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2019 Ram 1500 5th wheel towing

I'm not commenting on his rims or paint job or anything else that's subjective; people's lives are at stake, his and/or other newbies who come in, read the thread, and get the wrong idea.

But I get the hint and I'll move on.


If you are mistaken I’ll be a happy to clear it up a little.



A 5th wheel with a 1500 coiled rear suspension in ANY case (other than 1 I saw that was a custom built with a single axel unit) is FOOLISH at best

I don’t give a damn about the wheels tires (I lied I care about tires too) paint or otherwise. It’s the simple fact that wirh my 1500 I wouldn’t even tow an enclosed 14’ trailer let alone an RV in similar size

Here is my set up with a 3500
3e6766abd8551e6f512e28f8957c8609.jpg
though the dealer would let me believe a 2500 would tow it even though I would exceed its RAWR but what do I know.


My 1500 on the other hand, that’s a people hauler and grocery getter, as it’s the only thing it’s really good for with its passenger tires and all



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Well NN you’ve got the towing experience to back up your point.

I like that blue as well, reminds me of my 77 GMC 3500 crew cab which I used to pull a stick framed 24 TT that probably weighed 6000 empty (stupid heavy trailer). Back then I was running the trailer on car tires and just loaded the truck till the spring pack squatted. How we lived I don’t know. In the mts of BC no less, with drum brakes on each unit.

What, 2 lemon Ferds? Do you mean lemon lawed or just not good trucks you sold off?

Appreciate your comments, there has to be balance on both sides. As I've gotten older I’m not as willing to endanger everyone on the roads, ha ha.

People who go to rv shows sometimes leave with a purchased trailer then go home and wonder what to do with their 150/1500. They spend $$$ on mods, and the truck looks level, so they tow with it. Happened all the time on the F150 forum... then they‘d post up and wonder why their combo was “white knuckling” the whole time. Gee, dunno...:unsure:

Now I’m not saying that they were all clueless, some were professional drivers who felt they knew their trucks limits and only took the trailer out 4-5 times a year on good flat highways. For them, it worked. For others, well, not so much.

Them’s the ones I’m concerned about, as well as their families...
This has been good reading, some excellent research on axles and gcvwr and such. Hopefully it gives the new trailer owner some thought.

Happy camping everyone.
 
Well NN you’ve got the towing experience to back up your point.

I like that blue as well, reminds me of my 77 GMC 3500 crew cab which I used to pull a stick framed 24 TT that probably weighed 6000 empty (stupid heavy trailer). Back then I was running the trailer on car tires and just loaded the truck till the spring pack squatted. How we lived I don’t know. In the mts of BC no less, with drum brakes on each unit.

What, 2 lemon Ferds? Do you mean lemon lawed or just not good trucks you sold off?

Appreciate your comments, there has to be balance on both sides. As I've gotten older I’m not as willing to endanger everyone on the roads, ha ha.

People who go to rv shows sometimes leave with a purchased trailer then go home and wonder what to do with their 150/1500. They spend $$$ on mods, and the truck looks level, so they tow with it. Happened all the time on the F150 forum... then they‘d post up and wonder why their combo was “white knuckling” the whole time. Gee, dunno...:unsure:

Now I’m not saying that they were all clueless, some were professional drivers who felt they knew their trucks limits and only took the trailer out 4-5 times a year on good flat highways. For them, it worked. For others, well, not so much.

Them’s the ones I’m concerned about, as well as their families...
This has been good reading, some excellent research on axles and gcvwr and such. Hopefully it gives the new trailer owner some thought.

Happy camping everyone.

NM offers some very interesting towing situations. High desert, high elevation mountain passes, wind wind wind

I appreciate the color as well and thanks. I like the look and it’s not a common color, at least I don’t see many.

BC is no joke especially on that trailer set up you had ha. Funny how the 150/1500s towing anything larger than a small utility trailer tend to get a moment of enlightenment when driving on a mountain pass with a 1,000 cliff and some wind sheer pushes them towards the abyss. Ask me how I know. After that, threads like this kill me.

I don’t care how much the truck can “tow”. I don’t care there is a safety margin built in.

I care about the feel and I care about physics.

