ST3500
Active Member
I have this under the driver's side dash next to the brake pedal.
Your last picture showing the module "P68454512AA" is the power amplifier.
You have the Harman kardon 17 speakers, 10 channels 750W system.
I have this under the driver's side dash next to the brake pedal.
Wow I can only imagine the time and expense it cost you to do all the mods. My comment that the HK system was crud seems to have been met with mostly comments saying others feel its excellent. So I must have different ears than the others as I feel it’s a total disappointment . It’s whole design is very poor and I would love to go to the lengths you did but just too much work. I’d be interested to know what speakers you used for the left and right dash units as I have tried to replace these but they all are very low in volume to the factory HK units which I can only assume need much less power to drive them.So over the past weekend we did a total system upgrade and swap. The new system consists of:
Maestro dsr1
Focal Flax 3way
Us Acoustics “Mike” sub amp
JL Audio vxi 800/8 for the 3way
2-jl audio 13tw5(box will be ready tomorrow)
JL Audio 12tw3 in prefab(loaner until box is ready)
Background:
After many years of being a novice and competing is IASCA and modifying many vehicles I decided to keep this vehicle stealth or a stock look. No visible fabrication. Well except for the sub box.
Details:
We put the focal tweeters in the upper door stock speaker location.
Midrange in the stock dash corner locations.
Midbass in the lower door location.
This isn’t ideal for proper imaging but again I did not want to cut into the inner door panel to make the midrange fit in the door upper stock location. More on this later.
I’m having a box made for 2-13tw5 subs but the shop had a bit failure at the last second. They did give me a loaner sub in a prefab box from JL. This was a priceless gesture on their part. Kudos.
The maestro dsr1 we installed where the factory amp was since this equipment allows me to delete the factory amp/anc.
Side note on this. The resistors that come with the maestro make sure you solder instead of using the clips. This will help prevemt introducing noise in to the system. Thank you Michael Cook!!! For this tip.
We are using the dsr1 with all channels full range to flatten the factory signal and using the on board dsp with the JL vxi 800/8 for processing and crossovers.
I am able to eq individual channels on the vxi and then able to use the dsr1 as a master eq with the channels linked to help prevent phase issues. Using both also provides a powerful processing tool.
Forgot to add there is zero noise in the system. A complete black hole!!
The amps we installed behind the rear seat since we removed the factory subwoofer. We also opted to use the factory panel to hide the amps instead making a visible amp rack. As it turns out where the factory sub was there are slits in the carpet that now let fresh air behind the factory panel. I’ll be reproducing this slots for the other amp.
How does it sound??
Ok...so this is where it gets interesting. I’ve owned many vehicles with systems but this is easily the best system I have ever had. The imaging and full sound with the midrange firing off the glass is phenomenal. Huge wide soundstage with plenty of depth and clarity. The only drawback I have is the tweet in the upper door. With this location it brings the soundstage down on the sides which is causing a “rainbow”. Not bad but is audible.
If you have any questions let me know.View attachment 8692View attachment 8693View attachment 8694View attachment 8696View attachment 8697View attachment 8698View attachment 8699View attachment 8700View attachment 8701View attachment 8704
Wow I can only imagine the time and expense it cost you to do all the mods. My comment that the HK system was crud seems to have been met with mostly comments saying others feel its excellent. So I must have different ears than the others as I feel it’s a total disappointment . It’s whole design is very poor and I would love to go to the lengths you did but just too much work. I’d be interested to know what speakers you used for the left and right dash units as I have tried to replace these but they all are very low in volume to the factory HK units which I can only assume need much less power to drive them.
I replaced almost all of my speakers with infinity’s and added subs with the ampproHoping to get some help from some of you that have already upgraded the HK system in our trucks. I’ve been reading and rereading the forums for weeks on this topic and still can’t decide what is the best route by the time I get to the end I think im more confused then I was at the beginning lol
so I have a 2019 Laramie crewcab level 2 with 12” inch screen and 19 speaker Harmon kardon system.
im looking to at least pull out the stock subwoofer and add an amp with 2 10” subs under the rear seat.
also Possibly upgrading all the speakers haven’t decided yet if it’s worth it or if it’s just another big can of worms so still on the fence about the speakers.
my number one question is what’s the best way to get the signal for the amp to run the subwoofers ? (in my 4th gen Ram I just pulled the stock sub and connected a 2 channel speaker wire to rca line out adapter) but from everything I’ve read no one is doing that in the 5th gen so I’m assuming there is a reason for that??
