2019 ram HK system complete system upgrade

[Jimmyb]

So over the past weekend we did a total system upgrade and swap. The new system consists of:

Maestro dsr1
Focal Flax 3way
Us Acoustics “Mike” sub amp
JL Audio vxi 800/8 for the 3way
2-jl audio 13tw5(box will be ready tomorrow)
JL Audio 12tw3 in prefab(loaner until box is ready)

Background:
After many years of being a novice and competing is IASCA and modifying many vehicles I decided to keep this vehicle stealth or a stock look. No visible fabrication. Well except for the sub box.

Details:
We put the focal tweeters in the upper door stock speaker location.
Midrange in the stock dash corner locations.
Midbass in the lower door location.

This isn’t ideal for proper imaging but again I did not want to cut into the inner door panel to make the midrange fit in the door upper stock location. More on this later.

I’m having a box made for 2-13tw5 subs but the shop had a bit failure at the last second. They did give me a loaner sub in a prefab box from JL. This was a priceless gesture on their part. Kudos.

The maestro dsr1 we installed where the factory amp was since this equipment allows me to delete the factory amp/anc.
Side note on this. The resistors that come with the maestro make sure you solder instead of using the clips. This will help prevemt introducing noise in to the system. Thank you Michael Cook!!! For this tip.
We are using the dsr1 with all channels full range to flatten the factory signal and using the on board dsp with the JL vxi 800/8 for processing and crossovers.
I am able to eq individual channels on the vxi and then able to use the dsr1 as a master eq with the channels linked to help prevent phase issues. Using both also provides a powerful processing tool.
Forgot to add there is zero noise in the system. A complete black hole!!


The amps we installed behind the rear seat since we removed the factory subwoofer. We also opted to use the factory panel to hide the amps instead making a visible amp rack. As it turns out where the factory sub was there are slits in the carpet that now let fresh air behind the factory panel. I’ll be reproducing this slots for the other amp.

How does it sound??
Ok...so this is where it gets interesting. I’ve owned many vehicles with systems but this is easily the best system I have ever had. The imaging and full sound with the midrange firing off the glass is phenomenal. Huge wide soundstage with plenty of depth and clarity. The only drawback I have is the tweet in the upper door. With this location it brings the soundstage down on the sides which is causing a “rainbow”. Not bad but is audible.

If you have any questions let me know.

Thanks for all the info!

Why did you go with the vxi 800/8 instead of the 600/6?

 

[Bacoviah]

Thanks for all the info!

Why did you go with the vxi 800/8 instead of the 600/6?

I wanted more power to the midbass so I bridged a couple channels

 

[Jimmyb]

I wanted more power to the midbass so I bridged a couple channels

Do all the lights dim when you have it cranked?

 

[Rob3989]

Do all the lights dim when you have it cranked?

With a 220amp alt and class d amp chances are no. I had 2 big class ab amps on a 220 Alt and lots more power and it didn’t even dim

 

[Bacoviah]

Do all the lights dim when you have it cranked?

Not at all. Proper wire size and grounds and plenty of juice from a beefy power supply. Also both amps are super efficient.

 

[Rob3989]

I’m adding 3 amps to my set up. They arrive today. I doubt that will even put a strain on the system. I do have a xs d4800 battery that will replace the stock and ill do the big 3 upgrade as well. I’ll start a build log when everything behinds.

 

[EJanx07]

I did a total factory amp delete which also houses the ANC.

Is the deletion of the ANC (disconnecting the mic’s wires at factory amp) required with the Maestro? I’d like to keep the ANC if possible. I guess, I don’t understand what’s the need of a T-Harness, if you still neeed to disconnect the ANC. I have the amplified 6 speaker system in my Big Horn. I Upgraded the rear door 6x9’s, and added a mono amp and sub. He said the polarity is correct, at all door and dash speakers.
The stereo store tech, installed a PAC L7 L.O.C. I had a PAC L3, but during installation, he told me I needed the L7, due to system interface etc... didn’t work... A ridiculous amount of feedback noise comes from only the sub now. So I had him disconnect the fosgate amp/sub from the factory Amp/ANC, till I can find a solution...
Thank you!

 

[EJanx07]

There are a quite a few solid threads on here about adding a sub.

It's not hard as long as you're comfortable doing a few electrical things and taking your time.

Check out the subwoofer thread. That one has quite a few good points and some box dimensions/ideas as well.

If you're thinking a 12", you'll definitely need to use all of the underseat area and you'll want to think about whether you want access to the bins, then build the box accordingly.

Some on here have tapped into various speaker level inputs to obtain signals. Others (me included) used a PAC Amppro to easily get a signal from the stock head unit.

Either way, read up, take notes, and come up with a plan.

Feel free to ask questions along the way. This forum is very helpful.

Is there a specific PAC AmpPro that you used? Can you share the exact item number you used? Or are they universal? My guess, is the harnesses are vehicle specific? Newby here....

 

[Rob3989]

Is there a specific PAC AmpPro that you used? Can you share the exact item number you used? Or are they universal? My guess, is the harnesses are vehicle specific? Newby here....

