2019 ram HK system complete system upgrade

[ramButz]

100% agree. It’s sooo quiet. On the highway with a window open i can barely hear the music. It’s terrible.


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..its why i went all aftermarket !

 

[joeprice28]

Hoping to get some help from some of you that have already upgraded the HK system in our trucks. I’ve been reading and rereading the forums for weeks on this topic and still can’t decide what is the best route by the time I get to the end I think im more confused then I was at the beginning lol
so I have a 2019 Laramie crewcab level 2 with 12” inch screen and 19 speaker Harmon kardon system.
im looking to at least pull out the stock subwoofer and add an amp with 2 10” subs under the rear seat.
also Possibly upgrading all the speakers haven’t decided yet if it’s worth it or if it’s just another big can of worms so still on the fence about the speakers.
my number one question is what’s the best way to get the signal for the amp to run the subwoofers ? (in my 4th gen Ram I just pulled the stock sub and connected a 2 channel speaker wire to rca line out adapter) but from everything I’ve read no one is doing that in the 5th gen so I’m assuming there is a reason for that??
It looks like a lot of people are using the pac amp-pro ap4-ch41. That goes behind the head unit is that the best option???
ive also read about using the maestro ach4 but looks like that’s more if I want to remove the factory amp. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
please help with any other info or suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
like I said #1 goal remove stock sub.. add aftermarket Amp and subwoofers. Retaining factory head unit,amp, speakers.
#2 goal would also retaining factory head unit and amp but replacing all speakers with aftermarket plus add aftermarket amp and subwoofers.

I have the exact same question. Did you get a response?

 

[Ellisstrong]

I have the exact same question. Did you get a response?

Get the pac amppro as from everything I’ve been told that is the cleanest signal and simplest way to do what you all are trying to do. I have removed my factory sub, have the amppro, added 3 10’s and a 1500 watt amp and upgraded most of my factory speakers to infinity ones.

 

[ramButz]

Get the pac amppro as from everything I’ve been told that is the cleanest signal and simplest way to do what you all are trying to do. I have removed my factory sub, have the amppro, added 3 10’s and a 1500 watt amp and upgraded most of my factory speakers to infinity ones.

it makes "Life"so much easier and install a "breeze" .

 

[ramButz]

This is my local tech- Anthony, working on my truck, you can see him removing the panels- please give him a follow on youtube and like!

here is another video of my truck and issues

my exhaust

your vids are Great!

 

[ramButz]

 

[Xmacik]

So over the past weekend we did a total system upgrade and swap. The new system consists of:

Maestro dsr1
Focal Flax 3way
Us Acoustics “Mike” sub amp
JL Audio vxi 800/8 for the 3way
2-jl audio 13tw5(box will be ready tomorrow)
JL Audio 12tw3 in prefab(loaner until box is ready)

Background:
After many years of being a novice and competing is IASCA and modifying many vehicles I decided to keep this vehicle stealth or a stock look. No visible fabrication. Well except for the sub box.

Details:
We put the focal tweeters in the upper door stock speaker location.
Midrange in the stock dash corner locations.
Midbass in the lower door location.

This isn’t ideal for proper imaging but again I did not want to cut into the inner door panel to make the midrange fit in the door upper stock location. More on this later.

I’m having a box made for 2-13tw5 subs but the shop had a bit failure at the last second. They did give me a loaner sub in a prefab box from JL. This was a priceless gesture on their part. Kudos.

The maestro dsr1 we installed where the factory amp was since this equipment allows me to delete the factory amp/anc.
Side note on this. The resistors that come with the maestro make sure you solder instead of using the clips. This will help prevemt introducing noise in to the system. Thank you Michael Cook!!! For this tip.
We are using the dsr1 with all channels full range to flatten the factory signal and using the on board dsp with the JL vxi 800/8 for processing and crossovers.
I am able to eq individual channels on the vxi and then able to use the dsr1 as a master eq with the channels linked to help prevent phase issues. Using both also provides a powerful processing tool.
Forgot to add there is zero noise in the system. A complete black hole!!


The amps we installed behind the rear seat since we removed the factory subwoofer. We also opted to use the factory panel to hide the amps instead making a visible amp rack. As it turns out where the factory sub was there are slits in the carpet that now let fresh air behind the factory panel. I’ll be reproducing this slots for the other amp.

How does it sound??
Ok...so this is where it gets interesting. I’ve owned many vehicles with systems but this is easily the best system I have ever had. The imaging and full sound with the midrange firing off the glass is phenomenal. Huge wide soundstage with plenty of depth and clarity. The only drawback I have is the tweet in the upper door. With this location it brings the soundstage down on the sides which is causing a “rainbow”. Not bad but is audible.