It looks like a lot of people are using the pac amp-pro ap4-ch41. That goes behind the head unit is that the best option???
ive also read about using the maestro ach4 but looks like that’s more if I want to remove the factory amp. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
please help with any other info or suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
like I said #1 goal remove stock sub.. add aftermarket Amp and subwoofers. Retaining factory head unit,amp, speakers.
#2 goal would also retaining factory head unit and amp but replacing all speakers with aftermarket plus add aftermarket amp and subwoofers.
I want to put infinity’s in my upper doors and thought they could work with a spacer. Do you have any pics of what you had to do?Quick update (maybe nobody cares but might be useful).
I went back at the front doors and found a few things. Initially I was hoping to use 6x9 components in the doors but found the crossover point on the factory speakers was at about 1350 hz. Too low for a 3/4" Tweeter. I installed a 3500 hz bass blocker just to see how it all sounded. There was too big of a gap in mids, so I stuck with the 3.5s in the doors and will just keep the tweeters for another project or sell them. The rear doors are also not full range. The cut off point is around 1500hz. I'd prefer they just ran full range in the rear door, but with the headlinder speaker it sounds plenty full.
So my set up is:
Dash - 3 x 3.5 Infinity Reference
Front Doors - Infinity Reference 6x9 Component Mid Bass and 3.5 for mid and high.
Rear Doors - Infinity Reference 3 way
Rear Headliner - Infinity Reference 3.5s
Sub - PAC Amppro (for sub signal), JL10tw1-2,
Alpine MDR-M500
I'm running all speakers off of the factory amp (with exception of the sub). There is a slight reduction in volume but it's still plenty loud for my tastes. There is also a noticeable improvement in quality with smoother, more detailed mids and highs. The bass from the 6x9s was vastly improved. The stock 6x9s were pretty weak (paper) and sloppy.
This summer I may rebuild the box and run 2 JL 10s and a pioneer amp. I'd like just a little more air movement on the lows than what the single 10 can provide. I've disconnect the factory sub. It's just not that good. The infinity 6x9s add a lot of mid bass and really make the kick drum bump in rock music.
A note on the Metra adapters. I had to reverse the pins on all adapters with exception of the front door 3.5s. My guess is that doors are reverse phase from the rest of the speakers. I double checked each stock speaker with a battery to ensure I had the positive terminals correctly identified and matched up the adapters. So I'm certain that it is the same as how it came from the factory.
I Damped the front doors, rear doors, rear wall, and dash 3.5 locations. Added additional stinger roadkill carpet pad under front footwell. Added a MLV barrier to the rear wall.
It's pretty quiet in the cab and it's fun to listen to music and pick up things I'd not heard before. RAM gave a nice platform to work with on this truck and with a little elbow grease it's really shining. Wife thinks I'm silly but oh well.
I'm adding a sub soon, guess I'm may bite the bullet and get the Amppro. I read the instructions and I'm a little confused on the programming setup on it. I guess if just using it for a sub, you don't have to worry about the chime volume? Did you adjust any of the Bass frequencies or the Q factor. This is a bit much for me to comprehend at the moment, and is way more than I need. I would be fine just tapping into one of the speaker channels for a hi level signal to my ampI replaced almost all of my speakers with infinity’s and added subs with the amppro
I Just upgraded the front and rear 6x9 on my ram-also did sound deadening behind doors on the sheet metal. The technician made videos and clips of how todo it- i will upload the links soonI want to put infinity’s in my upper doors and thought they could work with a spacer. Do you have any pics of what you had to do?
Dont be intimidated by the AmpPro interface. You just hook it up, all the extra stuff, is just that, extra.I'm adding a sub soon, guess I'm may bite the bullet and get the Amppro. I read the instructions and I'm a little confused on the programming setup on it. I guess if just using it for a sub, you don't have to worry about the chime volume? Did you adjust any of the Bass frequencies or the Q factor. This is a bit much for me to comprehend at the moment, and is way more than I need. I would be fine just tapping into one of the speaker channels for a hi level signal to my amp
oh wow thanks so much.your the 2nd person who told me that(about dont worry about those switches in the back)like you said just plug it in and go.i have one and was concern about adjust those little "DipSwitches"in the back.he said like you.just plug it inDont be intimidated by the AmpPro interface. You just hook it up, all the extra stuff, is just that, extra.