Look, a 1500 has a place and it’s an important staple of North America, but it comes with its trade offs. Towing is not a strong suite especially the 1500 rams with coils. If they had leafs it could be different but only marginally so. It comes down to many things and some the 1500 just doesn’t do well by design.
Hook up that boat (within reason) that’s side by side or utility trailer but individuals shouldn’t try to justify its use as being on par or capable in areas it’s not.




My fords were 100% declared...loved those trucks but 2 times in a row, won’t fool me again. That said I’ll be curious to see how the 2020s hold up. My duramax trucks were solid, minus the front end of course but combined the milage has been significant and the experiences and lessons learned have been too, costly in some instances.


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There is a difference between towing a trailer under normal conditions, and controlling a trailer under extreme/emergency conditions.

You are way over on your payload; 9000 lbs * 20% = 1800 lbs tongue weight, that's just the trailer. Now add hitch, cargo and passengers, probably north of 2200 pounds... on a fully decked out limited which has what, max 1300 pounds payload?

This is the definition of "too little of a truck", and others reading this should not follow your example. They make 2500's for this very scenario.
There is a difference between towing a trailer under normal conditions, and controlling a trailer under extreme/emergency conditions.

You are way over on your payload; 9000 lbs * 20% = 1800 lbs tongue weight, that's just the trailer. Now add hitch, cargo and passengers, probably north of 2200 pounds... on a fully decked out limited which has what, max 1300 pounds payload?

This is the definition of "too little of a truck", and others reading this should not follow your example. They make 2500's for this very scenario.
Certainly glad you know more about my RAM than I do. I am indeed towing within the capabilities.
 
Thats certainly an attractive 5 er. Whats the pin weight and rear axle weights? The frontal sail is nicely curved which does help you out.
I fully realize that people will "tow what they want to tow" and often there's a big economic and comfort argument for the 1500 as the TV. IMHO I just would prefer people opt for the gasser 2500 (diesels don't give that much payload addition) or move up to the DRW 3500 if a diesel.

If one stays out of the mts and doesn't drive 80 mph then maybe it's ok. However I have seen the swaying rigs (usually due to poorly weighed and set up hitches and improper tongue weights) going down the road and it's an accident waiting' to happen.
Yours seems like it's the best of what can be done, good hitch etc as long as you aren't exceeding suspension/tire capabilities.

Enjoy your trailer and your Ltd. (Well, it appears you do already!) :) I don't want people thinking that I'm constantly negative about 1500's towing. If properly set up they can usually do the job adequately, just how many people really get their set up correctly? If you do (and it appears you did) then "drive on".
I am retired and in no hurry. Right lane and 55/60. Also learned many years ago to read other drivers and drive three rigs ahead.
 
Lots of people worry about the ability to stop. A good 5er with brakes properly set stops as well or even better than a bare truck. Well, that's what It seemed like to me-I did not actually test it.
Always set the trailer to do 60% of the breaking. That way all stays in a straight line.
 
Not much brings out differing opinions more than tow capacity, well maybe except diesel vs gas...
The point is, if you tow heavy (for a 1500), better know your equipment, keep it maintained and follow established guidelines.
No LEO’s will be inspecting/weighing you down here so you can do as you please. Just look at the CDL world if you want an example of how crazy regulated things can be. Imagine what rv drivers would face if there was that level of scrutiny. Hopefully its not coming to us.
Happy camping.
 
I guess the first thing I would tell a first timer is start light. Just because he has a 3500 capable of pulling a 22000# trailer definitely is not advisable. Just like pulling at the upper limits of a 1500 is not a good idea for a newbie to pulling. Been pulling for 40+ years, and know my equipment well, so feel comfortable doing what I do and the way I do it. I keep speeds down and drive defensibly.
 
Always set the trailer to do 60% of the breaking. That way all stays in a straight line.

Trailer brakes are not for stopping the truck. You are doing this because the trailer is waggin the truck. An appropriate size truck will not have this problem.

For the new people to towing, if you see your trailer swaying (waggin), first is of course to slow down. Second is to manually apply the trailer brakes, which should stop the swaying. Do not apply the truck brakes, as you can make it worse, until the trailer is under control.
 
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Start off towing smaller/lighter. Thats good advice there.
Most rvers buy something bigger later on. That seems to be the general progression.
 
