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What did you do to your Ram today???

No, but interested in seeing more if you do. They only show these with RamBoxes. Was thinking my standard bed lights angled forward more than their photos show.
Ok so the bed lights arrived. Right away I took em out and looked into the plug housing. These are much deeper than the others, however idk if that means anything yet as I have to get the oem ones off the truck first. These look like they’ll directly fit, and are just snap in, but the nightmare here is getting up into the bedside to get the oems popped out.
ACFED9A6-363D-4753-869A-44F6FDB87A41.jpeg

So there’s a tab at the bottom and a clip at the top. And in my bedside, even with the tail light off, it was next to impossible to 1. Get all the way up to the top of the light, 2. Have enough leverage to push the clip down while 3 pushing it out of the bed wall. Imma try one more time today with a couple ideas and some”improvised tools” because the engineer in me won’t just let it go. 🤣😂 but if it gets too much, I’ll be giving up on these too.

I guess in should have known better than to say “these two quick mods” in my original post. 🤦🏻‍♂️
 
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Hopped on the AJT key fob bandwagon


52a07c2ea8d396bae62524d9cc25c2db.jpg
I had one of these back when I had a tundra because the tundra key fob was literally the same as the one they had for the Camry. The AJT one made it look like a truck fob.

That was before they had all these button color combos and stuff. But I also didn’t have a push button start. I’m actually really curious how the physical key fits into the new AJT ones. (My ignition key works with my ram boxes and my bed divider so I like having it with me inside the fob)

I’ll have to check his site and see if they show that part of the swap over.

Either way, looks good!! 👍🏼👍🏼
 
I had one of these back when I had a tundra because the tundra key fob was literally the same as the one they had for the Camry. The AJT one made it look like a truck fob.

That was before they had all these button color combos and stuff. But I also didn’t have a push button start. I’m actually really curious how the physical key fits into the new AJT ones. (My ignition key works with my ram boxes and my bed divider so I like having it with me inside the fob)

I’ll have to check his site and see if they show that part of the swap over.

Either way, looks good!! 👍🏼👍🏼

The key is held onto the bottom of the RAM fob by a roll pin. You can punch it out and put it into the AJT fob. That being said, if you use it all the time for ramboxes etc I would probably find a way to have it on the keychain rather than in the fob.
 

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I had one of these back when I had a tundra because the tundra key fob was literally the same as the one they had for the Camry. The AJT one made it look like a truck fob.

That was before they had all these button color combos and stuff. But I also didn’t have a push button start. I’m actually really curious how the physical key fits into the new AJT ones. (My ignition key works with my ram boxes and my bed divider so I like having it with me inside the fob)

I’ll have to check his site and see if they show that part of the swap over.

Either way, looks good!! 👍🏼👍🏼
I tried the AJT cases. Works with my factory key fob internals, but the eBay fob I bought to get remote tailgate release, wouldn't work in it. Looks just like the factory fob, except the switches soldered to the board are just a hair taller than the factory fob, so the case pushes down on the buttons when screwed together.
 
I tried the AJT cases. Works with my factory key fob internals, but the eBay fob I bought to get remote tailgate release, wouldn't work in it. Looks just like the factory fob, except the switches soldered to the board are just a hair taller than the factory fob, so the case pushes down on the buttons when screwed together.
Got a link or pic? Id love a tailgate release button...

Sent from my SM-G781U1 using Tapatalk
 
The key is held onto the bottom of the RAM fob by a roll pin. You can punch it out and put it into the AJT fob. That being said, if you use it all the time for ramboxes etc I would probably find a way to have it on the keychain rather than in the fob.
very good info, thx! and the truck came with 2 "rambox keys" that are just a chipless regular lookin key version of the ignition key so, worse to worst i'd just put one of those on the ring. thx for the pic!
 
I tried the AJT cases. Works with my factory key fob internals, but the eBay fob I bought to get remote tailgate release, wouldn't work in it. Looks just like the factory fob, except the switches soldered to the board are just a hair taller than the factory fob, so the case pushes down on the buttons when screwed together.
yeah these usually work great when you're just swapping the oem guts as he does a really precise 3d model of the oem for the injection molds. but otherwise those subtle differences can ruin it. sux.
 
yeah these usually work great when you're just swapping the oem guts as he does a really precise 3d model of the oem for the injection molds. but otherwise those subtle differences can ruin it. sux.
Adam replied to my email. He said to try sanding a little off the back side of the button insert to make it work. So going to try that. Instead of taking my wife's fob back apart, I just ordered another case from AJT.
 
Got a link or pic? Id love a tailgate release button...

Sent from my SM-G781U1 using Tapatalk
This is the one I bought.
 
Adam replied to my email. He said to try sanding a little off the back side of the button insert to make it work. So going to try that. Instead of taking my wife's fob back apart, I just ordered another case from AJT.
He’s good like that!
 
