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Price negotiated from MSRP

Just pulled the trigger on a 2500 2021 Laramie 4x4 Megacab - from Phillip Olson at Auburn Chrysler up near Seattle.

-12.8% off MSRP, -6.5% off Invoice - plus any incentives that are in effect at delivery.

I should mention that Aaron at Mark Dodge was very responsive as well. Phillip beat him by a couple hundred dollars and he's closer. Both are very transparent, and it was interesting to see that the MSRP and Invoice on the Configuration Preview sheets were identical between them, and this was pretty close to the invoice pricing I found on Car Connection.

Thanks again

Philip and Aaron continue to give us great deals. I highly recommend them.

Phillip Olson, General Sales Manager at Bud Clary in Washington State
Tell him Silent Bob from 5thGenRams Forum sent you.
Cell 360-434-2929 (text is great)
[email protected]

Aaron Ginsburgh, New Car Sales Manager at Mark Dodge in Louisiana
Tell him Silent Bob from 5thGenRams Forum sent you.
Cell 318-792-1220 (text is great)
[email protected]
 
Just picked up my new Ram after being out of the game for awhile.

New 2020 Laramie Crew 4X4 with 5'7" bed
MSRP $52,510
Sales Price $39,999
Dealer DOC fee of $398 (lowest you ever see around here is $249, most are higher)
Had a couple of extras (tint and PPF) that I said I wouldn't pay for.
Very straightforward and was in and out in 2hrs. The only extra rebate I had was the First Responder $500.
I'll take it! Loving the truck so far!
What specs did you get with the Laramie?
 
Hi guys, asking for further advice regarding negotiation on a new Limited build. In short, I posted a week or so ago that Aaron from the respected Louisiana dealer quoted me 6% below invoice. I went to my local dealer's "general manager" (who is the only one handling builds there) with a similar offer ($60,000), after any "fees", and this is what he said:

"I would be willing to sell you the truck for $61,500 before rebates, plus tax,title,list,etc.
There is a world wide chip shortage that is affecting all auto manufacturers and severely cutting down on vehicles being built. If we weren’t in the middle of a pandemic, factory shutdowns, etc I’d say we’d be a lot closer to your offer but during these times we simply won’t get there. "

He also said:

"On sold orders all rebates are sold order protected meaning if the rebates are higher at time of order versus when your truck arrives you get the better of the two....
Truck will take about 6-8 weeks to build baring any factory shutdowns,etc....
The only rebate available on the Limited Crew Cab is $1,500 unless you finance with Chrysler Capital and you can pick up another $500"

?'s:

1) First, Silent Bob, you rock - so many of your posts are so helpful to all purchasers. Questions about the incentives (part a) comes from this thread):

http://bit.ly/LowestCostRam :

a) Is it worth signing up for a Sams Club and/or FFA membership to try and get the $500 bonus cash? Are these a coupon I'll present at time of purchase, or a form I fill out to submit to those respective organizations?
b) What is this rebate/incentive of: “$750 - 2021 National Non-Prime Retail Bonus Cash 21CM1V” that I'm seeing on some dealers' websites?

2) Any tips on trying to get my most-local dealer lower than just 3~% off invoice? Should I reply to him with "Can't you throw in a $1000 dealer coupon, Steve, to get closer to my $60,000?"???
Of note, I did just send out emails this morning to about 6 other dealers within 1 hour of me, noting that I'm looking for their best deal. I mentioned that I can get 6% below invoice from a local dealer (albeit 2 hours away :rolleyes:; thanks to Silent Bob's note of the Bob Clary, WA deal).

3) If I buy with this "order protected" do I get current rebates PLUS any applicable rebates at time of delivery?

Thanks in advance!
 
Hi guys, asking for further advice regarding negotiation on a new Limited build. In short, I posted a week or so ago that Aaron from the respected Louisiana dealer quoted me 6% below invoice. I went to my local dealer's "general manager" (who is the only one handling builds there) with a similar offer ($60,000), after any "fees", and this is what he said:

"I would be willing to sell you the truck for $61,500 before rebates, plus tax,title,list,etc.
There is a world wide chip shortage that is affecting all auto manufacturers and severely cutting down on vehicles being built. If we weren’t in the middle of a pandemic, factory shutdowns, etc I’d say we’d be a lot closer to your offer but during these times we simply won’t get there. "

He also said:

"On sold orders all rebates are sold order protected meaning if the rebates are higher at time of order versus when your truck arrives you get the better of the two....
Truck will take about 6-8 weeks to build baring any factory shutdowns,etc....
The only rebate available on the Limited Crew Cab is $1,500 unless you finance with Chrysler Capital and you can pick up another $500"

?'s:

1) First, Silent Bob, you rock - so many of your posts are so helpful to all purchasers. Questions about the incentives (part a) comes from this thread):

http://bit.ly/LowestCostRam :

a) Is it worth signing up for a Sams Club and/or FFA membership to try and get the $500 bonus cash? Are these a coupon I'll present at time of purchase, or a form I fill out to submit to those respective organizations?
b) What is this rebate/incentive of: “$750 - 2021 National Non-Prime Retail Bonus Cash 21CM1V” that I'm seeing on some dealers' websites?

2) Any tips on trying to get my most-local dealer lower than just 3~% off invoice? Should I reply to him with "Can't you throw in a $1000 dealer coupon, Steve, to get closer to my $60,000?"???
Of note, I did just send out emails this morning to about 6 other dealers within 1 hour of me, noting that I'm looking for their best deal. I mentioned that I can get 6% below invoice from a local dealer (albeit 2 hours away :rolleyes:; thanks to Silent Bob's note of the Bob Clary, WA deal).

3) If I buy with this "order protected" do I get current rebates PLUS any applicable rebates at time of delivery?

Thanks in advance!

a) Is it worth signing up for a Sams Club and/or FFA membership to try and get the $500 bonus cash? Are these a coupon I'll present at time of purchase, or a form I fill out to submit to those respective organizations?

Sams Club seems to be a $500 offer now. You should be able to generate the same email certificate from Allstate LINK or American Express LINK . Nothing to join and you don't need to have a relationship with either.

FFA membership seems to require you be enrolled in an agriculture course at your school or be an alumni.

b) What is this rebate/incentive of: “$750 - 2021 National Non-Prime Retail Bonus Cash 21CM1V” that I'm seeing on some dealers' websites?

I would call FCA Incentives to see what that stacks with.

2) Any tips on trying to get my most-local dealer lower than just 3~% off invoice? Should I reply to him with "Can't you throw in a $1000 dealer coupon, Steve, to get closer to my $60,000?"???
Of note, I did just send out emails this morning to about 6 other dealers within 1 hour of me, noting that I'm looking for their best deal. I mentioned that I can get 6% below invoice from a local dealer (albeit 2 hours away :rolleyes:; thanks to Silent Bob's note of the Bob Clary, WA deal).


Some dealers just have no interest in giving out great deals. They have a minimum amount of profit they want to make on each vehicle and do not give thought to volume. If your only two hours away from Phillip Olson at Bud Clary it's a no brainer. Get a good price from him, and if your local will not match, make the deal with Phillip. He is easy to work with, everything can be done with email or phone and you will only need to make the drive once. He will actually appreciate your business instead of grumble about your price.

3) If I buy with this "order protected" do I get current rebates PLUS any applicable rebates at time of delivery?

One or the other.
 
Last edited:
For those who special ordered a truck, how much did you have to put down, and was it refundable?

Thanks,
Chuck
I ordered a Longhorn Limited from Aaron Ginsburgh at Mark Dodge in Louisiana. Now awaiting delivery. Put down $500 on a credit card. Didn't ask whether or not it is refundable but I would assume not.
 
Hi guys, asking for further advice regarding negotiation on a new Limited build. In short, I posted a week or so ago that Aaron from the respected Louisiana dealer quoted me 6% below invoice. I went to my local dealer's "general manager" (who is the only one handling builds there) with a similar offer ($60,000), after any "fees", and this is what he said:

"I would be willing to sell you the truck for $61,500 before rebates, plus tax,title,list,etc.
There is a world wide chip shortage that is affecting all auto manufacturers and severely cutting down on vehicles being built. If we weren’t in the middle of a pandemic, factory shutdowns, etc I’d say we’d be a lot closer to your offer but during these times we simply won’t get there. "

He also said:

"On sold orders all rebates are sold order protected meaning if the rebates are higher at time of order versus when your truck arrives you get the better of the two....
Truck will take about 6-8 weeks to build baring any factory shutdowns,etc....
The only rebate available on the Limited Crew Cab is $1,500 unless you finance with Chrysler Capital and you can pick up another $500"

?'s:

1) First, Silent Bob, you rock - so many of your posts are so helpful to all purchasers. Questions about the incentives (part a) comes from this thread):

http://bit.ly/LowestCostRam :

a) Is it worth signing up for a Sams Club and/or FFA membership to try and get the $500 bonus cash? Are these a coupon I'll present at time of purchase, or a form I fill out to submit to those respective organizations?
b) What is this rebate/incentive of: “$750 - 2021 National Non-Prime Retail Bonus Cash 21CM1V” that I'm seeing on some dealers' websites?