Trailer brakes are not for stopping the truck. You are doing this because the trailer is waggin the truck. An appropriate size truck will not have this problem.

For the new people to towing, if you see your trailer swaying (waggin), first is of course to slow down. Second is to manually apply the trailer brakes, which should stop the swaying. Do not apply the truck brakes, as you can make it worse, until the trailer is under control.
I am glad you know why I do what I do. You are clairvoyant. Actually, if you did much rv towing, you would know that RV's sets the trailer to brake more than the truck. It is called stretch breaking, and it keeps the truck and trailer in a straight line in case of an emergency stop. You are correct in how to end wagging the tail, but it is far more common with tow-behinds, not fivers.
 
Trailer brakes are not for stopping the truck. You are doing this because the trailer is waggin the truck. An appropriate size truck will not have this problem.
What are you even talking about, and what did you read to cause you to say this?
 
For those who are curious on braking, this is good starting point with an RV.

1) Set the brake controller to your gain (whatever feels right) with an empty trailer

2) Put your truck in Drive but keep your foot in the brake

3) Grab the brake controller slider and squeeze it

4) let off your brake (make sure you’re not uphill. I prefer a slight downhill slope even over level terrain)


If your truck moves forward, simply adjust your gain. Once you find the spot where your truck will not move that is the lower limit for THAT trailer. As you add weight your gain should go up so that you adjust for the increased weight.

It’s not science but it works well and I use that to find my starting points. I ended up needing to go up to 6.5 on my gain when initially I thought 5.5-6 would do it.

Side note, this also is an indicator of brakes needing adjustment. If you gain is normally 5 and over time it requires 5.5 or 6 to stop it you could be ready for some adjustments.

Have fun and safe travels.


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For those who are curious on braking, this is good starting point with an RV.

1) Set the brake controller to your gain (whatever feels right) with an empty trailer

2) Put your truck in Drive but keep your foot in the brake

3) Grab the brake controller slider and squeeze it

4) let off your brake (make sure you’re not uphill. I prefer a slight downhill slope even over level terrain)


If your truck moves forward, simply adjust your gain. Once you find the spot where your truck will not move that is the lower limit for THAT trailer. As you add weight your gain should go up so that you adjust for the increased weight.

It’s not science but it works well and I use that to find my starting points. I ended up needing to go up to 6.5 on my gain when initially I thought 5.5-6 would do it.

Side note, this also is an indicator of brakes needing adjustment. If you gain is normally 5 and over time it requires 5.5 or 6 to stop it you could be ready for some adjustments.

Have fun and safe travels.


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Good point and info. I have learned to set it by feel, but have been towing since the 70's. Also, the RAM sets up just a little differently. Started with a little 15' Aladin, and have steadily moved up from there. Had a 40' Triumph at 16000#dry for quite a few years, but just don't need anything that big now.
 
I am using Andersen Hitches 3220 Gooseneck for my RV because this product is rated at 4,500 pounds tongue weight and 24,000 pounds GTWR. I also noticed that we could adjust it to three heights, being 19 1/8 inches upper position (measured from the truck bed to the top of ball mount). I think everyone can try to use it.
 
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View attachment 4659034' fiver and a 1500 Limited. B&W and Andersen Ultimate hitch. 10 mpg on 2500 miles and NO problems. Tow what you are comfortable with, but a 2500/3500 is definitely not required.
I have a 2019 Big Horn Crew Cab with 6'4" bed & I`m looking for mounting brackets for my reese 16 K sliding hitch & rails , so you used a B & W , bracket mounting kit ? Could tell me model # & where you got it , thanks , attached is a pic of my 2016 outdoorsman that i had before the Big Horn , never had any problems IMG_20190428_095442371_HDR.jpg
 
I have a 2019 Big Horn Crew Cab with 6'4" bed & I`m looking for mounting brackets for my reese 16 K sliding hitch & rails , so you used a B & W , bracket mounting kit ? Could tell me model # & where you got it , thanks , attached is a pic of my 2016 outdoorsman that i had before the Big Horn , never had any problems View attachment 47386
BWRVK2604 that's what I used in my ram 1500 works great very clean install bought it from etrailer paid $247.26 delivered to north dakota
 
