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What did you do to your Ram today???

thrillracing

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zignice

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That is a super nice setup. Are the boxes on the outside of the drawers only as waterproof as your tonneau cover or do they seal by themselves?


Hydro-Blue Laramie Lvl 2, Sport, Off-Road Group, Advanced Safety Group, Bed Utility Group, Pano, 3.92, E-Torque, Air-Suspension, Power Boards

The outside cubby holes are not waterproof so most people just store misc hardware, but my hard cover makes the entire bed weather proof.


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LamboTexas

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zignice

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That looks great! Very useful and practical!! I just ordered a Decked system today. All the naysayers that say- you lose too much of your bed space- that’s why we have flatbed trailers, cargo trailers, horse trailers, etc.

The gear you see is about all I’ve carried in mine since I bought the truck, so I figured I wouldn’t miss the space difference. There is still a good amount of space above with standard height drawers.


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Skater

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If you have been keeping up with my saga (probably not), I ordered my Ram Limited on February 29, 2020. I made a change while it was in D1 on May 29, 2020 to get the 33-gallon fuel tank. That put my build at the end of the line and honestly, I did not mind waiting through the COVID-19 shutdown of FCA. Those FCA line workers laboriously work shifts with which I would not wish to be tasked, so I was more than happy to have those folks stay safe at home with their families and not build my Ram until they felt safe on the line.

So, after almost six months of waiting, on Wednesday, what I did to my Ram was pick it up and drive it home.

On Friday, what I did to my Ram was install the OPT7 light bar under my multifunction tailgate thanks to the expert instruction, assistance, direction, and tutelage of RamVader. I also installed the Carven cat back exhaust that evening, but used the stock tips because the Carven tips extend out past the bumper too far for my liking. I know the Carven needs to break in a little, but it sounds amazing. Sort of quiet when driving easy, but deep and throaty, and aggressive when you put your foot into it. I also installed a BlendMount radar detector mount for my Escort Redline and hardwired it into the windshield camera; again, thanks to the folks in here in a thread entitled something like hardwire radar detectors.

Today, I got the windows tinted all the way around, except windshield. Heat shield on the windshield is a waste of money for me, so I opted not to get that done. I also installed the RamAir CAI and a small, but important mod, RAM valve stem covers.

Tomorrow, after 18 holes with my buddies at dawn as I have been doing for about 25 years, Husky mud flaps, LASFIT third brake light replacement bulbs, SprintBooster, and Hellwig sway bar go on!

IMG_2383 2.jpg IMG_2382 2.jpg IMG_2381.jpg OPT7.png IMG_2362.jpg IMG_2361.jpg
 

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Jako

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If you have been keeping up with my saga (probably not), I ordered my Ram Limited on February 29, 2020. I made a change while it was in D1 on May 29, 2020 to get the 33-gallon fuel tank. That put my build at the end of the line and honestly, I did not mind waiting through the COVID-19 shutdown of FCA. Those FCA line workers laboriously work shifts with which I would not wish to be tasked, so I was more than happy to have those folks stay safe at home with their families and not build my Ram until they felt safe on the line.

So, after almost six months of waiting, on Wednesday, what I did to my Ram was pick it up and drive it home.

On Friday, what I did to my Ram was install the OPT7 light bar under my multifunction tailgate thanks to the expert instruction, assistance, direction, and tutelage of RamVader. I also installed the Carven cat back exhaust that evening, but used the stock tips because the Carven tips extend out past the bumper too far for my liking. I know the Carven needs to break in a little, but it sounds amazing. Sort of quiet when driving easy, but deep and throaty, and aggressive when you put your foot into it. I also installed a BlendMount radar detector mount for my Escort Redline and hardwired it into the windshield camera; again, thanks to the folks in here in a thread entitled something like hardwire radar detectors.

Today, I got the windows tinted all the way around, except windshield. Heat shield on the windshield is a waste of money for me, so I opted not to get that done. I also installed the RamAir CAI and a small, but important mod, RAM valve stem covers.

Tomorrow, after 18 holes with my buddies at dawn as I have been doing for about 25 years, Husky mud flaps, LASFIT third brake light replacement bulbs, SprintBooster, and Hellwig sway bar go on!

View attachment 64881 View attachment 64882 View attachment 64883 View attachment 64884 View attachment 64885 View attachment 64886
Nice work
FYI if valve stems are aluminum:
 

Skater

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Nice work
FYI if valve stems are aluminum:
I had no idea that could be an issue. I have had what I believe to be aluminum valve stem caps on just about every vehicle I have owned for the past 10 years. Thanks for the insight. I will check to see if they are in fact aluminum, but I bet they are.
 

hratiu

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I recently bought a 2020 Ram Big Horn BTS. Want to make some upgrades. Thinking tri fold tonneau and bed liner. If I am going tonneau do I really even need a liner? Also what are the best covers? I live in Las Vegas.
 

4x4Rebel

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Bed liner is great if use the bed at all. I got the line-x and it's been great. I take my tonneau cover off and actually use the bed a bit so it has come in handy. Than again, maybe a bed mat would work for you. I think the line-x has UV protectant in it that should prevent fading there in Vegas. I also bought the Lomax cover and it's been the perfect combo for me.

