Sub woofer

[mhb1638]

Yup that simple. Just plug RCAs into the amp pro.

And I'm assuming the wires that are going to the sub will be the ones I route to the amppro input right?

 

[wildh24]

You have the dimensions of the box you used? Or is it from that other thread?

I can get them and will post. It's still wet so don't want to get my tape measure all sticky. I made my own box so I didn't use the measurements from the other post. I wanted mine to sit inside the factory under seat storage system.

Yup that simple. Just plug RCAs into the amp pro.

How's the bass adjustment knob perform on the Amppro? As effective as the ones from amp manufacturers?

 

[Adrianp89]

And I'm assuming the wires that are going to the sub will be the ones I route to the amppro input right?

What wires? AmpPro is plug and play to the radio module.

 

[wildh24]

What wires? AmpPro is plug and play to the radio module.

I think he meant the RCA cables. If so, yes just plug them in to the Ampro, run them back to the amp, and presto. Looks like the Ampro had a 12v turn on lead too, so run that as well. Save yourself some time finding one.

I think best practice is to run the rcas opposite the vehicle side you run the power to the amp to avoid interference, but I've seen it both ways.

 

[mhb1638]

What wires? AmpPro is plug and play to the radio module.

I meant its signal source. I was thinking the subwoofer speaker input would provide the hi level input for the amppro? Or is there something else?

 

[wildh24]

I meant its signal source. I was thinking the subwoofer speaker input would provide the hi level input for the amppro? Or is there something else?

No the Ampro plugs directly into the wiring harness behind the dash unit and the signal is obtained there before it gets to the subwoofer amplifier. You won't have to tap into any wiring at the sub.

Also if you don't want the factory sub playing at all you can simply disconnect it at the factory sub unit. The Ampro still providers signal to your after market amp and subwoofer. The only thing that may be bypassed is Active Noise Cancelling at the factory subwoofer (which may or may not be noticable...I don't know how effective ANC is at low frequencies).

 

[EJanx07]

Just finished the box. Volume ended up just shy of .53 cf. So I'm going to have to go with a 10". Don't know any 12s that'll work in that size. This is about as much volume as you're going to get and still have access to the ram bins and leave the under seat storage in place.

Mounting depth will be 4.5". So now to find a good 10". Will be driving with an Alpine 500w@2 ohm. Signal will come from the PAC unit.

I need to either carpet it or rhinoline it yet, but the shell is there.

So far, I've got about $28 into this, but 4 hours of fabricating.

What are the dimensions of the box? Height? (From the bottom touching the floor, to the top of the box touching the seat) Width? (from foot area storage bins to the back of the seat/cab and length? (passenger side to drivers side of seat)? I see they make a lot of sub boxes for F150’s ( no cargo bins with a flat floor surface under the rear seat like new style Rams.. I wonder if one of those would fit in the new style rams?

 

[wildh24]

You have the dimensions of the box you used? Or is it from that other thread?

Here you go. Should meet the volume requirements for the JL 10TW1. I will mount the speaker closer to the front of the box to keep as much top clearance as possible and that speaker is very low profile on the surface as well. There is a small hook attachment under the seat that will likely have to come off.

 

[mhb1638]

Here you go. Should meet the volume requirements for the JL 10TW1. I will mount the speaker closer to the front of the box to keep as much to clearance as possible and that speaker is very low profile on the surface as well. There is a small hook attachment under the seat that will likely have to come off.

Thanks so much for this. I look forward to the end result (mounted and such). Are you going with a JL or no?

 

[wildh24]

Thanks so much for this. I look forward to the end result (mounted and such). Are you going with a JL or no?

No problem. This is a very helpful forum and the tone is constructive which is nice. I've been on some where folks are not as helpful.

Yes I'm going with the JL, Amppro, and Alpine 500w amp. I won't drive the sub that hard, but got the amp for $60. BTW, you can get these for reasonable if you look around a bit and have some patience. I paid $200 for the Amppro and $170 for sub.

