Throttle controllers...

[Aseras]

So, I am more convinced than ever that the Banks Pedal Monster system is the one to get. I took the RAM for a ride last night after it sat for a few days. Even with the Pedal Commander off idle delays returned and I had at least three occasions of mid corner dead pedal. And as if to really rub it in, after a stop at Wawa it started doing the first gear throttle hang up thing. These are all the exact same things it was doing stock

You probably have an issue stock then. These controllers only change the smoothing and delay in the stock pedal. If the problems occur stock besides lag, they aren't going to fix it. They do not modify anything else, or know what gear you are in or anything. Check your plugs and reseat everything very well and make sure when you lock the latch that it closes completely.

 

[Bluesurf]

Installed the Banks Pedal Monster. Seems to work well. I had a Sprint Booster in the past, so it works the same as far as increased pedal response. I do like the bluetooth interface/app rather than the wired fob the SB had. The fail-safe feature is the main reason I opted for this one.

Did you encounter any dangerous situations with the SB?

 

[jfcody3962]

Did you encounter any dangerous situations with the SB?

No, just decided I didn't want any reliability or safety issues and returned it.

 

[PowerJrod]

Installed the Banks Pedal Monster. Seems to work well. I had a Sprint Booster in the past, so it works the same as far as increased pedal response. I do like the bluetooth interface/app rather than the wired fob the SB had. The fail-safe feature is the main reason I opted for this one.

Nice! Ordering mine next week. The safety features are the same reasons why I want one too. Have you decided on a mode/level you like for every day regular driving?

 

[TBMSport]

You probably have an issue stock then. These controllers only change the smoothing and delay in the stock pedal. If the problems occur stock besides lag, they aren't going to fix it. They do not modify anything else, or know what gear you are in or anything. Check your plugs and reseat everything very well and make sure when you lock the latch that it closes completely.

Oh this truck has a mess of issues. Water sprayed through the moonroof through the car wash today. I see why it sat on the lot for 8 months. Anyhoo, I ended up pulling/returning the Pedal Commander and a crazy thing happened. The truck started driving relatively normally. The irritating engine knock upon start up has intermittently returned, *sigh*. But at any rate, I'm going to see if the driveability stays consistent before I add the Pedal Monster in. In the meantime, I'm going to live vicariously through JFCody and PowerJrod.

 

[PowerJrod]

Oh this truck has a mess of issues. Water sprayed through the moonroof through the car wash today. I see why it sat on the lot for 8 months. Anyhoo, I ended up pulling/returning the Pedal Commander and a crazy thing happened. The truck started driving relatively normally. The irritating engine knock upon start up has intermittently returned, *sigh*. But at any rate, I'm going to see if the driveability stays consistent before I add the Pedal Monster in. In the meantime, I'm going to live vicariously through JFCody and PowerJrod.

Engine knock? Have you taken it into the service center yet? That's too bad.. especially when you have the top of line model..smh. We'll keep people updated on the Pedal Monster though!

 

[TBMSport]

Engine knock? Have you taken it into the service center yet? That's too bad.. especially when you have the top of line model..smh. We'll keep people updated on the Pedal Monster though!

I did. Got a reprogram, but then I heard it knock again after a day time drive. Quite annoying as I use premium.

 

[PowerJrod]

I did. Got a reprogram, but then I heard it knock again after a day time drive. Quite annoying as I use premium.

Wonder if it's not a ECU related problem then. I'd take it back in, leave it there and ask for a call when the problem is fixed.

 

[PowerJrod]

I did. Got a reprogram, but then I heard it knock again after a day time drive. Quite annoying as I use premium.

The other question is...where have you been getting your gas at? Is it top tier? If not...try a top tier like Chevron, Arco, Mobil, etc in 89 octane and see if that helps after a couple weeks.

 

[jfcody3962]

Update on the pedal monster: One of the behaviors of the "dead pedal or sponge pedal" is when you initially press the gas to get moving from a stop. There is a delay before the engine responds to the throttle....prob a 1/2 second or so. That is what I would like these throttle commanders/boosters to fix, but unfortunately they do not. They can't by design. All these things do is command *more* throttle than you are actually requesting with the pedal. This is why I returned the sprint booster I had in the past. The pedal monster is really no better in fixing this issue. If you could train yourself (off the line) to briefly stab the gas pedal and immediately let off you could accomplish the same end result. I do like having more throttle response while driving/moving, so that is a positive. In summary- these throttle boosters do improve the driving experience, but I am not sure they are worth 300.00 for what they are actually doing. I'll likely keep this pedal monster because I like the phone app/interface and the fail proof safety feature. I do wish it would fix the deal pedal off the line issue, but the only way to fix that is to reprogram the truck's ECU.