I recently bought a 2020 Ram Big Horn BTS. Want to make some upgrades. Thinking tri fold tonneau and bed liner. If I am going tonneau do I really even need a liner? Also what are the best covers? I live in Las Vegas.
 

TNSmokee

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Got started on the PowerStep Light install yesterday with my son-in-law. He had a wire tester and I wanted to verify the wire from the bed light to connect to. RamVader said it was white but mine looked more of a brownish color. Anyway it was the same as RamVader's and I used a wire tap to connect to that wire.
PowerStep Wiring.jpg
The wire tap I had and used was probably the wrong one, too big. We had trouble getting a reading from the tester and couldn't get a continuity reading either. I ended up shaving some of the wire insulation off and striped my added power wire (blue wire). Once I did that everything tested hot. Now I'm committed I guess.
PowerStep Wiring-2.jpg
Tucked the wire tap back into the factory sheathing and taped it in place. Reconnected the plug and reattached it to it's mounting location.
PowerStep Wiring-3.jpg
This picture shows the harness and factory mounting location. The blue wire has a butt connector on it and this is where it will terminate at. The white wire is my ground. I have the curt trailer harness setup for my add-on reverse lights. This made it easier for me to ground and be able to use a butt connector.
PowerStep Lights-3.jpg
The lights are magnetic and are attached to this rail halfway between the doors. This is the front door. I looped the wire under the rail to the backside where I attached it.
PowerStep Wiring-4.jpg
Right now I'm using black gorilla tape. I put a base strip down and then covered the wire with another. I'm going to keep an eye on this and think about a better way.
PowerStep Wiring-5.jpg
Passenger side.
PowerStep Wiring-6.jpg
The two wires meet here and route behind the bar for the PowerStep. I used zip ties to attach to some factory wiring and followed that around the the rear of the felt covered box for our floor boxes.
PowerStep Wiring-7.jpg
PowerStep Wiring-8.jpg
The wires drop behind the floor box cubby in-line with this frame rail. This is my crossing point to the driver's side.
PowerStep Wiring-9.jpg
I don't have a fish tape so I had to use a wire hanger to guide the wires across. The hanger was perfect and you can see the wires dangling on the driver's side. This is my stopping point for the day though. It seems like it's 110 degrees in my garage. I'll pick back up on Tuesday.
 

Grape_Ape

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Not so much what I did to it but what I did for it and my other vehicles. Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic is on sale at advance auto for $10.49 per 5qt and $2.49 per 1qt. $160 later and I have 5 oil changes in the ram, 4 in my commuter, and 2 in my wife's car covered lol.
 

Ellisstrong

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Got started on the PowerStep Light install yesterday with my son-in-law. He had a wire tester and I wanted to verify the wire from the bed light to connect to. RamVader said it was white but mine looked more of a brownish color. Anyway it was the same as RamVader's and I used a wire tap to connect to that wire.
View attachment 64968
The wire tap I had and used was probably the wrong one, too big. We had trouble getting a reading from the tester and couldn't get a continuity reading either. I ended up shaving some of the wire insulation off and striped my added power wire (blue wire). Once I did that everything tested hot. Now I'm committed I guess.
View attachment 64970
Tucked the wire tap back into the factory sheathing and taped it in place. Reconnected the plug and reattached it to it's mounting location.
View attachment 64971
This picture shows the harness and factory mounting location. The blue wire has a butt connector on it and this is where it will terminate at. The white wire is my ground. I have the curt trailer harness setup for my add-on reverse lights. This made it easier for me to ground and be able to use a butt connector.
View attachment 64973
The lights are magnetic and are attached to this rail halfway between the doors. This is the front door. I looped the wire under the rail to the backside where I attached it.
View attachment 64974
Right now I'm using black gorilla tape. I put a base strip down and then covered the wire with another. I'm going to keep an eye on this and think about a better way.
View attachment 64975
Passenger side.
View attachment 64976
The two wires meet here and route behind the bar for the PowerStep. I used zip ties to attach to some factory wiring and followed that around the the rear of the felt covered box for our floor boxes.
View attachment 64977
View attachment 64978
The wires drop behind the floor box cubby in-line with this frame rail. This is my crossing point to the driver's side.
View attachment 64979
I don't have a fish tape so I had to use a wire hanger to guide the wires across. The hanger was perfect and you can see the wires dangling on the driver's side. This is my stopping point for the day though. It seems like it's 110 degrees in my garage. I'll pick back up on Tuesday.
This deserves its on post.
 

tedsterbv

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If you have been keeping up with my saga (probably not), I ordered my Ram Limited on February 29, 2020. I made a change while it was in D1 on May 29, 2020 to get the 33-gallon fuel tank. That put my build at the end of the line and honestly, I did not mind waiting through the COVID-19 shutdown of FCA. Those FCA line workers laboriously work shifts with which I would not wish to be tasked, so I was more than happy to have those folks stay safe at home with their families and not build my Ram until they felt safe on the line.

