Sub woofer

[DennisY]

Couple questions on this....you said you ran from the factory sub, i'm assuming you disconnected the factory sub and used those wires as a feed to your subs? Secondly, what ohm are the subs your using? I wonder...just wonder...if this setup you're doing (for the moment) is too much on the factory amp? Just things I am thinking of...lol

Yes, I used the wires from the factory sub to feed the new subs. The new ones are 4 ohm subs. They are in parallel right now so thus they present a 2 ohm load. I don't know the specs on the factory amp but during testing this afternoon, all was well. I do plan to put in my aftermarket amp though.

 

[Rebel03]

Yes, I used the wires from the factory sub to feed the new subs. The new ones are 4 ohm subs. They are in parallel right now so thus they present a 2 ohm load. I don't know the specs on the factory amp but during testing this afternoon, all was well. I do plan to put in my aftermarket amp though.

So when you took the factory amp output, did you bridge all three signals into one on your new subs. I've not looked at the factory wiring yet, but my understanding is stock is triple voice coil with individual output wiring from the factory amp to each. So just clarifying how and what you connected to the subs.

(Note I'm not planning on doing this, but still curious for others and future possibilities)

 

[DennisY]

So when you took the factory amp output, did you bridge all three signals into one on your new subs. I've not looked at the factory wiring yet, but my understanding is stock is triple voice coil with individual output wiring from the factory amp to each. So just clarifying how and what you connected to the subs.

(Note I'm not planning on doing this, but still curious for others and future possibilities)

I'm not sure of the factory voice coil situation but that sub doesn't look like much to me.

All I did for now is to unplug the audio wire going into the factory sub behind the rear seat, use some wire tapping devices (so that I didn't have to cut off the plug on the wire). Then I ran a new wire from the tapping device to my new sub box. So whatever audio the factory amp is sending to the rear factory sub is now going to my new subs instead.

Once I find the grommet on the firewall, I will change this temporary connection. For now, I just wanted to see what would happen in this config until I find the grommet.

 

[DennisY]

Look up under the Foot well. It's way to the left and there is a whole stack of wires that run through it.

The picture shows it coming through. It's easiest to cut a slit on the engine bay side, push a stiff wire through until it hits the 2nd later of rubber, go back to the foot well side, make another slit where the wire is and then push the wire through.

Tape the power cable to the wire and pull it back. It helps to use some silicone lube on the cable since it's rubber on rubber.

Is that green wire your power cable?

I guess I'm looking for a smallish round grommet. Maybe that isn't what I should be looking for? Here's a pic from inside the engine compartment. Not a great angle but there is a large harness coming through this large rubber piece. Is this where you are saying to make my slit?

Appreciate your help!

 

[wildh24]

Is that green wire your power cable?

I guess I'm looking for a smallish round grommet. Maybe that isn't what I should be looking for? Here's a pic from inside the engine compartment. Not a great angle but there is a large harness coming through this large rubber piece. Is this where you are saying to make my slit?

Appreciate your help!

View attachment 22204

Yes that's it! U got it. Yes the green is the power cable on my picture. If you look on the engine bay side, that big grommet actually has a small spot on the bottom of it specifically for another wire run. We believe this was for after market accessories. Only problem with it is it's too small for a decent size power cable. So I just put a small slit on the side of the big grommet and pushed it through. Again, that grommet has two layers so you'll need to make a cut on engine bay side, and footwell side. That's why I used a stiff wire, so I could see exactly where to make it in the other side vs guessing. When you push the wire through, you can see the exact spot it's coming out on the second layer.

When it was all done I put a bit of gasket maker on the edges to make sure it was sealed (probably overkill).

Some people ran the cable under the truck and then came through the rear of the cab vs the firewall. This would work as well, but I didn't want to do that on mine just for cable exposure. I had cable come loose from the fuse on an older car and it shorted.... Sent a plum of white smoke, killed the engine, and melted the cable. So my bias is to keep the power cords as protected as possible.

 

[DennisY]

Yes that's it! U got it. Yes the green is the power cable on my picture. If you look on the engine bay side, that big grommet actually has a small spot on the bottom of it specifically for another wire run. We believe this was for after market accessories. Only problem with it is it's too small for a decent size power cable. So I just put a small slit on the side of the big grommet and pushed it through. Again, that grommet has two layers so you'll need to make a cut on engine bay side, and footwell side. That's why I used a stiff wire, so I could see exactly where to make it in the other side vs guessing. When you push the wire through, you can see the exact spot it's coming out on the second layer.

When it was all done I put a bit of gasket maker on the edges to make sure it was sealed (probably overkill).

Some people ran the cable under the truck and then came through the rear of the cab vs the firewall. This would work as well, but I didn't want to do that on mine just for cable exposure. I had cable come loose from the fuse on an older car and it shorted.... Sent a plum of white smoke, killed the engine, and melted the cable. So my bias is to keep the power cords as protected as possible.

Okay, cool, thanks! I'll tackle this next weekend. It looks like a clearer shot in my case to go above that existing harness. On the inside, it makes a hard downward turn, so getting around it to make a slit might be challenging. It's clear above that harness on both inside and in the engine compartment.

