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What did you do to your Ram today???

Yesterday, I installed EGR mirror visors, and today, I removed them an will return them.

I ordered the matte black, but think I would have been happier with the smoked. The matte blocks visibility more than I thought it would, as if the A pillar is two inches thicker. Also, the B pillar in the Longhorn is glossy black, so the smoke would have been a better match. Fortunately, Amazon accepted the return.

Maybe I’ll get the glossy one day. My wife swears by hers, but I could take ‘em or leave ‘em. I’ll think about it.

stock Mopar. Like them and smoked.
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Hmm, I've done a lot of changes with AlfaODB. Adding passive entry, adding rain sensing wipers, adding auto park assist, adding FCW and acc, etc. The last one I had to have the dealer enable and my warranty is still intact. He probably didn't remove the Tazer before taking it in. So yes, I stand by my statement.
Yea I dunno which guy he is talking about, but there's a recently active thread where a guy left it in when he brought it to the dealer, nothing good is gonna come of that.
 
Those are actually pretty nice
They look nice and are well made. From the outside of the truck, I’ve got no complaints (but again, do think smoke would be a better match).

It’s from the inside of the truck that I have my concerns. A pillars on modern cars and trucks are already so big and leave a front blind spot, I don’t want to add to it.

If wouldn’t hesitate to recommend EGR. I would recommend smoke over matte, though.
 
Yea I dunno which guy he is talking about, but there's a recently active thread where a guy left it in when he brought it to the dealer, nothing good is gonna come of that.
Think again big dog. Guy using tazer had his warranty voided.


2019 Ram 1500 ORP “long bed” - setting #5 bilsteins, 2”mopar ucas, hellwig sway bar, tonneau cover, bed mat, 20” Laramie sport wheels on 285/60r20 falkens. Flowmaster outlaw.

Hmm, I've done a lot of changes with AlfaODB. Adding passive entry, adding rain sensing wipers, adding auto park assist, adding FCW and acc, etc. The last one I had to have the dealer enable and my warranty is still intact. He probably didn't remove the Tazer before taking it in. So yes, I stand by my statement.
 
It controls the defroster on the sliding portion of the rear window. Mine has broken off 3 times now. On mine, the bottom "button" part attached to the window keeps snapping off and stays inside the plug/harness. The dealership has re-soldered it twice and it broke off the first time I open the window each time. The dealer said the next course of action is a new rear window.
Thank you. Confirmed my suspicions and give me something to worry about when it goes to the dealer, lol
 
Tore my back seat out today after the dealership couldn't figure out where a whistle was coming from. Only happened when my driver front window was down at 40-50mph. Well after removing the seat and some trim pieces I found an empty unused bolt hole next to the seat that you can see the ground through. You can see on has blue thread lock on it and the other doesn’t. After I taped the extra hole up and test drove the noise it gone. I’ll find a more permanent solution to plug it, but problem solved. 38B40268-800C-4824-96B1-9F0F1BF8B018.jpeg
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Tore my back seat out today after the dealership couldn't figure out where a whistle was coming from. Only happened when my driver front window was down at 40-50mph. Well after removing the seat and some trim pieces I found an empty unused bolt hole next to the seat that you can see the ground through. You can see on has blue thread lock on it and the other doesn’t. After I taped the extra hole up and test drove the noise it gone. I’ll find a more permanent solution to plug it, but problem solved. View attachment 100079
View attachment 100080

I get a whistle I thought was the slider, but maybe it’s this since I can’t pinpoint it from the driver’s seat. Appears to be on the passenger side, correct? I just had it out a week ago to put sound matting on the sub, I should’ve checked then.


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I get a whistle I thought was the slider, but maybe it’s this since I can’t pinpoint it from the driver’s seat. Appears to be on the passenger side, correct? I just had it out a week ago to put sound matting on the sub, I should’ve checked then.


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Yeah this is the passenger side. Chances are its the same thing for yours. I had thought it was the slider, the rear passenger door seal but it was that bolt hole all along. Does yours occur when you have one window down and the cab gets a bit more pressure?
 
Tore my back seat out today after the dealership couldn't figure out where a whistle was coming from. Only happened when my driver front window was down at 40-50mph. Well after removing the seat and some trim pieces I found an empty unused bolt hole next to the seat that you can see the ground through. You can see on has blue thread lock on it and the other doesn’t. After I taped the extra hole up and test drove the noise it gone. I’ll find a more permanent solution to plug it, but problem solved. View attachment 100079
View attachment 100080
There’s a TSB for this issue.
 
There’s a TSB for this issue.
I knew there was something out there for this. Thanks for pointing that out, i searched the forums for a while to no avail. Glad I reinvented the wheel this round...
 
Yeah this is the passenger side. Chances are its the same thing for yours. I had thought it was the slider, the rear passenger door seal but it was that bolt hole all along. Does yours occur when you have one window down and the cab gets a bit more pressure?

