Towing the new camper

[Builderdude]

Roger that. Thanks for the help.

 

[silver billet]

Hey, great pics. I have had issues with the truck feeling like the back end is shimmying with the recurve r3 WDH and my TT with 800lb tongue weight. I have the timbrens which made it hard to dial in the recurve. I just upgraded to the cooper AT3 E rated tires (I think my tires were sidewall flexing too much) and bought an anderson hitch. My question to you is, how many turns did you have on your anderson when you had it dialed in (Before the propride)? Thanks.

I had the husky centerline before switching last year to the Anderson. IMHO you don't need to spend any real time on a scale or worrying about it, I certainly didn't. I did get it pretty much level and that's all I need. If you feel you're porpoising too much yet, just stop and take 5 seconds to turn the nut in one more thread. That's the beauty of the system, there is no permanent "set position", every time you hook up you can make adjustments as needed depending on your load (fresh water on board etc).

Trying to make recommendations based on other users descriptions is hard to do. In my case I was trying to reduce vertical bounce in my truck suspension. I tried several times with the husky but it was never as good as the anderson is.

My theory is because the anderson uses chains, whereas the other systems use trunion bars which are (in effect) a second "spring" that can induce or react to other suspension travel in the rear of the truck, and so now you have 2 suspension systems flexing instead of just the truck coils. With the anderson, the hitch itself no longer flexes due to the use of chains, only the coils in the truck flex. This made a huge difference and is better so far than anything else I've tried, including a combination of husky + sumo springs (sumo springs didn't make a difference for my issue, it just looked better visibly but didn't feel better towing)

The only thing I would add, look out for the chains as they travel through the square tubing containing the thread/bolt. Sometimes my chain end gets jammed against the end of the tubing so the bolt feels tight as the "lead" of the chain is wedged in/against the tubing, but the trailer end of the chain is actually quite slack (not visibly) because the bolt is tightened against the beginning of the chain and not the end. Had two sketchy pulls before I figured that out!

Just so you have something to compare to. I have 20 inch michelin defender tires aired up quite high while towing, and also did the hellwig swaybar which I keep on stiffest setting. I wasn't fighting a "shimmy" or horizontal movement so much as a vertical up/down bounce which finally cleared up with the Anderson.

Edit: Also, the amount of turns of the nuts (like you asked for) can't be copied from trailer to trailer, you need to find your own amount of turns. It's dependent on the distance of your coupler to the end of the frame brackets, as well as how heavy your tongue is etc. What works me for me probably won't work for you.

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

I had the husky centerline before switching last year to the Anderson. IMHO you don't need to spend any real time on a scale or worrying about it, I certainly didn't. I did get it pretty much level and that's all I need. If you feel you're porpoising too much yet, just stop and take 5 seconds to turn the nut in one more thread. That's the beauty of the system, there is no permanent "set position", every time you hook up you can make adjustments as needed depending on your load (fresh water on board etc).

Trying to make recommendations based on other users descriptions is hard to do. In my case I was trying to reduce vertical bounce in my truck suspension. I tried several times with the husky but it was never as good as the anderson is.

My theory is because the anderson uses chains, whereas the other systems use trunion bars which are (in effect) a second "spring" that can induce or react to other suspension travel in the rear of the truck, and so now you have 2 suspension systems flexing instead of just the truck coils. With the anderson, the hitch itself no longer flexes due to the use of chains, only the coils in the truck flex. This made a huge difference and is better so far than anything else I've tried, including a combination of husky + sumo springs (sumo springs didn't make a difference for my issue, it just looked better visibly but didn't feel better towing)

The only thing I would add, look out for the chains as they travel through the square tubing containing the thread/bolt. Sometimes my chain end gets jammed against the end of the tubing so the bolt feels tight as the "lead" of the chain is wedged in/against the tubing, but the trailer end of the chain is actually quite slack (not visibly) because the bolt is tightened against the beginning of the chain and not the end. Had two sketchy pulls before I figured that out!

Just so you have something to compare to. I have 20 inch michelin defender tires aired up quite high while towing, and also did the hellwig swaybar which I keep on stiffest setting. I wasn't fighting a "shimmy" or horizontal movement so much as a vertical up/down bounce which finally cleared up with the Anderson.

Edit: Also, the amount of turns of the nuts (like you asked for) can't be copied from trailer to trailer, you need to find your own amount of turns. It's dependent on the distance of your coupler to the end of the frame brackets, as well as how heavy your tongue is etc. What works me for me probably won't work for you.

Good summary and tips.

I'll say that I don't agree about the scales. If you're towing often and/or heavy, it's worth the half hour and $20 to make three passes.

 

[silver billet]

Good summary and tips.

I'll say that I don't agree about the scales. If you're towing often and/or heavy, it's worth the half hour and $20 to make three passes.

I can see that. For me I know my trailer as I've towed with it for years now, and also just double checked it the first time with tape measure (forget the exact idea there, think its something like half the loaded weight should go back onto the front. So measure front unloaded, measure front loaded, subtract the 2, divide by 2; subtract that value from loaded measurement and that's the target for when chains are connected).