 

[VaderRebel]

Have had the JMS Pedalmax for a few months now and I am extremely impressed with the functionality and quality of parts. I'm not a fan of the digital pre-set style units. I find the simple small dial of the Pedalmax to be the perfect blend of functional and invisible. I didn't want a unit I had to have eyes on to adjust. The Pedalmax is installation bliss and can go anywhere in the driver's area. Because of the dial design, it's adjustments are super sensitive compared to some of the digital solutions.

I truly feel in control of my truck now and it's 100% more enjoyable than ever.

 

[PowerJrod]

Update on the pedal monster: One of the behaviors of the "dead pedal or sponge pedal" is when you initially press the gas to get moving from a stop. There is a delay before the engine responds to the throttle....prob a 1/2 second or so. That is what I would like these throttle commanders/boosters to fix, but unfortunately they do not. They can't by design. All these things do is command *more* throttle than you are actually requesting with the pedal. This is why I returned the sprint booster I had in the past. The pedal monster is really no better in fixing this issue. If you could train yourself (off the line) to briefly stab the gas pedal and immediately let off you could accomplish the same end result. I do like having more throttle response while driving/moving, so that is a positive. In summary- these throttle boosters do improve the driving experience, but I am not sure they are worth 300.00 for what they are actually doing. I'll likely keep this pedal monster because I like the phone app/interface and the fail proof safety feature. I do wish it would fix the deal pedal off the line issue, but the only way to fix that is to reprogram the truck's ECU.

So the Pedal Monster really hasn't helped with the throttle response? From what I understand..the delay/lag is due to the low/slow voltage that transmits from the pedal to the throttle body itself. The controller is suppose to increase that voltage output which basically pumps the signal to the throttle body quicker. Making me start to second guess buying the pedal monster lol.

 

[PowerJrod]

Have had the JMS Pedalmax for a few months now and I am extremely impressed with the functionality and quality of parts. I'm not a fan of the digital pre-set style units. I find the simple small dial of the Pedalmax to be the perfect blend of functional and invisible. I didn't want a unit I had to have eyes on to adjust. The Pedalmax is installation bliss and can go anywhere in the driver's area. Because of the dial design, it's adjustments are super sensitive compared to some of the digital solutions.

I truly feel in control of my truck now and it's 100% more enjoyable than ever.

I originally wanted the JMS for that reason too...the physical dial. But I had a chat with their support office and they advised me that If the unit fails...I'd end up with a dead pedal and would have to unplug the unit in order for the pedal to work. Pedal Monster is the only one on the market that has the failsafe design which prevents having to unplug the unit if it fails. But I have to ask...how much better is the throttle response honestly with the JMS?

 

[jfcody3962]

So the Pedal Monster really hasn't helped with the throttle response? From what I understand..the delay/lag is due to the low/slow voltage that transmits from the pedal to the throttle body itself. The controller is suppose to increase that voltage output which basically pumps the signal to the throttle body quicker. Making me start to second guess buying the pedal monster lol.

It does make the truck feel more responsive in most situations, just not right off the line.
I'm not an expert, but I seriously doubt that is correct above (no offense). The computer/ECU is what controls the throttle body, not the pedal itself. The pedal assembly is just a rheostat resistance switch, just like a dimmer switch on a light bulb. It simply tells the computer how hard you are pushing on the pedal. The pedal monster is just intercepting that signal and "boosting it". It can't send the signal to the computer any faster, or tell the computer to respond quicker.

 

[PowerJrod]

It does make the truck feel more responsive in most situations, just not right off the line.
I'm not an expert, but I seriously doubt that is correct above (no offense). The computer/ECU is what controls the throttle body, not the pedal itself. The pedal assembly is just a rheostat resistance switch, just like a dimmer switch on a light bulb. It simply tells the computer how hard you are pushing on the pedal. The pedal monster is just intercepting that signal and "boosting it". It can't send the signal to the computer any faster, or tell the computer to respond quicker.

That's all true but without pressing the pedal...it's not going to tell the ECU anything. There's a video on YouTube I watched regarding the Power Controller by DigiPower that showed the voltage increase based on the setting selected. Stock was (approximately) 2 volts, city was 2.25, sport was 2.6, track was 2.89 or something like that. So it does support my earlier post, it's just the signal isn't faster...but you're also correct regarding the ECU. So it's a mix of both.

 

[TBMSport]

The other question is...where have you been getting your gas at? Is it top tier? If not...try a top tier like Chevron, Arco, Mobil, etc in 89 octane and see if that helps after a couple weeks.

