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What did you do to your Ram today???

Forgot to mention this in my earlier post. This blew when I hooked up the brand new trailer to the truck this morning. Trying to figure out why. Initial hookup yielded left side front and rear marker lights working. Never could get the right side to light up only in the rear. After going through all the light checks and inspecting the inside of the trailer, all while still hooked up to the truck, closed trailer and all marker lights no longer worked. Checked power to my TBC and everything showed still connected. Never lost lights on the truck, just the trailer. Used the spare fuse in the engine bay box and original lights returned. Still no right rear marker light. Brakes and turn signals never stopped working. Sounds like a short in the trailer wiring, but it's brand new? Never had an issue with other trailers. Thoughts?

What kind of trailer is it? My brand new Haulmark car hauler was rusting in less than 2 months. Warranty claim the found it was just steel shavings from the self taping screws between the aluminum molding and the aluminum skin. (Had a dozen or more spots like this, this was the worst. Still don’t have trailer back yet.)8B3E8AF0-FDD0-49CB-AF3F-0391FCC0E23A.jpeg
All this was happening at the same time I had the problem with my first truck, so new truck hasn’t towed yet.. Also have wdh, just not set up yet (pulled it 300+ miles so far, all just hauling air on a standard hitch.). Lights have been fine. My move will be a little farther than yours.
 
What kind of trailer is it? My brand new Haulmark car hauler was rusting in less than 2 months. Warranty claim the found it was just steel shavings from the self taping screws between the aluminum molding and the aluminum skin. (Had a dozen or more spots like this, this was the worst. Still don’t have trailer back yet.)View attachment 68098
All this was happening at the same time I had the problem with my first truck, so new truck hasn’t towed yet.. Also have wdh, just not set up yet (pulled it 300+ miles so far, all just hauling air on a standard hitch.). Lights have been fine. My move will be a little farther than yours.
Brand new Airing. This belongs to my church, so I don't know where they bought it from. The have had it a few weeks. The church facility manager is taking care of it. I just thought I would put a feeler out, if anyone had ideas. All the wiring is still fully loomed, so I could not inspect the wires, but the plug looked good.
 
The usual logo swap out to black. Thanks for sending me info on where to order and how to swap them out quick. Really did take about 5 minutes.
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Brand new Airing. This belongs to my church, so I don't know where they bought it from. The have had it a few weeks. The church facility manager is taking care of it. I just thought I would put a feeler out, if anyone had ideas. All the wiring is still fully loomed, so I could not inspect the wires, but the plug looked good.

With trailers it’s almost always a grounding problem. Growing up we had several home made trailers and the lights rarely worked once we got out the driveway - after a while we just stopped trying. Registration was usually expired anyway too, but those days are long gone..

If you’ve got access to another tow vehicle you might try that to eliminate that’s it’s not something funky in your truck.

Measuring resistance on the circuits of the trailer is the obvious starting point, but if yours is like mine, the lights are led and you can’t just ‘remove the bulb’ anymore..

This is just a 3/4 pin connector, your surely a 7 to include the brakes. But the general idea is here:
 
With trailers it’s almost always a grounding problem. Growing up we had several home made trailers and the lights rarely worked once we got out the driveway - after a while we just stopped trying. Registration was usually expired anyway too, but those days are long gone..

If you’ve got access to another tow vehicle you might try that to eliminate that’s it’s not something funky in your truck.

Measuring resistance on the circuits of the trailer is the obvious starting point, but if yours is like mine, the lights are led and you can’t just ‘remove the bulb’ anymore..

This is just a 3/4 pin connector, your surely a 7 to include the brakes. But the general idea is here:
Thanks for the feedback. This video by Farm Dad was pretty helpful in understanding which pins to check on the connector and the truck. I am not extremely concerned about the issue, as far as my one-time use is concerned. I just have to make sure I am driving during daylight hours, since the brakes and turns still work.
 
Black rebel wheels and black lugs came in. Still having a bit of analysis paralysis on 275/70 vs 295/70 and Toyo vs Falken, but heavily leaning towards 295/70 Falkens.

Now I just need my truck to be built and delivered.

View attachment 68118

Already mod’ing and the truck isn’t there yet! Lol


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Thanks
Do you get any annoying drone at highway speeds with the 40? I want to hear my truck when I step on it but want to also be able to put cruise control at 75-80 and have a quiet cabin.
My scatpack has an active exhaust so it was perfect you would get a nice quiet highway ride but as soon as u stepped on it opened up the valve and you could hear the HEMI.
I don’t notice any drone on the hwy. Its actually pretty quite on the hwy, but I also listen to a lot of music so I don’t hear the exhaust at all on trips unless I get into it.
 
Black rebel wheels and black lugs came in. Still having a bit of analysis paralysis on 275/70 vs 295/70 and Toyo vs Falken, but heavily leaning towards 295/70 Falkens.

Now I just need my truck to be built and delivered.

View attachment 68118
Did you order those from the dealer? Any chance you would share the cost?
 
Did you order those from the dealer? Any chance you would share the cost?
I got them from a member here. I paid ~$900 shipped from the west coast to East, which seemed like a good price compared to what I would have had to pay locally, even when almost half of that was shipping.
 
4d48eb857190e2ec624108323ad0c512.jpg

Used 11mm lights from oznium and the surrounds holding them in place are actually drilled out 5/8 rubber feet from ace, looks damn near stock to me.
a343165f7411539ec2354b266abb2bd7.jpg

Close up lights will be amber once my fuse taps arrives.


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The usual logo swap out to black. Thanks for sending me info on where to order and how to swap them out quick. Really did take about 5 minutes.
08980b6279306fc375eaafc24e470589.jpg



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Where did you order them from and what other color options did they have?
 
Nice! I’m partial to that billet gray but that looks real nice. Have you thought about adding spacers to the wheels? I keep tossing that idea around my head


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I thought about it but glad I didn’t now. It’s right at 1.5” out now. Think that’s plenty for me. Was actually looking at the black on black originally but glad it sold before I got time to hit the dealership. This was definitely the right color scheme for me. Hopefully the Bushwacker fender flares will be in this week to complete this portion of my project.
 
I thought about it but glad I didn’t now. It’s right at 1.5” out now. Think that’s plenty for me. Was actually looking at the black on black originally but glad it sold before I got time to hit the dealership. This was definitely the right color scheme for me. Hopefully the Bushwacker fender flares will be in this week to complete this portion of my project.

Did you do the grill?

My 33’s actually had a surprising amount of poke when I put them on so that’s the only thing that’s kept me from ordering


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Did you do the grill?

My 33’s actually had a surprising amount of poke when I put them on so that’s the only thing that’s kept me from ordering


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I was afraid it would be too much projection for me. Now I’m certain. lol.
Grill is stock. I’ve not touched it.
 

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