What did you do to your Ram today???

[AdamChandler]

Went Off-Roading (on my dirt bike) but the truck got me there:

 

[Cliffrunner88]

Went Off-Roading (on my dirt bike) but the truck got me there:

Easy to spot the best looking truck there

 

[RHCan]

Here you go

 

[Desert Dawg]

I’m sitting in fast food line waiting. So I figured I check my voltage while I’m reading your post. 12.6v looking good for. But this is battery voltage. Where you getting system voltage?

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Good clarification; I was referring to the battery voltage drop!

 

[Kingkeller50]

Added the door trim pieces that go with the console
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That looks sick. Do you have a link ?


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[LuvGun]

That looks sick. Do you have a link ?


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Thanks

 

[bportillo1314]

I Finally wash my truck

 

[Mustangmike66]

Traded the Rebel for this.

2019 Ram Rebel, 5.7 Hemi

 

[‘19ramlveryeha]

Blacked out the front Skid Plate … sooooo much better

Used Raptor Liner Bed Coating

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Nice


2019 Ram 1500 ORP “long bed” - setting #5 bilsteins, 2”mopar ucas, hellwig sway bar, tonneau cover, bed mat, 20” Laramie sport wheels on 285/60r20 falkens. Flowmaster outlaw.

 

[Mountain Whiskey]

I drove through the carwash this morning.

 

[MurphBigHorn]

Good clarification; I was referring to the battery voltage drop!

Oh ok. It would be nice if we could see running system too. I thought maybe I was missing it.


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[Johnny32g]

PPF front end. Added the husky liners, tonneau, egr window, and tinted third brake light, taillight, and side view mirror signal. I’m pretty happy with it. Now for the noise maker mods. borla atak, and maybe a CAI

 

[Dogpatch]

Heard a loud tick today on passenger side in the wheel well on a cold start. It went away after the truck warmed up. It sounded different from what I know is the Hemi tick. Called my dealership and sent them a video. Was told either a manifold bolt or manifold itself. Going in Wednesday for diagnosis.
Getting my driver side power mirror replaced, oil change and my new Hellwig 7709 Sway Bar installed. May as well get everything done at once!

 

[BowDown]

I just got my truck back from the dealer last night after dropping it off to check out the issue. Actually, I had (3) issues.

Anyway, the dealer said they scanned the truck and could not find any error codes (I didn't think they would after the check engine light intermittently came on and off and eventually cleared itself). They checked the battery and said no cells were damaged and the battery is at full charge.

I asked about the normal range for the voltage drop while driving. Mine usually hovers around 14.2-14.4. The Tech said a drop ~0.15 is considered normal. Now I am not so sure I heard him right because I had my voltage gauge display on and while I drove away, the voltage dropped to 13.4 which is a lot more than a .15 drop; this is exactly what it did during my battery issue in Colorado and when the check engine light would come back on. It is now back up to 14.2.

I had told the dealer about online reports of this happening to numerous 1500 and 2500 trucks. I also told them that a normal car jump did nothing and had to call roadside service. He wasn't interested much in any of that since their electronic checks showed nothing wrong. I am pretty sure he didn't take any time to investigate himself.

BTW, they couldn't duplicate my other (2) issues either, and so enough they resurfaced as I drove away. If I didn't have to go pick up dinner for the family, I would turned around and drove right back to the dealer.

Sorry this is of no help for you! I am at the point of seriously considering getting rid of the truck. Since I do a lot of road trips into the mountains, and lots of desert and mountain off-roading, I can't be worried about not making it back out. I simply don't trust the truck (with the battery and weird squeaking noises from the rear) and I have no faith in the service support to help me figure it out.

Edit: researched "normal" voltage drops while driving and it seems that it varies greatly depending on vehicle, alternator, etc. but my drop of up to 1.0 seems to be within the typical range. So now wondering if the Tech meant (or actually said) a drop of 1.5 is normal, not .15. Similar issues in this thread with some good explanation of Ram's modern charging system:

Battery Voltage Indicator - falling numbers

Wife and I are on a trip, 6 hours from home. 19 1500, 1 year old with 12K miles. My truck battery voltage has read consistently at 14.3 since purchased. While driving today, I noticed the battery bar gauge that I have on the dash looked a little lower than usual so I pulled the battery...

