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What Voltage Should Etorque Be at?

Ramjack

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There is so much mis-information on eTorque and I'm just trying to get an accurate understanding of what it actually does. As I understand it, eTorque does nothing to actually propel the vehicle forward beyond a 1/2 turn of the wheels. But I suppose a faulty eTorque system (like @Inziny had) could hamper acceleration.

I think the best source is this YouTube video with the Ram engineer in a ride-along:
 

Phairse

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i just started having issues with this after i got a code last week and all the dealer did was update both computers and call it good. Now everytime i remote start my radio glitches on and off and my battery voltages show to be 10 volts. I am also losing coolant some where. I put a gallon in it 2 weeks ago and it is already back to low. i noticed that the MGU was hooked up to the coolant lines. i also noticed in traffic how bogged down the motor feels when you are doing 70 and have to slow down and start going in stop and go traffic.
 

Th8785

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i just started having issues with this after i got a code last week and all the dealer did was update both computers and call it good. Now everytime i remote start my radio glitches on and off and my battery voltages show to be 10 volts. I am also losing coolant some where. I put a gallon in it 2 weeks ago and it is already back to low. i noticed that the MGU was hooked up to the coolant lines. i also noticed in traffic how bogged down the motor feels when you are doing 70 and have to slow down and start going in stop and go traffic.
10 volts would likely explain the radio glitching off, I would imagine that's around the cutoff voltage for it. How many miles are on your truck? Noticed any leaks on the coolant? Has to be going somewhere
 

cervelo15

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I just ordered a battery tender….not only because I’m paranoid about the voltage fluctuations, but now working from home, I don’t drive much. If anything, it’s shorter trips maybe 1-2 times per week. I feel if I put it on the tender, it will keep the battery fresh and charged. Same concept as a show car that gets driven a couple times a year, I think those guys put it on a battery tender to keep the battery conditioned and fresh.
 

Ramgoose

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i just started having issues with this after i got a code last week and all the dealer did was update both computers and call it good. Now everytime i remote start my radio glitches on and off and my battery voltages show to be 10 volts. I am also losing coolant some where. I put a gallon in it 2 weeks ago and it is already back to low. i noticed that the MGU was hooked up to the coolant lines. i also noticed in traffic how bogged down the motor feels when you are doing 70 and have to slow down and start going in stop and go traffic.
Do you have a 3.6 or 5.7? The 5.7 MGU is air cooled only. You may be on to something with electrical issues and coolant loss if you have the Pentastar.
 

Radunckel

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Do you think the blackvue dash cam I installed last night would have anything to do with the voltage being low? I mean, parking mode and all.

I just went on a test drive...I disconnected the camera, turned on truck and voltage was right at 14.0 for the most of the 20 minute drive. I then stopped for a minute to check some texts, left the truck running on idle for like 90 seconds and noticed that while idling the voltage dropped to 13.0. It then stayed there for the remainder of the ride home.

Once I pulled into garage, i turned the truck off and turned back on immediately. When I did that, I noticed the starting voltage was around 12.4 and then slowly climbed to 14.0 within 30 seconds.

Is all of this normal or does something seem off?
Mine does the exact same thing. Doesn't seem right to me.
 

cervelo15

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So I had a weird thing happen: after putting it on the battery tender overnight, now when I start it it goes all the way up to 13.7-13.8 volts a few seconds after starting the truck. Then as soon as it hits 13.8 volts, it drops abruptly down to 13 volts, maybe 12.8-12.9 volts. I think I’m creating my own paranoia and I might just change my display out to not have the voltmeter there. It’s driving me crazy. Although, I may invest in a new aftermarket battery before our trip to NC in August for peace of mind.
 

Th8785

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So I had a weird thing happen: after putting it on the battery tender overnight, now when I start it it goes all the way up to 13.7-13.8 volts a few seconds after starting the truck. Then as soon as it hits 13.8 volts, it drops abruptly down to 13 volts, maybe 12.8-12.9 volts. I think I’m creating my own paranoia and I might just change my display out to not have the voltmeter there. It’s driving me crazy. Although, I may invest in a new aftermarket battery before our trip to NC in August for peace of mind.
I just swapped a Northstar group 31 into mine. Stayed around 13.6 for a bit then right back to the same numbers. I'm not happy with the voltage but as long as it increases under load as it should I guess all is well. I'm about to wire up my aftermarket stereo once these 100° days take a break. Which will have another volt meter installed directly to the amp so maybe that will ease my mind some. Not exactly sure where the truck takes the reading at for batt voltage
 

Phairse

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10 volts would likely explain the radio glitching off, I would imagine that's around the cutoff voltage for it. How many miles are on your truck? Noticed any leaks on the coolant? Has to be going somewhere

Do you have a 3.6 or 5.7? The 5.7 MGU is air cooled only. You may be on to something with electrical issues and coolant loss if you have the Pentastar.
i have the 3.6 and it is liquid cooled. there is no coolant leak the dealer had the truck for 2 weeks just testing the coolant issue. they now have it back after FCA telling them to put dye in it then give it back to me and put miles on it since they dident see an issue. I drove it 90 miles and it burnt 14 oz or so of coolant and the service start/stop system came on, There is a big issue with the dealers techs not knowing what they are looking for or there trouble shooting skill for these trucks
 

