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Retrofitting the 33 gallon tank

Rammit

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For anybody that has done the swap, does this fuel pump look to be complete? Thought about going with a used one if it's worth it.

That appears to be complete but I couldn’t be for sure.
 

Dixit

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For anybody that has done the swap, does this fuel pump look to be complete? Thought about going with a used one if it's worth it.


Man I still got my fuel pump from the 33gal tank I got and never installed. I keep forgetting to put that on eBay. Now this reminded me to do it.
 

Whoa_Ram

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Man I still got my fuel pump from the 33gal tank I got and never installed. I keep forgetting to put that on eBay. Now this reminded me to do it.
How much are you asking for it? you can PM me.
 

ALT_F13

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I've finally completed 33 gallon fuel tank retrofit on my 2020 RAM Rebel. I took that truck from stock inventory at the dealership, and I thought I will be OK with 23 gallon tank, which was a trade-off for a eTorque engine. Man, I love how eTorque works comparing to regular 5.7 HEMI.
My previous SUV had just 14 gallon, and while it was very inconvenient, I was living with it for few years. But then I switched to Dodge Durango with its 25 gallon tank and 21 mpg even going 80mph on a highway. So I easily was going 450-500 miles between fuel stops, and I even changed the way I do road trips taking bio-breaks in parks instead of gas stations. My dog definitely appreciated that change. 23 gallon in Rebel wasn't too small comparing to 25 gallon in Durango, but because of way lower mpg on highway speeds, I needed to stop to refuel every 3 hours. Plus when going to the wilderness, I needed to fill-up at the last gas station, and then hoping that I will have enough fuel to return back. So long story short - I realized that I really need a 33 gallon tank.

Thanks to people in this thread for valuable info. Unfortunately, I couldn't find A-Z guide how to do this upgrade, so it took some time to do my own research. Let's start.

Parts that you need:
1. 68408875AE - 33 gallon fuel tank
2. 68409160AE - fuel pump. Looks like if you have 26 gallon tank you can reuse it, but 23 gallon fuel pump is different. It comes with O-ring seal.
3. 52030458AB and 06104717AA - 3rd fuel tank strap and nut. You need this if you are lucky and you have a subframe member for the 3rd strap, closer to the front of the truck. It is not clear why some trucks with 23 or 26 gallon tanks have it, and some don't.
4. 52029888AC - vapor canister (EVAP). It is longer then vapor canister of 23 gallon tank.
5. 52029909AC - hose from vapor canister to fresh air filter. It is different than the hose from 23 gallon tank.
6. 52029908AB - hose from vapor canister to vapor tube
7. 68307831AB - vapor tube. Connects hose 52029908AB with another vapor tube, going to the engine. It is shorter than 23/26 gallon tank tube.
8. 52030443AB - fuel line bundle. Connects vapor canister, fuel pump and exhaust port on the fuel tank. It is longer than 23/26 gallon tank bundle.
9. 04721916AA - lock ring for fuel pump. Small addition that will save you a lot of time. Instead of reusing the lock ring from an old tank, just put a fresh one to a new tank. Few backs worth the pain of trying to remove an old ring from old tank from my perspective.
10. 68408875AE - skid plate for 33 gallon fuel tank. If you have a skid plate on your 23/26 gallon tank, it is shorter and won't cover ~1 feet of the longer 33 gallon tank.

I was upgrading from 23 gallon tank, I don’t have a frame crossmember for the 3rd strap, and I've decided to keep my short fuel tank skid plate since I don't plan to do crazy rock crawling. Total for parts before tax for me was less than $600, which is OK since 33 gallon tank as an extra option when you order the truck costs $450. Plus 2-3 hours of work if you know what to do.

