Yours is the 3.6L eTorque, right?They are replacing my MGU because of the low voltages. it is started to cause issues with all the other systems in the truck. 12.6 voltage is too low for the electronics to work in these new truck.
Yes but the E torque system does not really differ between motors. They are different MGU due to engine design but other then that they are them same. Same 48V battery, Same wiring. a vehicle needs a certain amount of constant electricity to keep all the electronics happy. what is happening with mine is the electronics are starving for electricity which makes them fault out or do crazy things like the hood latch faulting out causing my radio to glitch out and then my truck not wanting to unlock or lock. From the research i have done it seems the 48 v battery is what feeds the starter battery but after it starts the starter battery takes the load of all the electronics on it and the 48v is just used to keep the starter battery charged and to start the truck during the start/stop also to allow the smother shifting. now the Etorque ECM tells the 48V battery to send a constant charge to the starter battery to make sure all the electronics have enough volts to run. i personally think that what people are letting slide with the low voltage will eventually will cost them big outside of warranty and thats why i am pushing the issue with Ram and getting engineers involved because there system was no ready. The dealers are not ready nor are the tech ready to deal with the issues that this particular truck is handing out. i actually know more about the system then the service advisor and the tech that is working on the truckYours is the 3.6L eTorque, right?
Care t tell me how you managed to get them to even look into this? I can't seem to get as much as a legitimate scan without having a check engine light or code come up.Yes but the E torque system does not really differ between motors. They are different MGU due to engine design but other then that they are them same. Same 48V battery, Same wiring. a vehicle needs a certain amount of constant electricity to keep all the electronics happy. what is happening with mine is the electronics are starving for electricity which makes them fault out or do crazy things like the hood latch faulting out causing my radio to glitch out and then my truck not wanting to unlock or lock. From the research i have done it seems the 48 v battery is what feeds the starter battery but after it starts the starter battery takes the load of all the electronics on it and the 48v is just used to keep the starter battery charged and to start the truck during the start/stop also to allow the smother shifting. now the Etorque ECM tells the 48V battery to send a constant charge to the starter battery to make sure all the electronics have enough volts to run. i personally think that what people are letting slide with the low voltage will eventually will cost them big outside of warranty and thats why i am pushing the issue with Ram and getting engineers involved because there system was no ready. The dealers are not ready nor are the tech ready to deal with the issues that this particular truck is handing out. i actually know more about the system then the service advisor and the tech that is working on the truck
i was pretty persistent that they need to look into it. it took going back to the dealer 4 times. the last time i was there i gave them facts that they could not argue with and it was the gold tech or Engineer that came out after the second stars ticket that told ram that he cant figure out whats going on but he believed it to be the MGU. It does help that it was the 4th time it was back at the dealership for the same issue too. I told dealer that they fix it this time or its getting lemon lawed. But the starter battery should be charging at 13.7 to 14.4 and shut off voltage should be 12-12.4 for all your electronics to work properly. Ram knows there is a huge problem with the way they designed the charging system from the 48 volt battery. That is why they are trying to fix it with ECM updates instead of actually replacing parts. i got offered 7k over what i paid for it so i might just trade it in when they are done with it and go back to a 2500 cummins. i atleast know how to work on that.Care t tell me how you managed to get them to even look into this? I can't seem to get as much as a legitimate scan without having a check engine light or code come up.
I’ve purchased a multimeter for this sole purpose of monitoring the actual voltage. Ive had a reading as low as 12.3v taken in the morning before running the truck.My Etorque seems to work just fine. On and off voltage is 12.7. I seen it a 13.5 running and the off 12.4 but right now driving it 12.7v. I wonder what a voltmeter would show.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve purchased a multimeter for this sole purpose of monitoring the actual voltage. Ive had a reading as low as 12.3v taken in the morning before running the truck.
I’ve also purchased a Battery Tender and use that because my truck could go several days without being run.
Ive seen the voltage jump to over 14 after being on the charger. It’s seemed to normalize now, I don’t see as many wild voltage fluctuations anymore. Still upgrading my battery through.
