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What Voltage Should Etorque Be at?

Same here....I have the digital voltmeter as one of my gauges in the lower right corner and noticed a couple times it's dipped. Scared the crap out of me, especially since this is my very first experience with a vehicle that has this type of system. Pulling up the actual digital readout on the screen it was 12.6-12.8 and stayed like that a couple times while driving at highway speed.

I know when I wait in the school pickup line for my daughter, I turn my truck off and on a couple times while in line (because I could be waiting there 45mins + sometimes and I'm not letting it idle for that entire time). That wouldn't have anything to do with it maybe?

Either way, it's been fluctuating between 13.8-14.1 lately.
The only anomaly here is the low voltage you observed on the highway. I wouldn't expect that.

Otherwise, it sounds to me like it's charging properly. If you're doing a lot of idling, the system isn't going to charge as well because (1) it's spinning slowly, and (2) it'll get very warm. If you shut the truck off, it might cool down the engine and BSG a bit, but you're likely to be working the already-partially-discharged batteries harder (especially if you continue to listen to the radio and/or run other accessories).
 
The only anomaly here is the low voltage you observed on the highway. I wouldn't expect that.

Otherwise, it sounds to me like it's charging properly. If you're doing a lot of idling, the system isn't going to charge as well because (1) it's spinning slowly, and (2) it'll get very warm. If you shut the truck off, it might cool down the engine and BSG a bit, but you're likely to be working the already-partially-discharged batteries harder (especially if you continue to listen to the radio and/or run other accessories).
Thanks for the response Speedy! Yep, the lower voltage fluctuations at highway speed have me a little concerned, even moreso after reading some of the dead battery posts on other threads. It's only happened maybe 2 times since I have had the truck.

I actually don't run the radio and other drains when I shut the truck off.

I think a mod way later on down the road may be a more durable battery for peace of mind. But for now, I'm just gonna try and enjoy the truck and keep an eye on it.
 
Here’s what my voltage was at today while picking up my daughter. This was what it was right before the start/stop kicked in:
4E31C67B-DC4A-4B3F-8787-8ED9F60B3484.jpeg
This was after start/stop kicked in at a stop light:
3DE8F481-F851-42AF-80C4-75318AE7F480.jpeg

Was a little hot in PA today, so while driving i heard the fan running because I had the thermostat set to 70. Interesting thing I learned is that start/stop won’t kick in during active cooling in the cab. This message was displayed in the EVIC when i cycled to the start/stop screen.

I don’t think I have ever seen this get over 14.1v. So when I heard some people posting they regularly see 14.1 plus volts, I started wondering if something was up with my system.
 
My truck has showed what I would call low voltage (around the mid 12’s) on and off since I took delivery of it. I have about 5,000 miles on it now and I’d say for about the last 1500 miles or so it’s been 13.8 and above. My last GM vehicle would have low voltage (12.3 to 13.0) every now and then too. I wasn’t too worried when the Ram would show lower voltage because it would increase at times. Seems to be better lately.
I don't think I've had a vehicle ever that legit charged under 14 volts....but modern tech I guess. I'm at 5400 miles now still random here
 
i know this thread is a bit old but have been having similar concerns for some time now. I took my truck back to the dealership twice now due to voltage concerns and just keep being told all is fine. My etorqure rarely sees over 13 volts. typically reads 12.8- 13.2ish. Bought the truck new at end of December and have NEVER seen over 14 volts. Note, im big into car audio so i keep a very close eye on voltage out of habit.
Mine is consistent with yours. Truck is 3 days old. I may test with a voltmeter.
 
Mine is consistent with yours. Truck is 3 days old. I may test with a voltmeter.
I have lol. Even ran my own gauge to compare while under load. Typically if test at the power stud on the alt but not reakly how this truck works. And haven't taken the time to pull back seat yet to test
 
I have lol. Even ran my own gauge to compare while under load. Typically if test at the power stud on the alt but not reakly how this truck works. And haven't taken the time to pull back seat yet to test
I checked with a voltmeter a couple of hours ago. With truck off, battery was 12.6V. I started the truck and let it get past the fast idle period: 13.9-13.95V. The gauge on the dash read 13.9V. But when I was driving this morning, the dash gauge read as low as 12.8V, I seem to recall. I would've had lights, radio, and AC running, but I still wouldn't expect it to drop that low. I will check with the voltmeter again in the morning after I get back from taking my kid to school, especially if the dash shows below 13V again.

FWIW, I did the same exact test procedure tonight on my 2018 4Runner and got almost identical readings, both before and after starting the vehicle.
 
I checked with a voltmeter a couple of hours ago. With truck off, battery was 12.6V. I started the truck and let it get past the fast idle period: 13.9-13.95V. The gauge on the dash read 13.9V. But when I was driving this morning, the dash gauge read as low as 12.8V, I seem to recall. I would've had lights, radio, and AC running, but I still wouldn't expect it to drop that low. I will check with the voltmeter again in the morning after I get back from taking my kid to school, especially if the dash shows below 13V again.