I have a 2019 Big Horn Crew Cab with 6'4" bed & I`m looking for mounting brackets for my reese 16 K sliding hitch & rails , so you used a B & W , bracket mounting kit ? Could tell me model # & where you got it , thanks , attached is a pic of my 2016 outdoorsman that i had before the Big Horn , never had any problems View attachment 47386
I did not use my fifth wheel slider , because at the time I bought my ram, nobody made rails for the new body style 5th gen. Ram. I had a B&W turnover ball goose neck under bed hitch installed
Item # BWGNRK1319. I then purchased an Andersen Ultimate Part# 3220-TBX . I have since seen bed rail kits for the 5th gen. Ram, but cannot remember where, so I know they are available.
 
The questions I would ask would be:
What does his trailer actually weigh, loaded for the trip?
What does he plan on having in the truck over the weight of the driver (max 200#)?
What does his hitch and safety chains weigh?
What is his rear axle maximum?
What is his payload (actual yellow sticker on door jamb) maximum?
What load range/max load capacity tires does he have on the truck?

Since there's none of that information given, everyone is guessing.

Maybe he has an ultralight 5th wheel with only 1 slide, and perhaps he doesn't take any fresh water with him (gets it at the campsite), nor does he have 2 big 40# tanks full of propane.
Perhaps it's just him and the petite missus, with next to no other gear.
Big difference from 3 slide unit and the family of 4 or 5 loaded for bear with full freshwater tanks and food for a week...

His 5'er could gvwr anywhere from 9500 - 15K.. But even taking an empty 5'er at 9500# with nothing in the truck and no passenger, that's over the (stated) trucks payload. Air bags level but don't add payload. Good hitches transfer a portion of the weight however everyone carries stuff with them so that evens out, or worse.

Can it be towed? Yes
Can it be stopped (on level dry roads), Yes,
How will the combo react to high winds, passing semi's or emergency lane maneuvers? Anyone's guess...
Do people do it all the time? Yes
Is it illegal? Not really, US LEO's don't enforce weight limits and some experts will say that GCVWR's are only "suggestions", not hard and fast maximums. (PS - Insurance companies don't deny claims due to overweight truck/railer combinations, that's called operator "negligence" and that's what the liability portion of your policy is designed for. If there's no negligence on your part, then there's no payout to the other party. They also don't deny collision losses due to overweight or unsafe conditions (they'd love to but cannot).
Do most owners prefer a nice riding 1500? Yes
Do owners want the harsher ride when empty leaf springed 250/2500 or 350/3500? No

It's just the choices and gambles that people make. Now if you want to be more "prudent" then maybe follow established guidelines:
This from etrailer.com:
What Percent of a 5th Wheel Trailer King Pin Should be the Tongue Weight
Question:
I am purchasing a new 5th wheel trailer and concerned about the king pin weight. For every pound I put in the cargo bay located between the trailers axles and the king pin, what percent should of that pound would be added to the king pin?
asked by: James F
Expert Reply:
A basic rule to go by is that the tongue weight of a 5th wheel trailer is about 20 percent of the gross trailer weight. (Some sites now say 25%)
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From another site (general article): https://camperreport.com/average-weight-of-a-fifth-wheel-trailer-with-18-examples/
Mid-Profile Fifth Wheels
Weights of mid-profile fifth wheels will be 10,000 to 14,000 pounds with a length of 33’ to 41’. In choosing a mid-profile over a lightweight, the decision can be a matter of lifestyle needs, upgrades and floor plan. These fifth wheels may have more slides, Corian (hard surface) countertops, residential-sized refrigerators, upgraded furniture, crown molding, computer work stations, generous bunk rooms, king-sized bed, larger black/gray/fresh water tanks which, in the end, will add to a longer length and more weight than their lightweight cousins.
Examples:
  • Keystone Montana 3720RL – 13,329 lbs., 39.7 ft.
  • Heartland Pioneer – 11,010 lbs., 39.8 ft.
  • Grand Design Reflection 337RLS – 10,570 lbs., 35.6 ft.
*************************************
YMMV, these discussions (to put it mildly) will never cease.
I have a mid profile chaparral dry 8021lbs gvwr 9995lbs 32 ft like you say there are 5th wheels that are not super heavy.
 

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