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Retrofitting the 33 gallon tank

pcar

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For those that have done this. is there a trick to getting the fuel fill inlet off? I've crawled under and walked thru of all the steps before i start. I could easily undo all of the fuel lines clips and vent lines and put them back on. Everything is quick and easy except the fuel fill inlet has me scratching my head. I can't get my hand in there to feel the fuel filler clamp bolt, let alone a wrench. Drop the tank a little 1st (how much can i before it puts strain on the fuel filler? Remove the wheel well liner and see if that gives me better access? . If i can figure out how to get to the fuel fill inlet easily i could probably do this job in an hr.
 

CKCKCKCK1

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Slide the tank back towards the exhaust a little. This should allow you to lower it further.

I ran into the same problem. I realized that when I lowered the tank, I also slid it forward.. putting the line under tension. Sliding it backwards gave me some breathing room to get the tools in there.
 

2020Big4x4Horn

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For those that have done this. is there a trick to getting the fuel fill inlet off? I've crawled under and walked thru of all the steps before i start. I could easily undo all of the fuel lines clips and vent lines and put them back on. Everything is quick and easy except the fuel fill inlet has me scratching my head. I can't get my hand in there to feel the fuel filler clamp bolt, let alone a wrench. Drop the tank a little 1st (how much can i before it puts strain on the fuel filler? Remove the wheel well liner and see if that gives me better access? . If i can figure out how to get to the fuel fill inlet easily i could probably do this job in an hr.
Pull the wheel liner and tank it loose from the filler neck and leave it clamped to the tank. Then pull it out. Reinstall it to the new tank before putting it back in.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

Landrover1

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I’ve been debating going from a 26 to 33 gallon tank. After everybody’s write ups and detailing all the part numbers it sounds relatively straight forward. It’s when I start running the numbers and wondering if the effort is worth the outcome that I hesitate. I get 15.5 mpg usually And have the 26 gallon tank. If I drive 15k miles per year I will average 37.5 fill ups per year. If I swap to the 33 gallon tank I will average 29.4 fill ups a year. Is the effort and cost worth 8 less fill ups over an entire year? To me, not really. I’d rather get the eco diesel with the 33 if I really want the range. I still want to do it just to do it though.
 

Rammit

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23 gallon to 33 gallon swap. Mine is being done by my local dealer next week. 2 year warranty on parts and labor. They gave me a 20% discount on parts. Decided to go threw them in case any issues arise it's on them to fix it. It would have been cheaper if I didn't have a rebel (Longer skid plate was expensive!).

1. 68408875AF - 33 gallon fuel tank - $224.00
2. 68409160AE - fuel pump - $140.00
3. 52029888AC - vapor canister (EVAP) - $152.00
4. 52029909AC - hose filter - $16.20
5. 52029908AB - hose purge - $45.96
6. 68307831AB - vapor tube - $24.48
7. 52030443AB - fuel line bundle - $60.16
8. 04721916AA - lock ring for fuel pump - $11.60
9. 52029964AD – 33 gallon skid plate - $331.20

Total Parts: $1,046.06 (without skid plate $714.86)

33 gallon ECU flash - $130
Were they able to do the ecu flash to show the correct range. If so, can you detail how they did it so I can refer to another dealer. My dealer said they couldn’t do it and I don’t want to buy all the stuff to do myself.
 

MaxCarnage

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Were they able to do the ecu flash to show the correct range. If so, can you detail how they did it so I can refer to another dealer. My dealer said they couldn’t do it and I don’t want to buy all the stuff to do myself.

I'll let you know. It goes in this Thursday to get done. I think they just re-flash the computer (ECU or BCM) with the 33 gallon sales code that they get from FCA.
 

CKCKCKCK1

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I’ve been debating going from a 26 to 33 gallon tank. After everybody’s write ups and detailing all the part numbers it sounds relatively straight forward. It’s when I start running the numbers and wondering if the effort is worth the outcome that I hesitate. I get 15.5 mpg usually And have the 26 gallon tank. If I drive 15k miles per year I will average 37.5 fill ups per year. If I swap to the 33 gallon tank I will average 29.4 fill ups a year. Is the effort and cost worth 8 less fill ups over an entire year? To me, not really. I’d rather get the eco diesel with the 33 if I really want the range. I still want to do it just to do it though.
For me, the main benefit is having another 100 miles in range. I have a couple of recurring trips where stopping 3/4 the way between the destinations for a fill up is not at all convenient.
 

MaxCarnage

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@Rammit

Just got my truck back. They didn't flash the ECU to read 33 gallons to empty correctly. The tech said they didn't have the ability to do it. That's not what I was told at the start of this. So now I wait for the service manager to call me back. Worst case scenario I do it myself with Alpha OBD. Never used it before and heard it works with android so hopefully if I have to go that route I can do it with my phone.

