Tailgate light bar

[davidn0021]

It doesn't matter if you are using the 18" or 60" bars. It also doesn't matter which brand. It's a problem for any of the LED lightbars that use the brake/turn signal wire from the trailer harness.

To get the turn signals more in sync, you need to use the turn signal wire directly from the tail light. The throuble is, the turn signal and brake signal use separate wires for the new Ram tail lights. So you have to combine the signals with a module before sending it to the ightbar. Otherwise you will only get the turn signal, but no brake lights.

See my post earlier with the video for more details.

No, yours is much more in sync than what I'm seeing. It flashes 3 or 4 times, then skips a flash. And the timing is completely off.

 

[Ram Man 727]

No, yours is much more in sync than what I'm seeing. It flashes 3 or 4 times, then skips a flash. And the timing is completely off.

Did you do cut the red wire coming out of the Putco module and connect to + (black wire on the harness)? Not sure if this would make the difference or not. Unfortunately I'm still waiting for putco to replace my bar so I can install it.. again..

 

[davidn0021]

Did you do cut the red wire coming out of the Putco module and connect to + (black wire on the harness)? Not sure if this would make the difference or not. Unfortunately I'm still waiting for putco to replace my bar so I can install it.. again..

I was waiting for Putco to call me back regarding that specifically. If not, I'll go the TaT route as Gitter suggested. It's only $30 for a pair so not like it's going to break the bank.

 

[Ram Man 727]

I was waiting for Putco to call me back regarding that specifically. If not, I'll go the TaT route as Gitter suggested. It's only $30 for a pair so not like it's going to break the bank.

Let us know what they say.. I will be one step ahead then when I finally get mine

 

[davidn0021]

Let us know what they say.. I will be one step ahead then when I finally get mine

Just got off the line with them and no need to cut that red wire as those instructions are for the Fords. And Gitter's solution is probably the only solution to get the blade more in sync with the tail lights and not lose break light functionality. They did mention that they're going to be coming out with a new blade specifically to tap into the tails for the turns, which I would imagine would just include a lot of the same modules (TaT) that Gitter used and I've already ordered.

 

[SpeedyV]

They did mention that they're going to be coming out with a new blade specifically to tap into the tails for the turns...

Reeeeeeeaaaaaaaaallllllyyyyyyyy...

 

[Gitter]

Just got off the line with them and no need to cut that red wire as those instructions are for the Fords. And Gitter's solution is probably the only solution to get the blade more in sync with the tail lights and not lose break light functionality. They did mention that they're going to be coming out with a new blade specifically to tap into the tails for the turns, which I would imagine would just include a lot of the same modules (TaT) that Gitter used and I've already ordered.

That would be great if they come out with a easy way to use signals directly from the tail lights!

Although it is very easy to tap into the wires and add the TaT modules, I would have liked a solution that is easy to add or remove and (most important), I don't want the dealer to have any reason to say an electrical problem with eTorque was my fault because I soldered wires to the tail lights. Lol

 

[davidn0021]

That would be great if they come out with a easy way to use signals directly from the tail lights!

Although it is very easy to tap into the wires and add the TaT modules, I would have liked a solution that is easy to add or remove and (most important), I don't want the dealer to have any reason to say an electrical problem with eTorque was my fault because I soldered wires to the tail lights. Lol

You didn't use the Scotchloks they provided to splice those wires? That's what I'm planning on doing.

 

[Gitter]

You didn't use the Scotchloks they provided to splice those wires? That's what I'm planning on doing.

No, I just soldered then shrink-wrapped the wires before wrapping the bundles with electrical tape.

 

[davidn0021]

No, I just soldered then shrink-wrapped the wires before wrapping the bundles with electrical tape.

Question, did you tap just the turn signals first or did you have to tap both turn and brakes? Wouldn't the brakes on the Putco get its signal direct from the harness? I guess now that I think about it, not sure why you would need to tap both the turn and the brakes...?

 

[Gitter]

Question, did you tap just the turn signals first or did you have to tap both turn and brakes? Wouldn't the brakes on the Putco get its signal direct from the harness? I guess now that I think about it, not sure why you would need to tap both the turn and the brakes...?

Like most people who tried this, I just have the turn signals first but then the brake light (on the lightbar) would not activate...only the turn signal.

Many vehicles (and all trailers that I know of) have a single wire that has both the turn signal and brake signal going to the tail light. You see that with all trailer harnesses too. Instead, Ram chose to run separate wires for the turn signal and brake lights into the LED tail lights. Those separate signals need to combine in a single wire (well, 2 wires total, but one per side) for the lightbars to work as designed.

Instead of doing this, the easier way is to get that combined brake + turn signal from the trailer harness...and then live with the slight delay.

 

[davidn0021]

Like most people who tried this, I just have the turn signals first but then the brake light (on the lightbar) would not activate...only the turn signal.