After charging I use the multimeter and it registers over 14. But after starting the truck, it settles to 13.8-13.9. Driving it will range anywhere from 13.5-13.9.So after you charge the battery. Now trucks reading 14v. Running And has been since?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You could always try a new quality battery and seeI’ve had a difficult electrical issue and I’m wondering if it could be battery related. Truck is a 2020 Ram 1500 with the 3.6L eTorque. 5,000 miles.
Occasionally the start/stop system will become unavailable and display the yellow alert on the dash. The truck will start to run rough and shake, feels like a misfire. If I park the truck and stop the engine, wait and then drive again, it’s hit or miss if I can replicate the problem.
Took it to the dealer a few months ago and they tried everything to fix. Eventually said they found a wire bundle that had a ground short in it. Truck seemed ok until this last week when the problem started again. This time the dealer couldn’t replicate the problem and I left with “no fault found”.
When driving the truck the battery meter always says between 13.4-13.8V. Never gets to 14. So I assume it’s charging but wondering if maybe a faulty, old or low capacity battery is somehow causing trouble with the stop/start system?
At this point I’m struggling to find any possible solution. I bought the truck to tow my boat, but I just don’t have any confidence in the vehicle right now. The last thing I need is to have the engine start misfiring and bog down on the highway when I’m towing in the middle of nowhere. It’s a logistical and a safety issue.
Anyone have any thoughts?
You could always try a new quality battery and see
Can you explain your thoughts as to why the original starting battery might be causing the problem? I’m happy to replace with a quality AGM just want to better understand what’s causing the issue with the start / stop system.The main starting battery is most likely the issue. It may hold up under a load test but the intelligent battery sensor might detect its less than optimal. Been down this road with my Rebel and Jeep. You can spend more but I have gone with Autozone and ORilley AGM’s with good results.
The health of the main battery does affect the availability of the start/stop system if the IBS (attached to the main battery negative cable) senses it’s down on power or failing. Battery life is tough to predict – it depends on the age of the battery, the climate and how often you drive the vehicle. These trucks tax the batteries while sitting maintaining computers, settings, security etc. My 2019 Rebels (purchased 10/2018) OEM battery failed at 18 months and the first indication was start/stop unavailable light. Not an ET expert I’m just passing on what I’ve learned about my FCA vehicles out of necessity because as Pharise stated dealership techs are not up to speed and my purchasing dealer is flat out unhelpful in the service area and I’ve bought two Rams and one Jeep from them.The starting battery has nothing to do with the etorque system when your truck is running. it there to first start the truck and run some accessories after your truck starts. After that the 48v battery and MGU takes over the start and stop. I am having the same issue with my truck. Ram is not trying to figure out how to fix these issues with there system they are just throwing parts at it. Can anyone tell me why or if there PCM send power to ground on there trucks?
Wow. Didn’t know the battery was that mainstream of concern. Well by that standard I should be ok
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hard to say it’s an individual decision, your automotive maintenance skill level and how and where you use your Ram. Knowing what I know now I probably will consider replacing at 2 years or start of a 3rd summer. If you plan to travel much or your wife drove it a lot that could make right away justifiable??? Mine lasted 18 months in Las Vegas which is considered a severe duty area. It was under warranty still but the dealership wanted me to have it towed in to them before Mopar would decide to replace it or not. At that point my inclination was to do it myself. So far so good about 15 months later. In my 43 years of driving/owning vehicles Ive only once replaced a battery that had zero apparent issues and that was for my sons Silverado that he took to college 900 miles away. If you do replace it yourself there are 2 things that you will hear you need to do. Apply a battery tender or other power source to the truck while the battery is disconnected to maintain electronics. Second with a scanner / programmer register (tell the truck it has a new battery). The first one wasn’t an option for me as the OEM was completely dead shorted already so I lost radio settings etc. anyway. I planned to purchase or borrow an OBD tool to complete the registration but never did. This truck can frustrate me for sure and Vroom offered me 49k for it last month but I keep it because I don’t want to deal with getting something else and I really do like it.Would it be a good recommendation to change out the battery right away with a better battery?