Also some things to note. My Rebel has factory skid plates. I had to order a longer skid plate for the 33 gallon tank to cover the entire tank part# 52029964AD. Apparently there is also another smaller bracket that helps support the length of the skid plate and bolts needed.
1 - 68348386AB - Crossmember bracket
4 - 6508646AA - Nut hex bolts
2 - 6512090AA - Nut hex bolts

Just like the 3rd strap support, except this helps support the extra skid plate length.

Right now until my rebel fuel gauge is corrected, I'm guessing it will go to "empty" but not actually be empty. So I'll have to sort this out with Alpha OBD if the dealer can't. I better start reading up on Alpha OBD to be prepared.

Lastly I'll need to get a custom 3rd strap welded in. I tugged on the tank a bit (at the end of it where it's unsupported) and it feels well supported with a full tank and only 2 straps, but I'd feel better with the 3rd strap being there.

Overall there is quite a bit of stuff that needs to be done in order to do the switch from a 23 gallon tank to a 33 gallon tank. Especially if your truck has skid plates like the rebel does. Lesson learned, I will never buy a truck again with the tiny tank! I'm just glad there is a work around even if it's tedious and more costly than I'd prefer.

So far I'm into this $1,005.60 for parts and $160 for labor (dealer gave me a killer deal for labor due to warranty issues and 23 gallon tank not going to full). All said and done this is going to cost me about triple what it would have cost just to get it from the factory stock. Again hard lesson learned. Just glad its fixable and not bad enough I'd have to do a trade in lol.
 

Biesty

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Funny, I just found that crossmember today as well and was thinking of ordering it.
For the dealer to update the system they should only need to add the sales code and then update the system which should be pretty basic.
I believe that code is NFF but there is a possibility it is NLL.
When you order a truck you add code NFF to get the 33 gallon tank but doc from 2008 states that’s for a 35 gallon and NLL is for 33. If you get confirmation please update us.
 

MaxCarnage

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Funny, I just found that crossmember today as well and was thinking of ordering it.
For the dealer to update the system they should only need to add the sales code and then update the system which should be pretty basic.
I believe that code is NFF but there is a possibility it is NLL.
When you order a truck you add code NFF to get the 33 gallon tank but doc from 2008 states that’s for a 35 gallon and NLL is for 33. If you get confirmation please update us.

Will do. They seem to be semi-clueless. Standard dealership lol. The tech didn't even say anything about me not having a 3rd strap support for the tank, yet they are going to warranty their work for 2 years lol.

I'll probably order the crossmember parts and install them myself. Looks really easy.
 
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Rammit

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@Rammit

Just got my truck back. They didn't flash the ECU to read 33 gallons to empty correctly. The tech said they didn't have the ability to do it. That's not what I was told at the start of this. So now I wait for the service manager to call me back. Worst case scenario I do it myself with Alpha OBD. Never used it before and heard it works with android so hopefully if I have to go that route I can do it with my phone.

Also some things to note. My Rebel has factory skid plates. I had to order a longer skid plate for the 33 gallon tank to cover the entire tank part# 52029964AD. Apparently there is also another smaller bracket that helps support the length of the skid plate and bolts needed.
1 - 68348386AB - Crossmember bracket
4 - 6508646AA - Nut hex bolts
2 - 6512090AA - Nut hex bolts

Just like the 3rd strap support, except this helps support the extra skid plate length.

Right now until my rebel fuel gauge is corrected, I'm guessing it will go to "empty" but not actually be empty. So I'll have to sort this out with Alpha OBD if the dealer can't. I better start reading up on Alpha OBD to be prepared.

Lastly I'll need to get a custom 3rd strap welded in. I tugged on the tank a bit (at the end of it where it's unsupported) and it feels well supported with a full tank and only 2 straps, but I'd feel better with the 3rd strap being there.

Overall there is quite a bit of stuff that needs to be done in order to do the switch from a 23 gallon tank to a 33 gallon tank. Especially if your truck has skid plates like the rebel does. Lesson learned, I will never buy a truck again with the tiny tank! I'm just glad there is a work around even if it's tedious and more costly than I'd prefer.

So far I'm into this $1,005.60 for parts and $160 for labor (dealer gave me a killer deal for labor due to warranty issues and 23 gallon tank not going to full). All said and done this is going to cost me about triple what it would have cost just to get it from the factory stock. Again hard lesson learned. Just glad its fixable and not bad enough I'd have to do a trade in lol.
I’m not surprised that the dealer couldn’t add the sales code. Mine told me the same. The level is still accurate but the range is off by a lot. I’d love to get this completed but don’t feel comfortable using the Alpha OBD. I am mechanically inclined but can’t stand electronics. Let us know if the service manager had any insight. Thanks for the update.
 