The crossover adjustments and all that are there to help "fine tune" the EQ that is built into the stock radio. You don't have to adjust that at all if you dont want to. I leave the stock EQ flat.
For me the chimes work fine. The sound level can be adjusted, but its seems proven that in our system that is not necessary either. Certainly not needed if you just run it for sub only.
All you need to do is install the harness, plug in the box and then run the RCA's, Remote and bass knob. Good to go.
Good luck!
i saw this at "HomeDepot"of all places...https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pioneer-12-in-Compact-Preloaded-Subwoofer-Enclosure-TS-WX126B/313438617I was able to fit a pair of these boxes with the stock sub removed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shallow-Mount-Sub-Woofer-Speaker-Enclosure-12-Sealed-Truck-Box/231173491791?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I had to un-pin the ANC because of the drone it was generating. I used the stock sub output to feed my amps high level input. When starting the truck, the sound of the engine would come through the new sub setup in an attempt to cancel the engine startup noise. But with a bit of gain on the amp, I was not cancelling the noise, but instead creating it. It sounded like the motor was behind my back seats.
- Width: 18"
- Height: 15"
- Depth back to front on bottom: 7.25"
- Depth back to front on top: 5.50"
Once engine reached idle and not traveling, the sound went away, but would return at RPM's between 1200-2100 or so.
When traveling at speed, it would drone to the tune of the motor.
After un-pinning the ANC, the ONLY difference in sound I hear is a very minor - almost insignificant - engine drone at highway speeds. This is the sound of the motor itself coming through the cab. No other wind noise/road noise/etc changed what-so-ever.
I believe the ANC is only to offset motor noise.
hey when i install my "AmpPro"do i have to"Cycle"the truck?...you know"Turn to Run"let it sit for 5min and do it one one more time.i guess it says so "the stock system can recognize it self or something like that?Hoping to get some help from some of you that have already upgraded the HK system in our trucks. I’ve been reading and rereading the forums for weeks on this topic and still can’t decide what is the best route by the time I get to the end I think im more confused then I was at the beginning lol
so I have a 2019 Laramie crewcab level 2 with 12” inch screen and 19 speaker Harmon kardon system.
im looking to at least pull out the stock subwoofer and add an amp with 2 10” subs under the rear seat.
also Possibly upgrading all the speakers haven’t decided yet if it’s worth it or if it’s just another big can of worms so still on the fence about the speakers.
my number one question is what’s the best way to get the signal for the amp to run the subwoofers ? (in my 4th gen Ram I just pulled the stock sub and connected a 2 channel speaker wire to rca line out adapter) but from everything I’ve read no one is doing that in the 5th gen so I’m assuming there is a reason for that??
It looks like a lot of people are using the pac amp-pro ap4-ch41. That goes behind the head unit is that the best option???
ive also read about using the maestro ach4 but looks like that’s more if I want to remove the factory amp. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
please help with any other info or suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
like I said #1 goal remove stock sub.. add aftermarket Amp and subwoofers. Retaining factory head unit,amp, speakers.
#2 goal would also retaining factory head unit and amp but replacing all speakers with aftermarket plus add aftermarket amp and subwoofers.
Is that a cat-back, the B2 kit, or just a muffler swap? Sounds good.my exhaust
This is the full cat back systemIs that a cat-back, the B2 kit, or just a muffler swap? Sounds good.
Not sure if you have it listed but where did you purchase this?I have the 12 inch screen. I had the same fear you did but it all turned out great with no issues at all. In fact better than I imagined it would be. This platform dodge has makes for a killer sounding system. Here is a box for you. This is a stage 2 and go up to a stage 4 depending on how flashy you want. Factory matching leather and stictching and they also ship I believe for 80 bucks View attachment 8705
That is a mtiacoustics.com boxNot sure if you have it listed but where did you purchase this?
I don't.... Sorry I just never took them and don't want to pull the panels off. I had to Dremel a small amount the factory shield and screw into that as well to make it work.I want to put infinity’s in my upper doors and thought they could work with a spacer. Do you have any pics of what you had to do?
I assume that's what this harness is...(see circled item in picture)
Ap4-ch41