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ they fit, the plugs fit, and they are way brighter, but this is def a 1-way trip. So if they fail I have to buy new ones as all that trying to push it forward while pulling the clip down, broke said clip off, since the oem and the new are brittle abs plastic.

OEM:
E6681ED3-1A42-43BF-953C-FAD6A6480EE3.jpeg

New:
70438DF8-507B-415E-A502-90AF657DDC1C.jpeg

Broken clip oem:
69495424-9AF2-4A3B-916D-3E3DAD3114F4.jpeg

Plus you can see what was the other problem, torn adhesive foam gasket around the perimeter of the oem light.

And I also realized they don’t remove these to do the bedliner, just tape em off. So that didn’t assist either.

Anyway, brighter and they work, but not worth the hassle. But I’m sorta stuck with em now.

Thank god swapping the oem button on the drivers side one wasn’t hard. 3 tabs, pop it out and pop it into the new one.

37FE5540-C204-4806-9EB1-B746A9106F63.jpeg 6DB08D59-90DC-4904-BDA3-C82CBD638565.jpeg D44BA722-4B64-4F4D-A9D4-45D3BD0CCAF9.jpeg
 
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¯\_(ツ)_/¯ they fit, the plugs fit, and they are way brighter, but this is def a 1-way trip. Sonic they fail I have to buy new ones as all that trying to push it forward while pulling the clip down, broke said clip off since the oem and the new are brittle abs plastic.

OEM:
View attachment 148837

New:
View attachment 148838

Broken clip oem:
View attachment 148839

Plus you can see what was the other problem, torn adhesive foam gasket around the perimeter of the oem light.

And I also realized they don’t remove these to do the bedliner, just tape em off. So that didn’t assist either.

Anyway, brighter and they work, but not worth the hassle. But I’m sorta stuck with em now.

Thank god swapping the oem button on the drivers side one wasn’t hard. 3 tabs, pop it out and pop it into the new one.

View attachment 148843 View attachment 148844 View attachment 148845
Thanks for taking one for the team. Sounds like adding light pods or strips, rather than replacing the OEM lights, is the better approach (I went with light strips personally).

The difficulty removing the existing lights shows why, if you want to tap into the existing wiring, the easiest route is to remove a taillight; I went with the driver side.

C84419FB-F456-4E7E-A12F-F8EE90DA0AC0.jpeg
 
Thanks for taking one for the team. Sounds like adding light pods or strips, rather than replacing the OEM lights, is the better approach (I went with light strips personally).

The difficulty removing the existing lights shows why, if you want to tap into the existing wiring, the easiest route is to remove a taillight; I went with the driver side.

View attachment 148849
yup, i'd agree wit that. The strips tho are less of an option with the ramboxes since theres no under bedrail access to put em on. BUT alot of the mounting solutions for tonneaus (like the one i have) actually give you that when they slide into the accessory rail. so maybe still an option for more light even after these. (y)
 
The key is held onto the bottom of the RAM fob by a roll pin. You can punch it out and put it into the AJT fob. That being said, if you use it all the time for ramboxes etc I would probably find a way to have it on the keychain rather than in the fob.
so follow up question, when you do have the key inside the AJT fob, does it stay put, or does it rattle around in there making the fob sound like you have tic-tacs in your pocket? :ROFLMAO:

I also notice that Adam is now actually coloring the marks on the button faces which is excellent. the ones i had were black buttons with embossed symbols but they didn't pop out at you, so when like the wife grabbed my keys she's have to kinda give them a 2nd or 3rd look before picking the right button. looks like thats not an issue no mo. are his buttons still also injection molded plastic, or rubber now?
 
so follow up question, when you do have the key inside the AJT fob, does it stay put, or does it rattle around in there making the fob sound like you have tic-tacs in your pocket?

I also notice that Adam is now actually coloring the marks on the button faces which is excellent. the ones i had were black buttons with embossed symbols but they didn't pop out at you, so when like the wife grabbed my keys she's have to kinda give them a 2nd or 3rd look before picking the right button. looks like thats not an issue no mo. are his buttons still also injection molded plastic, or rubber now?
I can send a pic of the buttons, they are really nice IMO and the key is held in place by a raised plastic outline of the key shape. No noise at all or Id throw it away.

Sent from my SM-G781U1 using Tapatalk
 
Let us know how the unloaded ride is. Do you have ORP? Did you use the spacer? Does the axle rest on the Sumo at resting ride height.
The ride is basically the same unloaded. The axel does touch the sumo but just barely so it is not compressed. The truck is leveled so that probably makes it closer to the axel. I have only felt a difference on really big expansion joints and bumps.

I have not pulled anything because the travel trailer is in storage for the winter.
 

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