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Rear window leak

I have same issue here as everyone else, and outside warranty.
I have the cracks. Mine ends up letting water in at the driver side rear pillar area.
I'm thinking about using clear flex seal spray and blasting it into the upper window channel. Thinking of maybe using a oil funnel that I have that comes to a very small tip to direct the spray into the channel.
With the amount of water coming in, I think these are relatively small holes that need to be sealed.

Anyone have any thoughts on why I shouldn't try?
 
Makes me wonder if attempting to prevent/correct this ourselves could lead to voiding a replacement under warranty…
 
Makes me wonder if attempting to prevent/correct this ourselves could lead to voiding a replacement under warranty…
If under warranty, definitely get the dealership involved to fix it. But if no longer covered, some members have been using flowable silicone to fill the cracks. It's certainly the route I'll take if it leaks outside the warranty.

Flowable silicone.JPG
 
If under warranty, definitely get the dealership involved to fix it. But if no longer covered, some members have been using flowable silicone to fill the cracks. It's certainly the route I'll take if it leaks outside the warranty.

View attachment 145440

Exactly. Mine is under warranty and I'll have my first appointment Friday morning about it. I have three of the above tubes arriving tomorrow. I will NOT plug the leak until the dealer agrees to the repair. (Gotta be ready for pushback and proof that it leaks.) Once that repair is agreed to, then I'll have to set up an appointment for the window replacement. I'll use a bit of the silicon to seal the window while I wait.

The other two are on-hand for when I am out of warranty and get a leak. From members who have used this product, I understand it takes a bit more than one tube to seal the whole rear window.

(I'll also remove my seats and carpet before the window removal appointment. I'd rather not have my seats/body scratched up, nor have my carpeting take some broken glass (if the window gets broken during removal). Not too hard to do, and it'll let me look at the under-carpet and see if there's any mold.)
 
Has anyone tried running some Gorilla tape or any other waterproof tape in the window channel? I'm wondering if that would help. I know water could still get in or under but maybe it would reduce the amount of water getting in as a temporary or "good enough" solution. In my head it seems like it might help, not sure.

I tried Permatex but still have the leak. To be fair though, I only used one tube and sounds like maybe you need more than one.
 
Has anyone tried running some Gorilla tape or any other waterproof tape in the window channel? I'm wondering if that would help. I know water could still get in or under but maybe it would reduce the amount of water getting in as a temporary or "good enough" solution. In my head it seems like it might help, not sure.

I tried Permatex but still have the leak. To be fair though, I only used one tube and sounds like maybe you need more than one.
I duct taped mine and water still gets in. Waiting on dealership to call me with my replacement glass
 
Has anyone tried running some Gorilla tape or any other waterproof tape in the window channel? I'm wondering if that would help. I know water could still get in or under but maybe it would reduce the amount of water getting in as a temporary or "good enough" solution. In my head it seems like it might help, not sure.

I tried Permatex but still have the leak. To be fair though, I only used one tube and sounds like maybe you need more than one.
Theoretically tape will seal it up. Doesn't need to be strong tape even, just water resistant. But you need to be careful when applying it and avoid getting any wrinkles in it. And you'd probably need to completely cover the circumference of the window. But then you're stuck with possibly having to clean the tape residue off after removing it. And it's definitely a temporary solution. Tape doesn't hold up well when exposed to environmental conditions. But if your goal is function over form it's worth a try until you can get the thing replaced, and won't potentially void any warranties.
 
For those of you who replaced the glass WITHOUT warranty, what was your price?
 
I have a new slider window on order, went direct to glass shop. $1,400
 
Theoretically tape will seal it up. Doesn't need to be strong tape even, just water resistant. But you need to be careful when applying it and avoid getting any wrinkles in it. And you'd probably need to completely cover the circumference of the window. But then you're stuck with possibly having to clean the tape residue off after removing it. And it's definitely a temporary solution. Tape doesn't hold up well when exposed to environmental conditions. But if your goal is function over form it's worth a try until you can get the thing replaced, and won't potentially void any warranties.
yea, I am just using black painters tape until my window comes in. It does the job although I replace it every week just to make sure it stays dry, takes 2 minutes. Make sure to completely tape around the brake light and across the top of the window and don't let any gaps.