FWIW, I did the same exact test procedure tonight on my 2018 4Runner and got almost identical readings, both before and after starting the vehicle.
Ok, so I checked again this morning. When I started the truck, the gauge and voltmeter were up to 13.9V after maybe 10 seconds of running. Some time during my 30 mile roundtrip drive this morning, it dropped to 12.9. It was 12.9 when I got home, both on the gauge and on the voltmeter. I even turned on all lights, AC, radio, etc. and it stayed at 12.9V. Not sure what to think. Is this some "intelligent" alternator that doesn't push 14V unless it's needed? I have not noticed any problems.
 
I wouldn’t worry about it. In my experience If these charging system aren’t operating within acceptable parameters or a battery is weakened it will let you know pretty quick with CEL’s, chimes and possibly drop into limp mode. Enjoy that new baby!
 
I wouldn’t worry about it. In my experience If these charging system aren’t operating within acceptable parameters or a battery is weakened it will let you know pretty quick with CEL’s, chimes and possibly drop into limp mode. Enjoy that new baby!
Yep. Trying not to obsess so I can enjoy it.
 
I wouldn’t worry about it. In my experience If these charging system aren’t operating within acceptable parameters or a battery is weakened it will let you know pretty quick with CEL’s, chimes and possibly drop into limp mode. Enjoy that new baby!
my concern comes in with adding aftermarket equipment which has LARGE amp draws. I assume like a pcm controlled alt it will adjust to the extra demand, but glad to know its not only my truck that is acting this way. My stock batt seems to float around 12.5 which seems low to me. @Ramjack also remember the computer turn on when opening door oir key getting within range. i popped my hood and took keys to other end of house, then tested with dmm a few hours later.
 
I have a brand new 12V battery that is working perfectly and has been properly tested and I never see it above 14V when the engine is on.
 
I have a brand new 12V battery that is working perfectly and has been properly tested and I never see it above 14V when the engine is on.
When I first got the truck, it was regularly hitting 14.1v, but that's the highest it has ever been. Lately, it's been running 13.7-13.9, occasional dip to 13.5. But it's not doing the below 13v thing anymore from what i could see.

Normally, I really wouldn't care about this. In comparison, I had a 4th Gen Laramie that would have the voltmeter gauge needle point straight up between the L & H markings, every time. I'd charge cell phones, laptops and have all kinds of USB plugs running and it would never stray from that mark. But I've never owned this eTorque type of system before, so I'm not used to seeing the voltage all over the place.
 
I took mine in as soon as I started seeing 12.9-13 at 70 mph....no code no problem🤷
So finally got it back today (after almost 4 weeks) after they replaced the battery pack which didn’t resolve the issue. They had to order a new MGU which resolved the issue and improved acceleration.
 
So finally got it back today (after almost 4 weeks) after they replaced the battery pack which didn’t resolve the issue. They had to order a new MGU which resolved the issue and improved acceleration.
What is an MGU?
 
What is an MGU?
The “Motor Generator Unit” is another name for the BSG or “Belt-driven Starter / Generator”. It’s the eTorque power unit.

We’ve only seen a few “bad eggs” of those so far, but it sounds like this resolved @Inziny’s issue.
 
The “Motor Generator Unit” is another name for the BSG or “Belt-driven Starter / Generator”. It’s the eTorque power unit.

We’ve only seen a few “bad eggs” of those so far, but it sounds like this resolved @Inziny’s issue.
Thanks. I did a search of the forum before I asked: "No results found." Now I see that Google finds it.
 
Yes now voltage is 14.0, acceleration is improved…etc. one recommendation is get ram cares involved early on who will coordinate effectively w the dealer. Had a few problems prior where alerts were thrown, hard acceleration and low voltage but no error codes were thrown. Hopefully Ram will use this data and information to assist earlier in the process.
 
Yes now voltage is 14.0, acceleration is improved…etc. one recommendation is get ram cares involved early on who will coordinate effectively w the dealer. Had a few problems prior where alerts were thrown, hard acceleration and low voltage but no error codes were thrown. Hopefully Ram will use this data and information to assist earlier in the process.
I'm glad your issue is fixed but I don't understand why acceleration would be improved.
 
I'm glad your issue is fixed but I don't understand why acceleration would be improved.
I could be wrong but I'd be willing to bet improved acceleration is due to the battery being up to voltage and eTorque working properly. According to the eTorque materials online and in videos, eTorque helps smooth out the shifting of the tranny by working with the engine. See the video that's been circulating on this forum for a better explanation.


Smoothing shifts. Once the truck is rolling forward and accelerating, engine revs are reduced and matched to the next gear with the electric motor. Ram is actually getting some regeneration from each of those upshifts—a negligible amount, but it saves the transmission clutches that normally do the task. On deceleration, the motor actually blips the engine to help match revs and smooth downshifts. The electric motor and power systems can switch from full output to full regeneration in as little as 60 milliseconds, but the limitation is the belt system.
 

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