I'll follow up when I get it installed. Likely next week.

 

[wildh24]

Just a quick update. The JL 10tw sounds and fits perfect in this set up. I had to remove the hook on the underside of the seat, but that's no big deal.

In terms of sound, I'm still dialing things in but what a difference. I unhooked the factory sub because I couldn't get the two to work together. The factory sub is overbearing at certain frequencies and completely lacking at others. The JL is much more linear and gets down to the 30-50 hz range much better. The Amppro is still affected by the factory EQ so I was surprised that I needed to adjust the bass setting up. -2 was where I settled after a few minutes fiddling.

The sub is still breaking in so it's not the final settings but overall I'm dang glad I made this change. Completely changes the factory system.



Update****
Ended up using polyfill in the box. I didn't think it would make much difference but it was actually appreciable. (My wife and daughter who could care less confirmed.). Louder and deeper.

After getting the gain adjusted correctly (50%) and bass boost (+2) I'm quite pleased. No clipping up to 75% of max vol and that's way higher than I'll listen to the stereo at. If anyone is considering upgrading the sub, I can say I wholeheartedly feel it was worth it.

 

[mhb1638]

Just a quick update. The JL 10tw sounds and fits perfect in this set up. I had to remove the hook on the underside of the seat, but that's no big deal.

In terms of sound, I'm still dialing things in but what a difference. I unhooked the factory sub because I couldn't get the two to work together. The factory sub is overbearing at certain frequencies and completely lacking at others. The JL is much more linear and gets down to the 30-50 hz range much better. The Amppro is still affected by the factory EQ so I was surprised that I needed to adjust the bass setting up. -2 was where I settled after a few minutes fiddling.

The sub is still breaking in so it's not the final settings but overall I'm dang glad I made this change. Completely changes the factory system.

Thanks for the update boss. Guess I have a shopping list for a project down the road. Looks good!

PS...Which AmpPro model are people using? I see a few ones there....Just need a simple 1 or 2 channel.

 

[Adrianp89]

There is only one amp pro model that works - the AP4-CH41.

@wildh24 - Good review. I may start to build a box sometime soon as I really want to add in a sub.

Even though I do this professionally, I tend to keep my cars stock these days. However, my Charger with the Alpine really need a sub to dial it in, and adding one made a night and day difference. Sounds like this will be the same.

 

[Hackmunch]

10" ultimax

 

[wildh24]

I looked at the ultimax and it would be a good option but the volume requirements were tight. I wanted to keep the factory organization system in place so my volume was under .50 cf. By doing so it also maintains easy access to the storage bins. Love your box set up. Looks very clean. I'm likely going to end up carpeting mine because the paint finish just isn't doing it for me. Lesson learned.

Played a variety of music this a.m on the way to work (EDM, Lorde, John Mayer,. etc) and across the board it's a massive improvement. I found myself enjoying the music instead of frowning. I brought the bass EQ up to 0 on the factory dash. Amp gain at about 1/2. Boost at +4. Crossover at 110hz. Amppro volume adj knob at about 50%. At those levels it takes just a slight fine tuning depending on the song. The factory 6x9 door speakers do ok but they could benefit from a slightly higher crossover. Not bad though. Surround option on the factory settings is much better with this set up. I'll have to toggle between the two more to see which I actually prefer, but I found it improved vs the original set up.

A 12" or dual 10" would definitely give more punch, but overall I'm not looking to shake things to pieces. Just want more musicality, and in that regards I'm 95% satisfied.

The Amppro allows some tweaking by connectioning a computer. I haven't played with that but will this weekend. Might be able to dial in the bass a bit more. I also wouldn't mind trying some polyfill in the box. I don't expect drastic changes there but would be interesting to see if it helps the lower range of frequencies (20-50hz). I'll probably do that when I carpet the thing.