If you have any questions let me know.View attachment 8692View attachment 8693View attachment 8694View attachment 8696View attachment 8697View attachment 8698View attachment 8699View attachment 8700View attachment 8701View attachment 8704

I’m building very similar sound system and have same speakers. Crutchfield states that 6.5” speakers won’t fit the doors. I see you have 6x9-6.5 adapters. Where did they come from and is there enough clearance for speaker?

 

[Ram FF]

I’m building very similar sound system and have same speakers. Crutchfield states that 6.5” speakers won’t fit the doors. I see you have 6x9-6.5 adapters. Where did they come from and is there enough clearance for speaker?

You can make your own adapter. Remove the 6x9 adapter from the door, turn it over and trace it onto some 1/2” material (mdf, plastic cutting board) and cut it out. Use a circle jig to cut out whatever mounting diameter your particular 6.5 calls for and mount the new adapter to the door. You can adjust the thickness of your homemade bracket to give you enough depth, but be mindful of the top mounting depth in relation to the panel when you put it back on.

 

[Xmacik]

You can make your own adapter. Remove the 6x9 adapter from the door, turn it over and trace it onto some 1/2” material (mdf, plastic cutting board) and cut it out. Use a circle jig to cut out whatever mounting diameter your particular 6.5 calls for and mount the new adapter to the door. You can adjust the thickness of your homemade bracket to give you enough depth, but be mindful of the top mounting depth in relation to the panel when you put it back on.

Thank you Ram FF.
I was looking for easy way out since 6.5 adapters are fairly cheap.
I ended up making my own from 1/4” abs.(took me 7 hours (with a few beers in between) for mid base and midrange brackets. I had to build my own circle jig for router but worked out great). Top mounting depth ended up being 5/8”- bbottom of bracket to speaker membrane. I forgot to measure alpine speaker TMD before I put the door panel back, but just measured door panel grill to alpine cloth on speaker and there is 1/2” space. If I remember correctly from just looking at alpine speaker TMD is around 1/2”. So I should have plenty of clearance. I ordered some door sound treatment and soundskinz speaker rings that I intend to use between speaker and door panel.

 

[James2019RAMLIMITED]

Hey guys I have a 2019 ram 1500 limited with the 19 speaker HK system and was wondering if I could replace just the 10 inch subprogram behind the seat with maybe a little more punch. How would I go about doing this as far as adding an Amp and stuff. Thanks

 

[Jaybro130]

Quick update (maybe nobody cares but might be useful).

I went back at the front doors and found a few things. Initially I was hoping to use 6x9 components in the doors but found the crossover point on the factory speakers was at about 1350 hz. Too low for a 3/4" Tweeter. I installed a 3500 hz bass blocker just to see how it all sounded. There was too big of a gap in mids, so I stuck with the 3.5s in the doors and will just keep the tweeters for another project or sell them. The rear doors are also not full range. The cut off point is around 1500hz. I'd prefer they just ran full range in the rear door, but with the headlinder speaker it sounds plenty full.

So my set up is:

Dash - 3 x 3.5 Infinity Reference
Front Doors - Infinity Reference 6x9 Component Mid Bass and 3.5 for mid and high.
Rear Doors - Infinity Reference 3 way
Rear Headliner - Infinity Reference 3.5s
Sub - PAC Amppro (for sub signal), JL10tw1-2,
Alpine MDR-M500

I'm running all speakers off of the factory amp (with exception of the sub). There is a slight reduction in volume but it's still plenty loud for my tastes. There is also a noticeable improvement in quality with smoother, more detailed mids and highs. The bass from the 6x9s was vastly improved. The stock 6x9s were pretty weak (paper) and sloppy.

This summer I may rebuild the box and run 2 JL 10s and a pioneer amp. I'd like just a little more air movement on the lows than what the single 10 can provide. I've disconnect the factory sub. It's just not that good. The infinity 6x9s add a lot of mid bass and really make the kick drum bump in rock music.

A note on the Metra adapters. I had to reverse the pins on all adapters with exception of the front door 3.5s. My guess is that doors are reverse phase from the rest of the speakers. I double checked each stock speaker with a battery to ensure I had the positive terminals correctly identified and matched up the adapters. So I'm certain that it is the same as how it came from the factory.

I Damped the front doors, rear doors, rear wall, and dash 3.5 locations. Added additional stinger roadkill carpet pad under front footwell. Added a MLV barrier to the rear wall.

It's pretty quiet in the cab and it's fun to listen to music and pick up things I'd not heard before. RAM gave a nice platform to work with on this truck and with a little elbow grease it's really shining. Wife thinks I'm silly but oh well.

 

[Jaybro130]

Will, I had this JL box installed and like it a lot. Running it with a JD 1000/1. I have since added the pac amp pro with kickers in the doors with a JL 4 ch amp. Since the dash/headliner speakers are still running off the factory amp, I am having time alignment issues. Driving me crazy! Have you added another amp to run your door speakers. If so, do you have this problem?

