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2019 ram HK system complete system upgrade

Thatsme06 said:
So you were able to install 2 of these boxes behind the rear seat with no issues? Do the seats have to be reclined or it doesn't matter?
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2 boxes, yes. The seats have to be fully reclined in my situation. I did add a layer of noico 80mil, noico 170mil and a sheet of MLV, but even still, I don't think that even without the added material that you would be able to keep the seats fully upright.
 
GOATinstructor said:
2 boxes, yes. The seats have to be fully reclined in my situation. I did add a layer of noico 80mil, noico 170mil and a sheet of MLV, but even still, I don't think that even without the added material that you would be able to keep the seats fully upright.
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Okay that's what I wanted to know. I have the "solid mount" non reclining seats so will more than likely not work. Have to go under the seat!
 
GOATinstructor said:
This is a difference of .07CuFt.

Is that a major difference? Would polyfil help bridge the gap?
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I calculate or about .80 cf given its 5/8 mdf. So you're about 20% off the 'optimal' amount. Pink fiberglass insulation is worth a shot imho. Also, in box that is undersized, you'll typically have to over power to allow the sub to do what it is intending.

What is the power output on that amp?

What are you running your factory EQ at?
Try a flat bass EQ and playing with the gain.

The problem I see with running off there factory sub level is that the factory processing/EQ over emphasizes 55-90hz. Like way too much! That's exactly what your amp and subs are getting too and it may just be distorting the crap out of the signal.
 
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wildh24 said:
I calculate or about .80 cf given its 5/8 mdf. So you're about 20% off the 'optimal' amount. Pink fiberglass insulation is worth a shot imho. Also, in box that is undersized, you'll typically have to over power to allow the sub to do what it is intending.

What is the power output on that amp?

What are you running your factory EQ at?
Try a flat bass EQ and playing with the gain.

The problem I see with running off there factory sub level is that the factory processing/EQ over emphasizes 55-90hz. Like way too much! That's exactly what your amp and subs are getting too and it may just be distorting the crap out of the signal.
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The amp is a a 500W RMS at 2ohms. The subs are 250RMS max.

I did base the gain with the stock head unit bass at +2 or 3 because I wanted some of the mid bass from the doors. I am very new to this as I had a kicker hideaway in my previous truck and had pre-amp outputs on the old deck to simplify.

What do you recommend? Maybe run the stock equalizer bass low, like minus 1-3, set the gain for good volume and then adjust the remote "punch" equalizer to taste?
 
I think you should start with setting the amp gain.


I'd set the crossover on your amp to around 70-90 hz. Drop the bass on the head unit EQ to flat. If the amp remote is a bass Boost vs a volume knob, I'd set it 0. If it's a volume knob turn it full. Turn the head unit volume to about 75%. Download frequency generator app and set it to about 50hz. Then slowly adjust your amp gain until it starts to distort or clip. That is kind of the way I've been taught to set the gain.

Then listen to some music you know well adjust as necessary to meet your liking.

If it's just not getting what you want, getting a flat signal to sub is maybe your next step and for that, you'd need a Amppro or DSR1.

I'd also definitely try the fiberglass. It's very inexpensive ($5 unbacked roll at home Depot).
 
No mine are under my seat but you could prob fit 1 behind the seat after removing then stock sub. Tw5s are the way to go for flat subs . Others also like the tw3 as well. I’m not a jl fan by any means but the tw5 is one of my favorite subs
 
the smaller the box the higher the resonate frequency. poly fill might add up to 10% "box" volume. i would never ever use manufactures min unless you want to peak at higher than "normal" frequencies.
 
So I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on my system to replace the speakers in my HK system, and I need some help finalizing. I have read and read this and several other Threads at least twice and still don't think I have it all figured out, but can't wait for the perfect solution, need to start somewhere, but I do need some vital questions answered first.

So a ton of you have done speaker change outs of the HK system of the dash , door, and headliner, with the same and mix match Ohm values, however has anyone with the HK system changed out all there speakers, all the 3.5"s and 6x9's to all 2 ohm speakers? If so would there be any issues with me doing so? and would there also be any issues with me changing out the 3.5's to 4 ohms and the 6x9's to the 2 ohms? Right now this is what's in the Cart and ready to be purchased, 2 sets of CDT 6x9 HD-690CFS for all four doors lowers, and 4 sets (cause I can't buy them individually to make 7) of CDT HD-2 Hybrid 2"Mid/Tweeter combo's with appropriate brackets to replace the 3-Dash, 2 Headliner, and 2 Front upper door, 3.5" speakers. I will see what all that does and then see what I need to do about the SUB situation, but for now that is phase 1.