2) Any tips on trying to get my most-local dealer lower than just 3~% off invoice? Should I reply to him with "Can't you throw in a $1000 dealer coupon, Steve, to get closer to my $60,000?"???
Of note, I did just send out emails this morning to about 6 other dealers within 1 hour of me, noting that I'm looking for their best deal. I mentioned that I can get 6% below invoice from a local dealer (albeit 2 hours away :rolleyes:; thanks to Silent Bob's note of the Bob Clary, WA deal).

3) If I buy with this "order protected" do I get current rebates PLUS any applicable rebates at time of delivery?

Thanks in advance!

IIRC, the Costco/Sam's Club discounts were $1000/500 but dealers took their discounts away when using either. What dealers do have that they don't tell you about are Ram Coupons. The dealer I bought from used 6 $500 coupons to meet my price and make the deal happen. Ask them about those coupons and see how many they are willing to use
 
Costco or sam is most expensive way to purchase a vehicle . few ers ago want to by a car that was at Costco since it was specific color no where to found in 100 miles radius. Costco deal was 3300 more than the dealer want have to wait for a week till car got back on dealer lot.
 
Ha ha. After you do the deal, send them a copy of the paperwork from Mark Dodge...
You seriously wanna ruin a good thing? First rule of fight club is there is no fight club. Like the superb Dmx once said. "If you flashing it, you must not want it" be happy with your deal and move on.
 
Newbie here. I submitted a build quote for a Laramie to Aaron Ginsburgh at Mark Dodge. Here is his quote:

MSRP $61015

Sale Price $52896 plus $219 (doc/temp tag/notary) plus any applicable rebates, tax, title and licensing.

Thought that was quite reasonable. I also sent my build to some local dealers to quote, and one responded back that
"We are going to kindly pass on even trying to earn your business. If you get 1% below invoice and are looking for 5-8% off from the dealership before all the rebates, that just isn't realistic and isn't worth me even trying to compete. True Chrysler employees get 3% below invoice plus rebates, so thinking you can get even much better than that isn't something we can do".

Haven't heard back from the other local dealers. Maybe nobody local can compete with the high volume dealers listed on this site.
I received a quote from one of my local dealers, and they were $1000 more than Aaron Ginsburgh's quote. But it would basically be a wash, due to the cost to have it shipped up to me. Based on the response I got from the first guy, I didn't have any confidence in being able to get a fair price locally. Waiting on one more dealer to give a quote.
 
My current truck is a red Rebel. I really wanted white or silver, but red was my 3rd choice. I received a buyer's order from Mark Dodge and asked my local dealer that had a white one if they could come close. They couldn't. They told me the buyer's order I received would not be honored once I went to get the truck and that it was just a game Mark Dodge was playing.

Well, I bought from Mark Dodge, there was never a challenge on the buyer's order and I was done with the entire process in less than 1 hour. I don't think you'll get a better price or better sales support than at Mark Dodge.

SilentBob, stop telling everyone to say you sent them! I want Mark Dodge to remember me, too!!! :) I have never had such an easy purchase process, so when my wife is ready for her Hellcat, I'm going only to them.
 
I received a quote from one of my local dealers, and they were $1000 more than Aaron Ginsburgh's quote. But it would basically be a wash, due to the cost to have it shipped up to me. Based on the response I got from the first guy, I didn't have any confidence in being able to get a fair price locally. Waiting on one more dealer to give a quote.

IMO I would pay $750-1000 more for a local order than going way out of my way to get a truck. That is a reasonable markup for the convenience. I flew from FL to VA twice, and realistically the actual trip cost was $400-500 or so plus 2 days of my time.

For my last two purchases though, the difference was easily $2500+. And yes the local guys said "we can't do it, that price is impossible" "you won't fly up the coast" "what are you going to do, drive two days to save $2000?" and I was happy to stick it to them.
 