 

[Jaybro130]

Will, I had this JL box installed and like it a lot. Running it with a JD 1000/1. I have since added the pac amp pro with kickers in the doors with a JL 4 ch amp. Since the dash/headliner speakers are still running off the factory amp, I am having time alignment issues. Driving me crazy! Have you added another amp to run your door speakers. If so, do you have this problem?

 

[ramButz]

Will, I had this JL box installed and like it a lot. Running it with a JD 1000/1. I have since added the pac amp pro with kickers in the doors with a JL 4 ch amp. Since the dash/headliner speakers are still running off the factory amp, I am having time alignment issues. Driving me crazy! Have you added another amp to run your door speakers. If so, do you have this problem?

hey i set my up the same way.no problem though with time alignment.

 

[Jaybro130]

hey i set my up the same way.no problem though with time alignment.

I know, it’s weird...I’m contemplating pulling the amp pro and extra amp,out, keeping only the subs and amp running off of an LOC and the rest on factory. Talked to amp pro techs and they have never heard of this issue either.

 

[ramButz]

I know, it’s weird...I’m contemplating pulling the amp pro and extra amp,out, keeping only the subs and amp running off of an LOC and the rest on factory. Talked to amp pro techs and they have never heard of this issue either.

i have the front dash and rear roof running off the stock amp.the front have the "Infinity" and the rear are just stock(but they are rear fill only).but as for the doors are "focal"2way front and regular rockford.all are 6.5.running off a 5ch.had to have the "AmpPro though.the sub is powered by the 5th ch of the amp.i ran the door speakers wire straight to the amp("OldSchool")"Done!"no crazy add on's ,disconnecting the stock "Sub",or any other complicated stuff.why burden yourself with all that!.and as i said before many times...."How does it sound"?.....

 

[Jaybro130]

i have the front dash and rear roof running off the stock amp.the front have the "Infinity" and the rear are just stock(but they are rear fill only).but as for the doors are "focal"2way front and regular rockford.all are 6.5.running off a 5ch.had to have the "AmpPro though.the sub is powered by the 5th ch of the amp.i ran the door speakers wire straight to the amp("OldSchool")"Done!"no crazy add on's ,disconnecting the stock "Sub",or any other complicated stuff.why burden yourself with all that!.and as i said before many times...."How does it sound"?.....

Rambutz: I have the same...front dash and rear headliner speakers on factory amp and the doors are kickers with a 4 channel amp. Sounds great because the door speakers fill the void that was absent with the factory amp. Read earlier the front and rear door speakers are crossed over at mid freqs, so now, they are running full range (crossed over at 80 hz). Sounds great on most types of music...very clean...but put it on talk radio and the timing alignment is very prevalent. Driving me crazy! I'm wondering if I need to replace the dash and headliner speakers? I read somewhere that the dash were 8 ohm and most people are replacing them with 4 ohm. Don't know why that would make a difference with timing tho?

 

[ramButz]

Rambutz: I have the same...front dash and rear headliner speakers on factory amp and the doors are kickers with a 4 channel amp. Sounds great because the door speakers fill the void that was absent with the factory amp. Read earlier the front and rear door speakers are crossed over at mid freqs, so now, they are running full range (crossed over at 80 hz). Sounds great on most types of music...very clean...but put it on talk radio and the timing alignment is very prevalent. Driving me crazy! I'm wondering if I need to replace the dash and headliner speakers? I read somewhere that the dash were 8 ohm and most people are replacing them with 4 ohm. Don't know why that would make a difference with timing tho?

yes i to listen to talk radio also.I listen to the "JimRome"during the day in my truck.still sounds great.no problem...so far

 

[Jaybro130]

yes i to listen to talk radio also.I listen to the "JimRome"during the day in my truck.still sounds great.no problem...so far

Question...did you disable the chimes in the amp pro app? My installer didn’t do it and time alignment is definitely noticeable when the parking sensors go off. I assume you have the HK with the amp under the dash?

 

[ramButz]

Question...did you disable the chimes in the amp pro app? My installer didn’t do it and time alignment is definitely noticeable when the parking sensors go off. I assume you have the HK with the amp under the dash?

hey i know what you mean.you i put it in reverse its all crazy when it "Beeps/chirps".what i did was turn off the "Chime/beep"audio and just use the camera.so much better now.didnt like it when it was all stock to.i have the "Alpine.not bad but it just wouldnt play loud enough when i turn it upPlus i had alot of audio stuff around in my garage(spkers/Amps/etc)i mean may as well put it to use.also what i found with that "AmpPro" switches in the back...they dont do "JackSchitz".dont know why there but for me....NOTHING(all this is just"MHO").the only thing the "AmpPro"do (IMHO)is simplify the installation between the "HeadUnit and Amp"