So, after almost six months of waiting, on Wednesday, what I did to my Ram was pick it up and drive it home.

On Friday, what I did to my Ram was install the OPT7 light bar under my multifunction tailgate thanks to the expert instruction, assistance, direction, and tutelage of RamVader. I also installed the Carven cat back exhaust that evening, but used the stock tips because the Carven tips extend out past the bumper too far for my liking. I know the Carven needs to break in a little, but it sounds amazing. Sort of quiet when driving easy, but deep and throaty, and aggressive when you put your foot into it. I also installed a BlendMount radar detector mount for my Escort Redline and hardwired it into the windshield camera; again, thanks to the folks in here in a thread entitled something like hardwire radar detectors.

Today, I got the windows tinted all the way around, except windshield. Heat shield on the windshield is a waste of money for me, so I opted not to get that done. I also installed the RamAir CAI and a small, but important mod, RAM valve stem covers.

Tomorrow, after 18 holes with my buddies at dawn as I have been doing for about 25 years, Husky mud flaps, LASFIT third brake light replacement bulbs, SprintBooster, and Hellwig sway bar go on!

View attachment 64881 View attachment 64882 View attachment 64883 View attachment 64884 View attachment 64885 View attachment 64886
I see you are planning on LASFIT 3rd brake light LED bulbs. I'm not sure if the Limited comes with LED lights in the cab, but if not, I would highly recommend changing all your cab lights to LEDs at the same time. The LED bulbs made a huge difference in my Big Horn's cab, which I notice all the time. I rarely notice the 3rd brake light, but there is a difference there too.
 
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Skater

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I see you are planning on LASFIT 3rd brake light LED bulbs. I'm not sure if the Limited comes with LED lights in the cab, but if not, I would highly recommend changing all your cab lights to LEDs at the same time. The LED bulbs made a huge difference in my Big Horn's cab, which I notice all the time. I rarely notice the 3rd brake light, but there is a difference there too.
Yeah, all of the bulbs in the cab, save and except the vanity mirror and I believe maybe the under dash courtesy lights, are LEDs and cannot be changed or replaced to my knowledge without removing the entire light fixture. Nevertheless, they are all LEDs. Although I have to check the glove boxes. I am not sure if they are LEDs or not. I can tell you the LASFIT LEDs in the third brake light (I got the red for the brake light and cargo white for the cargo lights) makes a huge difference. The stock incandescent bulbs are junk.
 

Skater

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Got started on the PowerStep Light install yesterday with my son-in-law. He had a wire tester and I wanted to verify the wire from the bed light to connect to. RamVader said it was white but mine looked more of a brownish color. Anyway it was the same as RamVader's and I used a wire tap to connect to that wire.
View attachment 64968
The wire tap I had and used was probably the wrong one, too big. We had trouble getting a reading from the tester and couldn't get a continuity reading either. I ended up shaving some of the wire insulation off and striped my added power wire (blue wire). Once I did that everything tested hot. Now I'm committed I guess.
View attachment 64970
Tucked the wire tap back into the factory sheathing and taped it in place. Reconnected the plug and reattached it to it's mounting location.
View attachment 64971
This picture shows the harness and factory mounting location. The blue wire has a butt connector on it and this is where it will terminate at. The white wire is my ground. I have the curt trailer harness setup for my add-on reverse lights. This made it easier for me to ground and be able to use a butt connector.
View attachment 64973
The lights are magnetic and are attached to this rail halfway between the doors. This is the front door. I looped the wire under the rail to the backside where I attached it.
View attachment 64974
Right now I'm using black gorilla tape. I put a base strip down and then covered the wire with another. I'm going to keep an eye on this and think about a better way.
View attachment 64975
Passenger side.
View attachment 64976
The two wires meet here and route behind the bar for the PowerStep. I used zip ties to attach to some factory wiring and followed that around the the rear of the felt covered box for our floor boxes.
View attachment 64977
View attachment 64978
The wires drop behind the floor box cubby in-line with this frame rail. This is my crossing point to the driver's side.
View attachment 64979
I don't have a fish tape so I had to use a wire hanger to guide the wires across. The hanger was perfect and you can see the wires dangling on the driver's side. This is my stopping point for the day though. It seems like it's 110 degrees in my garage. I'll pick back up on Tuesday.
I have not installed my running board lights yet on my Ram, but when I put them on my prior F-150, I used clear silicone to adhere them to the body after using the standard 3M tape (your gorilla tape). I covered the light strip in clear silicone and I covered the wires (laid them in a bed of silicone) at any place where they traversed a corner of metal or made a hard direction change. Wires have a tendency to rub and eventually will rub raw and expose copper leading to a possible short. If you do not cover them in silicone, my suggestion would be for you wrap them in wire harness tape, then corrugated wire loom to protect them from rubbing on the frame or body and shorting out eventually.

I know RamVader used sprinkler wire, which is covered in rubber and designed to run underground, so I am sure it is well insulated and prepared to deal with adverse conditions under your Ram.

Good work so far. Looks great. RamVader is a really good source of information.
 

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