Hi guys, asking for further advice regarding negotiation on a new Limited build. In short, I posted a week or so ago that Aaron from the respected Louisiana dealer quoted me 6% below invoice. I went to my local dealer's "general manager" (who is the only one handling builds there) with a similar offer ($60,000), after any "fees", and this is what he said:

"I would be willing to sell you the truck for $61,500 before rebates, plus tax,title,list,etc.
There is a world wide chip shortage that is affecting all auto manufacturers and severely cutting down on vehicles being built. If we weren’t in the middle of a pandemic, factory shutdowns, etc I’d say we’d be a lot closer to your offer but during these times we simply won’t get there. "

He also said:

"On sold orders all rebates are sold order protected meaning if the rebates are higher at time of order versus when your truck arrives you get the better of the two....
Truck will take about 6-8 weeks to build baring any factory shutdowns,etc....
The only rebate available on the Limited Crew Cab is $1,500 unless you finance with Chrysler Capital and you can pick up another $500"

?'s:

1) First, Silent Bob, you rock - so many of your posts are so helpful to all purchasers. Questions about the incentives (part a) comes from this thread):

http://bit.ly/LowestCostRam :

a) Is it worth signing up for a Sams Club and/or FFA membership to try and get the $500 bonus cash? Are these a coupon I'll present at time of purchase, or a form I fill out to submit to those respective organizations?
b) What is this rebate/incentive of: “$750 - 2021 National Non-Prime Retail Bonus Cash 21CM1V” that I'm seeing on some dealers' websites?

2) Any tips on trying to get my most-local dealer lower than just 3~% off invoice? Should I reply to him with "Can't you throw in a $1000 dealer coupon, Steve, to get closer to my $60,000?"???
Of note, I did just send out emails this morning to about 6 other dealers within 1 hour of me, noting that I'm looking for their best deal. I mentioned that I can get 6% below invoice from a local dealer (albeit 2 hours away :rolleyes:; thanks to Silent Bob's note of the Bob Clary, WA deal).

3) If I buy with this "order protected" do I get current rebates PLUS any applicable rebates at time of delivery?

Thanks in advance!
If you’re that close to Bud Clary I would do that. I’m driving from Seattle back to San Diego. Phillip Olson has been awesome. Ordered last night, got the VON # this morning, and when appropriate he’ll shop me with 2-3 lenders he thinks can match or beat my credit union deal back in CA.
If it were a $1k difference I would have maybe stayed local / although I think these high volume guys have the process wired.
Best of luck
 
The dealer that couldn't match the Mark Dodge price was off by $1500. Then add in the $899 non-negotiable dealer fee, and that's $2400. I was planning on flying in to get the truck but found it so much easier to just have it shipped home. The difference in the shipping versus me getting it was $400, but it didn't cost me 8 hours of driving.
 
Philip and Aaron continue to give us great deals. I highly recommend them.

Phillip Olson, General Sales Manager at Bud Clary in Washington State
Tell him Silent Bob from 5thGenRams Forum sent you.
Cell 360-434-2929 (text is great)
[email protected]

Aaron Ginsburgh, New Car Sales Manager at Mark Dodge in Louisiana
Tell him Silent Bob from 5thGenRams Forum sent you.
Cell 318-792-1220 (text is great)
[email protected]
Do you guys have any specific contacts at Koons in Va or Criswell in MD?
 
IMO I would pay $750-1000 more for a local order than going way out of my way to get a truck. That is a reasonable markup for the convenience. I flew from FL to VA twice, and realistically the actual trip cost was $400-500 or so plus 2 days of my time.

For my last two purchases though, the difference was easily $2500+. And yes the local guys said "we can't do it, that price is impossible" "you won't fly up the coast" "what are you going to do, drive two days to save $2000?" and I was happy to stick it to them.
When I bought my outback, I went to MD to get it. MSRP was 38,800. I paid 32,500. Closest dealer was around 35000, plus his doc fee was 500 more. I got the, "you're going to drive to MD to save 2500 bucks on a 35,000.00 car?" (I live in eastern VA, took me 3.5 hours 1 way - I left at 5AM, was home by lunch).
My response to him " I don't make 2500.00 a day. Do you?" Screw all this noise of "we can't."

I'll say this - I went to my local dealer. I live pretty rural. They have like, literally 8 rams on the lot. Doc fee is 299. I told him I was going to shop but I'd give anyone a chance, but that 2K was a lot of money to me, let alone 10K. He said "we all pay the same price for these trucks (I dont think thats true for volume dealers) so it's not really possible for them to beat us"

We will see, I guess.
 

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