In terms of install, this truck is a breeze to work on. Panels come off and go on easily. Carpet and linings are easy to lift up. The 12" dash unit came out way easier than I thought! If you're installing the Amppro and have 12" screen, you'll also have to remove the silver/grey amp/electronics box behind the dash to plug in the harness. 4 screws and it pulls right off. You can then push the wiring and box down through a small crevace to the bottom left towards the driver floorboard area. At that point, you'll be able reach up and grab it from underneath.

I ran the amp power along the driver side and accessed the firewall through the factory grommet. Note... You'll have to make slits in the grommet on both sides. It's multi layered. Piecee of cake pull after that. I opened up the wire access channels under the door sills and pulled to the rear and ran behind the back seat. Do yourself a favor and pull 12v turn on lead at the same time. I just taped it to the power cable. You'll branch it off before the firewall though and run it under the driver footwell carpet to where Amppro will sit. I ran the RCAs down passenger side. 16ft-18ft length will do it. I used 18ft JL cables which are Overkill, but just wanted to do it once.

A couple other notes:

I used Noico (dynamat) on the doors and back wall behind the seat. I also hung a layer of MLV on the back wall and laid pieces under the front driver and passenger footwell carpet. This brought down road and wind noise further and the cab is now very quiet. I can hear the Falken tires a bit but not a big deal.

Have questions... Just ask. Have fun.

 

[Adrianp89]

Amp Gain at 2/3 and Boost at +10, is very concerning for me. Boost should never be used and amp gain typically shouldn't be past 1/2. I would set everything up with bass knob at max. This allows full voltage to the amplifier. I have zero doubts with bass knob max and current settings, you would be clipping pretty bad. Xover is personal preference but I would drop to 80-100hz, it may blend a lot better. 180hz is on the edge of its limits.

 

[wildh24]

Amp Gain at 2/3 and Boost at +10, is very concerning for me. Boost should never be used and amp gain typically shouldn't be past 1/2. I would set everything up with bass knob at max. This allows full voltage to the amplifier. I have zero doubts with bass knob max and current settings, you would be clipping pretty bad. Xover is personal preference but I would drop to 80-100hz, it may blend a lot better. 180hz is on the edge of its limits.

Yeah I thought the same to be honest, and yes it would clip at full with the bass adjustment at high. I never run it there and I have to make some adjustments. I had no time to work with it and just set it rough levels where I could hear it and tweak. I couldn't tell a difference on the xover between 120 and 180...I set it at 110 and will work back from there.

Also, for those doing this, don't use my settings as exact copies to your set up. Every amp and speaker and box will be different. I also need to test this amp to make sure it's performing at recommended specs. It's used and I haven't done so yet.

Edited... My starting points were off from where I originally thought. See above.

 

[Hackmunch]

mine is only under the passenger rear seat. i take my dog on trips so i fold up the rear drivers seat. my box is right at 1cft with a 3" aero port tuned to about 31hz. im running a hertz 1000w to the ultimax 10". i ran the power cable for the amp under the truck with the factory wiring. there is a plastic grommet under the truck right near the back of the back seats that must be used for the etorque setup (i dont have). i just drilled out the plastic gromet and boom your power wire is behind the back seats. i dont need a remote turn on wire. the hertz has an auto turn on with audio signal. this works very very good. i used the high level audio signal from the factory sub to feed the amp. this setup gets very very low and sounds great. im a huge audiophile and a long time car audio spl competitor and im actually very impressed.

 

[Adrianp89]

I am leaning towards doing something similiar with the Aero port. If I use the entire back seat I could get some significant volume and tune it low for a single sub. I want to do it within the confines of the storage system so storage doors still work though.

 

[Hackmunch]

I am leaning towards doing something similiar with the Aero port. If I use the entire back seat I could get some significant volume and tune it low for a single sub.

oh ya for sure. the only problem is the mounting depth of the sub.