1670616104455.png
 
I had a very minor leak that ran down the window on the passenger side. I have not had enough water to cause wet carpets or damaged headliner. My water appeared to come from the passenger side top corner of the glass. I used the flowable caulk and I have not had any issues since.

Due to the issues being seen on both sides of some windows, I will use the entire tube of flowable caulk and seal the entire top from driver side to passenger side. This should prevent future leaks on the other side for me.
 
I had a very minor leak that ran down the window on the passenger side. I have not had enough water to cause wet carpets or damaged headliner. My water appeared to come from the passenger side top corner of the glass. I used the flowable caulk and I have not had any issues since.

Due to the issues being seen on both sides of some windows, I will use the entire tube of flowable caulk and seal the entire top from driver side to passenger side. This should prevent future leaks on the other side for me.
I just went any got some more Permatex and cut a larger hole and got pretty good coverage. I'm going to let it sit for 24-48 hours and test it out. By looking at it, it seems there is no way water could get in once its dry.
 
A week ago, I took my truck through a touchless car wash because it's been too cold to do a hand wash. When I got home, I noticed a couple of drops of water that ran down from the upper left corner of the back window and they stopped just short of getting to the bottom. Yesterday I hand washed my truck and purposely sprayed the upper part of the rear window from a few inches away with the hose. No leak. I'm going to keep an eye on it, but if it only leaks when high pressure water hits it, I'll leave it alone. Otherwise, I might just add a little windshield and glass sealant where @kapinallinen2 found those small cracks.
 
Had my appointment yesterday. Yes, they found the leak, right where I told them.

(Dropped it off at 0800. Told I could pick it up at 1300. A bit of a pita for that. It should've just taken 10 minutes with me standing there. Shrug.)

I called this morning because I had yet to receive a promised writeup. I was told that the rear window unit will be in at the dealer on Thursday. That is an amazingly fast turn time for this. I have a sneaking suspicion that @RamCares and the open case had a LOT to do with this being expedited. Thank you.

Do to work and Christmas, I've got the appointment for the replacement to be done on the 28th.

I'll likely put a heavy silicone bead around the top of the new rear window once it's installed. Belts and suspenders... ;)
 
I added almost the entire tube of Permatex underneath the brake light and about half a foot past the slider on both sides. It was pretty thick, basically filled the entire channel. After my water test, no drip on the inside. That's the first time I've not had a leak. I'm going to run it through the car wash tomorrow. I'm pretty happy, the Permatex seems to be working.
 
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No leaks after the car wash! Permatex did the trick. Hopefully it lasts for a while. I don't plan on messing with replacing it since my ext. warranty doesn't cover leaks.
 
My swap is scheduled for December 28th.

I'm wondering about the cost of my dashcam mount ($25) and rear tint ($100?). I'll push Mopar to cover it. The damage is due to the failure of a window seal.

And, I'm going to take a hard look at the leather cover on my rear seat.

We'll see...
 
Another victim of the rear window leak. Don’t see any cracks in the frame. It was a slow stream passenger side. Way we found it was a baby blanket was under the rear seat soaked. It was raining crazy the day we noticed it. Headliner dry. It’s our only vehicle atm. So I’m dreading taken it to the dealer. Hoping just 3rd brake light leak.
 
So I dropped my truck off at the dealership this past Tuesday for the 2nd round of water leaks and headliner staining. They already replaced the rear window several months ago. I was told it was the 3rd brake light this time and that the new assemblies were on back order indefinitely. In the meantime, they claimed a new "foam kit" was available and recommended by the manufacturer. Picked the truck up Tuesday night and got to test it out Wednesday afternoon in the steady downpour we had. Immediately noticed new staining in a different location on the headliner and could see water actively running down the inside of the window frame, above the sliding window. It's now in for the 3rd round of water leak repairs in the last 6 months. I haven't even hit 30,000 miles yet.

It was slightly annoying to be told by the dealership that they didn't leak test the repair because it required 24 hours to cure and they only leak test on Mondays. Personally, I would think the job isn't complete until you can verify it worked.
 

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