Phairse

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I believe its the MGU due to all my issues surrounding what it is suppose to do. i cant think of a time i have seen it rev the motor up for better shifting. then sometime while driving it feels like there was a huge drag on the motor itself and has to shift down while going on a flat highway. at idle i also find sometime where it wants to drop below 500 rpms and this last weekend it was surging at idle like something was turning on and off like an ac compressor when you have low pressure
 

cervelo15

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I just swapped a Northstar group 31 into mine. Stayed around 13.6 for a bit then right back to the same numbers. I'm not happy with the voltage but as long as it increases under load as it should I guess all is well. I'm about to wire up my aftermarket stereo once these 100° days take a break. Which will have another volt meter installed directly to the amp so maybe that will ease my mind some. Not exactly sure where the truck takes the reading at for batt voltage
I drove mine yesterday and it was back to the 'normal' of running between 13.6-13.8 volts under load. I had the truck detailed last week to do PPF/ceramic coating and the day I picked it up it was driving a little weird. I also noticed the engine bay looked like it was washed, so I have no idea if they got water into some sensitive parts of the engine. Or maybe disconnected the negative cable to offset having the lights go on if the doors were open for an extended period of time.

I'm probably going to look to upgrade the battery for peace of mind and 'cause it would be part of my growing list of upgrades.
 

redneck

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I believe its the MGU due to all my issues surrounding what it is suppose to do. i cant think of a time i have seen it rev the motor up for better shifting. then sometime while driving it feels like there was a huge drag on the motor itself and has to shift down while going on a flat highway. at idle i also find sometime where it wants to drop below 500 rpms and this last weekend it was surging at idle like something was turning on and off like an ac compressor when you have low pressure
I have the 5.7 non etorque and I also have the surging at an idle sometimes it'll go from 600 to 900 RPM back and forth until you put it into neutral and rev it up then it goes away
 

Th8785

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I drove mine yesterday and it was back to the 'normal' of running between 13.6-13.8 volts under load. I had the truck detailed last week to do PPF/ceramic coating and the day I picked it up it was driving a little weird. I also noticed the engine bay looked like it was washed, so I have no idea if they got water into some sensitive parts of the engine. Or maybe disconnected the negative cable to offset having the lights go on if the doors were open for an extended period of time.

I'm probably going to look to upgrade the battery for peace of mind and 'cause it would be part of my growing list of upgrades.
Since
I drove mine yesterday and it was back to the 'normal' of running between 13.6-13.8 volts under load. I had the truck detailed last week to do PPF/ceramic coating and the day I picked it up it was driving a little weird. I also noticed the engine bay looked like it was washed, so I have no idea if they got water into some sensitive parts of the engine. Or maybe disconnected the negative cable to offset having the lights go on if the doors were open for an extended period of time.

I'm probably going to look to upgrade the battery for peace of mind and 'cause it would be part of my growing list of upgrades.
Even with my new battery mine still randomly drops to battery voltage. Only difference I see is that the Northstar floats closer to 13.0 and takes considerably longer to drop to 12.6 than the stock batt did. I'm sure it's set like a pcm controlled alt so only charges when it's told to. Would love to find a work around to force charging at a set voltage tho. As long as when I add an extra load it compensates, its fine. Hopefully you have better luck with maintaining your voltage than I have been
 

Ramjack

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I'm on a 1,000-mile round trip vacation now. For the first 10 minutes or so after I started the truck, voltage was 13.9v. After that, it was 12.6v for the remainder of the trip. Stopped for the night and same thing: starts out at 13.9v then back to 12.6v after a few minutes. Sure seems low but I've had no indication of problems. I hope this is normal for eTorque.
 
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KWKSLVR

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I have a feeling that this is normal behavior for the system. I understand that the 12v battery is running the vehicle accessories but I would image that the etorque system is prioritizing putting charge on the 48v system to keep it topped off and then putting the excess back onto the 12v battery as it's available/needed. The 48v battery is suppose to supply charge to the 12v system if needed to crank the vehicle but unlike a traditional system where you've got an alternator keeping the battery topped off etorque seems to prioritize differently? Just a guess. But if vehicles are cranking right up at these lower voltages without issue then it seems more like design than luck. Someone has to know a good local mechanic that understands what's going on.
 

Th8785

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I have a feeling that this is normal behavior for the system. I understand that the 12v battery is running the vehicle accessories but I would image that the etorque system is prioritizing putting charge on the 48v system to keep it topped off and then putting the excess back onto the 12v battery as it's available/needed. The 48v battery is suppose to supply charge to the 12v system if needed to crank the vehicle but unlike a traditional system where you've got an alternator keeping the battery topped off etorque seems to prioritize differently? Just a guess. But if vehicles are cranking right up at these lower voltages without issue then it seems more like design than luck. Someone has to know a good local mechanic that understands what's going on.
The techs I talked to st the dealership couldn't explain it to me, or themselves for that matter.
 

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