5thgenrams.com

I’m sitting in fast food line waiting. So I figured I check my voltage while I’m reading your post. 12.6v looking good for. But this is battery voltage. Where you getting system voltage?

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Good clarification; I was referring to the battery voltage drop!

That is system voltage, its the same thing, system/battery voltage.
Desert, is your truck an etorque truck? They usually run 13.8-14.4 range, mine does. The non etorque trucks usually run lower.
Theres a thread about it here https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/what-voltage-should-etorque-be-at.28919/

 

[Desert Dawg]

That is system voltage, its the same thing, system/battery voltage.
Desert, is your truck an etorque truck? They usually run 13.8-14.4 range, mine does. The non etorque trucks usually run lower.
Theres a thread about it here https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/what-voltage-should-etorque-be-at.28919/

No, mine is non-eTorque. I had read that thread too when searching for answers; very interesting read on the voltage fluctuation issues but non-much on the actual dead battery issue. Also read somewhere that a dead battery can be due to a bad USB module any other such issue. Just doesn't make sense that the battery would be stone dead one day, can't take a normal jump, gets a battery pack jump, and then throws all sorts of warning lights that eventually clear after several restarts, and battery starts back up every time after that. Also disconcerting when out in the boonies or isolated highway to see the voltage go from normal (14.2-14.4V) down to mid and low 13s. Maybe that's normal on these trucks eTorque or not reports by many others of having dead batteries surely isn't. Crazy.

 

[BowDown]

No, mine is non-eTorque. I had read that thread too when searching for answers; very interesting read on the voltage fluctuation issues but non-much on the actual dead battery issue. Also read somewhere that a dead battery can be due to a bad USB module any other such issue. Just doesn't make sense that the battery would be stone dead one day, can't take a normal jump, gets a battery pack jump, and then throws all sorts of warning lights that eventually clear after several restarts, and battery starts back up every time after that. Also disconcerting when out in the boonies or isolated highway to see the voltage go from normal (14.2-14.4V) down to mid and low 13s. Maybe that's normal on these trucks eTorque or not reports by many others of having dead batteries surely isn't. Crazy.

IDK, I've had it happen on my Z06, battery seemed fine and the next day, dead AF. I could charge it with my charger and it would have a full charge in under an hour but barely start the car, bad cells.
I now have a Schumacher battery charger from batterychargers.com, it will test and charge the battery but display good/charging or when the battery is bad, 6V/Charging. There's a lot of **** batteries in production but I hear you on the inconsistence's

 

[Trooper4]

The Tesla tells you how long it charges, and the electric company offers a very low overnight rate of $0.01/kWh (Georgia Power Company) between 11pm-7am. He has the Tesla Y, with a 60 kWh battery. At $0.01/kWh, it should cost no more than $0.60 to charge from zero. I asked him to verify his math, because $0.25 would be less than 100 miles, with its energy economy listed as 28 kWh per 100 miles. He must've been referring to a top up, rather than full charge from drained. The equipment cost was simply some wires and the plug, which he installed himself and it wasn't expensive, $500. Besides that, GPC offers a $250 rebate on the Level 2 Charger so he recovered half. $10 for your neighbor?! Whoo wee!

Wife's Prius Prime costs her $0.70 to full charge and gets her 25-30 miles around town. Sure cheaper than gas at $3.50+ and 25 mpg or even 50 mpg

 

[Brunzca]

Got the Paragoptics LED footwell boards installed yesterday, and the map light LED's installed this morning. Removing the console to change the map lights wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, but I couldn't get the assembly apart once I did to change the bulbs. Ended up having to pop off the covers, and push the stock bulbs out from the back. For anyone else who does this - the "socket" that holds the map bulbs isn't the sturdiest thing in the world, and it when you push in the new LED, it moves around. You have to (obviously) make sure the wires are all touching, or it won't work. But, if you mess with it too much, the socket pieces get all bent out of shape, and it makes this a much more difficult job than it should be.

 

[GeePee77]

Quick wash and detail…

 

[Idahoktm]

PPF front end. Added the husky liners, tonneau, egr window, and tinted third brake light, taillight, and side view mirror signal. I’m pretty happy with it. Now for the noise maker mods. borla atak, and maybe a CAI

Did you use the Luxe tint for your mirrors, tail lights, and third brake light? Which level of tint did you get?