I have put premium in this truck since I burned out the original crap they put in new. Costco or Sunoco. It ran like crap from day one, presumably from the gas sitting it it so long mixed with the new gas they topped it off with. But the knocking was originally initially intermittent. Every once in a while upon start up and even on shut down. But in the past week it has gone to knocking under throttle when cold to always knocking (sounding like an ecodiesel) when in ECO mode and under load; even to the point of feeling serious vibrations through the truck when it's engaged and then intermittent sudden slamming sensations when it comes out of eco mode. The lurching from standstill during auto stop-start varies from sometimes perfectly smooth to well, lurching. And then there's the rapid, clunky downshifts that will vary from one stop sign/traffic light to the next. And let's not forget the delayed throttle surge and throttle hang up in first gear that has returned.

I dropped it off the dealer (AGAIN) for the warped RAMbox, sunroom that leaks through the car wash, and the new knocking issue. Sadly, they told me the knocking and intermittent slamming sensation is a common complaint. We are almost on first name basis there, but it is starting to get annoying. The truck mostly sits in the driveway, so I am spending more money on gas doing a 4 way drive, driving my RAM there and topping off their loaner. But each time I drop it off, they always look up if any updates have come out and let me know.

I am confident it is a tuning issue and may FCA doesn't have enough engineers able to test drive these things. I could EASILY tune the issue out myself as I've done if with GM vehicles for years, but, well I shouldn't have to, not to mention my warranty will be voided fixing their ****-poor calibrations. So, we dance the dance and await either a trans or engine self destructing and then Lemon Law.

For the LIFE of me I can't understand how these trucks have gotten such initial quality awards. I absolutely slammed Ram when I got my new owner survey (which itself was flawed, skipping questions and sections when I would go BACK and then NEXT again). I am ITCHING to get my JD Powers survey at this point

 

[TBMSport]

That's all true but without pressing the pedal...it's not going to tell the ECU anything. There's a video on YouTube I watched regarding the Power Controller by DigiPower that showed the voltage increase based on the setting selected. Stock was (approximately) 2 volts, city was 2.25, sport was 2.6, track was 2.89 or something like that. So it does support my earlier post, it's just the signal isn't faster...but you're also correct regarding the ECU. So it's a mix of both.

This is very disappointing to hear. I haven't put mine in yet as the engine knocking issue came up and I knew I would be taking it in for service. I too am inclined to believe that the pedal-whatever-you-use should be increasing the voltage output in the same elapsed time interval and should thus begin acceleration of the truck sooner (and theoretically, slightly quicker in elapsed time as the throttle is opening more during the RPM sweeps and should be letting more air in which leads to more spark, fuel, yada). But apparently, the delay in execution is either another essential sensor's delayed input or ECU processing. But what's constantly nagging me is that there are countless other RAM owners who are claiming to experience NONE of these symptoms. Which is leading me to think that think it must be a sensor issue. Obviously the computers and programs are the same across the board. But like any system, the output/results are only as good as the input/sensors. And as throttle resets always provide an all too brief fix and changing my pedal improved things slightly, I am left to conclude that the next logical variable-defective part is the throttle body. And it must be a defectively calibrated sensor as no CELs are coming on (i.e. it sends signals within range, but not necessarily accurate signals).

I noticed that several interesting features of our trucks. Coming from a GM LS background I recall when the advent of the drive by wire hit, guys had issues tuning for smooth throttle openings for multiple reasons; one of which is the drive-by-wire throttle body incorporated several components and functions that the older drive-by-cable throttle bodies required several different components such as idle-air-control valve and throttle position sensor follower. I noticed that the specific throttle body for our truck (P/N 53034251AD; 2012-present) is a less-expensive variety than the older truck throttle bodies 05-2012), but, apparently, also serviceable. As anything with an potentiometer (DBW throttle bodies, fuel sensors, throttle pedals, radio knobs, etc.) are now considered "consumable" or wear items (due to the incorporated sensors), I think this should not be overlooked.


Now that I've learned the throttle-whatevers-are not helping any of us afflicted with the persistent throttle delay, my next step is to get a replacement TB and see if that makes a difference. Hopefully, it will be a perfect unit and may indicate a possibly defective IAC valve in mine/ours.