Many vehicles (and all trailers that I know of) have a single wire that has both the turn signal and brake signal going to the tail light. You see that with all trailer harnesses too. Instead, Ram chose to run separate wires for the turn signal and brake lights into the LED tail lights. Those separate signals need to combine in a single wire (well, 2 wires total, but one per side) for the lightbars to work as designed.

Instead of doing this, the easier way is to get that combined brake + turn signal from the trailer harness...and then live with the slight delay.

Are you saying that if I just tap the turns and tap the turns for the lightbar, then I'd lose brakes on the lightbar? Because the lightbar only has one input wire for both turns and brake?

 

[Gitter]

Are you saying that if I just tap the turns and tap the turns for the lightbar, then I'd lose brakes on the lightbar? Because the lightbar only has one input wire for both turns and brake?

Yes.

You need to tap into both the turn signal wire AND the brake signal wire, then combine both with the Tail as Turn module that I have mentioned in earlier posts in this thread. That TaT module will output both signals in a single wire that goes to the lightbar.

 

[davidn0021]

Yes.

You need to tap into both the turn signal wire AND the brake signal wire, then combine both with the Tail as Turn module that I have mentioned in earlier posts in this thread. That TaT module will output both signals in a single wire that goes to the lightbar.

Ok perfect, I have those modules and will probably install sometime this week. What awg did you use to wire? I believe the harness wires are 16awg or 18awg but the wires and butt connectors on the TaT modules are 22awg...

 

[Gitter]

Ok perfect, I have those modules and will probably install sometime this week. What awg did you use to wire? I believe the harness wires are 16awg or 18awg but the wires and butt connectors on the TaT modules are 22awg...

I took the TaT output and soldered/shrink wrapped the connection to the trailer harness extension wire (brake/turn combo) which it looks like it's 16 or 18awg. I then soldered the input wires for the TaT directly to the tail light wires (brake and turn signal wires), heat shrinked them individually, and then used plenty of electrical tape to wrap the bundles wires (and the TaT Modules) all together.

 

[Rammin BtoS AF]

I used clips, that way if I need to get to that camera access I can pop the light bar off for access to that panel.

Do you have a picture of how you dealt with the backup Camera wires?

 

[busa2009]

Got mine done tonight, thanks for the help Jamie.howlett! I used the clips and spaced them away from the plastic with 4 small washers and ran 2 black zip ties in 2 spots where there was no lights for added hold

could you do close up shots of your install of the blade how it sits relative to the spare tire access and the camera patch

 

[Code2medic]

That would be great if they come out with a easy way to use signals directly from the tail lights!

Although it is very easy to tap into the wires and add the TaT modules, I would have liked a solution that is easy to add or remove and (most important), I don't want the dealer to have any reason to say an electrical problem with eTorque was my fault because I soldered wires to the tail lights. Lol

Well that’s simple then rather then using silly tapes and electrical tape like the majority... do it the right way tap the wires using 18g wire connected to a 2 pin Deutsch connector (same connectors used in every car out there) sealed with proper heat shrink with the water proofing and then Tesa tape it to match the factory harness.
When needed unplug connector remove and reinstall as you please. The majority would never even notice it that way as it would look factory same tape same connectors.

I read all these odes and I’m with the few who refuse to put one on because of it being out of sync not to mention the lack of common sense of the ones making them.... how hard it is to add separate wires correctly to get the full function and having it work properly.

rad hot black ground white reverse and then one for each turn signal for the cost of the putco youd think they would have done their homework.... a case of just getting it out there to appease the people vs quality

 

[davidn0021]

Well that’s simple then rather then using silly tapes and electrical tape like the majority... do it the right way tap the wires using 18g wire connected to a 2 pin Deutsch connector (same connectors used in every car out there) sealed with proper heat shrink with the water proofing and then Tesa tape it to match the factory harness.
When needed unplug connector remove and reinstall as you please. The majority would never even notice it that way as it would look factory same tape same connectors.

I read all these odes and I’m with the few who refuse to put one on because of it being out of sync not to mention the lack of common sense of the ones making them.... how hard it is to add separate wires correctly to get the full function and having it work properly.

rad hot black ground white reverse and then one for each turn signal for the cost of the putco youd think they would have done their homework.... a case of just getting it out there to appease the people vs quality

To be fair, I believe this issue only happens if you have the LED tail lights. I could be wrong, but I have yet to install the TaT modules (work is kicking my ***, atm).

 

[Code2medic]

To be fair, I believe this issue only happens if you have the LED tail lights. I could be wrong, but I have yet to install the TaT modules (work is kicking my ***, atm).

I disagree has nothing to do with the truck it has to do with as other have said the 4 pin connection on the led bar itself they are going to have to come out with one with a small controller box so the bar isn’t trying to determine what function is happening on a wire causing the delay. Not different then LeD strips used in Xmas shows in clubs bars where ever. There is a control make sure everything is getting the right order