I'm curious as well. I know I would never see it, but knowing it is delayed is what has kept me from buying one.
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Tailgate light bar
- Thread starter Hahny
- Start date
dts828
Ram Guru
Just throwing this out there. The delay is literally a 1/4 second on the the opt7. Do you really think anyone behind you notices, you sure can't from the drivers seat. 
I get lots of compliments on the light bar from folks at work when they see me pulling out. Not one person has noticed the delay
One the plus side I really like how the amber from the tailgate bar matches the amber from turn signals.
Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
I get lots of compliments on the light bar from folks at work when they see me pulling out. Not one person has noticed the delay
One the plus side I really like how the amber from the tailgate bar matches the amber from turn signals.
Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
I like hearing that last part (about the color). But yes, every video makes it obvious...but I’m referring to the initial delay when you first turn on a turn signal, not the ongoing (and nearly unnoticeable) delay.Just throwing this out there. The delay is literally a 1/4 second on the the opt7. Do you really think anyone behind you notices, you sure can't from the drivers seat.
I get lots of compliments on the light bar from folks at work when they see me pulling out. Not one person has noticed the delay
One the plus side I really like how the amber from the tailgate bar matches the amber from turn signals.
Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
dts828
Ram Guru
I'm referring to the initial delay. Like I said probably 1/4 second. I believe it's exaggerated or perhaps the opt7 is less of a delay. I'll have to put a stop watch to it when I chance this weekend.
Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
What’s noticeable is that the tail lights flash once before the bar activates and “catches up”, at least in the videos I’ve seen. In every other function, it looks great.
Yep, that's what gets me. You have one flash before the light bar starts going with it.
I am running a Putco and wired directly into the brake light instead of the tow hitch, and have no delay at all. Mine is always synchronized. It would have been delayed to the tow hitch plug, but the delay disappeared when I went to brake lights.
Was it easy to do? Any “gotchas”?
Honestly a fair bit of gotchas... a decent bit of minimal voltage wires that would seem correct but ultimately not be, however if you take some time and have ok electrical skills its very doable. It took a few hours to get everything set up. 1 thing to mention however is I was unable to get the brake light function to work based on the signal coming out. Hard to explain, but I was able to get the turn signals, running lights, and backup light working all without delay.
GrayBeard
Member
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Appreciate the response, Sir. I mounted my Putco 60" last week. All of the posts on the forum really helped.
JCR1500
Active Member
You're tailgate when you open it clears the lightbar right? When I open mine it almost touches the center of those 2 humps on either end of the plastic. I think I'm going to mount mine where you have. I thought originally I would have to cut out those plastic humps.
Shives
Well-Known Member
Quick question... And I have a guess... Do you have factory LED tail lights? I'm guessing that the brake lights may have been a voltage tied into parking? Guessing some sort of voltage mux? and did you try to get brake signal from the trailer harness alone, and rest at tail lights?
my plan was to try and get the signals from the tail lights.. I see most of the wires go by the left side (driver side) wanted to make a harness to plug into. (take four pin and attach to truck, allowing it to be removed. adding for white reverse lights too) But, I was going to try that with the Putco 60"
I do have factory LED tail lights. I can't honestly remember the exact issue, but it had something to do with the putco bar signal converter. It wasn't just a brake wire, 2 turn wires, a running wire, and backup wire. Instead it had an inline converter that was taking signal and telling it what to do, and when i tried to tap into the brake wire at either the trailer harness or the tail lamps (tried both sides) then the voltage wasn't being converted right or the signal wire was being used for multiple purposes. I wish I could remember more of the exact problem, it was just one of those long nights where I was happy at the end that any of it worked!
timtlu
Active Member
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Yes... everything clears. It's really close. I can take up close pictures of different areas if you'd like.
Shives
Well-Known Member
So I went about putting my Putco bar on. I just like how the Putco bar actually looks like a solid bar of light, due to how many LEDs and how they mount them, Vs the Opt7. But, to each is own!!! They all look great guys! Good work!
Few things I will be doing, and noticed... Couple tips for some.
1. I found the measurement for spacers to be right, but have forgiveness.. yet you want to do at least 1/4 on the out sides.. or about 4mm. The inside spacers 1/2 or 8mm.
2. Kit comes with 4 plastic snap-in mounts (this alone was enough for me to purchase it, over the Opt7 metal ones I’ve seen) Now, I’ve put one on my buddies 2017 Danali using just the 3M tape, no drilling. The 3M tape is strong! Make sure you clean the body, and the mounts or light bar. Heat them up good! Stuff was like glue! ***Important note, the plastic mounts/clips MUST be on the inside of each edge on the light bar, DO NOT TRY AND CLIP OVER THE PLASTIC ENDS. They don’t fit, and this is where I learned how good the 3M tape really was. But, you own a RAM! See below
3. With the RAM, you won’t be anyplace close the the end, so no worries! Also, using 3 mounts is plenty enough! Like mentioned, make sure your bottom clip edge is just below the lip of the bumper. This will give an even look! But, measure from the top of the metal bed, to the top of your mark for the hole! in each location to make sure your in-line with each other. So, my middle mount was about dead center with the truck. Using a 1/2 spacer, I made my hole. Now I have 3 spots for my mounts. Drill small first, use a long drill bit so you don’t mark the bumper. Not a fan of self tapers, and seen them fall out. I used 10-32nd x 3/4 and 1 inch. Plus nuts with washers and blue Loctite to secure.
