Bilstein 5100

[Kevin O'Leary]

Are the rear shocks worth it? Anyone?

 

[Sugar]

Are the rear shocks worth it? Anyone?

Posts before this indicate a better ride and better rebound control. For the $200, I plan on upgrading this also.

 

[Eltaco]

Posts before this indicate a better ride and better rebound control. For the $200, I plan on upgrading this also.

I put the rears on definitely think they rebound faster on bumpy roads, and perform better at speed, but overall the setup is definitely stiffer on pavement. I didn’t drive the truck before putting the rears on, so can’t comments on the setup with front only.

 

[Eltaco]

Just as a follow-up, I set my new 5100s at #5 position on my ORP crew cab. Now that all is settled, I appear to be dead even front to back of measuring to the wheel wells. That said, when I put a level on my running boards, the truck is clearly sitting nose high. I also put the level on the frame and see the same. I think a #4 clip position would actually “level” the truck.

Also, I’m going to post this info to hopefully save some of you the $100 I spent on alignment after install. I thought it was odd the shop didn’t provide me a pre-measurement on my alignment sheet. I had marked all of my alignment cams prior to installing the 5100s, and you can see clearly they adjusted the cams only very slightly (same on both sides) to put be in the center of the spec range. My guess is the truck would have been fine without this, but you can probably safely cheat yours similarly if you know you’re well aligned prior to install.

Pic below is front of truck looking back, on the driver side. Notice my pre-install marks and the $100 nudge from alignment.

Full disclaimer, I am not an alignment technician nor do my results promise the same for your truck. This was my experience and your results may vary

Please forgive my stupidity... my garage floor has the same slope. The truck measures level when measuring to the fender flares, and the frame is level to level ground. This is #5 setting on ORP.

 

[KNGSNK11]

Just as a follow-up, I set my new 5100s at #5 position on my ORP crew cab. Now that all is settled, I appear to be dead even front to back of measuring to the wheel wells. That said, when I put a level on my running boards, the truck is clearly sitting nose high. I also put the level on the frame and see the same. I think a #4 clip position would actually “level” the truck.

Also, I’m going to post this info to hopefully save some of you the $100 I spent on alignment after install. I thought it was odd the shop didn’t provide me a pre-measurement on my alignment sheet. I had marked all of my alignment cams prior to installing the 5100s, and you can see clearly they adjusted the cams only very slightly (same on both sides) to put be in the center of the spec range. My guess is the truck would have been fine without this, but you can probably safely cheat yours similarly if you know you’re well aligned prior to install.

Pic below is front of truck looking back, on the driver side. Notice my pre-install marks and the $100 nudge from alignment.

Full disclaimer, I am not an alignment technician nor do my results promise the same for your truck. This was my experience and your results may vary

Post up a pic of your rig, would like to see what it looks like at #5

 

[Eltaco]

Post up a pic of your rig, would like to see what it looks like at #5

 

[James8563]

How many times do we have to say the 5100’s work on the rebel??

Lol I know they can work and fit ,but those 5100s arnt tuned to the rebel springs , how much it changes the ride , who knows but that’s why Bilstein doesn’t recommend them , I want my truck tuned right so That’s why I’ve decided to wait for later suspension fitted for the rebel.

 

[KNGSNK11]

Thanks, man that does look ever so slightly nose high. I wonder if you gave it some time to settle in if that will change the rake?

 

[Eltaco]

Lol I know they can work and fit ,but those 5100s arnt tuned to the rebel springs , how much it changes the ride , who knows but that’s why Bilstein doesn’t recommend them , I want my truck tuned right so That’s why I’ve decided to wait for later suspension fitted for the rebel.

The Rebel and ORP springs are the same, suspension geometry is the same, and overall vehicle weight are within pounds of each other. I get what you’re saying, that you’d like to have the perfectly tuned setup, but there’s truthfully no reason to believe Bilstein will ever create this. The suspension characteristics are identical to other ORP Rams. There wouldn’t be anything to alter.

 

[Z mann R2]

The Rebel and ORP springs are the same, suspension geometry is the same, and overall vehicle weight are within pounds of each other. I get what you’re saying, that you’d like to have the perfectly tuned setup, but there’s truthfully no reason to believe Bilstein will ever create this. The suspension characteristics are identical to other ORP Rams. There wouldn’t be anything to alter.