I'll plan on the gasket maker as well. That's a good idea.

I'm with you on running the power cable inside if possible. I ran it under the truck on my F150 a number of years ago. Never had a problem. Even if the tie wraps had broken loose, the cable didn't have anywhere to go. But still, the inside is the way to go whenever possible in my opinion.

Thanks again for the assist!

 

[wildh24]

Okay, cool, thanks! I'll tackle this next weekend. It looks like a clearer shot in my case to go above that existing harness. On the inside, it makes a hard downward turn, so getting around it to make a slit might be challenging. It's clear above that harness on both inside and in the engine compartment.

I'll plan on the gasket maker as well. That's a good idea.

I'm with you on running the power cable inside if possible. I ran it under the truck on my F150 a number of years ago. Never had a problem. Even if the tie wraps had broken loose, the cable didn't have anywhere to go. But still, the inside is the way to go whenever possible in my opinion.

Thanks again for the assist!

NP! Use some silicone wire lube too if you have some. It's pretty sticky otherwise.

 

[DennisY]

Wildh24, did you run the green power cable under the side rails along the doors? I popped them up this afternoon and I don't see that there is enough room there to do that.

 

[wildh24]

Wildh24, did you run the green power cable under the side rails along the doors? I popped them up this afternoon and I don't see that there is enough room there to do that.

Yes. There is a black channel. I popped it open and ran it inside that.

 

[DennisY]

Yes. There is a black channel. I popped it open and ran it inside that.

Thanks, I'll look for it tomorrow.

 

[wildh24]

Thanks, I'll look for it tomorrow.

It was tight, but it worked.

 

[DennisY]

It was tight, but it worked.

What gauge wire is yours? I bought #4. It's pretty thick. I may need to buy #6 instead.

BTW, where did you place your amp? I have a couple of places in mind but neither are perfect in my opinion.

 

[wildh24]

#4. I mounted it on top of the box under the rear seat for easy access.

 

[DennisY]

#4. I mounted it on top of the box under the rear seat for easy access.

Gotcha, that was one of the spots I was looking at.

 

[jloops]

Firstly, thanks to everyone for the great information given here, will help me later (and others as it seems now). Again TY.

Now, my previous 17 Alpine system I also disliked the bass. The fix for that was a new sub from Pioneer which helps TREMENDOUSLY. So here I am in the 19 and the bass is disgusting as hell. Sloppy and **** poor. The doors hit harder and cleaner than this thing. I know no ones done it yet, but wouldn't a speaker change yield more benefit than polyfill? I realize it would be very difficult to find the right speaker (the Alpine took a dual 2 ohm IIRC) but I am not convinced polyfill is the bandaid fix here. As I said, to me the bass is garbage. Some days its over powering and rattling my sliding window, other days the doors are over powering. Whent he bass does do something its very muddy and sloppy. if I were going to tear apart the back seat, I would prefer a speaker change. Problem is, what to out there.........

I was wondering the same thing. Has anyone tried keeping the stock enclosure and just replaced the sub?

This sub or similar

Reference Flex Woofer 8s | 8" (200mm) adjustable depth car audio subwoofers optimized for factory location upgrades

Reference Flex subwoofers are optimized for small, sealed enclosures. These OEM-replacement subwoofers deliver impressive performance and remarkable installation flexibility with a patent-pending, adjustable mounting flange.

www.infinityspeakers.com

 

[DennisY]

I was wondering the same thing. Has anyone tried keeping the stock enclosure and just replaced the sub?

This sub or similar

Reference Flex Woofer 8s | 8" (200mm) adjustable depth car audio subwoofers optimized for factory location upgrades

Reference Flex subwoofers are optimized for small, sealed enclosures. These OEM-replacement subwoofers deliver impressive performance and remarkable installation flexibility with a patent-pending, adjustable mounting flange.

www.infinityspeakers.com

You would need to find out the depth of this Infinity sub. The stock sub is VERY shallow and there isn't room to mount anything much deeper.

 

[jloops]

You would need to find out the depth of this Infinity sub. The stock sub is VERY shallow and there isn't room to mount anything much deeper.

Yeah, I understand that. I believe this particular sub has a 2.5 inch mounting depth, but I was really wondering from a performance basis does it sound much better than the stock sub. That's why I was asking if anyone had tried this sub or something similar??

 

[GOATinstructor]

I asked in another thread, and maybe someone here might be able to help out.

Long story short, I unpinned my alpine factory sub and removed it. I want to put it back. What order do the wires go back in the connector at the sub?

Can anyone post a pic of their connector?

 

[392DCGC]

Anyone know if you can slip the subwoofer out from behind the seat when it’s folded forward without removing the seat? If not, does anyone have instructions or a specific tool list of how to remove the seat? I can’t find any PDFs here of the removal instructions, and I’ve see a few different tools recommended. Going to polyfill my sub, but also wanted to put some Noico butyl rubber behind it to try to cut vibrations.

 

[DennisY]

Yes, it can. A little tight to work in that area but definitely doable. No need to remove the seat. I've removed mine a few times trying out a few different tactics. Polyfill helped but in the end, I bypassed the sub and went with an underseat dual sub setup. Your mileage may vary.