2019 ram HK system complete system upgrade

[wildh24]

I actually did verify every speaker with a battery during installation. I pulled the speaker, noted the orientation of the stock harness, tested the speaker with a battery, marked the positive, and then adjusted the Metra harnesses to match. Then double checked. . I'm fairly certain all 6x9s are working in + polarity. (Unless the factory did not actually send a + signal on that specific wire... In which case I would need to verify with a speaker pop app or osscilscope). I found the app to be highly inconsistent in my use.

I would consider an active crossover but there again it's a lot of wire slicing since it'd have to be done after the factory amp.

I'm probably overthinking everything. It's great on 99.8% of music and that one note was the only thing that was wonky. It was on Lorde's 'Green Light' and her stuff is very bass heavy.

 

[Patsy1099]

I actually did verify every speaker with a battery during installation. I pulled the speaker, noted the orientation of the stock harness, tested the speaker with a battery, marked the positive, and then adjusted the Metra harnesses to match. Then double checked. . I'm fairly certain all 6x9s are working in + polarity. (Unless the factory did not actually send a + signal on that specific wire... In which case I would need to verify with a speaker pop app or osscilscope). I found the app to be highly inconsistent in my use.

I would consider an active crossover but there again it's a lot of wire slicing since it'd have to be done after the factory amp.

I'm probably overthinking everything. It's great on 99.8% of music and that one note was the only thing that was wonky. It was on Lorde's 'Green Light' and her stuff is very bass heavy.

Yeah, I would just skip her stuff then j/k

 

[wildh24]

Yeah, I would just skip her stuff then j/k

Problem solved! I knew you guys on here are brilliant!

 

[Hackmunch]

here is what i did. you are correct the doors and sub are wired out of phase from the factory. so if your adding an amp and you dont have a phase adjustment on the amplifier you will have to wire the sub backwards. i had the same issues at first that the doors were just getting way to much bass. what i did was just turn down the bass on the radio to like minus 4 or 5 (cant remember) and upped the gain on my sub amp and crossed over the sub a tad lower than i normally would to make up for the signal loss. it made a world of difference and sounds awesome. the alpine factory doors actually sound very good once you kill some of the bass to them. they should have been crossed over from the factory imo.

 

[Polak LA]

here is what i did. you are correct the doors and sub are wired out of phase from the factory. so if your adding an amp and you dont have a phase adjustment on the amplifier you will have to wire the sub backwards. i had the same issues at first that the doors were just getting way to much bass. what i did was just turn down the bass on the radio to like minus 4 or 5 (cant remember) and upped the gain on my sub amp and crossed over the sub a tad lower than i normally would to make up for the signal loss. it made a world of difference and sounds awesome. the alpine factory doors actually sound very good once you kill some of the bass to them. they should have been crossed over from the factory imo.

Finally I found what I’m looking for....
All I want to do is upgrade my subwoofer, for 3 reasons. 1 factory subwoofer makes my back window shake and it drives me nuts!
2. Factory bass is set for LPF while I prefer HPF or FULL
3. stock door speakers are not performing too good with higher bass. Everything sounds good on low/mid volume but it’s not so good when I turn the volume up!
I want to keep everything stock except subwoofer and aftermarket sub for it.
Basically I want to turn down the bass on my equalizer and turn it up on sub (makes sense?)
Nothing crazy, just 10” box with the amp capable of delivering enough power.
Now the questions...
1. Do I need Maestro?
2. Do I need PAC Amppro?
3. Where do I take signal from?
4. Any other concerns I didn’t think off?

Thank You.

 

[wildh24]

Makes sense. A different sub made a world of difference. What amp and sub you thinking of running?

You don't need an Amppro or DSR1, but they make it easier. I used an Amppro and really like it. Quick install and the sub level remote is very very handy.

 

[Polak LA]

Makes sense. A different sub made a world of difference. What amp and sub you thinking of running?

You don't need an Amppro or DSR1, but they make it easier. I used an Amppro and really like it. Quick install and the sub level remote is very very handy.

Thank You for responding
I didn’t shop around yet, any suggestions? Money is not a big issue but I didn’t want to pay for high end stuff
I need the space under the back seat so only option for sub is behind the back seat, since back row reclines it should give me enough space
After reading this thread I think I’ll go with amppro
Where did you get the signal from? Is sub output ok or I need to run it from one of the speakers?