Ap4-ch41

 

[Bacoviah]

Is the deletion of the ANC (disconnecting the mic’s wires at factory amp) required with the Maestro? I’d like to keep the ANC if possible. I guess, I don’t understand what’s the need of a T-Harness, if you still neeed to disconnect the ANC. I have the amplified 6 speaker system in my Big Horn. I Upgraded the rear door 6x9’s, and added a mono amp and sub. He said the polarity is correct, at all door and dash speakers.
The stereo store tech, installed a PAC L7 L.O.C. I had a PAC L3, but during installation, he told me I needed the L7, due to system interface etc... didn’t work... A ridiculous amount of feedback noise comes from only the sub now. So I had him disconnect the fosgate amp/sub from the factory Amp/ANC, till I can find a solution...
Thank you!

I have the upgraded HK system which the anc/amp are all one unit. So I had no choice but to delete

 

[Rob3989]

I have the upgraded HK system which the anc/amp are all one unit. So I had no choice but to delete

I have the HK system as well. Noise cancellation pretty much has to be deleted when you run a sub i think it messes with it ?

 

[wildh24]

I have the HK system as well. Noise cancellation pretty much has to be deleted when you run a sub i think it messes with it ?

It didn't mess with mine...I ran Amppro and aftermarket sub. I disconnect the stock sub though. Sounded like poo in comparison.

I did get the drone a little bit, but I don't think that it had anything to do with sub. I think it was there before and only became noticable after replacing the 6x9s (much better bass response).

There are a lot of people who are having ANC issues without touching the speakers. All similar descriptions of low drone with people in back seat when ECO kicks in.

 

[bryanc4321]

I have the 12” screen and used to T4 maestro harness. The only things that I have noticed are the chimes aren’t as loud as far as the collision sensors. I’m not using rear speakers so I have no rear backing chime. I knew this going in though. For me I have no drawbacks but others might disagree.

Very Impressed!!! New to this forum and first post: Question... I desire a similar setup, but also want to have the back door and overhead speakers to work, and also want all the factory chimes and such to work. Since the Maestro is only 8 channel (and you bridged 2), all channels are accounted for. Would I need a 2nd Maestro to handle the additional 4 channels (along with a 2nd amp) or can I just split the output from the Maestro's frond door speakers to a second amp and go from there. My concern is that you said you don't have rear park-sense chimes, is that because you didn't utilize the stock rear speaker wiring input into the Maestro (leads me to think I need a 2nd Maestro) or some other reason entirely...??? I guess I'm just confused on that part of the process. Also, do you have pictures of the Maestro installed in its location under the seat? Appreciate any advice you may have!

 

[Bacoviah]

Very Impressed!!! New to this forum and first post: Question... I desire a similar setup, but also want to have the back door and overhead speakers to work, and also want all the factory chimes and such to work. Since the Maestro is only 8 channel (and you bridged 2), all channels are accounted for. Would I need a 2nd Maestro to handle the additional 4 channels (along with a 2nd amp) or can I just split the output from the Maestro's frond door speakers to a second amp and go from there. My concern is that you said you don't have rear park-sense chimes, is that because you didn't utilize the stock rear speaker wiring input into the Maestro (leads me to think I need a 2nd Maestro) or some other reason entirely...??? I guess I'm just confused on that part of the process. Also, do you have pictures of the Maestro installed in its location under the seat? Appreciate any advice you may have!

Thanks. ctually I’m using the dsr1 to flatten the signal only. I’m only using 2 channels coming out of the dsr1 into my jl vxi 800/8. All you need to do is the same except run wire for you amp to your rear speakers....but you do need enough channels of processing to do this. If you want to use more than 8 speakers you would need another processor. The JL Audio vxi has a built in processor and you can daisy chain them together using a hub. Or........you could use the passive crossovers for the front and save a few channels and the run wires to the back speakers

 

[wildh24]

Doors anyone know the impedance of the stock 6x9s and 3.5s on the HK system?

 

[sswails1]

Doors anyone know the impedance of the stock 6x9s and 3.5s on the HK system?

The 3.5’s are 4 ohm on the HK.

 

[wildh24]

The 3.5’s are 4 ohm on the HK.

Thanks. I lost a bit of volume going to Infinity Reference from stock. Was surprised and was wondering if that was the reason. Not a big deal but it is noticable.

 

[Patsy1099]

Thanks. I lost a bit of volume going to Infinity Reference from stock. Was surprised and was wondering if that was the reason. Not a big deal but it is noticable.

Infinity ref are right in that range 3-3.5 ohm, I believe? I wouldn’t think that would result in loss of volume. I think you would have to compare the total decibel output vs one another though.

 

[wildh24]

Infinity ref are right in that range 3-3.5 ohm, I believe? I wouldn’t think that would result in loss of volume. I think you would have to compare the total decibel output vs one another though.

You are correct. That is right where they are rated.

The mids and highs aren't quite as loud. They are better sounding to my ear in all frequencies so it's worth it. I don't need huge SPL. Was mostly just wondering if that was the cause.

 

[Patsy1099]

You are correct. That is right where they are rated.

The mids and highs aren't quite as loud. They are better sounding to my ear in all frequencies so it's worth it. I don't need huge SPL. Was mostly just wondering if that was the cause.

I find mine to be the opposite, they became very bright. Probably because the stock 3.5s were 8ohm so that a big diff. I’m in the process of adding a sub (and amp) because while the sound is bright and crisp, I lost to much low end.