2020Big4x4Horn

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I’m not surprised that the dealer couldn’t add the sales code. Mine told me the same. The level is still accurate but the range is off by a lot. I’d love to get this completed but don’t feel comfortable using the Alpha OBD. I am mechanically inclined but can’t stand electronics. Let us know if the service manager had any insight. Thanks for the update.
The alpha obd part of it takes 2 minutes if that. It's literally just one change.

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MaxCarnage

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I’m not surprised that the dealer couldn’t add the sales code. Mine told me the same. The level is still accurate but the range is off by a lot. I’d love to get this completed but don’t feel comfortable using the Alpha OBD. I am mechanically inclined but can’t stand electronics. Let us know if the service manager had any insight. Thanks for the update.
Yeah I'm not happy with this until the DTE is fixed. Otherwise, there isn't much of a point to this imo. I have all that extra range but won't know exactly how much, and don't want to risk running out of gas because of that. I went forward with this because my dealer told me they could flash it. I did have Alpha OBD as a backup plan though. I just prefer to keep it all done at the dealer since they are warranting all the work and parts.

When my truck is full it said 353 miles DTE, I'm guessing it should be right around 500 miles when corrected.

I'll keep you posted best I can. I also need to call your buddy to get him to fab up the 3rd bracket for me.
 

MaxCarnage

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@Rammit

I missed a late call from the service manger yesterday, however he left a voicemail. In short they are going to research and look for a solution. However, he told me he's on vacation all of next week. So I doubt much will get done without him there. They shouldn't have to be researching anything, when they told me at the start that they could do this. Tells me they didn't look into this enough. Sounds like I'll be waiting awhile for an answer. I'll keep you posted best I can.
 

Rammit

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@Rammit

I missed a late call from the service manger yesterday, however he left a voicemail. In short they are going to research and look for a solution. However, he told me he's on vacation all of next week. So I doubt much will get done without him there. They shouldn't have to be researching anything, when they told me at the start that they could do this. Tells me they didn't look into this enough. Sounds like I'll be waiting awhile for an answer. I'll keep you posted best I can.
When I dropped mine off they sounded like it was no big deal. When I picked it up, is when I was told they cannot do it. Very disappointing but par for the course white dealership service. They even used this forum to look some stuff up. Let’s hope your service manager can figure it out.
 

MaxCarnage

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When I dropped mine off they sounded like it was no big deal. When I picked it up, is when I was told they cannot do it. Very disappointing but par for the course white dealership service. They even used this forum to look some stuff up. Let’s hope your service manager can figure it out.

Yeah my dealership said the same. Made it sound like it was easy, they were more worried about getting all the right parts. Which I did all the research on, thanks to this forum. What frustrates me most is that after I asked them to verify that the tank read to full and DTE read somewhere around 500 miles. They told me they would and that everything went great after the install was done. So they pushed me into billing to pay, I did, and then noticed once I got into my truck that it was not right.
 

MaxCarnage

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Has anyone done the 23 gallon to 33 gallon upgrade using Alpha OBD? I've seen a few people do the 26 gallon to 33 gallon upgrade. I know the capacity size would have to be changed to 125 liters. However, another member said the fuel sensor might have to be changed too with the 23 gallon ones. Since the small 23 gallon tanks run different size fuel pumps.

So far I've noticed that my DTE is wrong, but I also feel like my fuel gauge full to empty is wrong too. The needle seems to be going down with the DTE.

My dealer put $92 worth of fuel in my truck with my local fuel prices should be right about 29 gallons worth of fuel.
 

2020Big4x4Horn

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Has anyone done the 23 gallon to 33 gallon upgrade using Alpha OBD? I've seen a few people do the 26 gallon to 33 gallon upgrade. I know the capacity size would have to be changed to 125 liters. However, another member said the fuel sensor might have to be changed too with the 23 gallon ones. Since the small 23 gallon tanks run different size fuel pumps.

So far I've noticed that my DTE is wrong, but I also feel like my fuel gauge full to empty is wrong too. The needle seems to be going down with the DTE.

My dealer put $92 worth of fuel in my truck with my local fuel prices should be right about 29 gallons worth of fuel.
I dont remember doing anything with a fuel sensor. I put in 33gal tank, the pump, all the lines, and changed the capacity with alpha obd. My range read 523 on the first fill up.

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MaxCarnage

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I dont remember doing anything with a fuel sensor. I put in 33gal tank, the pump, all the lines, and changed the capacity with alpha obd. My range read 523 on the first fill up.

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Okay and to be clear you went from a 23 gallon tank to a 33 gallon tank correct?
 

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