This ^^^^^ the only difference is the Rebel already has Bilstein’s so the adapter is not needed.....there’s zero reason to wait.....I did everything myself, it’s all spot on perfect

 

[390hemi]

This ^^^^^ the only difference is the Rebel already has Bilstein’s so the adapter is not needed.....there’s zero reason to wait.....I did everything myself, it’s all spot on perfect

I 2nd this! Installation is straight forward.
No reason to wait.

 

[James8563]

The Rebel and ORP springs are the same, suspension geometry is the same, and overall vehicle weight are within pounds of each other. I get what you’re saying, that you’d like to have the perfectly tuned setup, but there’s truthfully no reason to believe Bilstein will ever create this. The suspension characteristics are identical to other ORP Rams. There wouldn’t be anything to alter.

So basically they would say ok fits rebel model one day lol and it be the same shock, that’s what I been thinking would happen also. Just don’t know why they didn’t say it’s compatible in the first place. Well I appreciate the info. Going to reconsider my decision for sure

 

[Sspearsau]

Well, I’m getting my fronts replaced with the 5100s tomorrow morning, and I wanted to make a quick effort to confirm what setting I wanted for a level. I’ve read this entire thread, multiple times, and I was pretty positive for a NON-ORP vehicle such as mine, #5 was the consensus for the appropriate setting.

I then proceeded to reading the install guide, and for a non-ORP such as mine, #5 gives a 1.7 inch lift, which I’ve heard leaves about a half inch of rake.

From there, I figured it made sense to measure the rear fender height compared to the front, and if my math is correct, the front, pre-5100 installation would be about 2.2 inches lower than the rear (1.7” lift plus 0.5” of rake). If this were the case everything would seemingly check out.

Low and behold, I’ve got a 3-inch difference on both sides as it stands today. Geometry has never been my thing, but I can’t imagine lifting the front will change the height of the rear, just the angle. So now I’m laying here in bed wonderingif I should be going with #6 or #7 to level out.

Pictures attached. Fronts are right around 36” from the ground. Rears are right about 39” from the ground. (Not sure how to flip images, so pretend they are the other way around)

Any thoughts on what I may be missing here? Please help!! Thanks everyone!

 

[James8563]

Well, I’m getting my fronts replaced with the 5100s tomorrow morning, and I wanted to make a quick effort to confirm what setting I wanted for a level. I’ve read this entire thread, multiple times, and I was pretty positive for a NON-ORP vehicle such as mine, #5 was the consensus for the appropriate setting.

I then proceeded to reading the install guide, and for a non-ORP such as mine, #5 gives a 1.7 inch lift, which I’ve heard leaves about a half inch of rake.

From there, I figured it made sense to measure the rear fender height compared to the front, and if my math is correct, the front, pre-5100 installation would be about 2.2 inches lower than the rear (1.7” lift plus 0.5” of rake). If this were the case everything would seemingly check out.

Low and behold, I’ve got a 3-inch difference on both sides as it stands today. Geometry has never been my thing, but I can’t imagine lifting the front will change the height of the rear, just the angle. So now I’m laying here in bed wonderingif I should be going with #6 or #7 to level out.

Pictures attached. Fronts are right around 36” from the ground. Rears are right about 39” from the ground. (Not sure how to flip images, so pretend they are the other way around)

Any thoughts on what I may be missing here? Please help!! Thanks everyone!

Non ORP I believe u are good to go to the max height setting

 

[James8563]

U pro

Well, I’m getting my fronts replaced with the 5100s tomorrow morning, and I wanted to make a quick effort to confirm what setting I wanted for a level. I’ve read this entire thread, multiple times, and I was pretty positive for a NON-ORP vehicle such as mine, #5 was the consensus for the appropriate setting.

I then proceeded to reading the install guide, and for a non-ORP such as mine, #5 gives a 1.7 inch lift, which I’ve heard leaves about a half inch of rake.