I know when it's "off" now just by how it sits and tows. If my truck and trailer doesn't feel like they're sinking and rising as one more-or-less solidly connected unit then I just turn the nut up a little and carry on. Both the husky and anderson end up at the same measurement with the tape, but the anderson still tows better which I can only think is because of the use of static tension (chains) vs spring tension (trunion bars).

By the end of last season though I was just setting it to 5 or 6 threads depending on carrying fresh water or not. But I had to remove one link in my setup as well.

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

I can see that. For me I know my trailer as I've towed with it for years now, and also just double checked it the first time with tape measure (forget the exact idea there, think its something like half the loaded weight should go back onto the front. So measure front unloaded, measure front loaded, subtract the 2, divide by 2; subtract that value from loaded measurement and that's the target for when chains are connected).

I know when it's "off" now just by how it sits and tows. If my truck and trailer doesn't feel like they're sinking and rising as one more-or-less solidly connected unit then I just turn the nut up a little and carry on. Both the husky and anderson end up at the same measurement with the tape, but the anderson still tows better which I can only think is because of the use of static tension (chains) vs spring tension (trunion bars).

By the end of last season though I was just setting it to 5 or 6 threads depending on carrying fresh water or not. But I had to remove one link in my setup as well.

Yeah, I get that. But I don't think this dude has been towing with this setup for years.

There's also the data scientist in me that just wants to nerd out with the numbers.

 

[Builderdude]

I had the husky centerline before switching last year to the Anderson. IMHO you don't need to spend any real time on a scale or worrying about it, I certainly didn't. I did get it pretty much level and that's all I need. If you feel you're porpoising too much yet, just stop and take 5 seconds to turn the nut in one more thread. That's the beauty of the system, there is no permanent "set position", every time you hook up you can make adjustments as needed depending on your load (fresh water on board etc).

Trying to make recommendations based on other users descriptions is hard to do. In my case I was trying to reduce vertical bounce in my truck suspension. I tried several times with the husky but it was never as good as the anderson is.

My theory is because the anderson uses chains, whereas the other systems use trunion bars which are (in effect) a second "spring" that can induce or react to other suspension travel in the rear of the truck, and so now you have 2 suspension systems flexing instead of just the truck coils. With the anderson, the hitch itself no longer flexes due to the use of chains, only the coils in the truck flex. This made a huge difference and is better so far than anything else I've tried, including a combination of husky + sumo springs (sumo springs didn't make a difference for my issue, it just looked better visibly but didn't feel better towing)

The only thing I would add, look out for the chains as they travel through the square tubing containing the thread/bolt. Sometimes my chain end gets jammed against the end of the tubing so the bolt feels tight as the "lead" of the chain is wedged in/against the tubing, but the trailer end of the chain is actually quite slack (not visibly) because the bolt is tightened against the beginning of the chain and not the end. Had two sketchy pulls before I figured that out!

Just so you have something to compare to. I have 20 inch michelin defender tires aired up quite high while towing, and also did the hellwig swaybar which I keep on stiffest setting. I wasn't fighting a "shimmy" or horizontal movement so much as a vertical up/down bounce which finally cleared up with the Anderson.

Edit: Also, the amount of turns of the nuts (like you asked for) can't be copied from trailer to trailer, you need to find your own amount of turns. It's dependent on the distance of your coupler to the end of the frame brackets, as well as how heavy your tongue is etc. What works me for me probably won't work for you.

I was interested in his settings based on the what he went thru to get it dialed in. I dont plan on copying that , but 4 turns is alot different then 2 1/2" so understanding what others ended up with could be helpful. You are right on the distance of the frame brackets, etc but would assume most are generally close if they are set up per directions with the same number of links. The "just get it level" doesnt work with timbrens since I will always be basically level with a load on the back. We are planning to stop at a scale on the way out tomorrow so we will see how much is transferred. Were you able to slide the hitch into the receiver to the second hole or did you use the first pin hole?

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

You are right on the distance of the frame brackets, etc but would assume most are generally close if they are set up per directions with the same number of links.

I can tell you the distance between the bottom bolt for the frame bracket and the center of the coupler in mine (red line in picture). It was right at 29".

Were you able to slide the hitch into the receiver to the second hole or did you use the first pin hole?

I tried both. Our dealer originally installed it using the first hole. This was kind of nice because I could drop my tailgate. But, it felt pretty unstable. Checking weights at the scales, we were at about 9% tongue weight. Just moving it in to the second hole put us closer to 11% tongue weight and felt a bit better.

 

[silver billet]

I was interested in his settings based on the what he went thru to get it dialed in. I dont plan on copying that , but 4 turns is alot different then 2 1/2" so understanding what others ended up with could be helpful. You are right on the distance of the frame brackets, etc but would assume most are generally close if they are set up per directions with the same number of links. The "just get it level" doesnt work with timbrens since I will always be basically level with a load on the back. We are planning to stop at a scale on the way out tomorrow so we will see how much is transferred. Were you able to slide the hitch into the receiver to the second hole or did you use the first pin hole?