My tailgate was removed to make it easy!
4. When putting all back together I put the light-bar tucked down under the bumper, and wires ran under the bumper for now. So, it’s there but hidden. I installed my gate, made my wire connections for the camera and latch (remember, no tailgate latch when disconnected, so make sure your gate is down) and then reached down between it all with the gate shut and snapped the bar in to place. You’ve got a center line on Putco’s bar to make it easy to center.
5. Used the Curtis harness, middle pin is reverse. Box mounted under truck, with isolater pad under it (kills some vibrations, lessons the shock) ran the harness over to the 7-pin... made some changes to the Curtis harness to shorten it out with out cutting. Put it all together. I’ll take photos later to show.
Zip tie it all up. Did not take to long
what I notice.
4-ways or Hazards are not coming up Amber, they are red stop lights flashing. But it works. Brakes work good, reverse works good. My signals are working.. Have a very very small delay! I’m going to think about how and why to get rid of. Might not be able to. Was considering just hooking up signals to the tail lights, and then grabbing rest as it is for brakes and such.
Don’t for get to use dielectric grease. Keep a clean work area. Have fun!
again, This was just some **** to add to everyone’s help and information for others.
have to edit some photos and videos to bring down size and I’ll post.
Few things I will be doing, and noticed... Couple tips for some.
1. I found the measurement for spacers to be right, but have forgiveness.. yet you want to do at least 1/4 on the out sides.. or about 4mm. The inside spacers 1/2 or 8mm.
2. Kit comes with 4 plastic snap-in mounts (this alone was enough for me to purchase it, over the Opt7 metal ones I’ve seen) Now, I’ve put one on my buddies 2017 Danali using just the 3M tape, no drilling. The 3M tape is strong! Make sure you clean the body, and the mounts or light bar. Heat them up good! Stuff was like glue! ***Important note, the plastic mounts/clips MUST be on the inside of each edge on the light bar, DO NOT TRY AND CLIP OVER THE PLASTIC ENDS. They don’t fit, and this is where I learned how good the 3M tape really was. But, you own a RAM! See below
3. With the RAM, you won’t be anyplace close the the end, so no worries! Also, using 3 mounts is plenty enough! Like mentioned, make sure your bottom clip edge is just below the lip of the bumper. This will give an even look! But, measure from the top of the metal bed, to the top of your mark for the hole! in each location to make sure your in-line with each other. So, my middle mount was about dead center with the truck. Using a 1/2 spacer, I made my hole. Now I have 3 spots for my mounts. Drill small first, use a long drill bit so you don’t mark the bumper. Not a fan of self tapers, and seen them fall out. I used 10-32nd x 3/4 and 1 inch. Plus nuts with washers and blue Loctite to secure.
My tailgate was removed to make it easy!
4. When putting all back together I put the light-bar tucked down under the bumper, and wires ran under the bumper for now. So, it’s there but hidden. I installed my gate, made my wire connections for the camera and latch (remember, no tailgate latch when disconnected, so make sure your gate is down) and then reached down between it all with the gate shut and snapped the bar in to place. You’ve got a center line on Putco’s bar to make it easy to center.
5. Used the Curtis harness, middle pin is reverse. Box mounted under truck, with isolater pad under it (kills some vibrations, lessons the shock) ran the harness over to the 7-pin... made some changes to the Curtis harness to shorten it out with out cutting. Put it all together. I’ll take photos later to show.
Zip tie it all up. Did not take to long
what I notice.
4-ways or Hazards are not coming up Amber, they are red stop lights flashing. But it works. Brakes work good, reverse works good. My signals are working.. Have a very very small delay! I’m going to think about how and why to get rid of. Might not be able to. Was considering just hooking up signals to the tail lights, and then grabbing rest as it is for brakes and such.
Don’t for get to use dielectric grease. Keep a clean work area. Have fun!
again, This was just some **** to add to everyone’s help and information for others.
have to edit some photos and videos to bring down size and I’ll post.
Rammin BtoS AF
Active Member
Has anyone put a LED set of lights like this on a 2021 yet? When looking at my 2021 the distance between the bottom of the tailgate and the bumper is under an inch it seems. The two bumps/bulges on each end and the backup camera connection seems to be in the way of installing something like this.
ktl5005
Well-Known Member
Should be no different than 19-20. No change in design in body
Rammin BtoS AF
Active Member
Have you done it and can you upload a close up photo of the camera wiring and the ends, I am thinking maybe just the 48" would work better. But for sure need some additional back up lighting for backing into my driveway.
ktl5005
Well-Known Member
look back a few pages. I have the Putco dual LED bar on my 2019. used a Curtis 5 pin trailer harness, and just zip tied everything behind the bumper
Rammin BtoS AF
Active Member
I may have missed this, but what light strip is this?