Yeah it only seems to do it if I just have the driver’s window down. I’ll have to check it out today.


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Washed and tried out the LAST COAT. Stuff seems very nice. Shall See how long it last. I ended up doing the windows, body and wheels.


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Just had the same thing on my 2020 2500, any ideas? im in hawaii and the dealership cant get me in until next month! Thanks in advance

I just got my truck back from the dealer last night after dropping it off to check out the issue. Actually, I had (3) issues.

Anyway, the dealer said they scanned the truck and could not find any error codes (I didn't think they would after the check engine light intermittently came on and off and eventually cleared itself). They checked the battery and said no cells were damaged and the battery is at full charge.

I asked about the normal range for the voltage drop while driving. Mine usually hovers around 14.2-14.4. The Tech said a drop ~0.15 is considered normal. Now I am not so sure I heard him right because I had my voltage gauge display on and while I drove away, the voltage dropped to 13.4 which is a lot more than a .15 drop; this is exactly what it did during my battery issue in Colorado and when the check engine light would come back on. It is now back up to 14.2.

I had told the dealer about online reports of this happening to numerous 1500 and 2500 trucks. I also told them that a normal car jump did nothing and had to call roadside service. He wasn't interested much in any of that since their electronic checks showed nothing wrong. I am pretty sure he didn't take any time to investigate himself.

BTW, they couldn't duplicate my other (2) issues either, and sure enough they resurfaced as I drove away. If I didn't have to go pick up dinner for the family, I would turned around and drove right back to the dealer.

Sorry this is of no help for you! I am at the point of seriously considering getting rid of the truck. Since I do a lot of road trips into the mountains, and lots of desert and mountain off-roading, I can't be worried about not making it back out. I simply don't trust the truck (with the battery and weird squeaking noises from the rear) and I have no faith in the service support to help me figure it out.

Edit: researched "normal" voltage drops while driving and it seems that it varies greatly depending on vehicle, alternator, etc. but my drop of up to 1.0 seems to be within the typical range. So now wondering if the Tech meant (or actually said) a drop of 1.5 is normal, not .15. Similar issues in this thread with some good explanation of Ram's modern charging system:

 
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I just got my truck back from the dealer last night after dropping it off to check out the issue. Actually, I had (3) issues.

Anyway, the dealer said they scanned the truck and could not find any error codes (I didn't think they would after the check engine light intermittently came on and off and eventually cleared itself). They checked the battery and said no cells were damaged and the battery is at full charge.

I asked about the normal range for the voltage drop while driving. Mine usually hovers around 14.2-14.4. The Tech said a drop ~0.15 is considered normal. Now I am not so sure I heard him right because I had my voltage gauge display on and while I drove away, the voltage dropped to 13.4 which is a lot more than a .15 drop; this is exactly what it did during my battery issue in Colorado and when the check engine light would come back on. It is now back up to 14.2.

I had told the dealer about online reports of this happening to numerous 1500 and 2500 trucks. I also told them that a normal car jump did nothing and had to call roadside service. He wasn't interested much in any of that since their electronic checks showed nothing wrong. I am pretty sure he didn't take any time to investigate himself.

BTW, they couldn't duplicate my other (2) issues either, and so enough they resurfaced as I drove away. If I didn't have to go pick up dinner for the family, I would turned around and drove right back to the dealer.

Sorry this is of no help for you! I am at the point of seriously considering getting rid of the truck. Since I do a lot of road trips into the mountains, and lots of desert and mountain off-roading, I can't be worried about not making it back out. I simply don't trust the truck (with the battery and weird squeaking noises from the rear) and I have no faith in the service support to help me figure it out. So frustrating and now got me thinking about getting rid of my truck (would love the excuse to get a Power Wagon but probably not without knowing what the heck is going on with Ram trucks).

Edit: researched "normal" voltage drops while driving and it seems that it varies greatly depending on vehicle, alternator, etc. but my drop of up to 1.0 seems to be within the typical range. So now wondering if the Tech meant (or actually said) a drop of 1.5 is normal, not .15. Similar issues in this thread with some good explanation of Ram's modern charging system:


I’m sitting in fast food line waiting. So I figured I check my voltage while I’m reading your post. 12.6v looking good for. But this is battery voltage. Where you getting system voltage?
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Yeah it only seems to do it if I just have the driver’s window down. I’ll have to check it out today.


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Fairly certain you have the same issue as me.
 
Just installed the Pedal Commander, feels good to get rid of that lag. I’m not trying to consume more fuel but so far I like City+4. I haven’t tried Sport+ but regular Sport +4 was pretty fun lol. When I put it on Eco man was that a drag, seemed laggier then stock 🤣. I’ll see how my MPG does during my work commute on Monday which is 60+ miles everyday.
 

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