1. First things that you need to do is to burn as much gas in the tank as you can. When I returned back to my garage, trip computer was showing 20 miles to empty, but actually it appeared that ~3 gallons were still left in the tank. So try to get it to the state when it shows "Low". It will save you time from activating fuel pump through AlfaOBD and draining the remaining gas to the bucket. Plus I didn't relieved the pressure from fuel system, I just let the truck to stay overnight in the garage. So use as much gas as you can and then leave the truck alone for 12 hours, and don't start it when you return back to remove the tank.
2. Remove fuel tank skid plate if you have it by unscrewing 4 bolts.
3. Follow Fuel Tank Replacement Guide to remove the tank. I've skipped steps #1 and #4. I used 4 jack stands to lift the vehicle 0.5 feet above the ground - that was enough to work on this. Then I used floor jack with a piece of 2x6 stud to carefully lower the tank to the ground. With few gallons of gas inside, I think total weight was over 30 pounds, so I suggest to use a buddy to help you with this. Check Fuel Connector chart for more details how to disconnect each connector type.
4. Install new fuel pump by following steps #1-#7 from Fuel Pump Replacement guide.
5. Install new vapor canister on a new tank. Install 52029908AB hose and 52030443AB bundle on the tank, use old tank as a reference how to connect everything.
6. Swap heat shield from old tank to new tank by unclipping 4 plastic clips.
7. Go under the truck and remove vapor tube going to the engine, and replace it with shorter vapor tube (68307831AB). You will need to unclip the plastic mounts holding break lines and a fuel line, be careful not to damage them.
8. Then replace hose that goes from you've disconnected from vapor canister, that goes to fresh air filter. New one is 52029909AC.
9. Install new tank, which is directly opposite to tank removal procedure, nothing special there.
10. If you have a frame crossmember for 3rd strap, install that 3rd strap. My truck didn't have it, and I can't say that tank with 2 straps is not secured well - it is not moving anywhere, and majority of the weight is carried on default two straps just fine. Tank is made of a thick high-density plastic, so it will not crack even under its own weight.
11. Install the skid plate.
12. Lower the truck and fuel it up. I poured 2 gallons from the canister and checked for leaks. Start the truck and make sure it runs well and nothing is leaking. Water drops from the exhaust are water, not gas, so don't freak out if you see them :)
13. Connect with AlfaOBD and change VehConfig-3 Fuel Capacity to 125, which is the 33 gallon tank volume in liters (default setting for 23 gallon tank is 87). Check this post for details, thanks Dixit.
14. Go to the gas station and fill up. Enjoy 500+ miles to empty on the trip computer!

If you find this guide useful, check my Amazon influencer page for other items that I use with my RAM: bit.ly/RAMStuff
Just wanted to give an update on the skid plate install after upgrading to 33 gallon tank.
First of all, you can leave your existing 23/26 gallon tank skid plate as is, it fits. But it doesn't protect ~30% of the fuel tank. And I was lucky to enough to almost hit the tank in exactly that uncovered spot when doing rock crawling.

So what you will need:
1. 52029964AD - Fuel tank skid plate for 33 gallon tank
2. 68348386AB - Frame cross member. It is also optional, but without a cross member front of the skid plate is not mounted anywhere and bends easily. You can hit skid plate with a rock and it will bend enough to damage the skid plate.
3. 4x 06508646AA and 6x 06104416AA - hardware to install the cross member, 4 retainer nuts and 6 bolts. You can reuse the remaining 4 bolts from your old skid plate (3 small ones and 4th is similar to 06104416AA).

Here is a picture showing the front side of the long 33 gal fuel tank skid plate with a new frame cross member.
Screenshot 2021-10-08 221414.jpg
 

Rammit

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Just wanted to give an update on the skid plate install after upgrading to 33 gallon tank.
First of all, you can leave your existing 23/26 gallon tank skid plate as is, it fits. But it doesn't protect ~30% of the fuel tank. And I was lucky to enough to almost hit the tank in exactly that uncovered spot when doing rock crawling.

So what you will need:
1. 52029964AD - Fuel tank skid plate for 33 gallon tank
2. 68348386AB - Frame cross member. It is also optional, but without a cross member front of the skid plate is not mounted anywhere and bends easily. You can hit skid plate with a rock and it will bend enough to damage the skid plate.
3. 4x 06508646AA and 6x 06104416AA - hardware to install the cross member, 4 retainer nuts and 6 bolts. You can reuse the remaining 4 bolts from your old skid plate (3 small ones and 4th is similar to 06104416AA).

Here is a picture showing the front side of the long 33 gal fuel tank skid plate with a new frame cross member.
View attachment 107623
Nice write up. I left my short skid plate on as I do not do much off road. With the help of a friend, we came up with a mount you can weld in to attach the third tank strap to. He has sold quite a few to other members if you are interested.
 