From what I understand most people aim for between 4 to 6 threads. Any more than 6 and you might run out of socket (like I did) and need to pull off a link.

I use the second pin hole, less hanging out and more support/structure all around that way.

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

Outside of Hickory, NC:





Not much to do in the area, so spent our time grilling, drinking moonshine, and getting a couple projects finished.

Added an external, waterproof port to plug the Starlink in. The Starlink router is now mounted in the battery bay with an added outlet. I added six temperature sensors and a WiFi gateway with alerts set up to monitor temps around the rig, including where the router is mounted. We're now able to simply unplug and stow the dish, and roll. I also need to get the same done for our booster.







Also added an outlet under our dinette for plugging in laptops that has two type-c chargers for our phones. Was getting annoying running extension cords across the space and having to unplug when we needed up.



Added some 12v charging ports around the camper so we can use a small inverter to make coffee and watch a little TV when we're not on shore power.



Also added an Oxygenics shower head, paper towel holder for the outdoor kitchen, push-button latches for the propane cover, and some fittings so we can run our generator directly from the quick connect propane port on the camper.

 

[Builderdude]

I can tell you the distance between the bottom bolt for the frame bracket and the center of the coupler in mine (red line in picture). It was right at 29".
View attachment 154135

I tried both. Our dealer originally installed it using the first hole. This was kind of nice because I could drop my tailgate. But, it felt pretty unstable. Checking weights at the scales, we were at about 9% tongue weight. Just moving it in to the second hole put us closer to 11% tongue weight and felt a bit better.

I appreciate both you and Silver Billet's input. Started with 7 threads showing and weighed at 3400 front and 3600 back. which was about where I was with the recurve. Cranked it another 1/2 turn before we headed out and it towed well at 63-65 in 10mph winds. Not sure if it is the hitch, the e-rated tires, or both, but it was far from a "white knuckle" event. Thanks again.

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

Harvest Host stay at The Plant in Pittsboro, NC:







This is one of our new favorite Harvest Host stops. Good little food truck there and a couple places with excellent drinks.

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

We stopped in Raleigh for a couple weeks to visit family. We stayed at the NC state fairgrounds campground. Got a couple good hikes in and a few more projects knocked out.

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

Harvest Host stop at an RV wash north of Richmond, VA. Got the whole rig washed. Also got to play around with the LED light strips I installed under the trailer.

 

[PurpleRT]

I’m sure you mentioned it before but what size camper is that?


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[SnowBlaZR2]

I’m sure you mentioned it before but what size camper is that?


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26' and 7,500 lbs.

 

[PurpleRT]

Thanks I’m just trying to get a visual for a possible future distant purchase. Seems most rv dealers like to take angled pictures and not a sideview so I can get a idea what size would be a good option. Of course I can go see one in person but I’m not a buyer right now so I rather not deal with sales.


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[Trooper4]

Thanks I’m just trying to get a visual for a possible future distant purchase. Seems most rv dealers like to take angled pictures and not a sideview so I can get a idea what size would be a good option. Of course I can go see one in person but I’m not a buyer right now so I rather not deal with sales.


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There are multiple RV websites that can give pretty good info . If you are looking for a bumper-pull, ask others what they are pulling, but remember, if you are a first timer, keep the length down until you have experience. I started with a 23, and went up to a 34, after many thousands of miles though.

 

[PurpleRT]

There are multiple RV websites that can give pretty good info . If you are looking for a bumper-pull, ask others what they are pulling, but remember, if you are a first timer, keep the length down until you have experience. I started with a 23, and went up to a 34, after many thousands of miles though.

It wouldn’t be anywhere over 25’ I wouldn’t need anything longer then that. 21-25’ seems like the sweet spot without becoming to much of a hassle to move when the time comes. A 19’ is just seems like a tad bit to small and from my research lack the floor plan and some features I would like. Ive been on and off on buying one for a few years and seems some manufacturers either include tongue length or don’t when it comes to specs so that adds to some confusion. I would be new to travel trailers but i’ve towed equipment from time to time so I have an idea on whats to much for my needs.


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[SnowBlaZR2]

Iseems some manufacturers either include tongue length or don’t when it comes to specs so that adds to some confusion.

For reference, 26' for ours is from the coupler to the bumper.

This is our floorplan:

 

[Trooper4]

It wouldn’t be anywhere over 25’ I wouldn’t need anything longer then that. 21-25’ seems like the sweet spot without becoming to much of a hassle to move when the time comes. A 19’ is just seems like a tad bit to small and from my research lack the floor plan and some features I would like. Ive been on and off on buying one for a few years and seems some manufacturers either include tongue length or don’t when it comes to specs so that adds to some confusion. I would be new to travel trailers but i’ve towed equipment from time to time so I have an idea on whats to much for my needs.


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Good luck and stay safe