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I hope this works! I also hope you get the same results I did. I took mine apart over a year ago, and cleaned it like I had a crippling case of OCD, and it has not dropped into neutral since. So it has been good for over a year now.

Ah well, then yeah, Grape Ape and Jl13 have sent you in the right direction. Let us know what happens with it.

Oh yeah, ouchy hot. Years ago, I was changing plugs on a hot engine, (engine was off), and accidentally laid my palm on a still hot header tube, and it made one huge burn, medium rare I'd say.

It kinda look like the tires were changed? Are both rims 18"? Went from low profile to higher profile? Is it also possible that the newer tires fill more of the wheel wells and it looks lower?

I didn't forget! Corrected to .35. Hot enough to cook food I'd say.

Finding clunks can be very frustrating. I also replaced my sway bar mount bushings with polyurethane,, and silicon grease, and the noise was still there. I bought my truck used, it was a rental so I figured why not replace suspension parts as it was probably abused. Reminds me of an old joke...

I second the tire squealing.

My brain keeps going back to your tire size, I think I remember something about the tire size being a bit off?

I had a clunk that disappeared when I disconnected my factory front swaybar end links. Replaced them with Maxxlink endlinks. And now it clunks again. When I get a minute I'll disconnect these and see what happens. So for your spherical end links, looks like you might have a machining/welding...

For those of us that have had CANBUS issues, (and sometimes can't get a resolution). Remember the days when a taillight went out and the vehicle didn't shut down and act like it was possessed by evil spirits, and you just put a new bulb in for a couple bucks, sometimes in the amount of time it...

For the clunk in the steering did it go away? Here's what I can remember, other members here will probably mention what I forget: Check the bolts that hold the EPS on. Check the tie rods and the ends for play or being loose. Check the joints in the steering shaft for play. The bearings in the...

I'll bet that Duster is real fun to drive and work on. Makes me kinda miss my long gone 72' Monte Carlo, ran 12's in the quarter and could also take it on road trips, and fix it easily. If you can find a decent diagnostic shop, that methodically hunts for the problem, you'll be ahead of me, I...

I have a 6' Trail FX Bed liner and tailgate protector you can have for free. It also includes a custom wood bed divider. You'd just have to figure out how to get it to NH from CA. https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/drop-in-fx-trail-bed-liner-for-64-length-bed-used.47704/#post-742518

Yes exactly on the waveforms = CAN high/low signal. Watching techs on youtube troubleshoot these issues with the high low signal has been really eye opening. In fact here is one example, while not a RAM, still a Chrysler product 😜: I am far from really educated/proficient on this stuff, just...

I just filled in that gap with urethane body seam sealer on mine, so far no leaks from 2 days of real heavy rain. But let's see if it lasts...

Instrument clusters can go bad, their connectors can also be compromised and that can make the CAN very very angry. One thing that happens is folks have their windshields tinted, and the installation can allow water into the dash which can short various things and also make the CAN angry. Does...

So I tried a couple fixes for my rear window leak and this one seems to be the fix. Will have to see how it holds up after a couple years though.

What work did the dealership do to it this time? We're very curious. Did they check the RF hub? Not that I want it to be your RF hub, but I'm suspicious...

Me too!

Sounds like you checked a lot of things that can go wrong with these trucks. All those connectors you pulled apart and greased should save you some CAN headaches down the road. How does the throttle body look? Clean, dirty, gunked up?