ALT_F13

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Nice write up. I left my short skid plate on as I do not do much off road. With the help of a friend, we came up with a mount you can weld in to attach the third tank strap to. He has sold quite a few to other members if you are interested.
I'm curious to see how long two straps will last. I'm doing a lot of offroading and hit a lot of hard bumps, but all good for now. If one strap breaks, the fuel tank will just lay on the frame crossmember and I will notice it. Then I will think about welding a 3rd strap :)
 

Biesty

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I'm curious to see how long two straps will last. I'm doing a lot of offroading and hit a lot of hard bumps, but all good for now. If one strap breaks, the fuel tank will just lay on the frame crossmember and I will notice it. Then I will think about welding a 3rd strap :)
That will be a great test to determine what many of us believe ... that the two straps are enough. However, I am more concerned of what would happen in an accident like a T-Bone. But I think the skid plate and the extra frame cross member will provide more protection than the third strap could ever provide. I did the third strap and the skid plate with extra frame cross member. But I do think the two straps will definitely hold the weight fine.
 

T_etzz

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Does anyone know what the difference is in the 33 gallon tank part number 68408876AF, this is the one I received and it shows 68408875AF is the correct, what’s the difference??
 

MaxCarnage

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Does anyone know what the difference is in the 33 gallon tank part number 68408876AF, this is the one I received and it shows 68408875AF is the correct, what’s the difference??

68408875AF is the part you want for the 5.7 hemi. The 68408876AF is for the 3.6 V6
 

htfeep

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I'm curious to see how long two straps will last. I'm doing a lot of offroading and hit a lot of hard bumps, but all good for now. If one strap breaks, the fuel tank will just lay on the frame crossmember and I will notice it. Then I will think about welding a 3rd strap :)
I drive Interstate 71 between Louisville and Columbus, OH a lot. That's a lot like off-roading, if you catch my drift. I've had zero problems with two straps. ::knocks-on-wood::
 

Tellsch

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I'm curious to see how long two straps will last. I'm doing a lot of offroading and hit a lot of hard bumps, but all good for now. If one strap breaks, the fuel tank will just lay on the frame crossmember and I will notice it. Then I will think about welding a 3rd strap :)
The strap(s) won't break, I think the plastic tank will eventually weaken and crack/leak. To be determined over time obviously, but there is a large portion of the tank not supported by anything other than the rigidity of the tank itself. I would think off-roading would accelerate that process, but who knows!
 

Jack.

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Just came across this, wish I was more mechanically talented ☠☠. Been wanting to upgrade my 23->33 but doesn't seem like anyone is willing to do so (dealership wise and some local mechanics) 😩
 

T_etzz

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Got my tank in today and this was rattling around inside, definitely broken. Has anyone else had this problem and what is this part 6C11519D-0DA3-4AFA-917F-31A895EC5A4C.jpeg
 

Moosefire66

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Got my tank in today and this was rattling around inside, definitely broken. Has anyone else had this problem and what is this part View attachment 108702
Can't recall what it is, but every single post I've seen that had a tank shipped has had that part rattling around inside

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
 

Jack.

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Just came across this post, I see a lot of the conversion are from rebel. Does anyone have the complete part # list for ram 1500 2021 laramie? Will be upgrading from 23 > 33gal
 

Rammit

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Just came across this post, I see a lot of the conversion are from rebel. Does anyone have the complete part # list for ram 1500 2021 laramie? Will be upgrading from 23 > 33gal
It’s all in the thread. I am not sure what pages without going back but I listed all the parts I used to convert my Laramie 23 gallon to the 33. Hope that helps.
 

widdoss87

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Working on the swapping my truck from 26 gallon tank to 33 gallon. The vapor tube 68307831AB along the frame rail above the fuel line was about 4 to 6 inches short from connecting to the purge hose 52029908AB which comes from the vapor cannister. My truck is a 2020 1500 Laramie crew cab with 6'4" bed. Trying to figure out the part number for the correct vapor tube. Possibly needs to be longer cause of the longer bed? Any help is much appreciated.
 

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