a Big Horn so no passive entry.

 

[KevInSD]

Agree. However the noises we are talking about also happen when the truck is completely cooled down, even the next day, and they are more like actuator noises rather than the continuous noise of a pump. Sometimes the dash even lights up. I haven't been able to come up with a reason but we've had the truck for 2.5 months and the battery hasn't died so I've just come to ignore it. Ours is a Big Horn so no passive entry.

Exactly the same in my case. I keep waiting to come out to a dead battery but so far it's fine.

 

[Laramieblue]

My Tacoma's battery would die after sitting for a couple of weeks so being an Electronics Engineer I did some research and discovered the newer vehicles have many computers constantly drawing power from the battery. This continual draw is called Parasitic current, and this is what I found for the amount of current draw. “Typically, the normal amount of parasitic draw is between 50 and 85 milliamps in newer cars and less than 50 milliamps for older cars.”
What I did to determine what my truck was drawing is to remove one of the leads off of the battery and hook up a Volt/ohm/current meter at the 10 amp setting. Then I closed all the doors, shut down the engine, removed the key and I was able to watch the current draw go down and finally stabilize at 62 milliamps. Car batteries are designed to have lots of starting or cranking current but very little current for being continuously drawn upon to keep electronics powered up. I looked at my batteries' Amp hour rating and divided it by the 62 milliamps and the result was about 325 hours or around 2 weeks.
What you could do is measure the current like I did but I would suggest you have a battery charger or jump start battery connected to both cables or battery clamps when you disconnect one of them so your truck will always have power to keep all the computer memory intact. Once you have your meter connected between one of the battery terminals and the cable which will power up all the computers you can disconnect the charger so all the power is coming from the battery and not the charger. You will need to reconnect the charger before removing the meter to keep power to the electronics while you reconnect the terminal. The goal is to ensure you have power to the truck's electronics at all time to avoid memory loss to the computers.

If you like to troubleshoot your issue yourself you could connect up the meter then pull out one fuse at a time from each fuse box and see which fuse is drawing all the power. You might just find one circuit or fuse doing all the power drain or several fuses draining the power. At least you can now go to the dealer and tell them which fuses are doing all the power draw. Just make you don't have any electronics powered up or truck doors open which will activate some computers or lights.

You would think the dealer's service department could do this but sometimes the Manufacturer tells the dealers what they can do to troubleshoot trucks and what they are not allowed to do. Perhaps this type of troubleshooting which is very detailed and will take several hours to complete is not allowed. This may be why they tell you they can't find the problem, perhaps the service department doesn't have techs that are trained to troubleshoot or repair the complex electronics.

I have had this experience with my Tacoma, dealer's service department and Toyota's manufacture's imposed limitation to what service techs can do. It is limited to plug and play type of service, diagnosis issue to a system then replace the whole system or major components within that system.

Next time you go in for service for a dead battery ask them if they have done a parasitic draw test and what are the results that were noted in the service log. Make sure you get the results, that will show they did the test. If it is above the limits ask them what troubleshooting they did to find the source of the draw. The steps above are the easiest way to single out the cause, if they didn't do it then ask what steps they did do to find the source of the current draw.

Good luck and hope novel this didn't put you to sleep.....

 

[trmc47]

I ordered the TuxMats and even though they say they are for the 2025, they do not conform to the dead pedal. They fit OK, but there is a void in the transition next to the dead pedal which may wear after a bit. l reached out to them and waiting to hear back. See my earlier post for pics.

If you go to the tuxmats website the sku for the 2025 is the same as the sku for the 2024. You are correct they haven't changed anything for the 2025 model year