(Sorry for my English, it’s my second language)

Thank You

 

[wildh24]

The amppro will get to the audio signal and also has a subwoofer volume knob for fine tuning. I use mine all the time. Something like a DSR1 may allow for a lot more signal processing than the Amppro if that's your thing. You could also tap into the rear speaker levels and use a line out converter but the Amppro is super simple.

As far as subs, I think you're going to need a slim design if you plan to put it behind the rear seats. I can't comment on that since I've not done it. JL power wedge might fit.... And I think that has an amp built in.

 

[Polak LA]

The amppro will get to the audio signal and also has a subwoofer volume knob for fine tuning. I use mine all the time. Something like a DSR1 may allow for a lot more signal processing than the Amppro if that's your thing. You could also tap into the rear speaker levels and use a line out converter but the Amppro is super simple.

As far as subs, I think you're going to need a slim design if you plan to put it behind the rear seats. I can't comment on that since I've not done it. JL power wedge might fit.... And I think that has an amp built in.

Thank You again for your advice! Helps a lot. Now I can shop for compartments

 

[wildh24]

Thank You again for your advice! Helps a lot. Now I can shop for compartments

No problem. Glad to help. Have fun shopping! Feel free to ask if you have more questions.

P.s. the sub will make a world of difference for you.... Really adds a lot to the system.

 

[GOATinstructor]

Thank You for responding
I didn’t shop around yet, any suggestions? Money is not a big issue but I didn’t want to pay for high end stuff
I need the space under the back seat so only option for sub is behind the back seat, since back row reclines it should give me enough space
After reading this thread I think I’ll go with amppro
Where did you get the signal from? Is sub output ok or I need to run it from one of the speakers?

(Sorry for my English, it’s my second language)

Thank You

I was able to fit a pair of these boxes with the stock sub removed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shallow-Mo...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

• Width: 18"
• Height: 15"
• Depth back to front on bottom: 7.25"
• Depth back to front on top: 5.50"

I had to un-pin the ANC because of the drone it was generating. I used the stock sub output to feed my amps high level input. When starting the truck, the sound of the engine would come through the new sub setup in an attempt to cancel the engine startup noise. But with a bit of gain on the amp, I was not cancelling the noise, but instead creating it. It sounded like the motor was behind my back seats.

Once engine reached idle and not traveling, the sound went away, but would return at RPM's between 1200-2100 or so.

When traveling at speed, it would drone to the tune of the motor.

After un-pinning the ANC, the ONLY difference in sound I hear is a very minor - almost insignificant - engine drone at highway speeds. This is the sound of the motor itself coming through the cab. No other wind noise/road noise/etc changed what-so-ever.

I believe the ANC is only to offset motor noise.

 

[wildh24]

^^^i agree. Actually I unpinned just the #3 mic and have no more drone. Odd... But true.

 

[Hackmunch]

remember the factory sub is wired out of phase. all the sub noises should go away once anc is removed.

 

[Rob3989]

JL tw5 sub is amazing for what it is. I’m running 2 of them.

 

[GOATinstructor]

^^^i agree. Actually I unpinned just the #3 mic and have no more drone. Odd... But true.

I think I read somewhere that you used the PAC module. I understand that this will give me a clean signal, but not sure if it's worth the $275 price tag.

Currently, I'm running two Rockford fosgate r2d2 12" subs on a Rockford fosgate 500xd1 amp being fed from stock amp out.

I have gain barely turned up and running the remote punch up to just under the gear selector. It's a clean and fully hidden setup, but I can get sub distortion pretty easily when turning the remote punch up.

I wonder if it's because my sub boxes are too small or if it's because the stock sub output is a terrible source to feed the amp.

Some songs sound fantastic and others just dont sound right and I feel like I should be getting more output before distortion. I feel like even though I'm running entry level subs, 2 - 12" subs should be seriously kicking hard.

 

[wildh24]

I think I read somewhere that you used the PAC module. I understand that this will give me a clean signal, but not sure if it's worth the $275 price tag.

Currently, I'm running two Rockford fosgate r2d2 12" subs on a Rockford fosgate 500xd1 amp being fed from stock amp out.

I have gain barely turned up and running the remote punch up to just under the gear selector. It's a clean and fully hidden setup, but I can get sub distortion pretty easily when turning the remote punch up.

I wonder if it's because my sub boxes are too small or if it's because the stock sub output is a terrible source to feed the amp.

Some songs sound fantastic and others just dont sound right and I feel like I should be getting more output before distortion. I feel like even though I'm running entry level subs, 2 - 12" subs should be seriously kicking hard.