 

[PowerJrod]

I have put premium in this truck since I burned out the original crap they put in new. Costco or Sunoco. It ran like crap from day one, presumably from the gas sitting it it so long mixed with the new gas they topped it off with. But the knocking was originally initially intermittent. Every once in a while upon start up and even on shut down. But in the past week it has gone to knocking under throttle when cold to always knocking (sounding like an ecodiesel) when in ECO mode and under load; even to the point of feeling serious vibrations through the truck when it's engaged and then intermittent sudden slamming sensations when it comes out of eco mode. The lurching from standstill during auto stop-start varies from sometimes perfectly smooth to well, lurching. And then there's the rapid, clunky downshifts that will vary from one stop sign/traffic light to the next. And let's not forget the delayed throttle surge and throttle hang up in first gear that has returned.

I dropped it off the dealer (AGAIN) for the warped RAMbox, sunroom that leaks through the car wash, and the new knocking issue. Sadly, they told me the knocking and intermittent slamming sensation is a common complaint. We are almost on first name basis there, but it is starting to get annoying. The truck mostly sits in the driveway, so I am spending more money on gas doing a 4 way drive, driving my RAM there and topping off their loaner. But each time I drop it off, they always look up if any updates have come out and let me know.

I am confident it is a tuning issue and may FCA doesn't have enough engineers able to test drive these things. I could EASILY tune the issue out myself as I've done if with GM vehicles for years, but, well I shouldn't have to, not to mention my warranty will be voided fixing their ****-poor calibrations. So, we dance the dance and await either a trans or engine self destructing and then Lemon Law.

For the LIFE of me I can't understand how these trucks have gotten such initial quality awards. I absolutely slammed Ram when I got my new owner survey (which itself was flawed, skipping questions and sections when I would go BACK and then NEXT again). I am ITCHING to get my JD Powers survey at this point

That's too bad, I'm sorry man. I personally know a dozen people that have these new Rams and not one (at least up here) has any issues except for needing a couple updates. I'd go lemon law and try to get a replacement Ram.

 

[PowerJrod]

This is very disappointing to hear. I haven't put mine in yet as the engine knocking issue came up and I knew I would be taking it in for service. I too am inclined to believe that the pedal-whatever-you-use should be increasing the voltage output in the same elapsed time interval and should thus begin acceleration of the truck sooner (and theoretically, slightly quicker in elapsed time as the throttle is opening more during the RPM sweeps and should be letting more air in which leads to more spark, fuel, yada). But apparently, the delay in execution is either another essential sensor's delayed input or ECU processing. But what's constantly nagging me is that there are countless other RAM owners who are claiming to experience NONE of these symptoms. Which is leading me to think that think it must be a sensor issue. Obviously the computers and programs are the same across the board. But like any system, the output/results are only as good as the input/sensors. And as throttle resets always provide an all too brief fix and changing my pedal improved things slightly, I am left to conclude that the next logical variable-defective part is the throttle body. And it must be a defectively calibrated sensor as no CELs are coming on (i.e. it sends signals within range, but not necessarily accurate signals).

I noticed that several interesting features of our trucks. Coming from a GM LS background I recall when the advent of the drive by wire hit, guys had issues tuning for smooth throttle openings for multiple reasons; one of which is the drive-by-wire throttle body incorporated several components and functions that the older drive-by-cable throttle bodies required several different components such as idle-air-control valve and throttle position sensor follower. I noticed that the specific throttle body for our truck (P/N 53034251AD; 2012-present) is a less-expensive variety than the older truck throttle bodies 05-2012), but, apparently, also serviceable. As anything with an potentiometer (DBW throttle bodies, fuel sensors, throttle pedals, radio knobs, etc.) are now considered "consumable" or wear items (due to the incorporated sensors), I think this should not be overlooked.
View attachment 70983 View attachment 70984

Now that I've learned the throttle-whatevers-are not helping any of us afflicted with the persistent throttle delay, my next step is to get a replacement TB and see if that makes a difference. Hopefully, it will be a perfect unit and may indicate a possibly defective IAC valve in mine/ours.

I think the only way that the throttle body itself is causing the delay/issue would be to inspect it and see if it's dirty/clogged plus check to see if the module opens without anything restricting it...like if it gets stuck for a moment or if you can manually opening it smoothly (if that makes sense) there's still the issue of the ECU not sending the signal quickly to the throttle body too. I'm ordering my Pedal Monster today...almost went with the JMS since it has a analog control....but it doesn't have any way to fine tune the power output to the throttle body...so Monster it is! It'll be an unbiased thing for me since I've never used a throttle Controller before.

 

[PowerJrod]

So I had a couple questions for Banks regarding the pedal monster so I emailed Banks....no response after a week. I tried calling them twice...no one picked up the phone. Then I realized they're in CA...which explains it. So NOPE. Just ordered a JMS PedalMax. Should hopefully be here by the end of Friday. Almost went with DigiPower but they don't have a controller for the new RAMs yet.