Second question is I have read and read about the polarity situation which I plan to check each individual speaker, but which Metra Harness am I supposed to use, which has the least amount of issues and seems to be easiest to work with or is the right one, the 72-6514 or the 71-050?

any and all help is eagerly accepted.
Thanks V
 
Are the HK speakers 2 ohm or 4 ohm this is a very important question that I feel most of us need answered, for the system to run right for the specific ohm speakers we choose, please advice, I have a order on hold and am going with either 4 ohm or 2 ohm with the info provided.
 
just wondering, for all those with the Alpine and HK systems, how many of you before deciding to replace speakers or do whatever upgrade you all decided to do, made sure you switched you systems from surround system to a front speakers system by going in the menu and turning off the surround sound option?

For those of you who did not you might want to do that first and see what a difference it makes first then make your decision.
 
GOATinstructor said:
I was able to fit a pair of these boxes with the stock sub removed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shallow-Mount-Sub-Woofer-Speaker-Enclosure-12-Sealed-Truck-Box/231173491791?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

  • Width: 18"
  • Height: 15"
  • Depth back to front on bottom: 7.25"
  • Depth back to front on top: 5.50"
I had to un-pin the ANC because of the drone it was generating. I used the stock sub output to feed my amps high level input. When starting the truck, the sound of the engine would come through the new sub setup in an attempt to cancel the engine startup noise. But with a bit of gain on the amp, I was not cancelling the noise, but instead creating it. It sounded like the motor was behind my back seats.

Once engine reached idle and not traveling, the sound went away, but would return at RPM's between 1200-2100 or so.

When traveling at speed, it would drone to the tune of the motor.

After un-pinning the ANC, the ONLY difference in sound I hear is a very minor - almost insignificant - engine drone at highway speeds. This is the sound of the motor itself coming through the cab. No other wind noise/road noise/etc changed what-so-ever.

I believe the ANC is only to offset motor noise.
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Hi,

Would you be willing to sell my your stock HK sub!
 
So I have a couple questions if you will. 1. Did you change the rear overhead speakers? 2. How were the door speakers wired from 6x9 to tweeter? 3. The factory amp wiring inputs to the amp were what type. i.e. 4 inputs? 5 inputs? 4. How many outputs came out of the amp? 5. Why did you use the dsr1 over the jl version? 6. Does all over the navigation controls for volumes still work as original?
 
Bacoviah said:
So over the past weekend we did a total system upgrade and swap. The new system consists of:

Maestro dsr1
Focal Flax 3way
Us Acoustics “Mike” sub amp
JL Audio vxi 800/8 for the 3way
2-jl audio 13tw5(box will be ready tomorrow)
JL Audio 12tw3 in prefab(loaner until box is ready)

Background:
After many years of being a novice and competing is IASCA and modifying many vehicles I decided to keep this vehicle stealth or a stock look. No visible fabrication. Well except for the sub box.

Details:
We put the focal tweeters in the upper door stock speaker location.
Midrange in the stock dash corner locations.
Midbass in the lower door location.

This isn’t ideal for proper imaging but again I did not want to cut into the inner door panel to make the midrange fit in the door upper stock location. More on this later.

I’m having a box made for 2-13tw5 subs but the shop had a bit failure at the last second. They did give me a loaner sub in a prefab box from JL. This was a priceless gesture on their part. Kudos.

The maestro dsr1 we installed where the factory amp was since this equipment allows me to delete the factory amp/anc.
Side note on this. The resistors that come with the maestro make sure you solder instead of using the clips. This will help prevemt introducing noise in to the system. Thank you Michael Cook!!! For this tip.
We are using the dsr1 with all channels full range to flatten the factory signal and using the on board dsp with the JL vxi 800/8 for processing and crossovers.
I am able to eq individual channels on the vxi and then able to use the dsr1 as a master eq with the channels linked to help prevent phase issues. Using both also provides a powerful processing tool.
Forgot to add there is zero noise in the system. A complete black hole!!


The amps we installed behind the rear seat since we removed the factory subwoofer. We also opted to use the factory panel to hide the amps instead making a visible amp rack. As it turns out where the factory sub was there are slits in the carpet that now let fresh air behind the factory panel. I’ll be reproducing this slots for the other amp.

How does it sound??
Ok...so this is where it gets interesting. I’ve owned many vehicles with systems but this is easily the best system I have ever had. The imaging and full sound with the midrange firing off the glass is phenomenal. Huge wide soundstage with plenty of depth and clarity. The only drawback I have is the tweet in the upper door. With this location it brings the soundstage down on the sides which is causing a “rainbow”. Not bad but is audible.

If you have any questions let me know.View attachment 8692View attachment 8693View attachment 8694View attachment 8696View attachment 8697View attachment 8698View attachment 8699View attachment 8700View attachment 8701View attachment 8704
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Is the factory amp on the back wall?
 
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