From there, I figured it made sense to measure the rear fender height compared to the front, and if my math is correct, the front, pre-5100 installation would be about 2.2 inches lower than the rear (1.7” lift plus 0.5” of rake). If this were the case everything would seemingly check out.

Low and behold, I’ve got a 3-inch difference on both sides as it stands today. Geometry has never been my thing, but I can’t imagine lifting the front will change the height of the rear, just the angle. So now I’m laying here in bed wonderingif I should be going with #6 or #7 to level out.

Pictures attached. Fronts are right around 36” from the ground. Rears are right about 39” from the ground. (Not sure how to flip images, so pretend they are the other way around)

Any thoughts on what I may be missing here? Please help!! Thanks everyone!

you probably couldn’t go wrong with the 6th setting Either tho

 

[Sspearsau]

My biggest fear is to come out of there nose high, which has me a little concerned. At the same time, I don't want to lift it to setting #5 (1.7-inches) and still be 1.3 inches from level.

Is the math literally, how much difference is there between the front and the back height, look at the Bilstein chart below, and then pick which setting based on lift height closes the gap to where you want it? If so, it would seem that #7 would still leave me with 0.4 inches of rake, which would be fine.

Has anyone on here gone to #7 and been short of level?

 

[James8563]

My biggest fear is to come out of there nose high, which has me a little concerned. At the same time, I don't want to lift it to setting #5 (1.7-inches) and still be 1.3 inches from level.

Is the math literally, how much difference is there between the front and the back height, look at the Bilstein chart below, and then pick which setting based on lift height closes the gap to where you want it? If so, it would seem that #7 would still leave me with 0.4 inches of rake, which would be fine.

Has anyone on here gone to #7 and been short of level?

View attachment 52621

I would just go with the 6th setting and see how it looks i don’t think u will be nose high and it all be taller than the 5 for sure. I’m getting the ready lift with UCA’s and 2inch top spacer in today for my rebel I’m going to do measurements before and after, Ive decided I’m going to just wait for the new 6112s or for Fox to put out the 2.5’s in the future. For now my Rhino lining is going on today, I i put on the Mopar rear wheel liners yesterday it’s a way better look and my Go Rhino RB20 steps are on the way also .

 

[Eltaco]

I would just go with the 6th setting and see how it looks i don’t think u will be nose high and it all be taller than the 5 for sure. I’m getting the ready lift with UCA’s and 2inch top spacer in today for my rebel I’m going to do measurements before and after, Ive decided I’m going to just wait for the new 6112s or for Fox to put out the 2.5’s in the future. For now my Rhino lining is going on today, I i put on the Mopar rear wheel liners yesterday it’s a way better look and my Go Rhino RB20 steps are on the way also .

Nice! I have run the 6112s before and definitely appreciate them over the 5100s, but they’re certainly a lot more costly.

I’m also confused why Fox doesn’t have a good option for us here, especially since they supply for the Mopar kit. I’m again quite surprised that’s a $1000 set of shocks that don’t even come as coil overs or resis.

I put my RB20s on a week or two ago. Looking forward to wheel spacers to fill it out since they stick out so far, but otherwise liking the steps quite a bit! They’re quite a lot more useful than the steps I had on my previous truck.

 

[James8563]

Nice! I have run the 6112s before and definitely appreciate them over the 5100s, but they’re certainly a lot more costly.

I’m also confused why Fox doesn’t have a good option for us here, especially since they supply for the Mopar kit. I’m again quite surprised that’s a $1000 set of shocks that don’t even come as coil overs or resis.

I put my RB20s on a week or two ago. Looking forward to wheel spacers to fill it out since they stick out so far, but otherwise liking the steps quite a bit! They’re quite a lot more useful than the steps I had on my previous truck.

Looking sharp! The goal is to have this truck compete with a raptor in the end This whole corona **** messed up a lot of production tho, fox king Bilstein they will all get it going at some point for their coilovers

 

[James8563]

Looking sharp! The goal is to have this truck compete with a raptor in the end This whole corona **** messed up a lot of production tho, fox king Bilstein they will all get it going at some point for their coilovers

I thought about getting the icon coilovers but na I’m leaning towards fox . That mopar kit is hyped, 1,200 and can even get you legit UCAS