Are you quite a ways off on your box volume? That could account for the lack of output. I was a shade short on my box as well and just didn't quite have the punch I was looking for. I read a lot about poly fill and came across very interesting studies in materials. Long story short, I picked up $5 worth of pink insulation at home Depot and replaced the polyfill with that. Very noticable improvement in output and frequency response. I was quite surprised. Worth a shot and cheap.

In regards to the PAC, yes my understanding is that it sends a flat signal. You can also defeat the factory EQ (via a computer connection) so that it doesn't mess with the sub channel. The volume knob on the PAC I have mounted just under the dash (below shift knob) and it's also very convenient and stealth. I use it A LOT and feel that is a true volume control across the bass output band vs a 'boost' @ xx hz. The thing I don't like about using a LOC it tapping off the sub or rear speakers is that it's going to be affected by the factory EQ, factory processing, and not easily adjustable. I found it's very nice to be able to have a controllable flat signal to the subs and have independent of the factory EQ (which I use to better control the midbass).

You're right in that it's a tad expensive for what it is... But it does work. DSR 1 would be another option but I don't know much about it.

I've thought about buying an Alpine pxe 850 amp /DSP and running the PAC signals to that and powering all of the 3.5s at 25w. Then getting a 4 channel 50w amp for the 6x9s. That would give me a ton of flexibility with xovers, EQ, etc. But I got to stop somewhere. It's really good the way it is....

 

[GOATinstructor]

Are you quite a ways off on your box volume? That could account for the lack of output. I was a shade short on my box as well and just didn't quite have the punch I was looking for. I read a lot about poly fill and came across very interesting studies in materials. Long story short, I picked up $5 worth of pink insulation at home Depot and replaced the polyfill with that. Very noticable improvement in output and frequency response. I was quite surprised. Worth a shot and cheap.

In regards to the PAC, yes my understanding is that it sends a flat signal. You can also defeat the factory EQ (via a computer connection) so that it doesn't mess with the sub channel. The volume knob on the PAC I have mounted just under the dash (below shift knob) and it's also very convenient and stealth. I use it A LOT and feel that is a true volume control across the bass output band vs a 'boost' @ xx hz. The thing I don't like about using a LOC it tapping off the sub or rear speakers is that it's going to be affected by the factory EQ, factory processing, and not easily adjustable. I found it's very nice to be able to have a controllable flat signal to the subs and have independent of the factory EQ (which I use to better control the midbass).

You're right in that it's a tad expensive for what it is... But it does work. DSR 1 would be another option but I don't know much about it.

I've thought about buying an Alpine pxe 850 amp /DSP and running the PAC signals to that and powering all of the 3.5s at 25w. Then getting a 4 channel 50w amp for the 6x9s. That would give me a ton of flexibility with xovers, EQ, etc. But I got to stop somewhere. It's really good the way it is....

Rockford Fosgate Box Wizard says my box is 0.68 cubic feet. The seller of the box claimed 0.88. Rockford recommends a box range of 0.75 - 1.25 with an optimum at 1.02 for a sealed setup, which I am running.

Am I close enough?

I am running the 2 DVC subs at a total of 2 ohms.

 

[Hackmunch]

no lol

 

[Thatsme06]

I was able to fit a pair of these boxes with the stock sub removed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shallow-Mount-Sub-Woofer-Speaker-Enclosure-12-Sealed-Truck-Box/231173491791?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

• Width: 18"
• Height: 15"
• Depth back to front on bottom: 7.25"
• Depth back to front on top: 5.50"

I had to un-pin the ANC because of the drone it was generating. I used the stock sub output to feed my amps high level input. When starting the truck, the sound of the engine would come through the new sub setup in an attempt to cancel the engine startup noise. But with a bit of gain on the amp, I was not cancelling the noise, but instead creating it. It sounded like the motor was behind my back seats.

Once engine reached idle and not traveling, the sound went away, but would return at RPM's between 1200-2100 or so.

When traveling at speed, it would drone to the tune of the motor.

After un-pinning the ANC, the ONLY difference in sound I hear is a very minor - almost insignificant - engine drone at highway speeds. This is the sound of the motor itself coming through the cab. No other wind noise/road noise/etc changed what-so-ever.

I believe the ANC is only to offset motor noise.

So you were able to install 2 of these boxes behind the rear seat with no issues? Do the seats have to be reclined or it doesn't matter?

 

[GOATinstructor]

no lol

This is a difference of .07CuFt.

Is that a major difference? Would polyfil help bridge the gap?